T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
---|
873.1 | Electrical | DONVAN::DECAROLIS | Slalom Fever! | Fri Jul 12 1991 13:32 | 5 |
| Those symptoms are the same I had with my last
boat. Turned out to be the stater assembly.
Jeanne
|
873.2 | Check for spark and gas | VICKI::DODIER | Food for thought makes me hungry | Fri Jul 12 1991 13:33 | 11 |
| The only ideas that come to mind are check for the basics. After it
happens pull the plug and check for spark. If your getting spark then
it's not any kind of overtemp causing the problem. If you're not it
could be the coil/coils or possibly some type of overtemp switch.
Next check to see if the enging is getting any gas. Possiblly a vacuum
is developing in the gas tank whish isn't allowing the motor to get any
gas. Unscrew the gas cap and see if it sucks air after it happens.
RAY
|
873.3 | check the water pump | VSSCAD::BOURGEOIS | | Mon Jul 15 1991 07:10 | 5 |
| You don't say if it overheating or not.
If it is overheating it might be the water pump.
When the motor dies can you turn the flywheel?
I would be incline to check the water pump.
|
873.4 | "Runaway Valve?" | SPCTRM::BRENNAN | | Mon Jul 15 1991 17:22 | 37 |
| John,
I agree with Ray that you should first check for spark once the
engine has quit. However I don't think the ignition system (coils,
points, condensors) is the culprit because the engine runs fine
for a decent amount of time (1/2 to 45 minutes.)
If you are getting NO SPARK after it dies it may be the "runaway
valve". The idea behind the runaway valve is that if your engine
loses its prop or load the valve will shut down the engine by removing
spark to the plugs - this would prevent the engine from going into
super high RPM's and destroying everything before you could manually
shut her down.
This valve is wired into the "kill switch" or ignition switch and
would work just like you turned the motor off.
The runaway valve is a circular metal disk mounted on a plastic base,
attached somehwere on the engine. In the center of the disk are
two black wires, on the outer edge of the disk are two white wires.
If you remove all the wires off the valve, prevent them from touching
or grounding, the engine will run under normal working conditions.
If you do this after she dies, and she starts back up, it's your
runaway valve. I can't imagine it's an expensive part to replace.
An "old salt" from the Plymouth area once told me that these things were
notorious for shutting down Evinrudes.
I've done a lot of work to 60's Evinrudes (same as Johnson) and
feel strongly that this may be the problem, running the engine wide
open for 1/2 hour to 45 minutes leads me in this direction.
My explanation may not be 100% correct but the general idea is there.
Thats my best GUESS. Call or write if more info would be helpful.
Tom
|
873.5 | internal fuel line problem | GLITTR::JOHNHC | | Tue Jul 27 1993 11:21 | 25 |
| I've got an early 1970's Johnson 9.9 hp Seahorse (longshaft) on the
back of my sailboat. It was recently refurbished by a marina down in
Alabama. It worked beautifully the first couple times it was needed.
Now it won't start. It doesn't matter whether I use the electric
ignition or the cord. It turns over, but it just doesn't fire. I
discovered much to my dismay that when I pumped the fuel line bulb, gas
came out of the back of the engine cover. I was exxoning the cove!
(OUCH!!!)
So, the motor has been sitting on the back unused for the last two
weeks. I have to wait for one of those rare windy moments in the cove
before I can get the boat out onto open water.
It seems to me that the fuel line is clogged inside the engine. No fuel
is reaching the internals, which explains the rather painful sound the
motor made when it turned over.
Can anybody suggest a way to clean/clear a fuel line in one of these
beasts? It seems to me it ought to be a fairly simple operation. Maybe
there's a reply somewhere in this conference that covers this problem?
Thanks.
John H-C
|
873.6 | Where | SALEM::GILMAN | | Tue Jul 27 1993 12:55 | 5 |
| John, where was the gas escaping from under the cover?
This sounds like an easy fix to me. If I could see the engine I could
help you with it.
Jeff
|
873.7 | You gotta look and see where the fuel is leaking | SOLVIT::CHACE | My favorite season is getting nearer! | Tue Jul 27 1993 13:36 | 7 |
|
Itr sounds to me like you have a ruptured fuel line or maybe it has
even fallen right off! It should be easy to trace. The first thing to
do is look at it when you squeeze the bulb and see where it is leaking
fuel from. Then take it from there.
Kenny
|
873.8 | Guess I'll have to wait and see. | GLITTR::JOHNHC | | Tue Jul 27 1993 14:00 | 16 |
| The fuel leaks out of the bottom rear of the engine cover. I thought
about squeezing the bulb and watching it leak, but my scruples were
already suffering remorse overload from the discovery that I was
exxoning the cove. There is a slight logistical problem, too, in that
the fuel tank is inside the cockpit under a bench seat, and you can't
see the outboard unless you lean out over the transom. My arms just
aren't long enough to accomplish that little feat.
I guess what I'll do is pull the motor and the fuel tank out as soon as
the lake gets some rain and the water level rises another 10 inches.
(It's too shallow at the end of the dock to support the boat right
now.)
Thanks for the feedback.
John H-C
|
873.9 | Fuel | SALEM::GILMAN | | Tue Jul 27 1993 15:42 | 4 |
| Without knowing where the fuel is coming from (EXACTLY what is leaking)
suggests are difficult.
Jeff
|
873.10 | Bad O ring can spoil you whole day (lake) | ASDS::BURGESS | Waiting for ZEUS to come | Wed Jul 28 1993 17:53 | 10 |
|
I'd check the quick connect/disconnect hose "AT THE MOTOR END"
Make sure the fittings are clean and, to quote NASA engineers,
"are those O rings gonna hold up OK ?"
Reg
|