Conference vicki::boats

Assuming the engines are mechanically in good shape:

 -case seals intact
 -rings not frozen 
 -reed valves intact
 -new spark plugs with the right gap
 -you get a fat BLUE spark
 -you have fresh gas with the correct oil mixture
 -you are able to pump up the squeeze bulb until it gets quite firm
 
--- they should start. 

I would NEVER, NEVER use ether on an outboard motor, particularly one
that is in questionable condition. The air/gas/oil mixture is sucked in
thrugh the carburetor air intake, passed through the crankcase where it's
used to lubricate everything, then into the combustion chamber. It's not
uncommon for the cylinder explosion to creep back into the crankcase.
Ether is so volatile that the crankcase could explode. Plus, ether tends
to wash the oil off the needle bearings in the crankcase; instant
scoring.

You might run some OMC 2+4 (or is it 2+2?) fuel conditioner through them

But. If they were put away with gas still in the carbs, the guts of the
carbs might be gummed up with residue from evaporated gas. I think that
means a carb rebuild.

Those engines should start within three pulls when cold (first time that
day), and on one pull the rest of the day.

Art

    I would suspect the electrics before I would start on the carb.
    Carbs are very simple and rarely fail. You may wish to drain the
    carb bowl to remove any sediments that may be present.

    Start on the tune up. Make sure you check the ohms reading for each
    of the coils be within spec. Replace the two sets of points/condenser
    and set to spec. Any boat shop can tell you what the proper gap is.

    Also check the plug wires very carefully. A worn or broken plug
    wire can be the cause of many performance problems from rough starts
    to won't run at all.

    The reasons for the performance differences span from the performance
    of the motor to improper propeller pitch to lower end depth.

    Start with the tune up.

    .re last 2
    From what I understand (1) Never use Ether (2) Rebuild the Carb
    (3) change the points and condenser (4) Check the electrics
    
    Any tips on changing the Points? Is a gear puller really necessary?
    The gear puller I have is medium sized and meant for a three-six inch
    gear. Do you think it will work?
    
    I found a Johnson Dealer across from the Pheasant Lane Mall in Nashua
    and will try to get some info from them when thry're open.
    
    	Thanks for the info, Chris
    

    
    You will need a flywheel puller which uses three screws to attach the
    flywheel to the puller. Do not use a standard gear puller as you
    can damage the teeth of the flywheel and even warp it.
    
    Second, since the plugs are getting wet with fuel I would put off
    rebuilding the carb till after the electrics are dealt with
    and tested (tune-up-wires-plugs).
    
    You can get a puller at Sears in the mall or if you live near Milford
    I could come over and pull the flywheel for you.
    
    Doug.

    
    
     BOth these, motors are a little long in the tooth. a common problem
    with these older magneto ignitions is that the magneto plate (the plate
    that the coils and points are mounted on) gets worn and sloppy where it
    rotates around the engine block- check the palte fro any sloppiness- I
    have seen them so bad that hou could open and close thepoints by
    wobbling the plate.
    
     If the carbs are adjusted properly, the engine should start up cold
    w/choke or hot w/o choke on one or two pulls. I and my son have had 4
    of theses basic 35/40 engines o=ver the years- they are tough
    ,relioable, simple.
     
     Get yourself a meanual- get the carbs adjusted, check
    points/plugs/wires/mag coils, and mag plate. Use fresh gaso;ine with
    the correct gas/oil ratio and she should start right up.
    
     The ignition sysrtem on all these old 2 cyl OMC enginwes is the same.
    Poinmts,condensor,coils are interchangeable. They are also the most
    unreliable part of the engine- magneto coils and condensors frequently
    fail- also the plugs used to dib=ve me nuts- one drop of water in the
    gas and they were history- same if a plug got oil fouled. Other than
    t5hat you couldn't kill these engines.
    

    The warm starting (hard) sounds more like too advanced timing. One or
    two degrees can make the difference between hard starting and fouling
    plugs. Start with checking the timing on the one who starts different
    when hot. Check also that the advance mechanism isn't binding. BTW,
    old Johnsons run best when you open the throttle widest, back off until
    just before the revs die down (takes a little practice and feel). This
    allows the engine to fully advance the spark without over driving the
    carbs (max RPM + min fuel = best performance)
    
    Larry (who owned lots o' Johnsons)