| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 423.1 | I vote Yea | SWAPIT::SCHMUHL | | Thu Jul 06 1989 13:59 | 16 |
| I have a 1976 SRV220 with a 190 HP OMC outdrive. The engine is a
Ford 302 industrial engine. The hull is the OV220 (see it in the
serial number.) SRV simply means Sea Ray Vessel. My boat has a cuddy
cabin bow, stove/icebox/sink/helm on the starboard, dinette/bed
on the port. The boat has been all over the New Jersey/ New York
area in both salt and fresh water. It is extremely dry, comfortable
and reliable. I used approx 20 gallons of fuel to go from Bridgeport
Conn - Perth Amboy New Jersey via the East river and New York harbor
at approx 3,000 Rpm. The boat is heavy and trim tabs are a must.
It has a hardtop with two sets of windshields, camper canvas and
a mooring cover.
I have pulled waterskiers with others aboard, and we had a bunch
on it in Barnegat (right Rich?) It has smacked docks, run aground
and still looks good. I paid $8500.00 three years ago for it.
|
| 423.2 | Makes me feel better about it! | SMVDV1::JGUNNERSON | JLG | Fri Jul 07 1989 09:35 | 15 |
| Re. .1,
Thank you. It sounds as if these boats share the same hull (I didn't
copy down the serial number), but differ in the way they are fitted up,
and have different outdrives. Your's has a hardtop and a cabin, this
one is basically a big runabout with a cuddy. But since they are
otherwise so similiar I am glad that you could offer some valuable
information!
I wonder if Mercruiser used the same "industrial" engine as OMC did?
I am taking it for a sea trial tomorrow, anything that I should
look for on this particular hull/powerplant/outdrive?
john
|
| 423.3 | I have enjoyed mine, too | WTRSKR::cardos | Dave Cardos ZKO3-3/T79 381-0376 | Fri Jul 07 1989 10:08 | 23 |
| I have a 1974 SRV220 with the 188 Merc which I've owned since 1976.
The 188 is baseed on the Ford 302. I rebuilt the engine myself in 1980.
It had been having overheating problems and started to sound bad. There
were a couple of reasons for the noise, the crank was worn and the
inside of the cylinders were worn out of round. I discovered the source
of the overheating problem and the resulting wear in a Car Craft magazine
article on 302's. The artcle explained that you can use 351 heads on 302's
to get better breathing, but you must be careful because some year's of
351 heads had cooling passages that don't match the 302 block. They listed the
serial number range of the heads. I checked mine and low and behold I had
351 heads in the offending range. I checked the cooling passges and the
the middle one on the inside of each did not join. The prescribed fix was
to drill new cooling passages in the head (a single 9/32 hole in each).
I did it and completed the rebuild. The engine has been running smoothly
(and cool) ever since. In checking with Merc, the said that they did use
351 heads for some time in the 188, but that the problem that I had found
couldn't be true. I guess support has the same problems all over...
This was my only problem with this boat. I have used it in both fresh water
(Winnipesaukee) and the salt (Cape Cod and Nantucket) and enjoyed it a
great deal. If the engine is sound, I would go for it.
Dave
|
| 423.4 | Better than I expected <fixed> | SMVDV1::JGUNNERSON | JLG | Tue Jul 11 1989 09:30 | 67 |
| I wish I could change the title, it is a SRV220, SS# does contain 220CC.
I had a turn at the helm of this boat. Overall pretty nice, for it's
age. Thanks to the remarks here and in the general note on testing out
used boats (note #429), I feel pretty good about it. I left a
conditional deposit on the agreed upon price of $6200.
I didn't get a chance to experience it in the ocean, there was very
little gas in it (or the gauge was broken) and the marina's tanks were
being replaced. There was a good wind and chop in the cove and we ran it
against our own wake on top of that. I hope to get it out on the ocean.
Everything appeared and felt sound and solid (exceptions listed below),
with acceptable wear and tear for the age. All (except gas gauge?)
instruments seemed to work, and the temperature gauge never rose above
the mid-point at anytime.
Exceptions:
Windshield was slightly loose at base, assumed it can be tightened from
below, but interior fabric (which appeared could be removed with
screws) was covering that area.
One seat base was missing anchor screws on one side.
The latch button on the anchor locker was really stuck, got it open.
The exceptions on the electrical accessory side of things:
I never saw water leave the bilge pump, though I could hear it running
(I also may not have not known where to look, though I should have
heard any water going over the side). I don't know if this should worry
me, these pumps aren't really all that expensive to replace and the one
in my friend's boat doesn't seem to pump instantly, and not at all even
when there is water in the bilge but below a certain level. There was
some water in the bilge. It's been only semi-covered in the rain.
The spot light lights and move horizontally, but not vertically.
Possible gas gauge problem, I plan to bring 5 gallons and pour it in to
see if it registers.
From what I could tell the engine seems to be fine, as does the
outdrive. It ran well, didn't act up. In tight turns there were no
strange noises or vibrations. Everything seemed as it should. I have a
question though. In a steady, slow turn, I felt a slight on and off tug
at the wheel, sort of a lessening and increasing pressure against my
turning of the wheel. It was subtle, but there. The person riding with
me said it was normal - a torque reaction, that can be somewhat
compensated by adjusting a small fin on the outdrive. From what I can
remember when driving me friend's boat it did the same thing, so the
dealer might be telling the truth here.
This boat is being brokered through a small, established marina (Goose
Hummock in Orleans). The dealer claims that the owner of the boat is a
friend of the family that owns Goose Hummock, that it is of known good
condition, that it was run on Lake Winnipesaukee except for one year in
Wellfleet harbor. As I have said before, this boat's overall condition
seems to reflect that (in my humble opinion), and one other thing, the
anchor, it's way too small for ocean use, and was probably too small
for that lake too.
My unbiased observer was my father-in-law, and liked it. He approved,
which is unusual for him. He does have an eye for problem cases.
john
|
| 423.5 | Sounds decent | WTRSKR::cardos | Dave Cardos ZKO3-3/T79 381-0376 | Tue Jul 11 1989 14:17 | 27 |
| With regard to exceptions:
Windshield - It is quite simple to get at the windshield. The interior panels
come off easily exposing the mounts. At one point, I removed mine and
recaulked it. Besides making it water tight again, it elimiated the rattles.
Seats - The seat mounting on this and many other runabouts is a weak point
(especially for ocean use). When mine broke off completely on a trip to
Nantucket, I replaced them with buckets on pedestals mounts.
I used large anchors to secure the base since I cannot get under the flooring.
Worked great!
Bilge pump - Easy an inexpensive to replace if needed.
Gas guage - Its usually a problem with the sending unit in the tank. Mine was
simple and inexpensive to replace when it went.
Steering tug - Yes, I recall that mine did something similar under some
conditions. I once had this and another related vibration checked, thinking
that it might be a u-joint problem, but all was well. I don't think that
adjusting the trim fin will do anything for this. The fin is designed to
compensate for the tendancy of the boat to pull to one side, due to torque.
It should be adjusted to provide the desired feel when going straight at
cruising speed.
Enjoy!
Dave
|
| 423.6 | But can I tow it with a Caprice with a 305? | SMVDV1::JGUNNERSON | JLG | Tue Jul 11 1989 15:20 | 27 |
| Thank you for your input again Dave, your first hand experience is very
helpful. I wasn't too worried about the imperfections I found, but
noted them in case any were known signs of a more expensive problem.
I have arranged for a surveyor to look at the boat (cost: $130), to
estimate the cost of any problems, so I know what I am in for. The first
expenses are, a new cover, the old one is very bad, and a bigger anchor.
I couldn't check the seat situation throughly enough to determine if the
screws pulled out due to a rotting condition, or just because, as you
say, these seat systems are a weak point. (I just want to say though,
that the track-adjustable and laying down mechanism is a lot better
than the typical folding mechanisms that I have seen on most boats.)
It seemed a remote possibility that the windshield mounting holes may
be cracked, or worn, in some typical manner so the windshield couldn't
be tightened down without [expensive] repair to the top of the cabin.
BTW - it wasn't loose enough to rattle with the center glass in place,
it was something that I felt when tugging at all the hardware attached
to the deck and hull.
Since I didn't see a way to get under the floor, and there seemed to be
no hatches over the fuel tank, I wasn't sure how easy (expensive) it
would be to replace the fuel gauge sending unit if that is what it was.
I am happy to hear you say that is was easy and not too expensive.
john
|
| 423.7 | Let the dealer fix the pump and gauge. | BINKLY::SMITH | | Tue Jul 11 1989 16:44 | 20 |
|
RE: Bilge Pump and Fuel Gauge.
Since the boat is being brokered thru a dealer I would see
if you can work some sort of deal with the dealer to have
him fix these things when you are discussing the final sale
price. A bildge pump and fuel gauge are two items that you
really want to have working before you head out into the
water. They may be inexpensive items to replace, but rarely
are either of these objects in a convenient place to work on
them.
RE: checking out the gas guage.
I do not know how big of a gas tank you have but 5 gallons MAY
not be enough to really move the needle much if there is a
50+ gallon gas tank.
Good luck, sounds like you are doing the right things.
Mike
|
| 423.8 | Looks better, now up to the bank | SMVDV1::JGUNNERSON | JLG | Mon Jul 17 1989 14:21 | 29 |
| I can report now that the bilge pump works. I guess that there wasn't
enough water in it before for the bump to work. There was quite a bit
of rain water in it and the bilge pump quickly pumped it out. Although
it stops pumping when the water reaches the tops of the intake grille
slits, which is normal I guess.
The gas gauge also seems to work. If it really doesn't the top of the
gas tank is easily accessible by removing four screws holding a teak
step leading to the cuddy. The sending unit is there to clean the
connections or replace it.
The windshield mounting bolts are easy to reach after removing the
interior panel. The bolts are a bit loose, there is nothing wrong with
the deck they are mounted to.
The Sea Ray seems to be well made, but there are shortcuts. For
instance, the loose seat I mentioned. The cross beams on the bottom
of the seatbase are screwed solidly into floor (except for one screw
that was leveraged out), but the square box base is merely stapled
to the cross pieces. What happened is that the base was pulled from
the cross pieces. They'll be screwed to them (the cross pieces may
have to be replaced - no big deal).
It has a very nice "White Cap" brand top, it extends to allow seating
all the way to the rear (I'm not sure if this is a camper canvas, but
it isn't a "fastback" style which doesn't allow sitting in the rear.
I put it up to check it out.
john
|
| 423.9 | Imminent | SMVDV1::JGUNNERSON | JLG | Fri Jul 21 1989 10:18 | 46 |
| Well, it's about to happen. I've arranged the finances to buy this one and
plan to have it in the water Saturday. I went to Bliss last night and
got stuff that wasn't on the boat, like a chart, distress signals, a
boathook, and oars for the dinghy. One of the big problems was where to
keep the boat. Accepting the axiom that you want the boat in the water,
you don't have to many choices. Mine were:
1. Tow it. The problem is that I have no hitch on my car, the boat and
trailer are really pushing the limits of the car. Minimum cost $370 for
hitch and trailer stuff installed plus $160 for new springs and airlift
shocks on the car. That doesn't include load equalization stuff. Also
the trailer's surge brakes need work, that would have to be done right
away. With 2 or 3 below I could put that off for a month or two since
the dealer will put it in the water for me.
2. Moor it. The problem is availability of mooring space in Harwich.
Almost all locations have long waiting lists. Minimum cost: one time
$370 for anchor, chain, and float + $25 (annual fee) to the town.
3. Slip. Cost and availability are the big problems. Harwich has
ten year slip waiting lists. Marinas are $880 (for a rack) to $2200
per year.
I didn't have the chance to look into every possible option for keeping
the boat handy. Option 1 was my last choice, option 3 was just too
expensive. I concentrated on finding a mooring space. I got one for
Pleasant Bay in Harwich. The pluses are that it is protected from the
open ocean, offers a pretty big area in which to run and gain salt
water experience without having to venture into the real ocean, and can
be used on days the ocean is too rough. The draw backs are that it is
on the other side of town from my place in Harwich (about 22 minutes,
depending on tourists and retirees), getting in and out of the bay may
be tight at low tide, it'll be a long row from where you can park to
the boat, and though protected from the open ocean the bay is big
enough that it is nothing like a harbor or a cove it terms of
protection. But it was all that was available in Harwich.
This could turn into quite an adventure. I'll have to bring the mooring
to the harbor master for inspection, go back to the boat, find fuel,
get the boat from Nauset harbor to Pleasant Bay, and get the mooring in
the water in the right place.
Wish me luck, and thanks for the help on this decsion. I know I'll
be back for advice on the problems I'll have.
john
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| 423.10 | First question as owner | SMVDV1::JGUNNERSON | JLG | Mon Jul 24 1989 16:41 | 40 |
| Well, I discovered that the gas gauge really does work, after taking
on 60 gallons of fuel, which at $81 came as quite a shock to someone
who is used to thinking about boat fuel in multiples of 6 gallons.
(No one at dealership knew the fuel tank size of this boat). I was
lucky though, we filled at a gas station before getting to the water
where I imagine the gas is probably 30� more per gallon at least.
That was the big shock. It needs a tune-up badly. Other than that
everything was pretty much as I expected it.
One other thing, you guys are right. As soon as I hit the real ocean
water outside of the break in Nauset Beach I wanted a bigger boat.
(Lot's of things we want though, it what we can afford that we have.)
Of course there were times it was too big, like trying to get into
round cove at low water. Impossible. Or learning to dock it with
competing winds and currents.
I have a question. This has what I would call an "old-style" trim
tilt control. It has three buttons like this:
___
| | UP
---
___ UP
------ | | ------
--- OUT
___
| | in
---
There is no owner's manual else I'd RTFM before asking here. I don't
understand the function the center button or its labeling. To raise
the lower unit I have to push the top buttons together. To lower
it I push the bottom buttom alone. What is the proper use of this
power trim control pad?
john
|
| 423.11 | I'll bet its the trim switch. | ATSE::URBAN | | Mon Jul 24 1989 17:35 | 12 |
| I'll take a guess before I look at the various tilt controls described
in my manuals... Most I/O's have a trim limit switch which prevents
trimming up beyond a certain number of degrees (the number 22 come to
mind, but that could be wrong)...well anyway, from your description
that both buttons have to be held to tilt the motor I think the
top button is the "trim" up switch..that is, its wired thru the trim
limit switch so you can trim without exceeding the maximum angle the
outdrive should be run at under normal operation. BTW, this is normally
adjustable.
The "two buttons together" is called on other controls, the "trailer"
switch allowing for full up tilt of the unit.
|