Conference unifix::sailing

    
    I'd guess the marine suppliers don't list them, but a call to one
    of them may give you a lead...
    JIm.

I'll bet if you get the address or phone number of the soldering
gun manufacturer (off the box at the store?) you can contact them
and get one my mail.

--RS

    When at home making new lines I use the following process with VERY
    good results:
    
    - Take an old hack saw blade and nail it to a piece of wood --
      (i.e. some scrap for a handle)
    
    - Heat the Blade with a Bernze-o-matic blow torch --
      (gets red & hot so hold it by the wood handle)
      (heat the blade only - wood burns....:>) )
    
    - Lay the line on another scrap of wood and 'cut' it using the
      "BACK_side" of the hot blade.
      (if you use the tooth side it will not cut through)
    
    You get one neat cut per heating; but, it really does go fairly fast
    as the re-heat time is very short.
    
    I've been using the same blade for 10 years & find I get very clean
    cuts, with no black burn marks, and they seal neatly in one shot.
    
    I found for me it works better than the standard device you are looking
    for.
    
                                   Good luck,
                                             Lou_the_token_stinkpotter....
    
                                            

    I use an old, thin blade putty knife and torch, much like the previous
    note suggested. With the putty knife I can smooth up the cut end and
    make a nice round, firm end. You can burn the line if you are not a bit
    careful, but its fast and easy once you get the hang of it.

re -.1:

Ron, and here I thought you were a traditionalist and all that. Cutting 
and sealing line with a hot knife??? What, you don't use sewn
whippings??? Am I the last one to eschew hot knives, shrink tubing,
electrical tape, and that dip-the-end-in- plastic-gunk pseudo whipping
stuff? Should I expect to hear that you'll be buying spectra/kevlar/mylar 
sails for your new schooner?

big :-)

    	Alan I still use sewn whipping I modify it is slightly, I generally
    whip either side of the cut and then cut with a hot knife.  If I do not
    have a hot knife I seal (sometimes burn it) with a lighter.  I could be
    talked into the heat shrink approach but if someone dropped the tubing
    in my lap.

    	At home I use an ancient Boy scout knife that the temper was shot on
    decades back.  I heat it on the gas range and makes nice clean cuts and
    when it finally gives up the ghost no loss.  I tried the dip and whip
    stuff and hated it......

    	I am also fond of back splicing the ends lines which is even rarer
    than whipping.....  Now if I could only perfect the textbook perfect
    even flawless sewing......  My sewing often looks like I was drunk or
    blind not pretty but it works.....
    

    Forrest

    Of course I still use sewn whipping on the line. Is there any other
    way? And only 3 strand line, not that braided clothesline stuff!

    
    	Well now me lads there's the rathole. Ever work with Kevlar or Sta-
    	Set-X? The rules are changing with the guts of the line. And the
    	lines are Dacron, not manila or hemp. Plastic will fray under load,
    	that's the way it goes. Heat sealing is neccessary, if ya ask me.
    	I do like to whip the ends tho... for looks!
    
    	All youse traditional guys- get rid of the resorcinol, dacron and
    	modern metals, and what have you got?
    
    	A tree! Nyuk Nyuk Nyuk.
    
    	Scott_who_loves_wood_but_prefers_to_sail.
    

RE: .4,

>>>    I use an old, thin blade putty knife and torch, much like the previous
>>>    note suggested. With the putty knife I can smooth up the cut end and
>>>    make a nice round, firm end. You can burn the line if you are not a bit
>>>    careful, but its fast and easy once you get the hang of it.

Along the lines of Alan's reaction...Doesn't the hemp ignite, and the 
tarring flare up?  And now does a putty knife make such a "nice round,
firm end" in manila anyway?

;-) (and with respect for tradition)

J.

    re .8
    
    Some high tech lines require traditional whipping techniques.  When you
    put a hot knife to kevlar line only the dacron cover melts.  The kevlar
    core smokes a bit and smells awful but, aside from that, just sits
    there.  I guess that's why it makes good bullet proof vests.  
    
    Also, because the dacron cover is usually loosely attached to the core
    and tends to slide a lot, it's a good idea to sew the whipping on.  I
    learned this when I pulled on a kevlar sheet once and watched the core
    worm right out of its cover.
    
    - gene

    
    	That's right Gene- I've gotten different advice depending on the
    maker, but now I pull back the cover, soak the Kevlar strands with
    slightly thinned epoxy for an inch or so, pull the cover back, apply
    heatshrink. Over that mess goes simple whipping & melting. The
    heatshrink is necessary only for even pressure during the epoxy kick.
    I'm probably adding unneccessary work, but what the hey. 
    	Now if I can only get a StaSet splice right...
    	Scott.

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Note 1860.12             soldering iron line cutting tip                12 of 16
STEREO::HO                                            9 lines   1-JUN-1992 18:34
                       -< Use a Car Cigarrette lighter >-
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    I guess the soldering gun tips don't exist.  Can't find one.
    
    But I discovered during this weekend's last minute rigging at the
    boatyard prior to launching that a car's cigarrete lighter does a great
    job.  Just press in the lighter before cutting off the line.  By the
    time you're done sawing through the line, the lighter is hot enough to
    seal the end very neatly.
    
    - gene

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Note 1860.13             soldering iron line cutting tip                13 of 16
DEMOAX::GINGER "Ron Ginger"                           9 lines   2-JUN-1992 09:47
                             -< Make it Yourself! >-
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    You could make a soldering gun tip- they are just copper wire. Ive used
    #14 bare copper, bent to an appropriate shape, as a temporaary tip.
    Keep the wire length about the same as the standard tip since the
    resistance determines the current. You might try hammering the cutting
    area to a bit of a flat, knife like section.
    
    Now if you wanted to get real fancy, you could use a piece of razor
    blade, and silver solder two copper wires to it. Shouldnt take more
    than 5 minutes to make.

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Note 1860.14             soldering iron line cutting tip                14 of 16
KALI::VACON                                          10 lines   2-JUN-1992 18:26
                  -< potential source for soldering iron tip >-
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    I was at the Marine Exchane in Peabody (rt 1 south) last weekend buying
    some line.  I asked the 'soldering iron tip question.'  They looked
    behind the counter, said they were all out, but would order restock.
    
    I'd call first, but I think they'll get you one.   Given the reaction I
    got, I am sure they exist.
    
    Good luck
    
    Gary 

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Note 1860.15             soldering iron line cutting tip                15 of 16
TUNER::HO                                            10 lines   9-JUN-1992 17:33
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    re .13
    
    I tried DIY by bending and grinding a peice of copper wire.  The guage
    must have been too heavy.  It never heated up but the rest of the gun
    did, so I released the trigger before meltdown.
    
    The silver solder and razor blade trick looks promising.  But I have
    no idea what silver soldering is.
    
    - gene

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Note 1860.16             soldering iron line cutting tip                16 of 16
UNIFIX::BERENS "Alan Berens"                          4 lines  10-JUN-1992 09:40
                                 -< a source >-
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re .0:

Hammar Hardware in Nashua has cutting tips for Weller soldering guns. 
Less than $3 for two, I think. They had them yesterday when I was there.