Conference unifix::sailing

    
    Personal experience is that PREPARATION  is 80% of the game for
    superior finishes.  The paint manufacturer's instructions serve
    a purpose in defining the surface prep work requirements.  I have
    found that extra sanding never hurt.  If primer is required, coarse
    paper first may help the primer adhere to the gelcoat.  If no primer,
    lighter sanding may be satisfactory but see the instructions.
    
    Also, you may want to consider using, if the instructions permit,
    both a brushing thinner and penitrol (sp - it is a drying retardant)
    mixed with the paint.  Apply with a sponge brush (cheap and throw-away)
    with vertical strokes and then "brush-out" with horizontal strokes.
    This gets the area covered, minimizes runs by leaving just enough
    paint to cover the area, and the additives prevent the paint from
    drying so fast that you get those ugly 'brush strokes' in the finish.
    My partner and I do this annually on wooden IOD (33' LOA one-design)
    with great results.
    
    Good luck!
    Peter
    

    I have done 5 hulls and this year I did my mast using InterThane-PLUS.
    This is a 2 part epoxy paint that is probably similar to the Petit
    your looking at.  InterLux has excellent instructions on the
    preparartion of the surface for their paint.  Even down to what
    grade of sandpaper to use for dry and wet sanding before painting
    nad between coats.
    
    I have some extra copies if you want one let me know your mailstop
    and I'll drop it to you.
    
    As far as process, I have found a foam roller and China brush to
    be the best.  The foam roller MUST be capable of taking the paint
    because the solvents used are very aggressive and will destroy a
    K-Mart roller in about 30 seconds.  InterLux sells rollers that
    they guarantee won't fall apart with their paint.
    
    It takes 2 people.  One to roll and one to "tip out".  The roller
    should work slowly and evenly, starting at a sharp edge (transom
    or bow).  The "tipper" should follow using a wide (4") China Brush
    to just smooth the surface using the tips of the bristles.  It is
    very delicate work, but the finish is phenomenal when done right.
     It looks as good as AwlGrip or Imron.
    
    InterLux recommends a primer and has several different ones available
    depending on the condition of the hull.  If it has small cracks,
    blisters, previously painted, etc.
    
    You should be aware that temperature and humditiy play a big role
    in these paints.  Can't paint is temperature is below 55 degrees
    or if humidy is above 60 percent.  Really limits the time of year
    that the painting can be done.  I have found the I could not paint
    until the middle to end of May.  Really kills an early launch date.
    
    Don't try to rush it.  The best jobs take the longest.  
    
    Good luck,
    Jeff
    

    
       I spent the better part of Saturday scraping, wire brushing and
    sanding the interior of my 18 year old Pearson. The paint had blistered
    and our clothes always looked grungy after a a sail because of this
    stuff flaking off.  The sections done are the sides of the inner hull,
    as the cabin ceiling is covered with fabric.
    
       All the loose stuff is now gone, so I need to repaint the interior
    as it looks UGLY with bits of white paint, beige filler, and green-white
    Fibreglas showing. Surface looks like the inside of a fibreglas
    product (ie rough).
    
       Any recommendations on what to use? The previous owner used Sears
    white latex paint in the forward cabin which seems to be holding up ok.
    It doesn't have to be the absolute best, but since I am springing for
    new cushions this winter, I'd like it to look half way presentable down
    there.
    
    The folks at West Marine said to use a 1 part Polyurathane on it, but
    this stuff is not cheap compared to other enamels etc (30-40 bucks a
    qt). 
    
    Would a non-marine finish work here (ie no UV to worry about). How
    about spray cans of paint.
    
    Depending upon the paint, so I need to primer the area first? 
    
    Also, how much will I need. I think I have about 120-160 sq feet of
    surface to do.
    
       Thanks in advance
    
        john

    I used a standard interlux paint from Jamestown distributors. I painted
    inside lockers and down into the bidge. It has worked fine for 5 years.
    
    Can't remember the interlux name for it, but it wasn't the
    two-part,too-expensive stuff.
    
    Another way to solve your problem is to put wooden ceiling into the
    area where you removed the paint. LOTS of work, but it looks nice.
    
                               Bill 

    Anyone ever use the 1 part polyurathine from Woolsey? the stuff is
    fairly inexpensive at Boat US ($40 a gallon). Don't need that much
    for the sides, but I can always use the rest in the bilges to keep
    the osmosis away.
    
    
    john 

    The one part urethane is easy to use - open the can, mix it,
    and brush it on.
    
    The kind I purchased was self-leveling - so the results were great.
    No brushmarks!