| Title: | SAILING |
| Notice: | Please read Note 2.* before participating in this conference |
| Moderator: | UNIFIX::BERENS |
| Created: | Wed Jul 01 1992 |
| Last Modified: | Mon Jun 02 1997 |
| Last Successful Update: | Fri Jun 06 1997 |
| Number of topics: | 2299 |
| Total number of notes: | 20724 |
Having taken two days to completely survey my wooden boat, I now
have a list that staggers the imagination!
Actually, that is something of an overstatement. One of the nice
aspects is that very few of the things I have to do are difficult,
or complex, or fraught with danger, or require exotic capabilities
- no need to steam bend some frames.
I was bewildered as to where to start. A good friend of mine told
me that the rule of thumb is:
"Work from inside out - top to bottom."
Now, that's the kind of statement that appeals to software jocks,
like myself - a nice, top down approach. And I can see the benefits
of scraping loose paint from the inner hull BEFORE I clean out the
bilge, etc.
But, I was wondering if the list should be pruned to include only
those things that are required for:
1) getting the boat in the water, WITH
2) a sufficient degree of safety.
Then get to those other tasks if there is time.
There are already some tasks that I will leave for later seasons
- like paint the deck canvas (the canvas and paint is in excellent
shape, but the color is awful).
The big question in my mind is - will I have to undo work that
I do this season, by leaving out a task for a later season? I guess
that this is the GREAT WOODEN BOAT TRADEOFF - work vs sailing time.
What methods of organization do you folks use? I'd like to hear
differing opinions - what's important to you?
More than anything else, for me, it's the journey that counts.
I will have as much fun prepping the boat, as sailing it. And my
spirits are high.
Gregg
| T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 779.1 | "A cautionary tale" | CHEFS::GOUGHP | Pete Gough @REO (7)-830-6603 | Tue Mar 29 1988 03:29 | 23 |
When I was but a lad two individuals ( Names ommited to protect
the naive and clever) purchased within a month of each other two
similar elderly wooden yachts......
One did the basics as far as the eye could see and had a good first
season and then another but after that had some very expensive bills
and no sailing for a few seasons......
The other completely stripped his boat over a 12 month period out
of the water and under cover (A home made cover consisting of builders
scaffolding and many tarpaulins.....). He had a great deal of fun
as did his family and friends working on the yacht and when launched
a 14 months later it looked great. That boat is still sailing to
day although it has changed hands several times. I am told that
today it still does not cost a great deal to keep it in good shape.
I believe that time spent now will save you money and pain in future.
But can you believe someone whose Lloyds build certificate starts
with "One plastic Boat built .....etc"
Pete
| |||||
| 779.2 | Painting a canvas deck | SPCTRM::BURR | Mon Apr 04 1988 14:03 | 31 | |
When it comes time to paint your canvas deck...Remember that you
don't just throw some paint on it.
The proper way to paint deck canvas is to paint several coats with
a soft paint greatly thinned. The reason for this is that if you
use a hard paint, it will make the canvas hard and brittle. When
this happens, it is only a matter of time before the fibres in the
canvas break down. When this happens the canvas will crack and
tear and you will have to re-canvas the deck....an expensive and
unpleasent task as it involves removing the toe rails, trunk caps
and all deck hardware.
To repaint, you must first get the deck in shape. If it has been
properly cared for this involves only a water wash followed by a
quick wipe with lacquer thinner. If, however, there is a real build-up
of paint (especially a hard or glossy paint) you will have to strip
the deck with a water soluble stripper and a scrubbing brush before
you paint. If you have to strip, make sure that you thoroughly
flush away any remanats of stripper or it will ruin your canvas.
On new canvas, use 4-6 light coats of 1 part paint to 4 parts GUM
TURPENTINE (not mineral paint thinner). On old canvas it usually
takes only 2 or 3 coats. If the canvas is still good, it will drink
up the paint (in incredible quantities) swelling the fibres. Wait
at least 24 hours between coats.
A canvas deck treated this way will have no gloss, will provide
an excellent non-slip surface, and will last 30-50 years!
| |||||