| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 746.1 | | GRAMPS::WCLARK | Walt Clark | Fri Feb 19 1988 08:46 | 11 |
| There are several underwater fairing materials which are suitable.
Assuming the keel to hull joint is stiff (it shouldnt flex or move),
something like microballoons mixed with polyester resin is appropriate.
This should be preceeded by a complete cleaning to white metal and
epoxy priming/seal of the keel, otherwise the fairing will pull away
from the keel when the iron begins to oxidize.
Walt
|
| 746.2 | Recommendation for reattaching a keel | TALLIS::RICKARD | | Fri Feb 19 1988 11:03 | 24 |
| I have a detailed explanation of the process a friend of mine went
through when he had to reattach his 3500 pound lead keel. After
much struggling, and failure of some materials, he used Amicon keel
epoxy with filler added. Also recommended by a mutual friend in
the fiberglass industry is Interplastic's VE-81-10 shock resistant,
high elongation vinylester. A "belly band" was added for additional
support and strength; recommended for this is DBM-1208 double bias
matted tape.
I strongly suggest you read the entire article as reattaching the
keel was a very difficult operation and this friend and knowledgeable
sailor had to go to the factory for assistance with this problem.
(You may ask, if he was knowledgeable, how did he knock off his
keel in the first place? Actually he was on the head when a "friend"
ran the boat into solid granite! Not only loosened the keel, but
broke the head right off the base! I've since then replaced my
marine head with a Wilcox-Crittendon bronze base bullet proof variety.)
Anyway, contact me at 226-6592 if you want a copy of the article.
It's part of our Freedom 32 newsletter.
Pam
|
| 746.3 | use epoxy | MLCSSE::BERENS | Alan Berens | Fri Feb 19 1988 12:26 | 5 |
| re .1:
Epoxy resin (with the filler of your choice) is much superior to
polyester resin for fairing. Epoxy is also much easier to work with.
|
| 746.4 | I worry about corrosion | HPSTEK::SEIDNER | | Mon Feb 22 1988 15:25 | 4 |
| Ask a yard about sacrificial anode you should attach, to prevent
your bolts corroding away. Possibly safer to replace the corroded
two.
|
| 746.5 | "Rusty keel bolts" | TALLIS::RICKARD | | Tue Feb 23 1988 11:23 | 14 |
| About the rust, it seems that you would need to determine the depth
of the rust. Why not try some rust remover to see if you get down to
shiny, new, hard metal and then recoat the bolts if you are
successful. If you remove the keel to rebond it to the hull you could
also check the bars that pass through the hull. It would be
impossible for me to replace the bolts on my keel as they extend way
into the lead casting. Hard to say what to do if your keel bolts are
really rusted out, perhaps a new lead keel with stainless steel
keel bolts? Good luck! Have you perchance contacted the builder's
service department to determine if others have had this problem?
Pam
|
| 746.6 | | GRAMPS::WCLARK | Walt Clark | Wed Feb 24 1988 15:42 | 16 |
| Electrolysis caused by small amounts of ground current can make
the rust you see, even on Stainless bolts. Also, where seawater
lays trapped (like between a washer and stud, under a nut), rust
can occur on stainless.
In either case, cleaning it up is a good idea. If the bolts are
stainless (they should be), I dont think painting them will stop
future repeats.
Stopping ground leakage (find out what is causing the current flow),
sealing voids (like filling spaces between the washer, ground terminal
and keel stud) and perhaps a sacrificial anode (if erosion is detected)
may all help reduce/eliminate the trouble.
Walt
|
| 746.7 | PAINT THOSE BOLTS | DPDMAI::CARRERA | | Wed Jul 27 1988 18:19 | 9 |
| 1. I ALWAYS LIKE RICE AND/OR BEANS AS A FILLER(GARBANZOS NOT
RECOMMENDED). EXOTIC BREAD CRUMBS HAVE ALSO COME INTO FA-
SHION AS OF LATE.
2. CLEARLY ANY DECENT SAILING MAN OUT OF MARBLEHEAD WOULD HAVE
BETTER TASTE THAN TO SAIL WITH RUSTY BOLTS. WHERE'S YOUR
PRIDE MAN? PAINT THOSE BOLTS!!!
|