Conference vicki::boats

    Rob,
    I believe you've got the two reversed. The vent should be closed
    while transporting to prevent spillage and overflow. It should
    be open while running to allow air to take the place of fuel that
    is sucked from the tank.
    
    Rick W.

    Also make sure that the vent actually works.
    
    I got a Tempo portable tank about a year ago, that had a Mfg defect in
    the vent cap. The screw on the vent cap was supposed to have one side
    flattened so that when the screw is screwed down, the head of the screw
    sits on a rubber gasket and hence sealing the tank. When the screw was
    loosened, it theory the flattened side of the thread would let air
    pass by the threaded insert in the vent cap.
    
    The problem with my vent was that the screw was not flattened enough,
    so that just about any fuel vapor condensing on the screw threads
    would effectively seal the tank. 
    
    Five minutes with a file cured it.
    
    Re: .0
    
    From your description it certainly sounds like you didn't have the
    vent open, since as you started pumping out fuel you created a vacuum
    that was eventually strong enough to pull the bottom of the tank
    in. I wish I had a fuel pump that was that strong ... ;-)
    
    /jim

    
    	At a guess I'd say you filled it hot, then placed it in the
    boat with the vent closed.  The bottom of the boat probably chilled
    the can, especially if it was sloshing around in water, resulting
    in the can getting sucked in.  I doubt that a fuel pump could suck
    that hard.
    
    	Reg
    
    

< Reply to Notes 90.1-3 >

Thanks for the replies.  I usually fill up the tanks just before taking the 
boat out and it was sitting sereral days before I took it out last.  The
tank collapsed so hard that it bent the rod containing the fuel level
float.  The vent actually works very well and my assumption now is that the 
vacuum created actually collapsed the tank.

I'll try your suggestion about closing the vent to transport the tanks
and to open the vent when actually using the tanks out on the water.  It
does seems to make sense that air should replace the gas that was in the
tank.  I don't know how to uncollapse the tank though.  I'll probably have
to go buy a new tank for $20 at K-Mart.

The tank fill gages never seem to work right.  When I fill up the six 
gallon tanks the gages only read 3/4 full.  I saw an electronic fluid
level detector in K-Mart for @ $10 that you can use for wind-shield
washers or to indicate fluid levels in other devices.  I was thinking
about getting one of those to try.  I never know I'm out of gas till
the tank actually runs dry.  I don't have any console gages to look at.

							Rob.    

    Open the cap and look inside.
    
    There is so much sloshing in a 6 gal. tank that no gauge can
    be accurate.

    re .4	Are these plastic or steel cans/tanks ?  If plastic you
    might be able to "Blow them out" again just by leaving them empty
    with the vent open overnight, when the sun comes up close the vent
    and put them on a blacktop driveway, BUT WATCH 'EM !  or you could
    blow 'em apart.  I doubt this would work for steel, though it might,
    depends where its sucked in.
    
    	Reg
    
    

	Empty the tank and get access to a compresson, (gas station?).
	You should be able to "blow" the tank back to it's original
	shape.  A little bit og inginuity will help you couple the air
	hose to the ailing tank either through the fill hole or the
	supply coupler.  BEWARE***  as Reg stated...MAKE SURE that the 
	tank doesn't leak after this "fix" or it could be BY BY everything.

	As far as the guage goes...Some guages are calibratable by either
	turning the mechanism that the cork rides up and down on independant
	of the cap or, by shimming or dishing the top of the tank or cap
	so that the guage reads full.  AGAIN BEWARE.  What you gain towards 
	the "fill line"...you may loose at the "empty line".

	good luck__mike

    Rob,
    Before you go and blow yourself to kingdom come please make certain
    that your $10.00 Electronic Kmart window washer fluid gauge is 
    designed for use in a flamable liquid!!

                   
    Good luck
    Mike
    

    Rob,
    I STRONGLY suggest you forget the Kmart electronic idea and s___
    can the tank and get a new one!!!! Don't mess with trying to blow
    it back into shape. Who knows what other damage has been done to
    it that will show up when your on the water and gas starts pouring
    out of the tank. I think the following sound is BOOOOOM!!!
    
    Get a new tank and have it calibrated by the dealer. Then use the
    proper vent proceedures and you shouldn't have any more trouble.
    
    Did you know that a cup full of gasoline FUMES has the same 
    explosive force as one stick of dynamite ???
    
    Keep it SAFE !!
    
    Don
    

< Reply to Notes 90.9-9 >

I took your suggestions about forgetting to get a K-Mart electronic fluid
level sensor.

I did manage to uncompress my six gallon gas tank by popping it back into
shape by using manual hand pressure on the sides of the tank.  I checked
it out filled it up and used it this weekend.  So far, it seems to be OK.

There's one thing that I'm not too keen about.  The boat did not come with
a battery when I bought it.  I went out and purchased a new SEARS Marine
battery.  From what I could see it seems to sit in the middle of the back
of the boat with a six gallon gas tank on either side of it.  I'm not
crazy about having a battery sitting between two six gallon gas tanks.  I'd
sooner see the battery isolated from the gas tanks.  Some batteries seem to
come in a plastic housing mine didn't.  One spark from the battery could
be a serious situation.  

What does a normal arrangement for portable gas tanks look like on most boats?

								Rob

    
    Rob,
    Most *open* boats do have the battery and tanks in close
    proximity without any problems. As you theorized it would
    not be a good idea in an enclosed area without some real
    good ventilation.
    
    The plastic box for the battery that you are referring to
    is cheap insurance and is available at any marina. I got
    mine at BOAT/US in Waltham for $4.88.
    
    Rick W.

    Rob,
    
    Some suggestions on mounting tanks/battery----screw the battery
    box to the floor and use large washers to keep the screw heads from
    pulling through the box in rough water. 
    I also saw one guy who installed "corner brackets", plastic things
    that form a right angle that keep the gas tank from sliding around.
    I have also seen them used to hold an ice chest in place (igloo
    cooler). I guess I'm just a nut on having everything secure before 
    I go bouncing over waves.
    
    Don
                  

    Re .10
    
    I bought a battery box.  I also bolted a metal strap to the deck,
    which has a strap running under it.  The strap then comes up over
    the batter-box cover and holds the whole unit in place.
    
    Lee

< Rrply to Notes 90.11-12 >

Thanks for your ideas and suggestions.  They sound like excellant
recommendations.

							Rob.

I recently got back off of vacation and found that someone has
taken the propellor to my engine.  As a result, my boating days 
are done for this year.  However, I have two six gallon tanks of
leaded gas with a 50:1 oil mixture to get rid of.  Earlier this
summer I had a 2 gallon tank of gas and oil to get rid of and still
have not found someplace that will take it.  Gas stations, dumps,
and the refuse center in Leominster will not take it.  The gas
in the six gallon tanks is only two weeks old.  Does anyone know
where I can get rid of it or would like to have it free of charge?
I think that you can even use it in chain saws.

How do you get rid of unused fuel at the end of the boating season?
People with large built in tanks must have an even more difficult 
problem of disposing of leftover gas at the end of the season?  I'm
open for suggestions.

							Rob.

    People with large in board tanks fill em for the winter and add
    some store and start. Works great and no wasted gas. You might
    try a pollution control company, they specialize in taking away
    spilled gas ect.
    
    Bruce

I've dumped 50:1 mix in my vehicle tanks for the past 20 years +. Never a
hint of a problem. Seems like the most reasonable solution to me, and I
can vouch for the fact that it works.

Art

    
    	In order of preference:-
    
    	1)	Give it to me
    
    	2)	Put it in a lawn mower, snow blower or other "seasonal
    		engine".  4 strokes seem to store better with a little
    		pre-mix in them.  When I was seriously into 2 stroke
    		motorcycles (don't ask, they were off-road) I couldn't
    		be bothered to keep separate cans, so everything ran
    		on golden spectro and seemed to last really well too.
    
    	3)	Put it in your car, I'm pretty sure that it can't hurt
    		the catalytic converter.
    
	Reg
    

    
       The boat yard were I store(d) my boat had a large tank into which
    you could pour used oil. Naturally, the yard probably went and sold
    that tankfull of oil to some salvager for a decent profit...
    
    
    Frank
    

    Rob,
    
    these folks are telling you straight. Definitely put fuel stabilizer
    in it and use it next year. NOTE. fill the tanks with fuel and
    the proper amount of fuel, after you have added the fuel 
    stabilizer and store them in a safe place. Preferably not indoors,
    possibly your garage. An empty tank, can become a bomb.
    
    
    
    jim.

< Reply to Notes 90.16-20 >
                           -< fuel stabilizer..... >-

Thanks for all of the replies.  I'll try storing the fuel.

							Rob.

    
    
    I am considering replacing the two 6 gallon removable gas 
    tanks on my outboard with one 16-18 gallon built-in unit. 
    
    I will take in to consideration a vent and fuel fill but
    would like to know; has anyone had done this before; did 
    you think it necessary to includ a bilge blower; and are 
    there any N.H or Mass. restrictions as to what kind, 
    polyethylene or metal, that should be used?
    
    Thanks,
    wayne 
    

    
      I would think that as long as you use a USCG approved tank, it
    shouldn't matter what it's made out of - it would just be personal
    preferance.
    
       As far as a bilge blower is concerned - you only NEED one if
    you have an inboard *engine* (regular inboard, I/O, or now, L-Drive.
    I believe you need a bilge blower if you have an inboard engine
    *regardless* of where your fuel tanks are!
    
    			Kenny_who_gets_his_new_Larson_in_7_days!

    
    re:22
    
    
        Wayne,
    
      If your going to install it yourself I'd check with your favorite
    insurance company. You know if a problem ever occured i'm sure those
    sweethearts would just love to look for a reason to avoid paying off
    a claim.
    
    Bob..
    

    I have a 1989 50hp Force Outboard on a 16 ft. Maxum with a built-in gas
    tank. I have had several boats before but never one with a built-in
    tank. Last year the engine ran rough and when I fueled it up and mixed
    in the gas the engine would stall and not run at all after only a
    couple of minutes on the water. When I finally got it going with the
    aid of starting fluid the engine would smoke like hell...I took apart
    the fuel lines and found that mostly oil was in them....after the oil
    went through and mixed with the gas the engine ran properly.....
    
    So this past winter I get the thing winterized and tell the story to
    the mechanic...he tells me to put in 3 gals of gas...the oil...and then
    3 more gals. so that it would mix properly... he also said the the
    carb. needed some adjusting...
    
    Anyhow this year after the first fill she's running fine....after the
    second fill...back to the same old sh*t.....I have tried every
    different combo for filling the tank and now wish I had the
    conventional carry-on tanks.... I plan to buy a 6 gal. tank and mix it
    prior as opposed to fueling it at the gas station.
    
    Anyone else with this problem....Any idea's
    
    Thanks,
    Kevin

    
    The fix is to pre-mix the oil with a small amount of gas.  Buy
    a small 1 or 2 gallon gas can.  Pour the pint of oil into the
    small can, add a gallon of gas, shake it up a bit, dump that into
    the boat's built in tank, and then add the rest of the fuel.
    
    FWIW, my boat also has a built in tank and no oil injection, but
    I've never had the problem you're seeing.  I just add the oil first,
    put the gas in at full force to help mix it, and let the bumpy trip
    to the lake do the rest.  I usually try to fill up close to home so
    that there's more time and more bumpy roads to do the mixing.  This
    is not the recommended method, but carrying a small mixing can on 
    board also creates it own set of problems...
    
    Rick W.

      Part of your problem may also be the oil. It is a fact that some
    brands (types) of oil mix more readily than others. You may want
    to try a different brand of oil.
    
       Whatever type of oil you use, premixing the oil with a small
    amount of fuel *before* you put it in the tank will cure the problem
    of incomplete mixing.
    
    					Kenny
    

    Have you checked the fuel tanks vent line.????
    
    JIm

I have a 22 gallon on-board tank and mix oil with gas. 
I run a 85 hp force and have never experiened this problem. I simply dump 
the oil in the tank before I fill it with gas. no problems encountered. I agree
with .27. Try using a different oil. I always use mercury quick silver oil.

Roger

 

    Any experts on fuel gauges in here?   Mine reads normally from full
    down to about 3/4.  From that point on down it starts bouncing between 
    zero and where it should be reading.   Given that it's fuel-level
    dependent, it sounds like a flaky sending unit rather than an
    electrical problem (gauges or wiring).   I'm presuming that the fuel
    sender is just a variable resistance and the whole circuit is just a
    dumb ohmmeter.  Right?  Wrong?   If so I can probably verify the
    problem by sticking an ohmmeter on the sending unit terminals and
    watching for the bounce.
    
    If it's a bum sender, are replacements all about the same?  The Boat/US
    store just carries two - big and small (determined by tank depth).
    
    Last question, the current sender is screwed to the top of tank using
    some kind of sealant around the flange.  What is the proper stuff to
    use in a gasoline-contact situation?  Silicone?  3M 5200?  Other?

    on the replacement sender... ????who made the guages.. they should
    have a replacement.
    
    3M5200 should seal it.
    
    just be real careful screwing around with sending units, like
    static elec. and tool sparking..
    
    JIm.

    My gauge was very eratic being that it was 25 years old.  I took it out
    and cleaned it when I had the tank out.  I bought a new gasket at the
    parts shop at Wilderness marine.  The hole where the sending unit
    mounts is pretty standard.  I don't believe that I used any sealant
    as there wasn't any there when I took the old gasket off but it's
    probably a good idea.  Sending units are pretty standard and adjustable
    so you can adjust the length of the float arm to be the same as your
    current unit.  Mine's working fine now but I never go out on the ocean
    where I would want to make sure that I always knew that my gauges were
    working correctly.  Given a choice, replace the unit rather than take a
    chance.
    Wayne

    I just got back from Marine Gear where I saw a tube of Permatex on
    sale and it reminded me that that is what I used on the new gasket
    which I bought to install my sending unit.  Permatex remains flexible
    and is impervious to gas and diesel.  You can buy it in a small tube
    at any auto parts store.  It also helps to hold the gasket in the
    proper position during re-assembly.
    Wayne

    re: .31, .32
    
    That's why I asked - the replacement units give every indication of
    being universal. But their minimum/maximum resistance is not
    adjustable so I was wondering if it is a standard.
    

    My gas guage is messed up again.  I replace the sending unit two years
    ago and the guage last year.  The tank is a 60 gal alum mounted under
    the cockpit deck.  Is this normal?  How often do you have to replace
    the sending unit?
    
    Gordon
    

    My original sending unit is 26 years old and works perfectly.  I took
    it out two years ago and cleaned it up while I had the tank out.  I
    would take it out, clean it with something like a brake cleaner or carb
    cleaner and then test the leads with an ohm meter.  The sending unit is 
    nothing but a variable resistor.  As you swing the float, the meter
    should change readings.  I'm not sure if it goes from zero to infinity
    but the idea is that the reading on the meter should move smoothly as
    you move the float.  If that checks out ok, I would check all my wires
    leading to the gauge with the ohm meter.  If you reused your old wires, 
    you may have an open in one of them that may show up when you move them
    around.  If they are questionable, replace them.  You can also test
    your gauge outside of the system but I don't know how to do that. 
    Is this an intermittent problem?
    Wayne  

    How is the sending/fuel unit wired so sparks are not created IN the
    fuel tank?  Perhaps the engineers who designed the fuel/sending unit
    count on the gas/air mix in the tank on being too rich to ignite?  But
    I can't believe they would count on that.
    
    Jeff

re .37

	What did you NOT understand in the replies to exactly this question
when you asked it in the 4wd conference a short while ago ?

	Reg

    "What did I not understand".  Somehow, although the replies in 4 WD
    DISCUSSED the subject at lengh, I did not catch the bottom line, 
    which was how are explosions avoided?
    
    Obviously, if I had understood the answer I would not have asked the
    question again, in a somewhat different context.
    
    Jeff
    

    
      Jeff - I have thought and thought about this. The way the sending
    units are made, it should be possible for there to sparks, possibly
    even all the time as a function of the way the device works. The only
    explanation I can come up with as to why there is no explosion is due
    to the extremely rich fuel vapors within the tank.
    
      I'd sure like to hear some answer to this.
    
    				Kenny

    Kenny, it you will refer back to .38 and then to the 4WD section on fuel
    tanks maybe you can figure out why there is no explosion from the data
    in that string.  I didn't manage to figure out why.  There is alot of
    discussion there but no firm conclusion which I can see.
    
    Jeff

    
    Jeff - I have to laugh at this all. Apparently, somebody figured it out
    maybe 50-100 years ago and it just worked. Everybody copies it and so
    nobody has worried about it since. I personally think there is no
    explosion due to the rich vapor mixture.
    
    				Kenny

    It works is not enough of an answer for me because I want to MESS with 
    my fuel gauge installation and if I don't understand why it doesn't
    blow up I may get an explosion due to ignorance on my part.  I find
    it hard t believe that the designers are COUNTING on too rich a mix
    for an explosion, you know Murphy.... if there is a possibility
    something will happen, eventually it will.
    
    Jeff

    
    Probably because its a slide arangement which means its a make
    before break on the resistor loops so at no point is it actualy 
    a broken circuit (no sparks) 
    
    also its only max voltage at one end of the resistor
    
    
    _+vcc
    _
    _
    _
    _|____  slide covers more than one coil
    _|     to gauge
    _
     0v
    
    ^
    | resitor coils
    
    
	my guess 
    the other reg

    Ok on the make before break when its working normally.  What about
    Murphy?  A broken resister/slide assy in the tank?  Unless the 
    applied voltage/current is VERY low a spark could result.  Even
    then it doesn't take much of a spark to ignite gas.  Well, maybe
    its a combination of low amp/voltage and an overrich mixture.
    
    To the noter who commented on the answer being in 4 WD, maybe you
    could refresh my memory and paraphrase the answer here?
    
    Jeff

	Well, we don't exactly  "havta"  explain it  - -  and we'd be guessing
anyway (-:   Now the new monkey wrench in the works is that you say you want to
muck with it, but need to know enough to be sure you don't blow things (& self)up.

	Here's a few guesses, FWIW  -  disclaimer;  don't muck with it !

	The  "electricals"  (variable resistor, etc.)  are probably sealed
from the  "mechanicals"  (float, float arm, etc.)  via some sort of a "diaphragm".
 This wouldn't have been difficult with materials available around the turn
of the century.....easier now with modern materials that also last longer.
BTW, aren't "in tank" fuel guages relatively recent ?

	There's some junk in my memory about the way explosion starts - plasma
theory, or some such....  anyway, just to get the first few molecules of oxygen
to combine with the first few molecules of (whichever the most volatile component
of the fuel is)  takes some minimum amount of energy.  Even with a gross wire
wound variable resistor and a slider that jumps off every time the vehicle
hits a bump it should be possible to put so much resistance in the circuit that
it just  CANNOT  deliver enough energy to start the explosion.   For reference
think about the ignition system that typically puts out some tens of thousands of
volts (though very little current),  it takes very little added resistance to
reduce that "big, fat blue spark"  to  a  "wimpy little orange flicker"  that
won't ignite an ideal fuel mix  (lets ignore, for the moment that the mix is
compressed at anywhere between seven or twelve atmospheres, which requires higher
energy densities).   The circuit is probably a voltmeter to the slider of a
variable resistor across 12 volts (OK, 14.7 or so (-:).  The variable resistor
is probably some large number K_ohms, the voltmeter probably many times that.

My guess is that there is very little current flowing through a circuit that
has very low inductance in series or capacitance in parallel, therefore when (if)
the circuit breaks at the slider there will be a microscopic release of
electrical energy (by design).

	Its all located in a very oxygen poor environment anyway.


CONCLUSION:	Three things preventing big boom:   Isolation, circuit design
		and poor fuel/air mix.

	......but like I said, this is all guesswork - and you really shouldn't
muck with it based on any of this.

	Reg

    I didn't know automotive style senders were used in marine
    tanks.  My boat has an aluminum Florida Tank (manufacturer)
    with a Tempo float.  This float turns a magnet under the
    surface of the mounting.  The electrical sender is outside
    the tank, and is turned by the magnet.  In some applications,
    when the tank is installed under a clear deck plate, the
    magnet just turns a pointer.

    My $0.02...

    My application is in a truck.  I don't WANT to muck with it, I just
    want to fix it.  The original owner tore the wiring out of the 
    truck, (REALLY mucked with it) and now I am trying to get it to work.
    I have replaced the sending unit with a new one... it reads now, but
    with a GROSS error.  Since it is an absolute B..... to get at the
    sending unit... pull the fuel tank etc. I want to do an external fix.
    Such as hook a variable resister in series with the sending unit lead
    and dial around various resistances until (if possible) I tweak the
    reading in to something more accurate.  My unit does not use an
    internal magnet,  (hmmmm internal magnet, design change, wonder why)
    maybe too many explosions with the resistor type?  Mine has the slider
    resistor type with a spade electrical terminal to the top of the fuel
    tank.  In order to muck with an external fix I need to have an idea of
    how explosions are avoided.  Now I have an idea.  The local auto
    jockeys know how to put in a sending unit but I doubt they know the
    theory behind how the sending unit fuel gauge works in detail.  
    Boat/car.... basically the same type of system.  Thats how this 
    discussion can appear in a boating string.
    
    Thanks,  Jeff
    
    

    re .-1
    
    It may not be the sending unit, maybe it's the guage.  If the previous
    owner really mucked up the wiring, then the guage maybe incorrectly
    wired or blown.  Hook the wires up to another guage and see what
    happens.  This was my problem in the boats a couple years ago, the
    sending unit was bad and the guage was incorrectly connected and had
    water in it.  I replace the guage and worked ok until this past
    weekend.
    
    Gordon
    

	Having guesculated (guess/speculated, not guess/calculated) 
wrong again - here's another clue;  FWIW, etc

	I received yet another Overton's bikini and discount marine 
catalogue yesterday.   On page #100 they list some VDO gauges, one is 
described as    "Fuel Gauge (240-33 ohms)....   "   From this I'd 
guess that it is intended for use with a tank float unit that varies 
its resistance between 240 and 33 ohms  (full to empty ?  probably)  
and the gauge's guts is that of an ohm-meter (just a guesculation).
On the opposite page they show a couple of "sending units"  (weird 
name, if you think about it)  but the only spec numbers on those are 
for tank depth, 11-17 inches or 17-25 inches.  So, if you can pick the 
brains of the local NAPA parts counter guy you might be able to get 
the resistance spec for the "sender" unit of your truck.  If not, try a 
shop manual or Mitchell's at the local library.  The gauge should 
check out easy enough, just get the closest value resistors from radio 
shack and measure their resistance to ground, one shoul be  "full"  and 
the other one  "empty"  (or E & F).  If the gauge is good and the 
"sender" is almost good and you really want to avoid changing it.....

	Errrrr,  Ummmmm,  I forgot......

	Find an EE type who knows about this stuff, or someone who 
thinks they do (-:    get 'em to build you a fancy little resistor 
network (not the political kind).

	Reg

PS	bikinis are on  pp 134-137 and a few more on  p 144

    Jeff,  when you say that the gauge doesn't work, what do you mean?  It
    doesn't move at all or it moves when it feels like it?  If the prior
    owner just threw a new float in there without adjusting the arm for the
    depth of the tank, then I wouldn't believe that you could ever "fix"
    the problem externally.  If the arm was too short you would read empty
    on the gauge before you were really empty no matter what type of
    external resistor network you might design.  Dropping the tank
    shouldn't be that much work.  They usually are only supported by two
    straps.  Also, I have seen some older trucks and cars that have an
    access plate in the trunk to get to the sending unit and fuel line.
    You might be able to do it without removing the tank.
    Wayne

    Have to drop tank.  No access from the top.  The gauge reads full until 
    the tank is about 1/3 empty, then it plummets to empty when the tank is
    still half full.  A local garage put in a new sending unit....
    supposedly the right one for the truck and that problem was immediate.
    Prior to that I got a full reading all the time.... on the old sending
    unit.
    
    Sounds as if the arm of the sending unit is randomly bent.... wrong,
    doesn't it?
    
    Tx. for the help.  Ok on the resistor network.  I HATE pulling that
    tank!  Rusted straps, heavy greasy dangerous tank, THEN I have to get
    it back in right.  Almost worth staying with 'sticking the tank' which
    is what I do now.  Or... just wait till the guage plummets, then I know
    I have a half tank and I refill it.
    
    Jeff

	Moved by moderator
    	------------------
    
              <<< VICKI::SIE$DATA1:[NOTES$LIBRARY]BOATS.NOTE;1 >>>
                                -< Powerboats >-
================================================================================
Note 1137.1                       Gettin' Short                           1 of 1
ZEKE::RAWNSLEY                                       25 lines  30-DEC-1993 12:48
                             -< STUMPED ON A CLIP >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
        I need a little advice.  I'm trying to take the motor off my boat.
    the motor is a 115 Merc outboard.  I have to replace one of the pistons
    and the problem I'm having is trying to disconnect the linkage for the
    gas from the engine.  Where the linkage goes into the motor on the
    left side is a small clip that holds the linkage in place.  When the
    linkage goes through the clip, there is also a bushing the linkage goes
    through.  I can unclip the plastic clip from the linkage, but my
    problem is I can't slip the bushing out all the way, to disengage them.
    
        There are no screws/bolts holding this clip in place.  Is there a
    trick to getting the linkage out.
    
        The dealer wants $1,500 to repair the motor.  I went through this
    before, about three years ago.  The number#3 piston keeps burning out.
    The dealer, not the one I used three years ago (now out of business, of
    course) said the last dealer replaced the piston only, not correcting
    the problem thats causing the piston to burn out, leaking carbs.
    
        I told the dealer I wanted to replace the piston myself, and he
    said that was no problem, "anyone with a little knowledge of motors
    could do it".  I've rebuilt about six cars engines in the past, and I'm
    not worried about doing the Merc, but that damn clip has me stumped
    
        If you can help, please let me know, only three months left till
    open water.

    Where can I get the best deal on a new gas tank for my Sea-Ray?
    I have looked through several magazines expecting to find
    advertisements with no luck and the same with this notes file.
    
    John

John...

Do you have access to an Overton's Discount Marine catalog?  The latest one has
3 pages of gas tanks (pp. 47-49) in polyethylene and aluminum, ranging in sizes
from 6-gallon portables to 55-gallon "belly tanks."

...Roger...

	May be old news as I *think* I've heard it before, but probably
bears repeating...

	Apparently, when portable gas tanks are placed in the back of pickup
trucks with bedliners the friction between the liner and the tank can create
static electricity powerful enough to cause an explosion. It's suggested that
the tanks be placed on the ground away from the vehicle and people while
refueling.

	Also, a Cable show about classic wooden boats mentioned a few refueling
ideas that I hadn't always kept in mind, although they don't apply heavily in
my situation. My boat is usually on the trailer when getting gas.

	While refueling:

		Close all windows and hatches.
		Get everyone OFF the boat.
		Let the attendant refuel the boat (I found this one kinda odd,
			better to blow him up, maybe??)

Boating season's here! BION!

Rick
		

    Its been several years since I have used portable gas tanks...
    
    I have a couple of OMC metal gas tanks.  I was wondering how these are
    vented during operation.  Do you leave the tank cap on tight or do you
    loosen it slightly during operation?
    
    Thanks, Mark

Mark,

	The caps on the tanks should be on tight, both during use and
storage. However, the vent screws *on* the caps should be loose (up position,
I think) while in use, but closed tight during storage.

Rick