T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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1559.1 | | WRKSYS::NELSEN | | Tue Jul 17 1990 09:27 | 31 |
| I'd scrape the sockets until I had shiny metal, and replace the bulbs.
Then, not knowing which of the two alternatives is better, try the
following experiment: (1) coat the tip of the bulb and all the metal
surfaces with grease to keep moisture out; or (2) use No-Ox which is a
grease which I believe has a sacrificial metal mixed with it.
I've used No-Ox on Cu-Cu connections before and it seems to work well, but
I'd like to see a controlled experiment comparing it with ordinary bearing
grease or white grease.
On getting high resistance with no current flowing or low resistance
with high current flowing: this is due to an oxide barrier that has
formed at some contact interface somewhere in the circuit from the
+battery terminal back to the negative terminal. When even a few tens
of mA flow, the barrier is broken and low incremental resistance is
obtained. When the current is shut off, or if only microamps flow, then
the oxide barrier causes it to look like an open circuit. To get 2 V, there
also has to be a shunt path due to corrosion, which is causing a voltage
divider effect to occur.
It sounds like you need to go through and redo much of your wiring. I
suggest if you want it to last longest, solder all joints! Crimping is
also good, but will not last as long as soldered joints (you're talking
3 years vs 6 years (for the soldered joint).
The crux of it is that electrical joints have to be checked, and many
redone, each season if you want a fully reliable electrical system.
/Don
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1559.2 | Small leakage current | TARKIN::HAYS | Is this the end or the beginning? ... Phil BXB02-2/G06 293-5852 | Tue Jul 17 1990 10:32 | 26 |
| RE:.0 by BPOV04::T_MOORE
> One other strange thing, with master panal "on", light switch "on" I
> have 12 VDC at the socket, with master panel "on", light switch "off",
> I have about 2 VDC at the socket. How come?????????
The switch is leaking a small amount of current (a fraction of a mA). I'd
wouldn't worry a lot about it as it is caused by salt on surfaces of the
switch. You can "solve" it by carefully cleaning the light switch. The
leakage would be back by next month if not sooner.
Your VOM has a resistance. To find out the amount of current leakage, find
out how many ohms per volt your meter is, multiply that by the scale you
made the measurement on, and then
2V/R = current.
Example: 1K ohms per volt (a CHEAP VOM), 15 volt scale, 15K resistance,
Current = .13 mA
Example: 25K ohms per volt (a fair VOM), 15 volt scale, 375K resistance,
currrent= .005mA.
Phil
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1559.3 | Grease may be insulator | LANDO::SCHUMANN | Thanks for sharing that. | Tue Jul 17 1990 10:32 | 10 |
| re: <<< Note 1559.1 by WRKSYS::NELSEN >>>
Using grease in this application may cause trouble, unless the grease is
conductive. I believe that many lubricants are good insulators.
You may be able to obtain conductive grease at a good electronics store.
Make sure it's electrically conductive, not just thermally conductive (used for
mounting heatsinks!).
--RS
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1559.4 | Coat it with grease before putting it together! | TARKIN::HAYS | Is this the end or the beginning? ... Phil BXB02-2/G06 293-5852 | Tue Jul 17 1990 10:49 | 14 |
| RE:.3 by LANDO::SCHUMANN "Thanks for sharing that."
> Using grease in this application may cause trouble, unless the grease is
> conductive. I believe that many lubricants are good insulators.
Greases are generally good insulators. When a connecters is assembled, the
physical wiping action will make a metal to metal connection even with the
contacts coated with grease. The grease will then keep salt water out of
the connection, so it will stay a connection.
I've used heat sink grease for this with very good results.
Phil
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1559.5 | More on grease and NoOx(-type electrical grease) | WRKSYS::NELSEN | | Wed Jul 18 1990 14:37 | 28 |
| re .3 and .4, and my .2:
The NoOx I referred to is the type grease that is sold in electrical stores
for connecting Aluminum wire to Cu. I've used it for connecting Cu to Cu
on boats, but don't really know if it would be any better than ordinary
bearing grease.
My Volkswagen instruction manual suggests that all connectors should be
filled with grease ... Maybe it is as suggested in .4: it is the wiping
action that maintains the metal-to-metal connection, and the grease keeps
moisture out.
I tried measuring the resistivity of NoOx by putting the probes of my
digital VOM into the grease. The reading was an open circuit. So it may
be that that grease is NOT conducting, but rather the metal in it serves
a sacrificial role in preventing electrolysis with the joint of two
dissimilar metals. In that case, I don't know how effective it would
be with a Cu-to-Cu joint. This is why I suggest trying an experiment
with two lights in similar weather exposure: one with NoOx (or equivalent),
and the other with ordinary grease.
Since these sockets corrode SO rapidly in wet conditions, it wouldn't hurt
to try the experiment of packing it with ordinary grease. If the connection
opened up, one could wipe it clean and still be ahead of doing nothing.
/Don
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1559.6 | | ENOVAX::WHITCOMB | | Wed Jul 18 1990 21:57 | 16 |
| So far the only suggestion for cleaning the light sockets has been
mechanical. My solution is to get some Muriatic Acid from your local
Hardware store and carefully soak your corroded sockets. This should
be done with some care in a well ventilated area but the results are
well worth it and, depending on the amount of corrosion to be removed,
very quick. Just remove the socket and immerse it in a small amount of
Muriatic, watch closely to see that only the rust is being eaten, and
remove and rinse thouroughly in clean water. Then dry and use one of
the corrosion preventive methods discussed eariler.
I use this method to clean the black oxidation that forms inside
of the distributor caps on my cars. Also good for cleaning and
descaling othe metals.
Good luck , John
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1559.7 | I'll add a few pennies too | DDIF::MCCARTHY | Coming to you from Pink Flamingo Land | Wed Jul 18 1990 22:07 | 10 |
| re .5:
The NoOx is NOT used, as you stated "for connecting Aluminum wire
to Cu.". It IS used to prevent/hinder the oxidation of the aluminum
wire. This happens quickly when copper is around. The National
Electical Code has very specific rules when dealing with AL wire.
The NoOx (I think its a brand name) is, I believe, non-conductive so
it will not help you make a better connection. It should do a good
job of keeping the weather though.
bjm
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