| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 957.1 | Golden shower | GOLF::WILSON | | Mon Mar 30 1992 12:03 | 10 |
| Rick,
To increase water pressure, how about installing some type of
auxiliary pump in the line? I was going to suggest a bilge pump,
but the "intake" side is usually just a screen, where you need
standard hose connections on both sides of the pump. Perhaps
you could find a pump that has them. A macerator pump maybe?
Just don't hook it up the wrong "supply" source! 8^)
Rick
|
| 957.2 | Check Marine catalogs | MR4DEC::DCADMUS | happiness is a bigger boat | Mon Mar 30 1992 16:34 | 33 |
|
MOst of the marine catalogs carry pumps suitable for your purpose.
From Boat/US (for pricing)
Atwood 3GPM pot
able water pump 3 GPM @ 8' Head (about 4 PSI)
THsi is low pressure, butPSI will be added to the suction pressure
12 VDC
Not submersible
For 3/8" Id hose
$22.95
JABSCO PAR_MATE
2.5GPM@40 PSI
Cuts in at 28 PSI, shuts off @ 40 PSI
1/2" HOSE connections
12VDC $59.95
JABSCO "WATER PUPPY"
6.3 GPM
Garden Hose and 1/2" NPT connections
$84.95
Plus lots more!
|
| 957.3 | Problems,concerns and comments | COMET::KLEINM | NOTHING IS TOO EXTREME | Mon Mar 30 1992 18:46 | 19 |
| Go with the Water Puppy after the mixing tank,you'll be impressed
with the pressure. Also it will help to draw the hot water from the
engine block.
One problem I encountered was an airlock situation when drawing
water into the system when first putting the boat in the water after
pulling all the plugs. I almost burned my impellor up before noticing
that no water was being taken into the system. After closing the
shower valves,the water took off and went through like it was
suppose to. I also seemed to have to run my boat across the lake once
with the valves on before the tank would fill up and any pressure
would develop. It also seemed to take a little while for the air
bubbles to escape before any real pressure would develop.
My shower was home made but copied from the real ones?? Why my system
has so many idiosyncrycies (sp?) I don't know?
matt
|
| 957.4 | Shower progress report | KAHALA::SUTER | Never too Hot! | Tue Mar 31 1992 15:55 | 46 |
|
I picked up a pump at Bliss last night. It's a Shure (I think),
it provides good flow from the "test bucket" and features an on-demand
switch, which is what really sold me. The integrated pump switch
detects any drop in pressure in the output line and turns the pump
on.
All I have to do is wire the pump with a permanent power switch
on the dash and with that switch in the ON position, just opening the
valve switch located on the shower head will bring the pump on. Pretty
neat, huh?
Current problems:
Pump placement:
---------------
I had planned to mount the pump in the engine compartment
but there is just no place to do this, allow the pump to
work correctly and keep the hoses fairly simple.
That gives me 2 choices:
1) Under the rear seat, starboard side.
Pros: - Almost completely away from the "elements"
- Completely away from anything explosive
Cons: - Little or no ventilation for motor cooling
- Slightly more complicated hoses
2) Gas tank compartment behind seat mentioned above.
Pros: - Simple hose configuration
- Good ventilation
- Good "element" protection
Cons: - Boom!
The unit is "ignition protected", but does that mean that
I can safely mount it only 12 inches from the gas tank?
Exhaust manifold cooling
------------------------
Is it possible that I will create cooling problem for the
exhaust manifold which I am robbing the hot water from?
Matt?
Thanks,
Rick
|
| 957.5 | Boats, gasoline, electricity - pick any two. | ULTRA::BURGESS | The best DOS is DOS_EQUIS | Tue Mar 31 1992 16:16 | 73 |
| re <<< Note 957.4 by KAHALA::SUTER "Never too Hot!" >>>
> -< Shower progress report >-
> I picked up a pump at Bliss last night. It's a Shure (I think),
I know their microphones are good (-:
> it provides good flow from the "test bucket" and features an on-demand
> switch, which is what really sold me. The integrated pump switch
> detects any drop in pressure in the output line and turns the pump
> on.
Nice, as long as you have another cut out somewhere.
> All I have to do is wire the pump with a permanent power switch
> on the dash and with that switch in the ON position, just opening the
> valve switch located on the shower head will bring the pump on. Pretty
> neat, huh?
> 1) Under the rear seat, starboard side.
> Pros: - Almost completely away from the "elements"
> - Completely away from anything explosive
> Cons: - Little or no ventilation for motor cooling
I wouldn't worry about it, the thing is probably only going to
run for 1/2 minute every 10-15 minutes, you'll use it less and less as
temperatures get higher and higher (here comes summer).
> - Slightly more complicated hoses
> 2) Gas tank compartment behind seat mentioned above.
> Pros: - Simple hose configuration
> - Good ventilation
> - Good "element" protection
> Cons: - Boom!
> The unit is "ignition protected", but does that mean that
> I can safely mount it only 12 inches from the gas tank?
Ummm, I would, but that doesn't mean that I'd recommend that
anyone else should - - liability issue, etc. Your gas tank is
vented to "way out there" but I still can't recommend that you do
this.
> Exhaust manifold cooling
> ------------------------
> Is it possible that I will create cooling problem for the
> exhaust manifold which I am robbing the hot water from?
I don't see how, unless you were planning to run it while the
engine needs a lot of cooling. Typical use a) fill the gloves,
booties, wetsuit with warm water. b) slither off the platform into
the filthy freezing river c) boat idles away for 60ft., maybe a
passenger takes a warm foot shower at the same time. d) "Hit IT !"
but hopefully nobody is messing with the shower spigot at this point ?
I don't think the manifold needs a whole heckuva lot of gallons per
minute at idle speed... ??
I suppose there is a slight risk that the hose could fall overboard
and drag behind the boat, the valve could get sucked open and the
switch would then turn the pump on, then you'd be diverting a lot of
water from a manifold at a time when it is most needed, an "above idle
speed cutout switch" would solve that one. This thought is brought to
you by the FearMongers' Shop in the Dales, serving your phobia needs
since before you knew you had any.
> Thanks,
> Rick
Reg
|
| 957.6 | taking a shower | COMET::KLEINM | NOTHING IS TOO EXTREME | Tue Mar 31 1992 17:54 | 25 |
| Rick,
I agree with the previous note,you'll only be using the shower when the
boat is idleing,I never seen my temp gauge go up when I used the
shower.
could you place the mixing tank and the punp between the middle
stringers just behind the tranny? that is where mine is and the only
two problems I had was:
Padding. I wrapped it with eggcrate material and duct
tape.
securing it. I used those zip ties and wrapped them
around the mixing tank and the blower pipe.
Just make sure you place the valves up where they can be accessed
easily./
sounds like you got a great pump,just turn on the valve at the head
and the pump kicks in...that's awesome.
Matt
|
| 957.7 | kinda common | PIPPER::BORZUMATO | | Wed Apr 01 1992 09:11 | 11 |
|
Actually this pump is very common. The name of the Pump is
Sure-Flo.
There's a pressure sensitive switch in the front, which senses
pressure drop, which turns on the pump. On boats with
fresh water systems this is a common item.
Its a good unit. Should deliver about 2.5-3.5 gals a min.
JIm
|
| 957.8 | Parts for a Boat Shower | KAHALA::SUTER | Never too Hot! | Wed Sep 30 1992 10:17 | 44 |
|
In case any other "late season" skiers are thinking of installing a
shower, here are the specifics of the system I placed in the Nautique.
BTW: The shower really is a pleasure when climbing out of the cold
water or for warming up those cold wet gloves, wetsuits and booties.
(see earlier replies which describe the plumbing)
Parts:
Cheap 1) 2 plastic T connections to tap into exisiting engine
cooling hoses. (1 or 1.5? inch)
Cheap 2) 1-2 feet of hose for #1.
~30.00 3) Mixing valve, hardware store type, 2 inputs, 1 output,
garden hose connections, two controls.
(I installed this valve upon the advice of another
skier with such a system, but have not actually
used it. It's has remained full hot/no cold all
spring,summer and fall)
Unsure 4) 2 Washing machine hoses, 1 from mixing valve to
strainer, 1 from strainer to pump.
Cheap 5) 1 small inline water strainer, (keeps crap out of the
pump)
~72.00 6) ShurFlo model 8050-204-033, 1.6 gpm, 30 psi, 12v
automatic multi-fixture DEMAND pump.
5-25.00 7) Shower head from plumbing supply place. The trick here
is to buy one that SHUTS OFF COMPLETELY. Because
otherwise the pump will run all the time. Many
shower heads have shutoffs, but are designed to
drip a little.
Enjoy your shower! I'm enjoying mine as the chillier weather
settles in on New England.
Rick
|
| 957.9 | WHo said " Never too hot" ?? | CSLALL::JEGREEN | Team Advil Barefoot Company | Mon Oct 05 1992 09:28 | 11 |
| I put a hot shower in my boat over the weekend. I picked up the
Shur-flo pump at Bliss for $56, and some assorted connectors and hose
at Home Depot for $18. The hardest part so far has been trying to get
all the 'right' plumbing to connect/reduce/match. I didn't go with a
mixing valve as Rick said he didn't use his. It became obvious that my
engine need one. The shower water is about 130-140 degrees. Ouch! Aside
from that, straight forward installation, took maybe 4 hours.
Too bad I'm not gonna have the time to use it the next few weeks.
~jeff
|
| 957.10 | Never too hot! | KAHALA::SUTER | Never too Hot! | Mon Feb 22 1993 13:27 | 14 |
|
After speaking with Craig at New England Correct Craft,
apparently I can get warmer water from my '87 PCM 351 without
too much trouble. He says there is a plumbing-type plug in the
intake manifold that won't mind giving up some water that's warmer
than the water I'm currently getting from the hose that connects
the thermostat housing to the starboard exhaust manifold.
I can't confirm or deny this info right now as my boat is
as NECC right now. I'll keep you posted when I have a chance
to check....
Rick
|
| 957.11 | Where are you tapped-in now? | SALEM::NORCROSS_W | | Mon Feb 22 1993 13:53 | 8 |
| Rick, are you getting hot water at all from that hose? On my boat,
that hose would be cold water coming right from the water pump. When
the thermostat is clsoed during warm-up, the flow is diverted into the
exhaust manifold. Maybe I don't understand exactly where you tied in.
Certainly if you can tap off the intake manifold, you should be getting
water there as hot as your temp gauge reads. That could be TOO hot and
you'll need to mix in cold water from somewhere.
Wayne
|
| 957.12 | Hot warm, August October? | KAHALA::SUTER | Never too Hot! | Mon Feb 22 1993 15:20 | 15 |
|
Wayne,
I get water which is warm enough to do the trick, but could
stand to be a tad warmer. I tapped into the hose that runs from
the pump to the thermostat for cold water and thermostat to
exhaust hose for hot(warm). I don't know if I only get cold before the
motor is warmed up or not cuz we're all too smart to stick our
body parts under the shower before the motor's warm... :-) I think
you may have hit upon why my "hot" source ain't too hot!
I already have the mixing valve in the system so moving the "warm"
supply to "hot" should be a snap...
Rick
|
| 957.13 | Moved from the exhaust hose to the intake manifold | KAHALA::SUTER | Never too Hot! | Fri Apr 30 1993 12:12 | 10 |
|
Opps, almost forgot to mention that I moved my hot water source.....
When I picked up the boat at NECC, Craig told me to get "hotter"
water I needed to tap the source on the intake manifold. Sure
enough, I removed a small plug in the manifold and replaced it
with a connector for a hose and now I get "motor-temp" water and
have to actually use my mixing valve.
Rick
|