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The cost of chartering is not a stable thing. It depends entirely
on the situation. The cost may be that you buy a new sail, or that
you do some work on the boat, or it may be cash. In any case, the
value usually ends up being somewhere between $200 and $350.
Another inexpensive option is to share a boat with someone who wants
to spend part of the season skiing (or non-sailing). There always
seem to be boats left in the parking lot during racing... we'd prefer
that they were in the water. "The more the merrier"
Regarding the level of competition, we have all levels; from olympic
class to beginners. This year (especially in the fall) we are planning
to have seminars where the top skippers and crews coach all comers
on boat handling, sail trim, proper dress for the weather conditions,
etc.
We feel that in past years there may have been too much emphasis
on competition and not enough on having fun. This year we have
a new set of officers and the emphasis is shifting back to enjoyment.
In addition to the racing and seminars, there are more social events
planned for this year.
We'd really like to increase both membership and participation.
If you're interested in joining the club or getting on the mailing
list (I publish a monthly newsletter) let me know. We'd love to
have you join in the fun!
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| If you want to frostbite sail, do it in the class designed
EXCLUSIVELY for winter sailing, the Cape Cod Frosty. It is a small
lanteen rigged pram about 6 feet long. The plans are available
for about $20 and the boat is built out of two sheets of marine
plywood. If your not a handy person, a boat can be bought for
$300-$900 depending on racing quality. Sails are available for
$100 (Dacron) to $400? for Mylar sails.
The people who race have fun but take it quite seriously. It
is very cramped sailing but the competition is very good. Races are
typically in an inner harbor with lots of chase boats to pluck unlucky
sailors from the sea.
I've only sailed a Frosty when the temperature was in the 80's.
I'm a big person (6'1" 190lbs) and could fit in and tack the boat
around. I like to sail, but not as much as I like to stay warm.
If people are interested I'll try to find out who to contact for
class rules. The only location that I know where they sail is in
Hyannis Harbor.
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| I'm toying with the idea of recommissionnig SLOW BOAT TO CHINA,
my frostbite dinghy for the upcoming season. But having blown the
entire summer sailing the Etchells, things around the house have
been neglected and I expect to have difficulty getting permission
to sail as often as I'd like.
If anyone is interested in using the boat half the time in exchange
for picking up half the $250 fee, let me know. SBTC is old but
minumum weight. The mast is new and the sail only has a few races
on it. We should be able to get it up to speed with not much tweaking.
Races are Sunday afternoons in Marblehead and at regattas throughout
the season. I've got a good trailer if there's interest in doing
some regatta sailing.
- gene
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| In response to several inquiries for information on frostbiting
the following information is offered to potential participants to
let 'em know what there really in for.
THE BOAT - The interclub dinghy was designed in the late '40s by
Sparkman and Stevens for winter sailing on Long Islang Sound. The
original models were molded plywood with 72 sq. ft. of sail on a
cat rig. Many of these are still in use at Larchmont NY. Quite
an attractive boat if wood turns you on. The stopped making these
in the early fifties. If you want one of these, you must buy from
a current owner and sail in the Larchmont fleet. The rest of the
world makes do with the fiberglass version which, in the opinion
of many, is one of the most esthetically displeasing objects that
can float. They're not called interTUBS for nothing.
True to the nickname, an interclub looks like bathtub with a sail
on it. The bow is plumb but sharp with rounded bilges which taper
to a fuller section as you go towards the stern. Aft of the center
board trunk the hull bottom flattens out. The centerboard and rudder
are laminated NACA sections the condition of which owners lavish
a great deal of care. You would too since about $500 of the boats
value is in the blades. There usually custom made by Mark Lindsey's
Boatworks. Sail controls are outhaul, vang, cunningham, and sheet.
A one part mainsheet is adequate. Control lines for the others
are often led port an starboard and usually appear complex to those
not used to racing dinghys. The minimum weight is 250 lbs. There
is quite a bit of variation from boat to boat. Some will say
otherwise, but I can't tell the difference in sailing a light vs
a heavy boat. Unlike a Laser, an Interclub is a displacement dinghy
which almost never planes. With a small sail and a crew weight
in excess of the hull weight, a few lbs. of fiberglass over or under
has a negligible effect on performance. However, tuning is important
and will dramatically affect boatspeed. As will the subtle nuances
of boathandling. The crew and skipper do have to learn to work
together (roll tacks, weight placement).
WHERE IT'S DONE - The venues that I know of are: Marblehead, Scituate,
Duxbury, Newport, Essex Conn., Larchmont NY, Manhasset Bay NY, and
Rochester NY. The season runs roughly from the first weekend in
November to mid April. Most fleets make a point of racing on New
Years Day. A national championship is held in mid April.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED - Besides the boat, good lifejackets. The Omega
short waisted model or equivalent is good. The typical orange $3
around the neck type is totally inadequate. In addition to keeping
the wearer afloat, the lifejacket also provides considerable warmth.
This bring up the most important consideration - keeping warm and
dry while still retaining agility. Some kind of foul weather gear
is always needed. Some just use their summer gear with long johns
and lots of wool and pile clothing underneath. About 25% of
frostbiters now use windsurfing dry suits. These cost about $250+
and let you resume sailing if you capsize. Otherwise, the race
committee will take you to a warm place immediately. One added
advantage of a drysuit is that it makes launching and hauling the
boat easier. Just roll the boat down the ramp, walk right into
the water and jump in. The drysuits have integral boots. If using
regular foul weather gear, good sea boots are a must. Cold hands
are always a problem. Neoprene work gloves are OK if you have large
hands. I like scuba diving gloves. They fit better and I don't
have to worry about putting my hand in the water. For the really
cold sensitive types, those little charcoal heat packets can be
helpful. Of course, don't leave shore without a warm hat, preferably
one with a chin strap. The boom will knock a ski hat off faster
than you can say gybe.
THE COMPETITION - frostbite sailing is really frostbite racing.
Most of the participants are former college racing types. If you've
campaigned a Laser or Hobie Cat, you'll fit right in. A minority
are beginning sailors or summer sailors trying to stay in tune.
Nothing wrong with that. You will definitely improve your boat
handling skills.
GENRAL PROCEDURES - because there is some element of risk is sailing
in 32 degree water, safety precautions are strict. There at least
two crash boats to rescue overturned sailors. In Marblehead there
is a heated shed on float in the middle of the harbor for warming
up frostbitten sailors. Everyone pitches in on crash boat duty
once or twice a season. Driving a whaler around and downing a few
brews next to the pot bellied stove in the warming hut while exchanging
sea stories is not the worst way to spend a winters afternoon.
Sometimes it hard getting those guys out of there at the end of
the day.
Boats are stored in the parking lot at the Eastern Yacht club.
Launching is either from the ramp or a small crane. Changing
facilities are available inside the club. The Fee for this year
is about $250 which covers the gas, equipment maintenance and rental
of the facilites.
Everyone asks "how cold is it?" My answer is that frostbiting is
as cold as skiing. You move around a lot in the boats. Plus the
harbor is usually about 10 - 20 degrees warmer than the suburbs
because of the heat sink effect of the water. There is an informal
guideline called the 20 - 20 rule. If it blows 20 knots and is
below 20 degrees, sailing is cancelled. If they can start the
outboards, it's not too cold to sail. If Mark Lindsay doesn't capsize,
it's not too windy to sail.
- gene
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