T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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520.1 | Snooz control | CSSE::COUTURE | | Thu Apr 02 1987 16:43 | 18 |
| When I had my O'Day 25 I mounted the compass to port and the knot/log
to starboard. This was to get the compass as far away as possible
from anything electrical. The arrangement worked well except for
two things:
1. The compass card will be hard to read when you're sitting
on the starboard side. Even the 45 degree lubber lines don't help
much. If possible, I would recommend one of those compasses that
have the numbers on the edge of the compass card - easier to
see when you're seated. Also, I believe the bulkhead of the
Catalina 25 is slanted forward so you'll have to make some sort
of mount that will level your compass fore and aft.
2. The bulkhead was the favorite napping spot for my wife.
I had to wake her up whenever I wanted to know what the depth
was. On my current boat I had the instruments mounted on pods
next to the wheel so she can get an uninterrupted snooz.
|
520.2 | 2 Compasses are better than one | CSSE::GARDINER | | Thu Apr 02 1987 17:22 | 19 |
| I concur 100% with previous reply on bulkhead mounting of compass.
It seems that when the fog moves in, someone is sleeping in front
of the compass.
A recommended solution (from Cruising World and Sail) is to mount
2 compasses, port and starboard. This gives you easy reading and
limited interference from crew. It is expensive and would require
2 deviation cards. The rest of your instruments would the be mounted
below the companionway. They are water proof and, if proper protection
is provided, should be foot proof as well.
I recently installed a wheel and am replacing my bulkhead mounted
Aqua Meter Saturn with a Richie binnacle compass. If you want to
buy it ($75) give me a call @ DTN 276-9416. It has served me well
for the last 3 years.
Jeff Gardiner
|
520.3 | Kindred Cat Owner | ECAD::FINNERTY | | Thu Apr 02 1987 17:55 | 23 |
| I have a Catalina 25 also, and I have mine set up pretty much like
.1 recommended; I just purchased a "Plastimo" compass that is both
front and top reading, and is constructed especially for angled
bulkheads. Compasses not constructed this way may possibly be
sticky if tilted enough.
The bulkhead on the Cat 25 seems to be large enough so that the
issue of obstruction isn't a really major problem. You can mount
the instruments high enough so that a person can soak up the sun
and still not block the instruments. Keeping the electronics to
one side and the compass is a must, of course.
I have my radio located above the starboard berth, where the wires
can be lead under the companionway and tucked out of sight.
Mounting a LORAN is much trickier, since most models are not
waterproof, and yet you still want to be able to see it from
the cockpit in all kinds of weather. If you're interested in
that as well, let me know.
- Jim Finnerty
|
520.4 | experiment | PULSAR::BERENS | Alan Berens | Thu Apr 02 1987 18:16 | 26 |
| Actually, the compass may not need to be very far from the other
instruments. A lot depends on the instrument and the amount of current
the instrument uses. Our compass is 12 to 18 inches from our Signet
knotlog, depthsounder, and windspeed and is unaffected by them (all on
the same bulkhead).
Try experimenting. Set your compass on a nonmagnetic base (a wooden
stool perhaps) well away from magnetic materials (say in an open field).
Connect the knotlog, depthsounder, whatever to a battery. Bring the
instrument slowly close to the compass. Note the distance at which the
compass deflects. Do this from several directions. You can quickly
establish a minimum separation. The minimum separation may or may not
differ with the instrument on or off. Analog displays have small
permanent magnets in the meter movement and will probably have more
effect than digital displays.
Once the compass and the instruments are mounted on the bulkhead and the
wiring firmly cabled in place, any deviation induced in the compass will
be constant. Since you really should check the deviation of the compass
anyway, a little additional deviation (a degree or two) isn't too
important. I like having one cockpit bulkhead with no instruments or
compass.
Alan
|
520.5 | compass species | EXPERT::SPENCER | | Fri Apr 03 1987 09:29 | 13 |
| RE .1, first item: What you refer to is called "direct read" vs
"open card" type of compass. With the former you read numbers on
the aft edge of the card; with the latter, you read from the forward
edge.
FYI, Three Lanterns Ships Supply in Gloucester (recently referred to
elsewhere in this conference) is having a grand opening sale April
11 and 12. Ritchie compasses 40% off. KL990 paint 50-60% off.
They have many other brand names as well as never-heard-of's, and
40% off is the rule that weekend.
John.
|
520.6 | Thanks for the Help | FREEBE::TAFT | Steve Taft | Sun Apr 05 1987 22:43 | 10 |
| Gentlemen,
Thank you all for your interest and opinions on this matter.
I appreciate your time and expertice. I have decided to mount
the instruments as initaly indicated. A previously installed depth
sounder has aforded me with the necessary thru-hull for mounting
knot-log sensor. The transducer for the depth sounder is to be
internaly fitted (this I have done on previous occasions with great
success). I hope to see any of you that cruise Narragansett Bay
durring the up-coming months.
|
520.7 | Used DS, KM available?? | MURPHY::SAFDIE | | Mon Apr 06 1987 11:32 | 7 |
|
Does this mean that your old instruments are now for sale?
If so what the make, condition and price?
thanks,
charlie
|
520.8 | How to remove Non Metalic Thru-Hulls | DNEAST::POMERLEAU_BO | | Mon Jan 03 1994 15:59 | 19 |
| It's been some time since anyone wrote in this note. I am fortunate
enough to have gotten a new Autohelm Tridata instrument along with a
Autohelm wheel pilot for Christmass. I intend to remove the existing
Datamarine Depthsounder and Speed/Log from the starboard bulkhead and
install the new equipment in their place so as not to cut any new holes
in my baby.
What I would like to know how to do is to remove the thru hull's for
the Datamarine instruments so that I can install the new ones for the
Autohelm instruments. Anyone with experience removing non metalic
thru-hulls please responde.
The Datamarine instruments will be available for sale as soon as I
remove them. The boat is a 1986 vintage so the instruments are probably
85 or 86. The function fine, the reason for replacement is that with
the Tridata I will not be required to have a third instrument on the
bulkhead. Also I like the large readout on the Tridata.
|
520.9 | check size. might be able to swap | DPDMAI::CLEVELAND | Grounded on The Rock | Fri Jan 14 1994 16:43 | 16 |
| Do you have to remove the inside sensor or the entire through hull?
My datamarines have a pin above the thru hull holding in the
paddlewheel and depth sounder. I take the clip off the pin, pull the pin
and then twist the unit back and forth while the rubber o-ring releases
so I can pull the unit out of the hole. This of course then creates
quite a firehose effect of water coming in the boat, so you don't leave
the plug out for very long! If the Tridata sensor is the same size
(check West Marine or Boat US for sensor size of each) then simply pull
the old and plug in the new. If it's not, you'll probably need to
pull the boat, unscrew the old thru hull fitting and rebed a newer
one in - hopefully without cutting a larger hole. BTW, if your lcd
displays are still in good shape, I'd be interested in talking price
for your old stuff. Dtn is 486-6496.
Good luck,
Robert
|
520.10 | Try a little heat | CSOA1::GELO | | Tue Feb 07 1995 12:27 | 12 |
| If you find that you have to remove the old sensor, grab a heat gun and
hope the bedding is something soft like a polysulfide (Life Calk). From
the inside, scrape away as much bedding as possible, then heat the area
(it would probably be better if someone had a heat gun and applied heat
to the outside at the same time), but if not work from inside. Remove
the lock nut or whatever retainer is used, then take a rag (for your
hand) hand and P-U-S-H hard and steady. It's not short and easy, but
you will get the sensor out. A word of caution, be careful with the
heat gun, you might end up destroying the sensor. Replacements are
readily available.
Good luck!
|