Conference unifix::sailing

Why not vinyl letters? Or do you insist on tradition? The vinyl letters 
on our boat look fine after 8 years, and the ones on our mailbox look 
new after 13 years. Most large stationary stores have letters in red and 
black.

    Its probably too late for you, but what about vinyl transfers ?
    
    I have used them for the last 9 years (once each on 2 different boats).
    They look great, last a looong time, are applied best to a wet
    surface (perfect for New England this year) and cost competitive
    with painting. Application can be done with boat in or out of water 
    by the owner. Transfer tool and instructions are included.
    
    I have used both PRISM and BOAT NAME. I prefer the variety available
    from PRISM.  Winter delivery was about 4 weeks.
    
    Walt

    I totally agree with vinyl graphics.  Looks great!  Cheap!  Took
    me 15 minutes to put on name and hailing port.  Straight too!
    
    See notes 11, 147, 284, 300 for further info.
    
    Encore

    Bill, I'd almost go so far as to *insist* that you look at the vinyl
    graphics. Check the other notes. It's the only way to go. Don't
    hold up your launching for name painting another minute. Buy some
    cheap vinyl letters now and put them on so you've got something
    and then look into ordering a graphic. There may be a problem with
    delivery as this is the busy season. I just waited about 5 weeks for
    a new one.
    
    They are not difficult to apply and with a little care can reasonably
    be done while in the water. Although I'm going to relate a story
    which sort of contradicts that view.
    
    As is my custom, I buy a new boat every year, or at least it seems
    that way since I'm afflicted with terminal four-foot-itis. A couple
    of weeks ago, for the third time, I was applying a new 12"x52" graphic
    with the boat in the water. The size made it unwieldy and the wind was
    a gusty 20-30 kts. While checking alignment and making pencil marks on
    the hull I accidently dropped the whole graphic in the water. This softened
    the backing paper to the point where it would no longer come off
    except in little shreds, and even then none of the adhesive (from
    the backing paper, not the vinyl) would come off. The whole thing
    was a mess and I figured that a replacement would be required. Because
    I'm a masochist, and somewhat cheap too, I started trying to save
    the graphic. After about two and a half hours of scraping with a
    razor blade, swiss army knife, fingernail, and just gentle rubbing
    by hand, my son and I had the whole thing clean. I had no idea if
    it would ever stick to the transom since I figured that all of the
    vinyl adhesive was long gone. I got a pleasant surprise. While
    squeege-ing had to be done very carefully since the front side paper
    was soft and fragile from repeated rinsing I got the name on without
    a hitch. Fearing adhesion problems I didn't remove the paper a short
    time later as directed but left it over night. The next day I
    thoroughly wet the paper and removed it without any problems. The
    graphic looks perfect and has held up for three weeks now. I don't know
    what the future holds but if it falls off later there's always the
    BOATGRAPHICS warranty that they'll replace it if it does.
    
    Follow instructions, and don't repeat my carelessness and you'll
    never be sorry going this route.
     
    John_R
    

    Well, thank you all for the quick replies!

    I did think about graphics as it was discussed in this notes file
    but didn't persue it because I didn't feel comfortable about not
    being to see ahead of time what the final product would look like
    in terms of color and style. (I do feel differently about that now though).
    
    I have found a place (Charette in Woburn MA) that offers a variety
    of the stick-on vinyl letters that I can use for now. This will
    enable me to take a closer look at the graphics route.
    
    (Another consideration is that having the transom painted will require
     an overnight haul).
    
    One question I do have about the decal is: Do you find that the
    normal weathering of the transom causes the decal'd area to be of
    a different color? ( I have an off-white colored hull).
    

    bc

    re. Weathering question...
    
    Can we assume folks with 4-footitus are exempt from replying? :-)
    
    Ed

    BE ADVISED THAT STICK ON LETTERING (OR SCREWED ON FOR THAT MATTER)
    DO NOT MEET COASTGUARD REQUIRMENTS FOR DOCUMENTATION.  I SEE THIS
    RULE VIOLATED ALL THE TIME BUT THEY COULD CHOOSE TO ENFORCE IT IF
    THEY LIKE.

re .7:
================================================================================
Note 147.2                  HULL LETTERING/ARTWORK?                       2 of 3
BRAHMS::RODENHISER                                   21 lines  18-JUL-1985 15:29
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bill,

Call BoatGraphics at 313-855-3525 and ask for their brochure.

They use adhesive backed vinyl to make boat names and graphic images.

 [ ... ]

It's not an issue for you but they also guarantee that their typefaces will
meet CG standards for documented boats.

 [ ... ]
    

    Transfers are about as much like "stick on letters" as engraved
    plates are to Dymo labels.  Without proper tools (hair dryer) they
    simply do not come off.  They also do not weather, curl, fade, etc.,
    etc.
    
    They provide great UV protection to the part of the hull they cover.
    That means after 4-5 seasons, if you remove the transfer, you will
    see just how much your finish (gelcoat, Imron, etc.) has weathered.
    
    I changed the home port on my first boat about 3 seasons after it
    was comissioned.  I could read the original port under the new one
    without too much difficulty because the gelcoat under the lettering
    had developed no pores from to UV exposure and had a higher gloss.

    The hull (off white) had not faded, per se, but the gloss had
    diminished despite continuous maintenance and waxing (ask those
    who know me what I do when not underway).
    
    Walt

    Re: .7 & .8
    
    Dave, I don't have the documentation regulations in front of me
    but I think you are confusing the rules concerning the documentation
    number with those concerning the transom lettering.

    The official number has to be permanently affixed to the inside of the
    hull. Painting, vinyl numbers, or even attaching an engraved board
    with screws would not meet this requirment. The key word is "permanent". 
    These numbers have to be either carved into the hull or on a board
    that's glassed in to a permanent part of the hull.
    
    Transom lettering is more concerned with clarity rather than
    application. To quote BOAT GRAPHICS:
    
    "A large percentage of the boats we name are federally documented.
    There are specific regulations regarding the legibility but we are
    able to use a wide variety of styles formerly not allowed. Most
    scripts and italics will pass as well as more traditional block
    styles. We can also use shadows, outlines and stripping through
    the letters provided we maintain the proper contrast. We've never
    had a problem with documentation but if we did, we'd recut a new
    name provided we know the boat's documented before hand."

    Actually, I just realized that I might be misleading some into thinking
    that these names have to be on the transom. Remember that only the hailing
    port (4" block) has to be there. The vessel name could be on the
    topsides. 
    
    Lots of examples of fancy graphics on all the US 12's running around
    Freemantle. I assume they're documented; didn't see any state
    registrations there.