T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
---|
973.1 | I went with plastic | RAINBO::BURR | | Mon Sep 12 1988 13:52 | 10 |
| Plastic buoys hold up much better than the foam ones do and they
look better too. The problem is that the surface of the styro buoys
offer many 'handholds' for various critter and for any pollutants
and the bouy starts to break down. The plastic buoy I have for
my mooring is now six years old and looks the way it did when I
bought it. Also the plastic is very easy to clean.
Have you considered the traditional mooring buoy? They require
a little maintenance but are cheap, very durable and look nice.
|
973.2 | | BTO::JPETERS | John Peters, DTN 266-4391 | Wed Sep 14 1988 14:52 | 2 |
| So what's traditional?
|
973.3 | traditional mooring buoy | DNEAST::HALL_MERRILL | | Thu Sep 15 1988 08:27 | 3 |
| An inflated camel stomach...what else?
|
973.4 | | BTO::JPETERS | John Peters, DTN 266-4391 | Thu Sep 15 1988 09:03 | 2 |
| Which stomach?
|
973.5 | | DNEAST::HALL_MERRILL | | Thu Sep 15 1988 12:01 | 2 |
| The first one...it's bigger...good grief, doesn't anybody know anything?
|
973.6 | seriously folks... | RAINBO::BURR | | Thu Sep 15 1988 19:37 | 6 |
| a five or so foot piece of oak log (about one foot diameter) drilled
at both ends and painted real pretty. The weight of the chain (plus
some window sash weights if necessary) keeps the buoy floating at
an angle of about 45 degrees so the 'boat' end of the buoy sticks
out of the water.
|
973.7 | Back in the real world... | BTO::JPETERS | John Peters, DTN 266-4391 | Fri Sep 16 1988 09:24 | 7 |
| OK, so aside from cost, what are the advantages and disadvantages
of a traditional mooring float?
Also, how do you make the chain and pennants fast to the buoy?
J
|
973.8 | | MILVAX::HO | | Fri Sep 16 1988 10:47 | 7 |
| Wouldn't an oak log tend to leave abrasion marks on the hull of
the boat? There could be local restrictions on the types of mooring
bouys allowed. I recall seeing notices in the fall that specify
when winter sticks can go in and when they must be removed. After
hitting a submerged log, I can attest that it did little to enhance
the appearance or structural integrity of my boat.
|
973.9 | Can be dangerous! | CIMNET::CREASER | SUPER STRING | Fri Sep 16 1988 12:27 | 4 |
| They don't call logs which float end-to a "dead head" for nothing!
Jerry
|
973.10 | more on wodden buoys | RAINBO::BURR | | Fri Sep 16 1988 13:44 | 27 |
| A chain is passed through the anchor end of the buoy and shackled
to itself and the anchor chain. The penant is attached in exactly
the same way except that the penant is usually made of line with
the end being a splice over a thimble.
These buoys have been used since the dawn of time and work fine.
However, if you want them to last more than a season or two, you
have to pull them every fall and replace them with a winter stick
(as with any other buoy located in a harbor which can ice over)
and clean and paint it with anti-fouling paint before it goes back
in the spring. The reason for the popularity of the plastic buoys
is that they are cheaper for boatyard operators when you consider
labor and the fact that the plastic ones last essentially forever.
Re .8, yes, if your boat nurses on a mooring float if does potentially
scratch the hull surface and can even make real gouges. The same
can be said of any float though, especially after a season when
the float starts to grow a nice crop of barnacles.
Re .9, Almost anything can be dangerous! If you have ever walked
on a beach in Maine and seen the incredible number of hunks of
driftwood that come ashore, I think you might agree that the existance
of an occasional brightly painted log which is well chained to a
large weight on the bottom is not a menace that we need to loose
a lot of sleep over.
|
973.11 | More on Winter Sticks, please. | BTO::JPETERS | John Peters, DTN 266-4391 | Mon Sep 19 1988 09:52 | 4 |
| OK, thanks. Now, please describe the details of a winter stick.
J
|
973.12 | anatomy of a winter stick | RAINBO::BURR | | Mon Sep 19 1988 13:49 | 25 |
| A winter stick is a long--usually 6-8 foot float with as smooth
and narrow a section as possible. It is usually weighted with window
sash weights or something similar so that it floats vertically or
nearly so. Often there is a 2-3 foot red or orange dowel set in
the top of the float to make it more visible. As in the case of
the traditional log mooring float, a winter stick typically is attached
to the mooring chain with a chain which passes through a hole in
the bottom of the winter stick and is shackled to itself and the
anchor chain. Frequently, winter sticks are made of two pieces
of 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 nailed together.
The purpose of a winter stick is to take the place of the 'summer'
mooring buoy and associated paraphenalia (sp?) so that said stuff
does not get carried off with the ice in spring. Often, winter
sticks are attached to the heavy mooring chain by a long length
of lighter chain or rope so that the mooring chain can spend a restful
winter on the bottom. Regardless, the idea is to create a buoy
which will float vertically, which will not become stuck in the ice,
which will pull through the ice and be left behind when the ice goes
out, and which you will not care about if if does get lost (other
than for the pain of going fishing for your mooring).
OK?
|