| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 56.1 | See a RV Dealership | MYVAX::ONEILL | | Thu Jun 23 1988 17:28 | 15 |
|
Mike
See note 55.2 address for surge brake parts.
To my knowlege boat trailers do not come with electric brakes.
I checked into this while buy my boat this year. I have the
hookups on my truck for my camping trailer that has electric
brakes.
For electric brakes parts or axle with electric brakes, get
in contact with a camping trailer dealership.
Mike
|
| 56.2 | | BAGELS::DILSWORTH | Keith Dilsworth DTN 226-5566 | Fri Jun 24 1988 10:46 | 9 |
| Mike,
I just had surge breaks put on my trailer two weeks ago. It is
a one day job and cost $450. It seems a tad high but if you
tow with a forien vehicle requiring brakes over 1,000 pounds.
The place I used was Spec Trailers in Boxboro.
keith
|
| 56.3 | Related but off-beat a little... | ROGER::GAUDET | Ski Nautique | Fri Jun 24 1988 13:28 | 9 |
| For the 1988 model year, Correct Craft has put surge brakes on their
trailers as STANDARD equipment. Of course, the trailers are now
$500.00 more too. I wonder if this is the start of a trend? I've
heard comments that CC trailers are overkill...capable of handling
twice as much as the boat they're intended to carry (Ski Nautique
trailers are rated above 4500#, the boat weighs 2600ish # ). Better
safe than sorry, I guess...
...Roger...
|
| 56.4 | :-^) :-^) :-^) , etc. | MENTOR::REG | Pointing fingers often backfire | Fri Jun 24 1988 14:14 | 9 |
| re .3 The extra ~1900 # of spare capacity is probably there
in case the owner doesn't have room in the car/truck for his/her....
E G O
|
| 56.5 | :-) :-) | TOMCAT::SUTER | Water is meant to ski on! | Fri Jun 24 1988 14:28 | 9 |
|
Re: .4
At least the extra 1900 lbs doesn't need to be
used for a......
SPARE MOTOR!
|
| 56.6 | State by State tow Regulations | MYVAX::ONEILL | | Fri Jun 24 1988 15:27 | 30 |
|
Here is some general information that was published in the May
issue of Trailer Boats. The information is on state by state
towing regulations.
State Tow Speed Width Height Brakes at lbs
NH 65 8'6" 13'6" 3000 lbs
Mass 55 8'6" 13'6" 10,000 lbs
Maine 65 8'6" 13'6" 3000 lbs
Conn. 65 8'6" 13'6" 3000 lbs
Rhode I 55 8'6" 13'6" 4000 lbs
Vermont 65 8'6" 13'6" 3000 lbs or
if trailer exceeds
40% of tow vehicle
NY 55 8'0" 13'6" 1000 lbs
Colorad 65 8'6" 13'0" 6000 lbs
Calf 65 8'6" 14'0" 3000 lbs
Oregon 65 8'0" 14'0" 3000 lbs
Wash 60 8'6" 14'0" 3000 lbs (see VT.)
FL 65 8'6" 13'6" no weight listed
So if your weight is over # lbs your trailer by law requires
brakes. Note that Mass is the only state in the Union that has
the highest trailer weight (10,000). A good rule to follow is
the one that Vermont has, if the trailer is more than 40% of
the tow vehicle, then the trailer should have brakes.
Mike
|
| 56.7 | I better stay in Mass. | BINKLY::SMITH | | Fri Jun 24 1988 15:49 | 6 |
|
So, since NY has a 1,000lb limit, if I want to go to Lake George,
in New York for the weekend I have to get brakes put on my trailer
before I go. I think I might have to skip Lake George.
Mike
|
| 56.8 | Question | TOOK::SWEET | Capt. Codfish...Jeffries Ledge or Bust | Fri Jun 24 1988 17:17 | 7 |
| Do these limits apply to the state in which the trailer is registered?
ie. my trailer weight is close to 5000lbs and is registered in mass,
can I legally trailer in NH or RI without brakes since I am registered
in Mass?
Bruce
|
| 56.9 | Have a safe Summer | MYVAX::ONEILL | | Thu Jun 30 1988 11:32 | 14 |
|
I did some double checking, your trailer falls under the state
regulations that it is registered in. So if your trailer is
registered in NH and the trailer weight is over 3000 lbs, you
must have brakes on the trailer. If your trailer is registered
in Mass. then your trailer falls under the Mass. laws. Currently
Mass. will allow you to have 10,000 lbs before requiring brakes.
So you can take your Mass. registered trailer with 4500 lbs
with no brakes into other New England States.
As with everything a little common sense goes along way. It
easy to pull a trailer, but how easy is it to stop.
Mike
|
| 56.10 | Wrong Info in "Trailer Boats" | USRCV1::FRASCH | | Thu Jun 30 1988 15:37 | 6 |
| Somehow, "Trailer Boats" got the wrong info. NY has a 3500# limit
before brakes are required. Its is also the limit of a "Class-2"
hitch. In any event, you are governed by the state in which your
registration is valid. (surge brakes are allowed in NY)
Don
|
| 56.11 | Trailering out of state | HARISN::ONDOVIC | | Fri Jul 01 1988 16:52 | 6 |
| I just registered my trailer in MA yesterday. The guy said that
before I trailer out of the state, I should have the trailer inspected
at a regular inspection station. He did not mention anything about
special brakes.
Larry
|
| 56.12 | What sticker???? | NRADM::WILSON | You have my word on it... | Fri Jul 01 1988 17:01 | 9 |
|
Larry,
The Mass state inspection sticker is required whether you leave
the state or not. It is supposed to be inspected yearly just
like a car, but I think very few people ever actually do so
because the sticker is supposed to be carried with your registration
and not displayed on the trailer.
Rick W.
|
| 56.13 | What Rule? | TOMCAT::SUTER | Water is meant to ski on! | Tue Jul 05 1988 10:23 | 11 |
|
re: .12
>> Very few people ever actually do so (get a trailer inspection)
I'll say.... Here's my ignorance again... I've lived in
Mass most of my life and didn't realize a trailer had to be
inspected! Oh well...
Rick
|
| 56.14 | I dunno? | TOOK::SWEET | Capt Codfish...Looking for Mr. Tuna | Tue Jul 05 1988 14:25 | 4 |
| Add me to the ingnorance is bliss list...what inspection?????
Bruce
|
| 56.15 | Any Words From The Voices of Experience... | HAZEL::YELINEK | WITHIN 10 | Tue Jul 12 1988 16:03 | 16 |
| I've been told that the 'so-called' surge brakes , because they
don't operate like the brakes on the tow vehicle, have a somewhat
erratic behavior when in operation. i.e. they're not hydralic in
nature and when they sense a slowing of the tow vehicle they engage...
but since the 'braking action' is different they don't afford the
best ease of handling as compared to electric brakes or hydralic
trailer brakes tied into the tow vehicles system. Anyone care to
comment here.?
I need a trailer to haul my great big beautiful boat to and from
the mooring area twice (2) a year...about a 5 mile trip over back
roads. Something tells me that brakes are cheap insurance in order
to protect my expensive toy...but do they work well (surge brakes)
and are they suggested for the load of ~3000 lbs. for 5 miles, 2
times a year.
/MArk
|
| 56.16 | Oh, and they can have lock out solenoids for backing up | MENTOR::REG | Pointing fingers often backfire | Tue Jul 12 1988 16:54 | 40 |
| re .15 On a new trailer you might find that surge brakes are
a relatively (to everything else you're spending, for the boat, etc.)
inexpensive option. For two 5 mile trips a year you may find that
even having a trailer at all is a very expensive option, i.e. you
could probably have a marina haul it to and from the lake for you
pretty cheap, or have them package two years worth of hauling into
your purchase deal, or some other arrangement. {Yes, boats CAN
live through the winter without trailers under them.}
In a moment of weakness last summer I said, "Sure" when someone
asked me to tow a Tailor Rental fork lift truck on a tandem axle trailer
with surge brakes, for him. The fork lift was a little over 3 tons,
the trailer another ton, so we had over 4 tons on the hook. I didn't
have any problems with it at all, it was MUCH easier to stop than
my ~1 ton boat and single axle trailer without brakes. I didn't
detect any of the "hunting" that you alluded to, I believe that
this was because they were properly dampened. I'm still considering
(procrastinating) surge brakes for my single axle trailer, mainly
because I do a couple of trips through Franconia Notch to some very
hilly parts of Vermont every year, I just don't seem to be able
to overcome the cost obstacle {I know, its less than the deductable
on my insurance, how can I NOT do it ?}.
Anyway, as I understand it, surge brakes are a dynamic solution,
i.e. they are applied with a force that is some function of how
hard the trailer is pushing on the tow vehicle. This seems to
automatically compensate for load variations in trailer and tow
vehicle as well as braking force applied to the pedal and the gradient
that the rig is on at the time. Electric brakes seem to need setting
up and testing for every load change and its ANOTHER set of wiring
that gets exposed to the risk of becoming entangled and ripped lose when
backing around corners where one has to jack-knife the trailer.
Hydraulics tied into the tow vehicle sounds great, but it too is
probably not self compensating for load and other conditions.
I'll go for surge brakes next time for sure, NO tow vehicle
mods, nothing to hook-up/un-couple or adjust/balance.
R
|
| 56.17 | Why Brakes at All ??? | USRCV1::FRASCH | | Tue Jul 12 1988 16:55 | 10 |
| For 5 miles twice a year, why not drive slow and forget the brakes???
Surge are NOT safe. Many states have outlawed them. They work like
you said, they sense a slow down in the tow vehicle and apply braking.
However, ther react the same way when you try to back up uphill
or over a bump. Its impossible to back a surge brake rig over a
curb (or similar bump)!!! If you absolutly have to have breaks,
surge are the cheapest, but you have NO control and they are mor
pain than they are worth.
Don
|
| 56.18 | | HAZEL::YELINEK | WITHIN 10 | Tue Jul 12 1988 17:11 | 4 |
| Hummmmmmm....... 2 conflicting opinions
50/50
Lets hear more out there
|
| 56.19 | Don't bother.... | TOOK::SWEET | Capt Codfish...Looking for Mr. Tuna | Tue Jul 12 1988 17:17 | 11 |
| I trailer 5k lbs with a full size blazer and no brakes. Yes I admit
my stopping distance is increased but everything i read says salt
water and brake pads don't mix. For five miles and twice a year
I could not justify the cost of a trailer.
Some palces like tailer rental rent trailers for boats on the order
or 100 bucks a day, put it on blocks for the winter and you are
all set. Put the bucks into a toy you will enjoy...plus if you
live in mass the insurance and registration on the trailer is
also gonna cost you.
Bruce
|
| 56.20 | Nope, I still say, "Yes" to surge. | MENTOR::REG | Pointing fingers often backfire | Tue Jul 12 1988 17:25 | 21 |
| re .17 See title of .16, I had forgotten to add it in the main
message.
The lock out solenoid is wired to the tow vehicle's back-up
lights (the trailer's back up lights should be too). When the tow
vehicle is put in reverse the solenoid blocks the hydraulic line
between the surge actuator (the trailer's master cylinder) and the
lines to the wheel cylinders, hence one CAN back up over curbs.
I don't know why we didn't have a problem with that Taylor Rental
rig, we backed up a very steep gravel driveway with it, it WAS over
4 tons and we certainly didn't have my back-up lights connected
to anything, maybe it just had very hard dampening ? dunno.
My TOTALLY SUBJECTIVE impression is still that they work well
(sample size of one; they CAN work well, they don't necessarily
hunt or oscillate) and that I will almost certainly have them on
any future trailer, maybe my current one.
Reg
|
| 56.21 | Another vote for surge brakes | NWACES::HEINSELMAN | | Wed Jul 13 1988 09:25 | 9 |
| I have surge brakes on my boat trailer and I like them. The trailer is
a 5000 pound gross wight, tandem axle unit. I pull with a Dodge
Ramcharger and find the trailer to be very well behaved in all braking
situations. I have trailered the boat in the mountains of the West,
throughout New England, and cross country. The surge brakes do work
and work well! They require no vehicle mods and won't short when
dunked in water. Yes, they have their quirks when backing and on long,
steep mountain downgrades; but, the alternative of no brakes is NOT an
option as far as I am concerned.
|
| 56.22 | Apples and oranges? | BTO::JPETERS | John Peters, DTN 266-4391 | Wed Jul 13 1988 09:35 | 17 |
| In this discussion I think I detect a need for making a distinction
between sorts of surge brakes. My trailer has [nonfunctional] surge
brakes that are actuated by a hydraulic brake cylinder located in
the tongue feeding slave cylinders in the two rear wheels.
I think that there also exist electrically operated brakes that
sense when the taillights come on.
Which type is each of you discussing?
In looking for repair parts for my brakes, I found that you can
get two sorts of brake arrangements for the wheels. One is
mechanically arranged so the shoes don't work when the wheels turn
backwards, eliminating difficulty in backing the trailer. I guess
that the solenoid mentioned in a reply above addresses the same
function, or was that part of an electric system?
J
|
| 56.23 | | SMAUG::LINDQUIST | | Wed Jul 13 1988 10:26 | 16 |
| RE: .17
�� Many states have outlawed them.
I don't believe this to be a true statement.
The May issue of TRAILER BOATS list towing regulations for
the fifty states. It make no mention of surge brakes being
illegal in any state.
I have surge brakes on my trailer and are quite happy with
them. I bought the trailer from the manufacturer, and when
I picked it up they gave me quite a bit of advice. When
the trailer is used in salt water, they recommend cleaning
and lubricating parts of the mechanism every 3-4 months.
(That was in Florida, in New England, you can probably use
a longer interval in the winter.)
|
| 56.24 | I CONCUR! | ODIXIE::WILKINSON | Melted Snow Skier | Wed Jul 13 1988 15:51 | 5 |
| Why put brakes on a trailer used 2 times a year for a total of 10
miles? Save yoyr money. Drive slowly and cautiously.
Nelson
|
| 56.25 | what about... | HAZEL::YELINEK | WITHIN 10 | Wed Jul 13 1988 15:55 | 6 |
| But as a friend of mine said...
Wanted to take that SINGLE trip up north trailering the boat
WOULD warrant the brakes.
MArk
|
| 56.26 | Recommend surge brakes | GIDDAY::SADLER | I'd rather be skiing.... | Wed Jul 13 1988 18:04 | 10 |
| Trailers I have towed with surge brakes have defintely performed
better under braking etc than non fitted trailers. The ones that
I have uesed have been actuated by a hydraulic cylinder fitted to
the tongue. They have a lever fitted so that the brakes can be put
on when disconnecting the trailer and for reversing the is a bar
that is swung across to stop the tongue activating the brakes. I
would recommend then to any one who tows on hilly county, tows long
distance, or has a heavy rig.
.jim.
|
| 56.27 | Surge brakes are great, stupidity not allowed. | REMEDY::KOPEC | Spaceman Spiff | Fri Jul 29 1988 10:31 | 20 |
| Through a lot of camping in my younger days, and a move where Roger
towed my belongings in a rather large u-haul with surge brakes,
I agree that they are fine. As far as I know, all surge brakes work
by using the forward force on the tongue to generate hydraulic pressure
(they basically put the master cylinder in the coupler).
Electric brakes take a fair amount of work to set up properly, but
are useful for larger trailers that do a lot of highway travel (the
manual activation lever can be used to damp "sway"). Surge brakes
are about as simple as you can get.
Any surge brake worth buying will have a reverse lockout;
unfortunately, I didn't know that the time we had the u-haul.. roger
darn near burned his clutch out backing that thing up the driveway...
then I called my dad and he said "Oh, did you engage the lockout?"
Live and learn. As Reg mentioned, some/many surge brakes have an
electric lockout wired to the backup light circuit.
...tek
|
| 56.28 | Reminds me of a time... | GIDDAY::SADLER | I'd rather be skiing.... | Mon Aug 01 1988 01:11 | 9 |
| Reminds me of a li'l trip a friend and I did towing a horse float fitted
with surge brakes. Silly us left the manual parke brake on a little
bit. After a few miles of this we had a set of smoking brakes, red
hot wheels, and a horse that wanted to be somewhere else. Lesson
number II with surge brakes is to make sure the parke brake lever
isn't in hte way (lesson I is trying to reverse without the brakes
locked out).
.jim.
|
| 56.29 | Surge brake problems???? help.... | AIMHI::SJOHNSON | | Wed Jul 07 1993 15:31 | 26 |
| We have a trailer w/ surge brakes that we've had for 4 seasons now. We
use it to haul our 235 BAJA all over the place. We mostly go in fresh
water - but about 3 - 4 times a year we go in the ocean. This past
weekend after we put the boat in the ocean - when my husband went to
get the trailer to pull the boat out (backing out of parking space) the
brakes on the trailer decided to lock up on one side (going in forward).
Once we backed up, drove, backed up, drove, etc... we got them to
unlock temporarily - then hauled the boat back to our lake, backed the
boat up into the lake - drove 2 miles home, let the trailer sit for a
day, put WD40 on the brakes (they seemed fine). Then we had the same
locking problem as described above - till the boat was back on the
trailer to drive back to NH. It was fine on the 3 hr ride home w/ the
boat on the trailer. It seems the weight of the trailer stops the
brake from locking up.
Questions: has anyone ever had this happen? Should we be doing more
than just lake rinces after going into the ocean? Is there yearly
maintenance that should be done to maintain these surge brakes? Or, is
this a fault in the brake line not caused by weather/water?
Thanks in advance,
Sonia (who isn't too technical when it comes to brakes).
Haven't had any problems w/ the brakes on the trailer - in fact they
were stopping our van (92 Chevy Astro) when applied - they're very good
brakes!
|
| 56.30 | Yup, summats broke - time to change the fluid too. | ASDS::BURGESS | Waiting for ZEUS to come | Wed Jul 07 1993 16:36 | 45 |
| re <<< Note 56.29 by AIMHI::SJOHNSON >>>
> -< Surge brake problems???? help.... >-
> day, put WD40 on the brakes (they seemed fine). Then we had the same
where did you put WD40 ? "on the brakes" linings, shoes,
drums, cylinder rods, springs, etc. ???
> locking problem as described above - till the boat was back on the
> trailer to drive back to NH. It was fine on the 3 hr ride home w/ the
> boat on the trailer. It seems the weight of the trailer stops the
> brake from locking up.
I think you mean the weight of the boat - on the trailer, etc.
In any case it might be related or the inertia (mass) of the boat
might just mask a slight locking.
> Questions: has anyone ever had this happen? Should we be doing more
> than just lake rinces after going into the ocean? Is there yearly
> maintenance that should be done to maintain these surge brakes? Or, is
> this a fault in the brake line not caused by weather/water?
Maybe not an annual maintenance, but you're probably about due
for a brake fluid change around now. Its hygroscopic (or some such
word) which means it picks up moisture (humidity) from the air, its
the dissolved moisture in brake fluid that leads to a lot of brake
component failures (corrosion).
> Thanks in advance,
> Sonia (who isn't too technical when it comes to brakes).
> Haven't had any problems w/ the brakes on the trailer - in fact they
> were stopping our van (92 Chevy Astro) when applied - they're very good
> brakes!
Ooops, this sounds EXACTLY like a problem to me (-:
If the trailer brakes stay on long enough and hard enough to
slow the tow vehicle something is almost certainly very wrong !
I would start looking around for a broken or collapsed spring or surge
damper (whatever your particular design uses) in the surge actuator.
This may be another symptom of the lock-up while backing problem.
Reg
|
| 56.31 | It happens... | RIPPLE::CORBETTKE | | Thu Jul 08 1993 18:31 | 15 |
| re. .29
It's the salt water!! I had it happen going down the freeway where
both wheels were smoking and fried the brake shoes before I could get
to an off ramp. After talking with a mechanic he said to disconnect
the line at the surge piston which allowed me to get home, but is not a
long term fix. i.e., you're using only the auto brakes which may not be
enough in certain circumstances.
The solution is: (1) to not put it in salt water. (2) Use a sling
instead of the ramp if there is one. (3) Repair brakes every 3-4 years.
Or, if your trailer is not a bunk type and your boat sits just right,
you can roll it off the back without burying the wheels.
|
| 56.32 | | SALEM::NORCROSS_W | | Thu Jul 08 1993 20:16 | 2 |
| They sell a flushing attachment for the brakes so you can use a garden
hose when you get home.
|
| 56.33 | thank you!!! | AIMHI::SJOHNSON | | Fri Jul 09 1993 10:42 | 6 |
| Wow! Thanks for all the replies. We had just bled the break lines as
Reg suggested - but we thought it went further than that as it sounds
like it is.
Thanks again,
Sonia
|
| 56.34 | What about "Air Brakes"?........ | BERN01::GOODEJ | Mr Dragon | Fri Feb 04 1994 09:27 | 54 |
|
This looks like an interesting subject. I have a some info to share
and I need some advice.
Here's the info...
I currently tow a 1.2tonne (2600lbs?) caravan (=trailer) which has
"surge" breaks. If I hit the auto breaks hard, the 'van breaks lock
up and I leave plenty of rubber (from the 'van tyres!). These breaks
do a great job AS LONG AS THE AUTO BREAKS WORK and as long as the
trailer doesn't weigh considerably more than the truck. In a situation
where the car starts to slide (eg. towing on snow) these breaks are not
so good - not enough force is exerted on the "tongue" to pull the
breaks on. Towing up a steep snow-covered pass it not too difficult as
the 'van tends to hold you back and keeps you on the road (although you
mustn't take the hairpins to quickly!). Coming down the other side,
however, it a nightmare as the 'van is always pushing you on and its
breaks are not helping to hold you back. I appreciate that towing in
slippery conditions is not too big an issue for you boating guys!
In the UK, they recommend their (surge brakes) use for trailers up to
85% the weight of the car. I think they're legal up to 100%. Here in
Switzerland the situation is similar. Currently our Nissan Terrano is
allowed to trail up to its kerb weight (1.8 tonnes) with surge breaks.
Completely unbreaked trailers up to 0.5 tonnes are allowed.
Here's my questions....
We're looking to buy (in the next 12 months) our first boat. I had
a look around the London boat show and among things like Sea-Rays,
Bayliners, etc a Sealine 240 caught my eye. This is a 24'8" weekend
sports cruiser which weighs in at 2.1 tonnes (according to the makers
catalogue). Allowing +10% for error / "little extras", 10 or 20% to
load it with gear / fuel / water etc, +X for a trailer, I'm assuming
that it comes out somewhere around 3 tonnes (around 6600lbs).
We've decided to lease (company car) a new 3.0L Mitsubishi Pajero
(Shogun) to handle towing to/from the nearest lake (2 or 3 miles) and
maybe down to the Med' every couple of years or so for an extended
holiday.
Anyway, my point is that the regulations here in Switzerland
require that the trailer be fitted with air brakes (I presume similar
to a normal tractor/trailer rig). We have no choice in the matter so
we're having the Pajero fitted out with the required compressor
equipment etc. at the moment (we pick it up in 2 weeks). So, here are
my questions:
1) Does anyone have any experience of towing with air-brakes?
2) Will I be able to launch off the trailer - ie. will it matter if the
brakes get submerged?
a) in Salt water?
b) in Freshwater?
Thanks Jon B Goode
|
| 56.35 | Is 3.0L BIG ENOUGH??? | MR4DEC::DCADMUS | happiness is a bigger boat | Fri Feb 04 1994 10:07 | 11 |
|
Ownibg a boat/Trailer that has a similar weight to what you are looking
at-I would urge you to check into towing a 6000#+ vehicle with a 3.0L
engine. My previuous two vehicle was 3.7L full size van and It was not
adequate. I cuurently use a 5.1L engine and that is not a strain, but
extra oil and transmission coolers are a must.
Dop not even think aboyut getting the axle(s) that have brakes on
them in salt water!
|
| 56.36 | What about in freshwater? | BERN01::GOODEJ | Mr Dragon | Tue Feb 15 1994 04:25 | 25 |
|
I hope 3.0L will do the job - at least the couple of miles to the
lake an back twice a year! There are bigger engined 4WDs available out
here (ie Grand Cherokee, Range Rover etc) but as only a very small per-
centage of our annual mileage will be towing, we wanted a smaller
engine - going above 3.0L would have put us in the top road-tax grade.
I have no illusions of the truck being able to handle it with ease,
I'll be happy just so long as I don't have to get out and push!
Besides, its all down hill from here to the med!
Your answer means I can't launch from the trailer into the sea, but
I assume from other notes that this is precisely what most people do.
Am I correct in thinking that noboby is using air brakes?
You don't mention freshwater? Does that mean it would be ok to
submerge the trailer in my local lake?
I saw the truck yesterday with the tow-hitch / air-brake
connections fitted. Hope the wife doesn't mind how it looks (she
wouldn't let me have running-boards, let alone a winch!) as its gonna
be hers!
Thanks very much for the response.
Jon B Goode
|
| 56.37 | brakes and salt | RANGER::MACINTYRE | Terminal Angler | Tue Feb 15 1994 07:36 | 15 |
| I would assume that any boat trailer equipped with brakes could be
submerged (kinda defeats the purpose if ya can't 8^)
In the US it's the law for trailers over a certain size to have brakes,
I would assume that most large offshore boats that are trailered have
brakes, and therefore they should be salt proof. (again just my
assumption)
I have a painted tandem axle trailer with surge brakes, I wouldn't dare
put it in the salt since it's not galvanized and it has 5 chrome mags,
I don't want to do anything to speed up the corrosion process. I'd
also be concerned about dunking the brakes in saltwater, but would HOPE
that they were designed to be subjected to it.
-don mac
|
| 56.38 | lauch without getting brakes wet! | MR4DEC::DCADMUS | happiness is a bigger boat | Wed Feb 16 1994 16:51 | 59 |
|
depending on the slope of the ramp= you can ge a baot into the water
easil without getting the brakes we. My trailer has dual axles- brkaes
arte on the front axles only.
I roll the boat down the ramp until the water is almost at the edge of
the rim;i.e: the tire is submerged, but not the wheel. The brake drums
are high and dry. at this point on most ramps. the bottom of the hull
is jsut touching or slightly in the water.
I have an all roller trailer and I have the bait all ready to roll- I
simply unlock the winch and giv th boat a slight push- she rolls down
the trailer- as the stern enters and reaches the water line, the stern
levels off and the boat slides right in. Unhook the winch line ,move
the trailer out of the way, beach the baot and we're ready to go.
The hard part is getting the baot nack on- you drive the booat up to
the trailer and winch the boat onto the trailer. When you ubmerge the
trailer you can drive it on- but goodbye brakes.
The brakes are pretty simple hydarulic drum brakes- cast iron drum
steel backing plate, cast iron cyliner and steel backed shoes and steel
retirn springs etc.
Fresh water is not as bad a s salt- but starting out with wet brkes
(read no stopping action) and a 6000# boat will make for some
intersting stops. The one time I had the brakes fail on my trailer was
interesting- oulled up to a stop light,hit the brakes- NADA-- the
wheels on the van locked and that 6000# monster rushed me right through
the intersection with all 4 wheels locked.
Air brakes work just like hydraulics (same kinds of shoes, they just
use a pneuwmatic piston to operate a cam that actuates the brake shoes).
A little care and you can easily launch/retreive without getting your
brakes (or your feet) wet.
A couple of miles towing with 3.0L and a big boat could probably be
done in low range- if you dont mind some of the gestures and new words
you will learn from other drivers. An auxiliary Oil coller is something
I would highly recommend. I would really be concerned about towing moer
than a couple of miles or over any hill terrain.
Reminds me of the time years ago when I was toodling along on the Coast
in Norfolk,England along the NorthSea. WE got behind this sail boat
(propbably about 20' or so that was going at a fast walk. The boat was
loaded with gear up to the gunwales. When I finally braved it and went
to pass- I was shocked!
The boat was being pulled by a Mororcycle
With a Sidecar
With wife and baby in the sidecar!
that was in 1960- I guess the laws have changed some!
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| 56.39 | Disk brakes? | SALEM::NORCROSS_W | | Thu Feb 17 1994 07:45 | 10 |
| You can order brakes with galvanized parts and then install a brake
flushing system that connects to your garden hose. It would flush the
salt out from the inside and make them last somewhat longer.
Lightly dragging the brakes once you leave the water should dry them
out in a reasonable period of time. I wonder why nobody has thought of
putting disk brakes on trailers. They would initially be more
expensive but they make stainless steel calipers, etc., that should
last forever and wet brakes would never be a problem. Nor would brake
fade when used alot.
Wayne
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| 56.40 | Its hard to avoid getting wheels wet | DNEAST::OKERHOLM_PAU | | Thu Feb 17 1994 12:20 | 11 |
| The slope of the launch ramp has a lot to do with it but I don't
imagine there are many that will allow you to launch and retrieve a
large boat easily without getting the trailer wheels wet. I've been in
a few situations where I've spent considerable time winching my 22 footer
up on the trailer in order to keep my truck wheels out of the water.
By the way, I intend to replace the entire brake system this year.
Seven years of this sort of abuse has resulted in the break lines being
totally rotted. I can only imagine what I'm going to find when I pull
the wheels off. I'm going to replace the parts with the galvanized and SS
units advertised in the mail order catalogs.
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| 56.41 | disc brakes | RANGER::MACINTYRE | Terminal Angler | Thu Feb 17 1994 16:07 | 11 |
| re: why nobody has thought of disk brakes
Ranger did.
My tandem axle ranger trail has disc brakes.
It's also a drive-on trailer. I float it off and drive it on at least
once a week in freshwater, submerging them most of the time. No
problems at all.
-donmac
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| 56.42 | yeah, but ... | SPECXN::ELLISON | Rick CXO3-1/E9 DTN:592-5102 | Thu Feb 17 1994 19:36 | 24 |
| I can understand the part about salt water being bad for electric brakes
because electricity and the residual salt wouldn't mix well, but from a
corrosion perspective on the non-electric parts like shoes and drums, I
would think all brakes would have equal problems with salt water.
For fresh water only use, I can't see how electric should have any worse
problems than other kinds (you disconnect trailer lights / electric brakes
before submersion right?). How is backing into a lake for a few minutes
any worse for electric brakes than towing several hours in heavy rain? Or
having it in the east coast humidity all the time?
Not yet owning a boat and only having towed one on the flat in Nebraska,
I'm really curious because here in the Colorado mountains driving down the
various passes results in surge brakes being on all the time and
overheating unecessarily due to engine compression keeping speed down
rather than using brakes. It seems, from what I understand so far, that
electrics can be manually (or automatically - with the proper controller)
adjusted to compensate for the weight shift to the tongue due to negative
incline.
Any insight or good pointers to other notes or references?
thanks and regards,
Rick
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| 56.43 | works for me | RANGER::MACINTYRE | Terminal Angler | Thu Feb 17 1994 19:58 | 7 |
| My trailer (disc) brakes are hydraulic surge brakes. I've towed
thru/up/down the NH/VT mountains without any trouble.
-donmac
ps: I never disconnect my trailer lights and never have any trouble
with them either 8^)
|