| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 759.1 | SPRING LINES | BIZNIS::CADMUS | | Mon Oct 01 1990 14:02 | 14 |
|
I have a 22' and back ito my slip- and it's in very tight quarters,
When the wind and current are agaist me, I've always used spring lines.
I take a line from a bow cleat, run it past the stern, and make it fast
to a cleat on the dock that I ususlally tie the stern line to. - I then
put the engine in gear, turm the wheel so that the rudder is slightly
off cenetr an tring to bring the stern toward the dock.-
Puts me up agaist the dock slicker'n a smelt.
Chapmans has some pretty good hints on dockin in close quarters in
less than ideal conditions. If you understand the forces and reactions,
you can do some amazing manuevers- especially in a single screw
inboard.
|
| 759.2 | Backing into a slip with a single I/O | USCTR1::FMACGILLIVRA | MACGILLIVRAY | Mon Oct 01 1990 14:06 | 11 |
| I have exactly the same problem that you mentioned with a 28' Bayliner
single outdrive. My biggest problem is the bow going out on me which
forces me to have to go forward to gain control of it and then
attempting to back in again. I try to gauge the wind. If it is
strong, I need to get in quickly or I am in trouble.
I would be interested also in any special techniques that anyone has.
So far, I have not seen anyone who has a technique to keep the bow
from straying on you.
Look forward to anyone's suggestions.
|
| 759.3 | May I suggest a book | STAR::KENNEY | | Mon Oct 01 1990 14:31 | 9 |
|
I have a copy of a very good book that covers just about every boat
handling case you can imagine. The title is something like (Boat
handling in tight quarters) if I remember I will look it up tonight.
Could be worse try backing a large under powered sailboat into a tight
slip makes you appreciate the luxury of having an outdrive and power to
spare.
Forrest
|
| 759.4 | I can relate to this | SUBSYS::CHESTER | | Mon Oct 01 1990 17:41 | 18 |
| Very familiar with this problem. 26 ft starfire with a single IO.
I can get it right 5 to 8 time in a row then oops. Then it's time to play
with the 600 grit sandpaper again. I came to some conclusions. If the
wind is directly on to the slip. don't even think of it. Bow in.
If the wind is off the slip. No problem. Makes it look easy.
If the wind is at right angles to the slip. Approach into the wind
and start the turn. Let the wind almost complete the swing then back
in. If you miss you can make it look like you where planing to do a
complete u-turn.
The other thing that helps. Have strong mate in the bow with
a pole/boathook etc to fend off when you misjudge. Note not if
when.
Good luck and keep trying.
Ken Chester
|
| 759.5 | try this, and be patient... | HYEND::J_BORZUMATO | | Tue Oct 02 1990 13:05 | 52 |
| Ray, (and others) my last boat was a 28' with a single screw, and it
took me awhile to understand what was happening.
1st of the dam thing would only back to Port, i don't care what
you did. I devised a scheme which i will attempt to explain below:
The situation i was in was: The marina had poles to which you attached
you bow lines, and a floating dock (it can be done with fixed docks)
South ---Wind is South West 20 Knots--
<------------- (your boat)
East X X X X X West
y
o
u
r
North
s
l
i
p
Send your mate into the cockpit, have them grab the line on the pole,
which in effect is your Port bow line, and have them attach it
to your port stern cleat. Make sure they only take 1/2 turn on it,
and DO NOT make it fast. FORGET WHER YOUR RUDDER OR DRIVE IS
FOR THE MOMENT. Put it in reverse, at low speed, the stern of
the vessel CAN ONLY go into your slip. Once the stern is about 1/4
of the way in, have the mate remove the line from the stern
cleat, at this point it will no longer help.
KEEP THE FOLLOWING IN MIND:
Power with Power, always power your bow against the wind, if you
don't the wind will take your bow as you ALMOST get into your
slip. When you Power with Power, you need only to add more throttle
to overcome the wind.
I have twin inboards, and at times the wind does funny things
and it ain't worth the hassle, so i use the above.
The second time you do this, it will feel is if you always did..
JIm.
|
| 759.6 | oooooooppppppppsssss | HYEND::J_BORZUMATO | | Tue Oct 02 1990 13:08 | 12 |
| re: .5
the X's are the poles in front of you slip.
The first thing to do is Lay the vessel against the poles.
Sorry i omitted these..
JIm.
|
| 759.7 | DO IT SLOW! NO POWER! | SALEM::KLOTZ | | Thu Oct 04 1990 14:34 | 81 |
| I (Humbly) disagree with some of the above comments & ofFer some
thoughts:
The concept of always trying to power the bow into the wind/current
is not as recommended as most think. Your boat is a weather vane
and the bow tends to want to point into the wind by nature. If you
watch a professional sport fishing captain in a real bad blow they
will always go stern to the wind and let the bow follow.
I have found there are two big catches (therefore some mistakes) folks
tend to make:
One is the mere concept of "Powering into the slip" - this only needs
to be done if the wind/current has a major vector comming out of the
slip -- otherwise the vector is towards the slip (possibly at some
angle) but none the less will cause you to drift 'into' the slip -
your goal in this case is to 1) DO IT SLOWLY & 2) OFFSET THE DRIFT
caused by the wind/current.
Try this out in the open (away from the slip) -
Regardless of wind/current there are two positions of the boat where
you can hold it motionless 1-Bow towards the vector 2- Stern towards the
vector. Pick one of these - say bow towards the vector first - and
try to remain in ONE SPOT. The way you do this is with short &
dileberate bursts of the throttle while keeping the boat directly into
the vector (i.e. you get pushed back two inches then power forward two
inches)
Once you can do this try turning the bow a very few degrees towards
port -- this results in the vector hitting the starboard side so if you
maintain no forward or reverse motion the boat will slip towards the
port (looks like it is going sideways)
Now try it to the starboard motion, then reverse the vessel and try
both motions with the stern into the vector of wind/current.
Now that you can do this go to your slip and slide the boat sideways
until you are about lined up for entry and motionless (either bow or
stern first - though I prefer stern in):
If the wind is OUT of the slip its easy: You use short bursts to
overcome the vector and slide in.
If the wind is INTO the slip it's also easy: You use SLIGHTLY less
bursts of power than it takes to remain motionless - the vector is not
overcome - so the vessel DRIFTS into the slip.
If the Vector is cross to your dock (too many total angles to discuss so
just get the concept) it's tricker; but, not difficult: Move the
vessel towards the direction the vector is comming from a few feet &
again remain motionless - now - with a slight change in the angle of
the vessel the wind/current will try to walk you sideways back pass the
slip again - if while doing this you apply the short bursts (or use
less) the vessel will also have a motion into the slip. You want to be
close to the slip entry & inch it in as you are slowly drifting pass
it.
The First line you want to drop is a spring from a Mid-Ship cleat
towards the direction the vector is comming from (Bow or stern) -
This will cause the motion of the vessel (in/out of the slip) to be
checked and neither the bow nor stern will drift out too far because
the other end will lean into the dock. Indeed if the vector is very
strong leave a little power on into the vector with the wheel cut such
that it forces the boat into the dock.
By now I have you entirely confused; sorry but, it's hard to explain
without a chaulk board - but for all it's worth I have used this
technique on a 20' Single outboard cuddy, a 26' single outdrive cabin,
and a 34' twin inboard in the Merrimack River for 9 years with very
good success - currents in the 0 to 6 knot range at 30 degrees to the
slip & every wind you can think of - so I believe in it.
If you'd like to discuss it for clarity feel free to give me a call.
One last comment (from an overly wordy type) THE KEY IS SLOW!!!
If you can't hold the boat motionless & move inches at a time practice
this first. Do it SLOW & don't get Stressed.
Good Luck,
Lou
|
| 759.8 | Practice makes (almost) perfect | HOCUS::CULLEN | | Fri Oct 05 1990 17:48 | 13 |
| If I may offer some further suggestion...
I am in violent agreement with the suggestion of SLOW. My addition
to this advice is that you should keep in mind that a Right hand screw
boat(as most are today) will back to PORT.
I have also successfully used the concept of wind vectors to control my
boat in docking maneuvers for the past 14 years.
good luck,
Tom Cullen
|
| 759.9 | Agreement and more info. | SUBSYS::CHESTER | | Fri Oct 05 1990 19:18 | 19 |
| I agree with the previous two replys. Go slow and use the wind/curend
to turn the boat. As a clarification to .4, backing into the slip is
not the main problem. The main one is the 90 deg turn I have to make
at the end of the slip. The distance from the end of the slip to the
pier on the other side of the channel is about 30 to 35 feet. I have
tried using the slips on the other side of the main pier. There the
distance is several hundred feet to the next pier. So I can set up
the boat to drift into the slip or use power to overcome the wind
current. Much easier. There is time to correct for errors.
On the narrow side. when the wind is across the slip. Approaching with
the bow into the wind allows me to start backing in and use the wind to
swing the bow.
Thanks for all the ideas. I will be tring them this weekend.
Ken C
|
| 759.10 | | FREEBE::FEUERSTEIN | If it isnt a SEARAY... | Fri Oct 05 1990 22:40 | 28 |
|
-<Slow and practice>-
I have to agree that docking manuevers are best done slow, with
just enough power to maintain control. The trick is to know how
much your boat is affected by the varying angles ands strengths
of the elements and what it take to overcome them. Every boat reacts
slightly differently due to amount of freeboard,weight,hull design,etc.
Basically, know your boat. Test it in open water. A few of the previous
notes talk about spring lines. This is all well and good with a
knowledgeable crew-mate. I would suggest that you learn to dock
the boat without depending on extra help. There are invariably times
when that extra help isn't available. IMHO the most important aspect
of tight manuevering is to know the pivot point of your boat and
set up using that knowledge.
Andy
|
| 759.11 | A piece of cake! | WJOUSM::SCHLEGEL | | Tue Nov 27 1990 13:41 | 4 |
| Oh boy! You guys (and gulls) are going to love this!
I humbly suggest the use of my recently invented portable bow-thruster.
It slips over the bow. I haven't figured out what to charge for it,
yet. If seriously interested, contact me at home (617-237-2952).
|
| 759.12 | Hire a tugboat. | SALEM::NORCROSS_W | | Wed Nov 28 1990 09:05 | 4 |
| You could always have a tugboat standing by.
Wayne (who_crashes_into_the_dock_because_his_motor_stalls) Norcross
|
| 759.13 | Electric Trolling Motor | EXPRES::GILMAN | | Wed Nov 28 1990 09:26 | 4 |
| How about an electric trolling motor? That would make a pretty good
bow thruster would't it? They are readily available too.
Jeff
|