T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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375.1 | GET A MANUAL ASAP! | BIZNIS::CADMUS | | Mon May 15 1989 12:29 | 11 |
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I'm not familiar with the newer OMC outdrives- But i would get a
manual ASAP. After market manuals are available at most marine supply
houses and some dealers. If you are in the Bostson Area- Bliss MArine
in Dedham gas manuals.
It sure sounds like an Oil drian/fill plug from the description (
O-ring)
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375.2 | Shifter? | ROBOAT::HEBERT | Captain Bligh | Tue May 16 1989 09:52 | 17 |
| On outboard lower units, there are frequently three screws: the gearcase lube
fill vent screw at the top; the gearcase lube drain screw at the bottom; and
another screw near the bottom that is actually the pivot point for the
shifter fork. All three screws have O-rings, and sometimes a teflon washer.
The two gearcase lube screws are SLOTTET while the third, shifter mechanism
screw is phillips. The phillips screw should never be removed unless you're
removing the gear assembly and doing serious lower unit work. I inadvertantly
removed this screw once on a Johnson OB and had a hell of a time getting
everything squared away. I remember that much, but I don't remember what I
had to do, outside of opening up the lower unit because part of the shifter
mechanism was mounted on that screw and either fell off inside or simply went
out of sight.
All this is on an outboard; I do NOT know how similar it is to an I/O. Get
a shop manual, and/or drop in on a shop and ask a mechanic.
Art
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375.3 | I have the answers!! | WFOV12::GIBSON | catch me...if you can | Tue May 16 1989 11:41 | 29 |
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All;
I stopped at the local OMC dealer yesterday afternoon, and explained
what happened. The mechanic was super. He not only told me what
to do, he also brought me into the shop and showed me how.
What I have to do:
o Remove the six shoulder bolts and two nuts that hold the vertical
drive to the pivot housing. Sounds easy enough. Actually, its
a lot easier than I thought it would be.
o Pull the unit from the pivot housing, the "nut" will be accessable
in the exposed water jacket.
o To reassemble: place the yoke back into the pivot housing while
carefully pushing the drive back into place. The shoulder bolts
will center themselves and the unit.
While I was there, I purchased the 1 gasket and 1 o ring, 6 tubes
of 90wt. oil that I need to complete the job. Looks like I 'll be
in the water this weekend after all.
By the way, the dealer was the Oxbow Marina, on the Conn. River
in Northampton, Ma. Sure am pleased with their support.
Andy...
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375.4 | Easier by the gallon | ROBOAT::HEBERT | Captain Bligh | Wed May 17 1989 09:42 | 14 |
| Andy, you might look into getting your gearcase lube by the gallon. The process
becomes a bit easier than sqeezing six tubes, and you won't lose as much while
you're swapping tubes.
I picked up a gallon and a plastic pump about five years ago, and the pump
has lasted through at least three gallon jug replacements. The pump
screws onto the top of the jug in place of the cap; it has a flexible tube about
18" long with a fitting that friction-fits into OMC gearcase lube holes. It's
an OMC accessory, so the price is about twice what it should be. But, it's
a real help, I think.
Sounds like you found a good dealer; care to share their name & location?
Art
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375.5 | Pump's Away | WFOV12::GIBSON | catch me...if you can | Tue May 30 1989 15:37 | 13 |
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Re: 4
Art,
I agree with your idea of a pump to pump the gear case oil, so
much in fact that a bought one for $29.00. I can use it to change the
oil in the engine crankcase too.
The dealer is listed in .3.
Andy...
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