Conference vicki::boats

Dave,

Sounds like a stretched cable rather than a problem with the relay. The relay 
would effect going INTO gear, rather than comming out.

Mine actualy broke!!! What a mess that was getting into the dock.

Don

    I would agree with .1, it could be the cable stretched or
    is just of adjustment.  My boat had a problem shifting into
    neutral from forward earlier this season (It's an outboard,
    and it's an OMC, but other than that they're about the same,
    right?).
    
    When you want to go to neutral, try going a bit beyond
    neutral and into the opposite gear.  If you find neutral
    then the cable is binding or is out of adjustment.  With 
    mine if I just went a bit into reverse it would shift from 
    forward to neutral.  A quick cable adjustment fixed it 
    right up.
    
    Rick

    Dear Dave,

    I have been through this on a couple of previous Merc V8 I/Os.   This
    is a common spring time problem as cables and associated mechanisms
    stiffen up during winter due to non-use.  I have heard it recommended
    to, periodically during winter lay-up, move the shifted handle and
    steering well back and forth so as to keep the cables loose.

    Concerning:

    "Two others suggested a switch run by a cam on the shift mechanism
    which they tell me is intended to cut the ignition momentarily as you
    shift to neutral." 

    I believe that this switch is actually called the shift interrupter
    switch.  About this switch assembly, < A word of caution >  The
    adjustment on this switch and associated cable assemblies are very
    tricky.  If you want to do these adjustments you should get a book
    describing the procedures.  The best way to do the final adjustments is
    with the boat in the water, it never works the same on land.

    
    You say that  

    "The shift cable seems very free of friction so I don't think that 
    is the problem." 

    Actually there are 2 cables.  The one that leads from the helm shifted
    to the plate where the shift interrupter switch is mounted on back of
    the motor and the cable from this assembly back into the outdrive. 
    Both these cables must be checked.  The one that goes back into the
    outdrive is susceptible to ware as it is flexed whenever the outdrive is
    raised/lowered or turned (by the steering). On one of my pervious boats
    this "outdrive shift cable" was practically worn to shreds.

    One last thing: make sure that everything is lubricated, including the
    helm shifted and interrupter cam assembly.  

    Good luck,

    Matt
    

    
    I had the same problem and had a mechanic look at it and he made an
    adjustment.  Although this helped, it didn't fully take care of the
    problem.  He informed me to lube the cable up good every couple of
    weeks with white lube and suggested to replace the cable in the
    off season.  I've noticed that lubing does help.  Good luck.
    
    mike
    

    Thanks for the advice and the quick response!!  Next trip to the lake,
    I'll take along the shop manual and look at the cable adjustments.  
    
    Regards,
    
    Soon to be "Shifty Dave" :^)
                               

    It might also be pointed out that on the outdrive there is a lever that
    actually does the shifting. It is operated by a cable from the engine
    compartment that hooks up to the afore mentioned shift interrupt
    switch. If the bearings with which this lever is supported become worn
    or corroded you will experience problems shifting. It will usually
    stall. I have found that reverse is usually first to experience
    problems.

	I couldn't find a general Merc I/O note, maybe this is as good 
a place as any to ask about a different kind of  "shifting"  problem.
This is the problem of the whole boat shifting downwards;  as in  
"SINKING" ?   We believe it took on many gallons of water overnight, 
since there is no reason to believe the hull is cracked we're 
suspecting that the lake has somehow siphoned in through the I/O unit. 
Any suggestions as to where/which hose we should be looking at ???

	Reg

    Check the exhaust and drive-shaft bellows.  I believe the
    recommended replacement interval is 1-2 years.  The bellows
    attach to flanges on the outside of the transom plate.  With
    the boat in the water, you can often see water coming in
    around the drive shaft when the drive shaft bellows have
    ripped.

    If it turns out that's that is what you need, there are
    after-market bellows available at about 60% of MerCruiser's
    price.  Also, if you buy the MerCruiser hinge pin removal
    tool (< $10) it makes the job much easier.

    	- Lee

    re .7 & .8
    
     I`d vote for the bellows also. I had one sink 3 years ago.....I`m
    sorry to say. I had alway taken pride in keeping everything maintained, 
    But this was my first I/O and as they say live and learn....8^(....
    
     Real sorry to hear about this...
    
    
    
    				jeff b. 
    
     Your boat *is* insured Right!!!!!!!!

	Thanks for the replies, both on and off line.

	It isn't mine, its a friend's  Stink-Ray  ooops,  "ing-Ray" 
is what it says on the port side.

	Anyway, it had only sank at the dock, so there isn't a 
question of insurance.  He dragged it out yesterday, drained it and 
put it back, checked every hour or two and nothing much came in.  We 
used it to pull kids on tubes last night, probably for an hour, and it 
only pumped the usual amount of water you get from 4 wet kids climbing 
in and out.  Maybe its gone away, maybe his plug wasn't as tight as he 
thought it was, maybe there's something he doesn't want to tell me (-:

	Reg

    Moved by moderator...  
    (See also notes 470 and 876)
    
================================================================================
Note 904.0               SHIFT PROBLEM - '73 MERCRUISER               No replies
MPGS::LUPIEN                                         15 lines   9-SEP-1991 13:26
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    My Dad just bought an older boat (I believe it's a Silverline with
    a Mercruiser I/O - Chevy 140 hp mercruiser I).
    
    We put it in the water and it wouldn't go into reverse until we
    pulled on the linkage behind the motor section.  
    
    Now you can adjust the linkage so that it will go into reverse but
    it won't go into forward - if you re-adjust it goes into forward
    but won't go into reverse.....
    
    Any ideas how to fix this ourselves?
    
    Thanks,
    Sandy
    

    I had the same problem with '73 mercs.  the problem was in the shift
    cable.  It could be adjusted for Forward or Reverse, not both.
    
    Replaced the cable and all is well.

    I believe there are 2 cables - do we need to replace them both?
    
    Thank you very much for the response.  I called my Dad and he's all
    excited again about fixing the boat.
    

    
    
    RE: .13
    
    The two cables are for throttle and shifting.  Unless there are also
    throttle problems, you should only need to replace the shift cable.
    
    Rick

��                       <<< Note 847.14 by GOLF::WILSON >>>
��                             -< Shift cable only >-
��    The two cables are for throttle and shifting.  Unless there are also
��    throttle problems, you should only need to replace the shift cable.

    There are actually three cables.  1) the throttle cable from
    the helm to the carburator;  2) the shift cable from the helm
    to the shift-interruptor;  3) the cable from the
    shift-interruptor to the outdrive.

    You might need a new cable, but it could also be the
    adjustments of cables #2 and #3.   If one needs to be
    replaced, it will probably be the one to the outdrive.
    Not too difficult, but not a job for the meek.
    Step 1) remove outdrive...

    I'll try an remember to look up the adjustment procedure in
    the factory manual...

    	- Lee (for those who miss my first name)

    I checked out the adjustment procedure.  It's a bit long to
    type in, but it looks pretty much like common sense.  Adjust
    the cable to the outdrive first.  One thing to check when you
    shift the outdrive is that it's fully in gear.  You can tell
    by turning the propellor (with the engine off unless you have
    lots of disability insurance).  When the clutch dog engages,
    the shift cable may move a bit more.

    One other thing that's obscure -- after you adjust the
    cables, you may need to adjust the reverse lock valve.
    It keeps the drive locked down when reverse is engaged,
    so the drive doesn't pop up out of the water from the
    reverse thrust.

    I don't know if this is actually required, but it's what the book
    says...

    	- Lee

    Thank-you all for your help.  We're planning on working on the boat
    Thursday nite.  I printed out tons of material from the files for
    my Dad to read and hopefully it will help him understand the problem.
    
    We've been testing different adjustments by turning the propellor
    alredy (and yes with the engine off...) but nothing worked yet - Dad
    is out cable hunting today.  I'll let you know how we make out!
    
    Thanks again..... The sooner we get it fixed - the sooner we get to
    play!  The boat will be heading to Florida for the winter next month..
    (Wish I could go with it!!)
    
    Thanks again,
    
    Regards,
    
    
    Sandy
    

    I just bought a project and have a question regarding hints on removal
    of the outdrive from a 1975 120 mercruiser. The out drive does not
    shift.
    
    I  believe that the outdrive
    shifter cable is the culprit since there is a 3/4 inch spot on the
    cable where the plastic jacket is damaged and the metal shield is damaged
    and rusty. 
    
    I have the Mercruiser shop manuals but am hoping to hear some hints
    from the school of hard knocks.
    
    Does the outdrive have to be loosened and pulled back some in order to 
    disconnect the exhaust bellows, shifter cable bellows, water intake
    hose, etc? It looks like I can get at the exhaust bellows clamp but the
    others look concealed.
    
    I would assume that the shifting can be checked once the drive is
    removed and the shift cable is removed.
    
    My first objective is to assess the goodness of the  outdrive
    before spending $$$ on this thing. I would plan on replacing the
    bellows and water intake hose before reassembly. Are there
    any other parts in that  area that should be replaced while it is
    apart? 
    
    I will also drop the lower end and check it out and replace the
    impeller.
    
    This boat (1975 Starcraft Islander) has not been in the water since
    1991. The engine runs very well and the hydraulics work fine.
    
    John
    

��                      <<< Note 847.18 by NPSS::BUZYNSKI >>>
��                  -< Outdrive shift cable replacement hints. >-

��    Does the outdrive have to be loosened and pulled back some in order to 
��    disconnect the exhaust bellows, shifter cable bellows, water intake
��    hose, etc? It looks like I can get at the exhaust bellows clamp but the
��    others look concealed.

    If you want to replace the driveshaft bellows, you have to
    remove the outdrive from the intermediate housing.  Replacing
    the rest of the stuff will be much easier if you remove the
    outdrive, as you can then contort the intermediate housing
    more.

    Since you want to replace the water pump, the simplest thing
    is to remove the outdrive and then split the upper and lower
    cases.  While you can remove the lower case without doing
    this, it's lots harder.  With the outdrive off, you can also
    grease the universal joints in the drive shaft.

    The biggest risk in an unused drive is that the drive shaft
    spline has rusted into the coupler on the flywheel.

    Good luck.  Buy, use and love neverseize.   I have some junk
    parts if you're interested...

    	- Lee

    Lee, 
    
    I removed the outdrive without any problem. The universal and spline
    looked new with fresh looking grease. Almost like it had recently benn
    apaen apart and serviced. 
    
    The shifter cable is definately frozen.
    The lower end shifts into gear OK manuually and everthing seems
    tight.
    
    I got a NAPA Marine parts catalog from my local NAPA dealer at no
    charge.  They even carry the shifter cable, shift levers outdrive
    gears, bearings etc. 
    
    I may get out of this without mortgaging my house yet.
    
    I will give you a call to see what you have for parts.
    
    Thanks
    
    John