Conference vicki::boats

    re .0	Can't help you directly, in fact I'd like the same info
    since I'm considering adding surge brakes to my own E-Z Loader.
    
    	re  Salt water impact.  I've seen it suggested to take the boat
    to a fresh water ramp on the way home from the salt water outing
    and dunk it in, run the engine for a few minutes to flush the salt
    out.  I've always thought,  "what the heck, I can use the ear muffs",
    without thinking about the salt in/on the trailer, (the lights could
    probably benefit from a rinse too).  Maybe I should plan for this
    if ever I  *_DO_*  get to salt water ?
    
    	Reg

The June issue of Trailer Boats has an ad for a place called
Davis Marine. They've got a complete hot dip galvanized brake
assembly. The ad looks like this:

              FIX YOUR TRAILER
          SALT-WATER PROOF BRAKES

 Replace your rusted out trailer brakes with new, all galvanized
 wheel brake assemblies.
 All steel parts hot-dip galvanized. Wheel cylinder completely
 sealed. Solid brass lining rivets. Heavy plated and super-lubed
 adjuster. Bolt on complete assembly, backing plate and all.

          2 YEAR WARRANTY  
 10" BRAKES - $178.50/axle set
 12" BRAKES - $218.00/axle set

 4 bolt or 5 bolt pattern
 $9.50 shipping. CA Residents add 6.5% sales tax

 DAVIS MARINE
 Wilmington, CA 90744
 (800)426-1398
 (213)549-1344

    re: .0 >   Out of curiosity, about how old is the trailer....
    
           ... or roughly how many times did it see the salt water.         
               
    MArk
    

    The trailer is a 1984 model.  I am second owner and I use it a
    maximum of 4 times per year.  I keep my boat in the water all
    summer.   The previous owner also kept the boat at a marina so
    his use was similar to mine. 
    

    FYI.  I replaced the entire brake assemblies with new units that
    I bought from Spec Trailers in Boxborough.  Their price for new
    factory assemblies was almost half of what a dealer quoted me.
    
    I called E-Z Loader and talked to their customer service rep about
    my idea for a fresh water brake flush kit.  They had seen one that
    had been purchased from a company in California.  I could not locate
    the company so I made my own.  Pretty simple.
    
    My brake back plates have a "knock-out" assy.  I removed this piece,
    inserted a 3 inch length of 1/2" PVC.  The PVC is retained by gluing
    homemade retainers on either side of the back plate.  Just take
    a 1/2" PVC coupling and cut off pieces about 1/4" long.  Use PVC
    adhesive to glue these retainers to the PVC pipe.   Now run lengths
    of 1/2" hose to a plastic "T" fitting, add a garden hose fitting
    and you are in business.   Tie-wrap the hose to an axle or suitable
    bracket.  Now when I return from a salt-water launch, I cah hook
    up the garden hose and flush the brakes for 5 minutes.  I plan to
    allow ample time for the drums to cool before I flush them to make
    sure they don't warp.  Total cost using an old piece of garden hose
    was less than $5.                                                 

    Franklin Trailers
    Somerdale, New Jersey
    (609)627-6330
    (800)526-3358
    
    I just ordered 10" galvanized backing plates with shoes, springs,
    adjuster, and cylinders for about $45 a wheel.  Somewhat better
    price than .2.
    			J

       I think this is the right note for this..  I'd like to know how to
    keep rollers from seizing up on a trailer that gets only salt water 
    use.  My father has a 20' Sea Ox on a Caulkins roller trailer that is
    ~5 yrs. old.  He just told me that he has to replace all of the rollers
    on the trailer at a cost of $300-$400.  I would think there would be
    some preventive maintenance that would take care of this problem.
    He told me that last year he freed them up with penetrating oil and a
    pipe wrench.  He's 72 and really doesn't need this type of a workout.
    So, what do I do?  Some magic fix to free them up?  Replace them?
    I'd like to know how you all avoid the problem.  Thanks in advance.
    
    					B.C.

      My father is in the same situation. He greases the roller shafts
    about every other year. This seems to keep things pretty free. You
    should also hose down the trailer after every dunking in salt.
    
    				Kenny

    
    
    First- The prices you quted include labor, right??- if not , start
    shopping around for your rollers
    
     Most of the major catalogs have a good selection of rollers at
    discount prices.
    
     Get rollers without the steel bushing- get the ones with a nylon or
    non corrodding bushing- that srtops one source of corrosion.
    
     The shafts are another source- you can either grease them well (I have
    had good luck with the anti-seize compund that you find at most
    automotive parts stores- you'll get aluminum colred Gunk all over you,
    but it works pretty well at keeping the water awat. An alternative is
    to throw out the carbon steel roller shafts- and get some SS
     shaft material and start cutting to length. INstead of those stupi
    caps that the mfr use to keep the shadfts from falling out, drill an
    the shafts and put in a ss cotter pin and washer.
    
     I have had my long all-roller trailer in salt water for three years- 
    When I first got it , I put the anti seize on the shafts and lubricated
    the rollers (nylon bushing type) and shafts with marine water proof
    grease- no problem yet, but theose stupid p[lain carbon steel shaft
    retainers all rusted away after the first year.
    
    
     A good long fresh water rinse will help a lot- My trailer get s
    deluged  after every launch/retreival. IT helps a lot
    
     Having owned a boat trailer of one type or ar anther for the last 18
    yrs- If your roller have steel bushings- get rid of them!
    
    Periodically pull the cotter pins- check the roller shafts and replace
    and/or clean and lubricate them- if you have to replace , go stainless
    steel- you can get ss shafting from any steel distributor- I thing
    Jamestown dsitributor also carries it. Bronze would be good also. Brass
    Doesn't have the stargth and may bend on you (at least the keel roolers
    would.
    
     My 2 �  
    Dick
    
    

       Thanks for the quick replys.  Any chance of getting source names??
    The only catalog I have handy is Bass Pro Shops which is definately
    fresh water biased.  They have Stoltz Super Rollers.  The keel rollers
    have steel reinforcing tubes, I'm sure if they were stainless they'd
    say so.
       The price of $300-$400 was not installed but was roller assemblies
    which I would guess includes shafts etc.  I'll be calling him tonight
    to ask more questions and pass on this info.
       He only has to trailer about one mile to Sesuit Harbor in Dennis
    and there's no fresh water on the way home so a dunk in the fresh is
    not really an option.  He won't travel any extra distance on the roads
    down there during the summer and I don't blame him.  I guess it's
    hose work!!.......Thanks again.
    
    					B.C.

    
    
    Probbaly the best prices and lousiest service is from Defender
    Industries, New Rochelle, NY.- fortunately they now take plastic.
    Soem of the major catalogs with godd prices:
     Boat/US
     Goldberg marine
     Defender Industries
     M&E Marine
     Jamestown Distributirs
     Bliss Marine
    
     Bliss and Boat/US have stores in Mass- 
      THere is a NOtesfiel on Catalogs- but for some reason I can't get
    into the directory- I think it is Barnum::catalogs- adresses should be
    in there or maybe in this file.
    
     

    It's been awhile since I looked closely at a boat trailer--could you
    drill, tap, and install grease fittings to the rollers?
    
    Carl

    
    I just bought a 1979 Highlander Boat trailer and before I bring it home
    I have to replace the bearings and races in the hubs.  The outer
    bearings were intact and I managed to get a number off them, but the
    inner bearings were missing.  I assumed the inner bearings would be the
    same size as the outer and assembled the hubs with the same size inner 
    and outer bearings.  Unfortunately, when I put the hub on the spindle, I 
    can't get the castle nut on because the inner and outer bearings are
    about 1/2" too far apart (measured from the outside of the outer
    bearing to the inside of the inner).  This is when compared with the
    available distance between the washer that presses against the outer
    bearing, and the shoulder of the spindle, against which the inside of
    the inner bearing sits.  Also, note that the bearing races seem to be 
    seated properly.
    
    So hear's my two questions:
    
    	- Do boat trailers typically have the same size inner and outer 
    	  wheel bearings?
    
    	- Does anyone know which city or town Highlander trailers are made
    	  so that I could give them a call?
    
    Thanks in advance,
    
    -Stevie D

    Stevie,
    I ran into a similar problem once while trying to replace a hub.  I 
    forget what brand the trailer was, but it may have been a Highlander.
    As far as I could tell, the trailer had an oddball size axle and hub
    combination.  I bought what was supposed to be a standard replacement 
    hub for a 1" axle, but it wouldn't fit.  It had the same probem you
    describe - the replacement hub was about 1/2" wider, and therefore
    the castle nut wouldn't reach the threaded portion of the axle.
    
    This may explain why the hubs on your trailer have no inner bearings.
    Whoever replaced the hubs installed them with no bearings so they could
    get the hubs to fit on the axle (nice move!). 
    
    I don't know what the solution is, except maybe to go right to the 
    trailer mfg'er.  In my case, I was trying to repair damage from a
    "lost wheel" incident, and was at a hotel about 2 hours from home.
    I finally ended up repairing the old hub, because I couldn't find
    a replacement one to fit.
    
    Good luck!
    Rick

    
    There was an older "standard" hub/axle cobo that was shorter than that
    being used today. I had run into this on a boat trailer a greind had.
    He lunched the hub, bought a new one and found out it was way too
    short-
    couldn't get the nut on. The trailer shop did not have the older hub,
    but he ended up buying a new stub axle and had it welded on, everything
    was great after that as the newer hubs and bearings can now be used.
    
    ________________
    		    |_______________	
    				    |
    		    ________________|
    ________________|
    
    |<------------->|<------------->|
    	   A               B	
    
    
    Measure A and B dimensions and check with any camper/trailer
    shop. That plus your old hub, they probably can fix you up.
    
    Are both hubs the same???
    Did you see if the inner bearings fit over the shoulder on the inner
    side of the axle (the A part above)?
    
    
    

    Re: .14   
    
    I have the original hubs.  When I pulled them the outer bearings were
    intact enough to get a number off of, but the inner ones were a mush of
    rusty grease, rollers, and bits of bearing cage.
    
    
    Re: .15
    
    For my spindle the "A" and "B" sections are the same diameter.  Both
    inner and outer bearings seem to fit just fine on the spindle shaft.
    I was wondering if the *width* of the inner bearing was different than
    the outer, as otherwise it seems to fit just fine.
    
    Someone here (BXB2) convinced me to verify that I didn't boo-boo and
    install the inner races reversed.  That would certainly account for 
    the added 1/2" between the bearings.
    
    I report back tomorrow after I take a look at it tonight.
    
    Thanks for your advice
    
    -Stevie D

    
    I guess what I was trying to say in .15 is that on some older
    axles,there were some where the A+B dimensions was 1/2" shorter than
    the standard dimensions used today on most trailers.
    
     Dick
    

One of the inner races (called "cups" by some manufacturers) could be
reversed.

         ------------------------------
         |              HUB           |           (this is the normal view)
         ------------------------------
         |---      |  |<-INNER |  |<----OUTER RACE
  OIL    |     ---\ \ |  RACE  | /  /---
  SEAL-->|     |   \ \|        |/  /   |
         |     |I   \             / O  |-------- 
---------+-----|N   |             | U  |        |<---CASTELLATED NUT        
               |N   |-------------| T  |        |-
               |E   |             | E  |--------| |        
 AXLE          |R   |             | R  |        | |
               |    |             |    |        | |        
               |B   |             | B  |--------| |
               |R   |-------------| R  |        |-         
---------+-----|N   |             | N  |        |
         |     |G   /             \ G  |-------- 
         |     |   / /|        |\  \   |
         |     ---/ / |        | \  \---
         |---      |  |        |  \
         ------------------------------
         |              HUB           |
         ------------------------------
                   

My first boat and trailer were '58 models. The trailer had the above
setup. Inner and outer bearings and races were the same. I think it was a
"TeeNee" trailer. Since then, the only time I've seen different inner and
outer sets was on large trailers (for large boats) *with brakes*.

The most common bearing is LM44643. NAPA sells that as part of a set
consisting of the race (cup) and the bearing. They can usually
cross-reference just about anything, if they can take the time.

                  

    Regarding the problem I described in reply .13:
    
    I popped the oil seal off the hub last night and checked the inner race 
    to see if it was reversed as a few people had suggested, but upon
    examination I found that I had installed the cups correctly.  At this 
    point my only option is to call Highlander and see what bearings
    they recommend.
    
    Does anyone have an address for the Highlander trailer company, or at
    least know what state they're manufactured in ??
    
    I can't pick my boat up till I get this hub problem straightened out so 
    I need *HELP* !!
    
    Thanks,
    
    -Stevie D
    
    

    I think you have a "hub" problem, not a bearing problem.  The inner
    and outer bearings are the same, and if they fit in the outer races
    you've got the right ones.
    
    As Dick and I have both said, there are two different "standard"
    hubs, one is about a half inch wider or further apart between the
    inner and outer bearings than the other.  I'm sure you've got the 
    wide hubs and the "narrow" axle stubs.  The trailer I owned that
    had this problem wasn't all that old, it was a 1976. As I said 
    earlier, I forget the brand but it may have been Highlander, in
    fact I think it probably was.
    
    At this point your best bet is to try a Highlander dealer directly.
    Check the NYNEX Boater's Directory for a good listing of boat 
    trailer dealers.  If the correct hubs are unavailable, you may have 
    to replace either the axle stub or the complete axle.  No big deal 
    really, Northern Hydraulics has 2000 lb. axles for under $40.
    
    Rick  

    But Rick,
    
    I pulled these hubs right off the trailer axles.  The previous owner
    had used this setup for years, so these hubs must have worked on this 
    axle at one time.   The outer bearings were good enough to get a number 
    off of, but the inner ones were completely destroyed by salt water and 
    rust.  I merely guessed that the inner bearings would be the same as the 
    outer.  I'm going to get the ruler out tonight and make some more
    measurements.
    
    Thanks for the help,
    
    -Stevie D

    
    
    MAke sure you have the bearing races seated. If the inner seal does not
    go in all the awy, the races are probably not fully seated. Both inner
    races were removed right?- I assume it took some effort to drivr them
    out. IF the race is not absolutley square with the hub bore, they will
    cock and jam- remove the inner races, check how far back the "step" in
    the bore is,and make sure the races are properly seated. You may also
    want to check the old nearing races for part#'s- a bearing shop shoiuld
    match them up.
    
     Dick
    
    

    Just thought I'd report back and tell you that I took the hubs to a
    machine shop and had the race seats sunk in 1/4" deeper on either side.
    
    That put the outsides of the bearing 1/2" closer together and allowed
    me to get that castle nuts on and my new boat home where it belongs.
    
    Thanks for all the help,
    
    -Stevie D

    I need to move the axle forward on my Easyloader Trailer. I need to do
    this because the tongue weight is too great for my hitch and I can't
    move the boat any further back on the trailer. It's an 18' Lund sitting
    on a 1500lb trailer with a 2 foot extened tongue. Does anyone have any 
    experience doing this? 
    
    The dealer tells me to measure from the back end of the frame and move 
    both axles brackets forward equidistance. Has anyone done this? Is there 
    much danger of getting the wheels out of allignment? How carefull are
    the wholesalers who assemble trailers with this?
    
    Thanks for any help, Peter Cooper-Ellis 

re: .24
> The dealer tells me to measure from the back end of the frame and move 
> both axles brackets forward equidistance. Has anyone done this? Is there 
> much danger of getting the wheels out of allignment? How carefull are
> the wholesalers who assemble trailers with this?
  
Pretty easy job. In centering the axle, you're not talking about thousands
of an inch or anything.  

Let's put it this way; use a tape measure, take your time, and you'll
be *guaranteed* to have the axle straighter than the trained apes who
did the initial assembly with a yardstick and an air wrench.   8^)

You can measure the correct tongue weight by placing a bathroom scale
under the trailer tongue jack.  It should be anywhere between 5-10% of
the total weight, with around 7% being the norm.  It depends on what you're
towing with.  A truck can handle the 10%.  A lighter car will do better
(less sag) at closer to 5%.

Rick

��You can measure the correct tongue weight by placing a bathroom scale
��under the trailer tongue jack.  It should be anywhere between 5-10% of
��the total weight, with around 7% being the norm.  It depends on what you're
��towing with.  A truck can handle the 10%.  A lighter car will do better
��(less sag) at closer to 5%.

    I've often heard this rule of thumb, but never understood
    whether it applied to tandem trailers as well as single axle.

    Any comments?

    
    Yeah, I think the weight is not as critical on a tandem trailer. On a
    single axle trailer the tongue weight and axle position have great
    impact on how stable the trailer is while towing. On tandem axle
    trailers, it seems to be less critical for that and more important that
    the trailer frame is level so that both axles carry approximately the
    same load.
    
    					Kenny

	I built my own utility trailer and hauled it around behind a 
light (relatively) car, it was often heavily loaded and the load was 
not always properly distributed - though for the long vacation hauls I 
tried to get as much weight as far forward as practical.  Here's a few 
thoughts from that experience;

	If the tongue load is ~0 the trailer just doesn't seem to be 
there - on a straight smooth road with no side winds.  You pull what 
amounts to a two wheel vehicle in teeter-totter configuration.

	As the load is moved forward the trailer becomes more like a 3 
wheel vehicle - on a straight smooth road with no side winds the only 
difference is that the back of the tow vehicle squats down, perhaps 
significantly.

	The biggest difference is when you get off the straight smooth 
road and/or get some side winds - e.g. from 18 wheelers or going under 
bridges )-:   A (relatively) heavily loaded trailer with low tongue 
weight can actually pull up on the hitch on bumps, unloading the rear 
wheels significantly.  Bumps AND side winds can cause significant  
"tail wagging the dog"  problems.  There are significant bumps on a 
lot of highways  - -  and obviously a lot of them cut through open 
country, across which big winds do blowwwwwww.

	So, I've had a few fearful moments.  I don't want any more, so 
my current solution is to put as much weight on the hitch as possible. 
If/when that is  "Too much"  I hook up the weight distributing hitch.

	Reg

PS	YMMV {your mileage may vary}

    
    re .24 - .28
    Thanks for all your replies. The tongue weight is well over 10% at
    this point. I haven't wieghed it yet, but I estimate it's around
    200lbs - that's more than my hitch is rated for (it's a fairly
    wimpy hitch.) My preference, is to have about 100 lbs on the hitch.
    I trailer my boats with my wifes car, what else? :-).
    
    I'll get out the tape measure and the sledge hammer this weekend, and 
    see how much damage I can do!
    
    Peter

    I only have one question then a suggestion.  Is that the correct
    trailer for your boat?  A 1500# trailer for a 18' boat seems kinda
    small.  I assume you have an outboard on it so maybe it's ok.
    
    My trailer has the spring shackles connected to angle irons on each
    side.  The angle irons have a number of holes drilled about 6 inches
    apart so that the whole assembly can be moved forward or backwards until
    the right tongue weight is found.  Then the angle irons are bolted thru
    the square tubing that makes up the side rails of the trailer.  The
    angle iron also gives added strength to the center of the trailer to
    prevent flexing.  You might want to consider doing something similar
    on yours.
    Wayne

    RE: last bunch
    
    	I was told around 100# was right for hitch.
    	I'll do the scale test tonight on mine. Thanks for the method :-)
    	My boat was way to much forward and since I use a front wheel
    	drive car my front end was pretty high and effected traction and
    	steering 8^0
    
    	I was told to move the winch back on the trailer.
    	So when I had the boat in the water I made a mark to ID the current
    	position and moved it back a few inches.   Then tried that out.
    	It took 3 times but now I can pick up the trailer hitch with boat
    	when before there was no way I could lift it.
    
    	I did have plenty of room to move it back so no problem on 
    	centering over the axle.  I never did test the tongue weight
    	so will check her out tonight.
    
    	-< Tuna Tail >-

    ...get a better hitch...
    
    ...get a set of air shocks...
    
    Carl

I did this with my tandem axle COX. It was an interesting exercise, to
say the least. 

I actually did some of it out on the highway in Connecticut because I
couldn't drive over 30mph without the trailer going cuckoo. I finished it
up in my yard over several days, with road trips in between.

Anyway, one of the previous replies was right: you're not dealing with
rocket science accuracies here. I did it with a tape measure and probably
achieved 1/8" or slightly better accuracy. Since this was in 1984, and I
still have the trailer, and I'm only on my second set of tires, I guess
there was some measure of success.

You have to do it while the boat is on the trailer. I used a cheap
comealong to move things around. And yes, a bathroom scale under the
tongue is a good reference. You'll have to have a spacer between the
hitch and the scale, because the tongue has to be roughly horizontal, not
just dropped onto the scale. And yes, a tandem trailer does need less
tongue weight than a single axle trailer. 

Problems? You might have to move the winch stanchion, and when you do,
this will affect your tongue weight. So, keep in mind that you're
entering into a reiterative process. In my case I found that 180-200#
tongue weight PLUS 60# air in the rear and 50# air in the front was
perfect. My boat is 24' glass and probably pushes the trailer's 5650# max
gvw when all the gear and 120 gallons of gas are aboard. 

My hydraulic brake line ended up stretched to its limit; you might have
to replace yours. If you do, bleed the system.

Oh yeah - I had to whack it once with a sledge hammer (against wood) to
break it free initially. The zinc was probably just stuck.

Happy trailering,

Art

    re:55.33
    
    >> "You'll need a spacer between the scale and the trailer hitch
    coupler"
    
    Assuming that your trailer has a crank-down trailer jack, it would
    probably be safer to put the scale under it and then use a little 
    math to determine what the weight would be at the coupler.  First,
    with the trailer jack on the scale and the trailer level (assuming
    your hitch height on the tow vehicle is correct to keep the trailer
    level!), record the weight on the scale.  Next, measure the distance
    from the center of the axle to the trailer jack.  Next, measure the
    distance from the center of the axle to the trailer coupler.  These
    measurements should be on a horizontal plane to be as accurate as
    possible.  To determine tongue weight (T.W.), use the following formula:
    
    T.W. = (weight on scale) x (distance from axle to jack)
           ------------------------------------------------
                     (distance from axle to coupler)
    
    Example:
    
            ( 100 LBS )  x  ( 10 feet )
     T.W. = --------------------------- =  83.3 LBS
                       12 feet
      
    This formula will not work with a tandem axle trailer because you don't
    have a true fulcrum point (axle) as you do with a single axle trailer.
    Wayne

I did some work on my small boat trailer this weekend. Among other
things, I replaced two of the keel rollers with the translucent yellow
jobbies. Whew. Isn't there an easier way to get the end caps off the
roller axles? I had to cold-chisel them off. Tenacious buggers. If any of
you know a trick, please share it. These are the push-on caps that look
like a derby hat.

I was initially disappointed that the new rollers (from Bass Pro) didn't
exactly fit my axles. Then I noticed that the old rollers had sleeve
inserts in them. I pushed them out and tried them, and they made the new
rollers fit perfectly. A little marine grease on the axles and they're
slick as snot.

I also installed 18" bow guides at the rear of the trailer. I've had some
difficulty getting the boat (a 14.5' Sea Nymph Fishing Machine) lined up
when it's windy, so I'm looking forward to an easier time of retrieving
the boat.

Art

    re .35
    
    > replaced two of the keel rollers with the translucent yellow
    >jobbies. Whew. Isn't there an easier way to get the end caps off the
    >roller axles? I had to cold-chisel them off. Tenacious buggers. If any
    >of you know a trick, please share it. These are the push-on caps that look
    >like a derby hat.
     A cold chisel is the way to go.
    
    
    I had a hole gouged into a 11 month old boat going through New York
    City (home of the killer pothole) one time because one of those little
    suckers came off. After I got home, I went to the Home Improvement
    Center and replace every shaft with plated bolt and aircraft nuts (ie
    nylon locks in them).  Never had a shaft fall out again, and they are
    easy to take off with a wrench.
    
    Cost is cheaper than "marine 3/8 steel shafts".
    
    I had the older rubber rollers and they were a pain. I took a set of
    old alumimun tent poles, cut them to 10 inch lengths and inserted them
    into the holes (boiled the rollers to make them expand first). Then I
    made spacers for the sides from coffee lids. Now there is no
    friction, and nothing is going to fall off.
    
              

    I am currently in the middle of getting my old grady ready to launch
    and have some questions on "upgrading" my trailer.  
    
    The trailer is a Shoreliner (?) and is in fair condition, but I spent
    most of last season being nervous that I was overloading it.  I hauled
    over 1500 miles with no incidents...but if I can beef up the trailer
    a little it would remove one thing off the long list that runs through
    one's mind on the way to the ramp.
    
    1) The tires that are currently on the hubs are labelled:
    
    		20.5 X 8.0 - 10		 Load range B
    		905lbs max weight at 35lbs psi.
    
    	Can I replace these with a higher rated tire using the same rims?
    	one tire has a bit of dry rot between the treads, so I'm thinking 
    	of changing it which leads to changing both (funny how these things
    	take off...)
    
    	2) Can I upgrade the springs?  
    
    	I have no idea of sources (other than Spec in Boxboro, mentioned
    	earlier...) and no idea of prices.  Would I be better off just
    	buying an entire axle assembly, including new wheels/tires?
    
    
    	Jim

    I think I've answered my own question...
    
    I dropped by Gauch Bros., and talked to them about the tire
    issue...turns out that the tires that are on the trailer are more
    for "beach" launching (very wide) which is something I would probably
    never do with the grady...
    
    There were load range "c" tires abailable at roughly $40 each plus
    mounting.
    
    Instead, I purchased to new 5.75 X 8 load range "c" tires mounted on
    galvy rims for about $115, allowing me to use one of my old tire/rims
    for a spare (eliminating ANOTHER thing off the "list of things to worry
    about on the way to the ramp).  I probably could have gotten off a
    little cheaper by going through Shoreway or another mailorder, but I
    didn't want to wait for them...
    
    jim
    

    
    After a very bumpy highway ride (395 had the bridges all gouged) I
    had the joy of observing that the paint on the top of my trailer
    fenders was bubbling.... cool! I decided I'd best do something about
    the trailer's leaf springs...
    
    So... I removed them, took them to L&M spring in Lowell and 48 bucks
    later they have an additional leaf and have been re-arced.
    
    Quick service, fair price (hell Add-a-Leaf kits are 35-45 bucks!
    and you have to take the springs apart yourself)....
    
    Rick

re              <<< Note 55.39 by KAHALA::SUTER "Never too Hot!" >>>
>                            -< "New" Leaf Springs >-

    
>    After a very bumpy highway ride (395 had the bridges all gouged) I
>    had the joy of observing that the paint on the top of my trailer
>    fenders was bubbling.... cool! I decided I'd best do something about
>    the trailer's leaf springs...

	"Cool"  as in  "HOT"  ?
    
>    So... I removed them, took them to L&M spring in Lowell and 48 bucks
>    later they have an additional leaf and have been re-arced.

	I had bin meaning to post the following info., here and/or in 
	4wd - on seeing Rick's note I figger it might as well be here
	first (-: 

    A couple of months ago, (maybe memorial day week-end ?) I was 
having some minor tune up problem with my boat, so I made the MONGO 
ERROR  of going to CAP for parts at about 15 minutes after sunday 
noon.  After standing in the slowest moving of many slow lines for 
what seemed like an eternity I got to the counter and was told they, 
"don't have marine listings, can't look it up".  Although I knew from 
previous visits that this is untrue I decided to NOT make a scene and 
somehow make use of my long wait - so I bought a decent pair of gas 
charged rear shocks for the 'burb, at a decent price (pseudo sale).
The good news was that nothing was rusted frozen, no bolts broke as I 
removed the old shocks, I didn't even shed any knuckle skin.  The bad 
news was that I found a broken leaf on the right side.  *_HUGE_* 
quotes from dealers, almost as huge quotes from gas station  "repair 
shops"  and only slightly less huge quotes from the junk yard.  I think 
the lowest I could get to was  ~$125  for a new spring stack - and I 
wasn't exactly looking forward to doing bench presses with the rear 
end of a suburban.

	So, I started to ask around and finished up at  BALLARD
SPRINGS  in Worcester, on Rte #20.  For $80 they dismantled the spring
stack, cut stock, arc'ed it, installed new pads between all leaves
(leafs ?), re-installed it all with new U-bolts and whatever those
things are called that hold the stack together (hand made while I 
watched).  They asked if I wanted the other side done, I was hesitant
but they showed me that I had a broken leaf on that side too, it just 
wasn't as obvious since it hadn't started to separate - sure, do it.
So, for a little more than the cost of ONE spring I got both sides 
rebuilt while I waited, didn't even get my hands dirty.  I might have 
been in there a total of an hour and a half;  no "drop it off at 8 
tomorrow and call at 4 to see if we got around to it" stuff.

>    Quick service, fair price (hell Add-a-Leaf kits are 35-45 bucks!
>    and you have to take the springs apart yourself)....

	Yep, unfortunately these spring rebuilders seem to be one of 
the few remaining  "fair price for a fair job"  sectors of the vehicle 
repair business (-:

>    Rick

	Reg

<	So, I started to ask around and finished up at  BALLARD
<SPRINGS  in Worcester, on Rte #20.  For $80 they dismantled the spring
<stack, cut stock, arc'ed it, installed new pads between all leaves
<(leafs ?), re-installed it all with new U-bolts and whatever those
<...

   More kudos here for BALLARD SPRINGS...   had a very similar story about
10 years ago with my Toyota Land Cruiser...

Al

    Same comments about Palmer Spring in Manchester, NH.