T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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1792.1 | Unlinked maybe... | MILKWY::WAGNER | Scott | Tue Sep 17 1991 14:06 | 11 |
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My fear would be the `upper' rudder stalling while the lower
steered... unless you could unlink them or flip one up a'la catamarans.
Hunter's Child, a good sized (70'?) creation of Warren Luhrs, had a
manual pivoting rudder. I'd have put that to good use in my last boat-
heeling actually pulled the rudder out of the water!
Have fun with the cedar... how are you treating it? Any oils in the
wood that screw things up?
Scott.
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1792.2 | Cedar construction | NZOMIS::MITCHELL | Glen M. - The Kiwi Connection | Wed Sep 18 1991 07:37 | 6 |
| re the Cedar; we are using a fairly common practice in NZ with the
Cedar Strips being a core material which provide fore and aft strength,
a laminate of 6oz "S" Glass inside and out laid perpendicular to the
planked cedar, using expoxy resin...
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1792.3 | I like it. | MILKWY::WAGNER | Scott | Wed Sep 18 1991 12:42 | 5 |
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Neat & easy, huh? The cedar soaks up the epoxy well, then? Is the epoxy
akin to acetone- thinned West System, or...?
Curious_Scott, who has ingested too much West and System 3.
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1792.4 | Am I crazy or is this the norm? | NZOMIS::MITCHELL | Glen M. - The Kiwi Connection | Thu Sep 19 1991 07:31 | 33 |
| We're using unthinned West System Epoxy and get good penetration
through the cedar resulting in excelent bond...
Through the experience of others using Epoxies we are well protected...
rubber gloves and chemical filtered breathing masks are standard
equipment!
As a matter of interest we finished the exterior hull surface last
week, turned it over last weekend, and removed the frames in order to
attack the inside surface... this week we (my crew/partner is currently
working on it full time) has sanded and glassed the inside (6oz "S"
glass again with West System Epoxy) and we are about to start making
and inserting the bulkheads etc...
We are extremely pleased with the stiffness and apparant strength so
far, and the weight (or lack of) we have achieved... the hull can be
lifted at the bow, with only the transom supported, using one arm
only!!
We are not working off plans.... they dont exist for the original
explorer... and used the original mould to get the basic hull shape
which we have modified slightly to improve light air performance
(introduced some rocker into the otherwise flat section aft of the
centreplate).. we built new custom wood frames from taking 9 stations
working from the centre-line of the original mould...
We have also made the stem more plumb to increase the waterline length,
and have reduced the sheerline slightly...
Do you guys up on the East Coast do these crazy things.. or is just us
mad KIWIS???
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1792.5 | There are'nt many... | MILKWY::WAGNER | Scott | Thu Sep 19 1991 12:20 | 30 |
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There are a few cold-molded boats around; mostly racers. I helped a
little on the one (and only... too bad) Dresser 30. Same basic
construction technique and crew-on-fulltime, but a unique design- kind
of a 30' Laser/Flying Scot with a lift-producing lead bulb way out on
the end of a flat wood/carbon blade, allowing LOTS of sail. Some cherry
and other wood veneers for looks on the outside, all the glass inside.
Also scary-light, but no stress fractures yet- tho the rig was a
dissapointment, for the price...
I also considered buying a very successful IMS coldmold out of
Chicago- forget the designer- some known name- the price on such boats
is ridiculous reasonable, since people think they'll implode or
something in a puff.
My own home-project experience is more to the Light Cabin Furniture
domain since I haven't a clue how to design or loft a boat... but a
dinghy might be realizable.
One of these days!
Let us know how you get on.
Oh yeah, is that cedar peculiar to NZ, or do you think my
neighborhood veneer dealer's cedar would be the same stuff?
Have fun- turn that exhaust fan on (wish we woulda thought of
that!)
Scott
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1792.6 | less is better... | ROMOIS::DEANGELI | Abbasso tutte le diete!!! | Mon Oct 21 1991 08:13 | 15 |
| Hey, downunder!
I've seen a photo on a magazine lots of time ago of an ULDB
that had a very strange rudder pivoting on it's vertical
axis i.e. always vertical with the boat healing. Could it
be a suggestion in order to avoid the problems related to
the twin rudders? I found it very interesting even if proba-
bly less stiff than a fixed one.
Let me know about your cedar construction, it's quite
interesting.
Ciao from Italy.
Arrigo
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1792.7 | How about a boom made of Cedar? | NZOMIS::MITCHELL | Glen M. - The Kiwi Connection | Tue Oct 22 1991 06:57 | 32 |
| Hi Arrigo,
Thanks for the suggestion! At this stage we are committed to the twin
rudder concept.. our hull is very flat and wide at the transom, so we
think rudders at the outside will have more "bite" when heeling, and
close to the Broach situation.
Most of the BOC Single handed yachts seem to have twin rudders.. In our
case they will be on a pivot, thus the winward rudder can be "swung up"
if neccessary!! If it doesn't work we will simply revert to the more
conventional.
Construction of the boat proceeds at pace... the deck, cabin, and
cockpit are nearly complete.. its all 4mm ply, and strengthened by
having most flat sections actually curved to provide "intrinsic"
stiffness.
The Cedar and "S" glass hull looks good... its really stiff, and
light... I can actually pick the boat up at the transom without too
much trouble.
We are seriously thinking about building a boom out of 4mm ply and
cedar with an "s" glass laminate... we understand that the Kiwi
Americas Cup yachts are doing booms in a similair fashion... we cant
see why it wouldn't work... theres plenty of strength in a good box
"jumbo" style section, and it'll be light... our main is loose footed,
so your only looking for a system to carry the outhaul.. what do you
reckon about this... I'll keep some of the other crazxy ideas for
later!
Glen.
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