T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
---|
510.1 | one suggestion | PULSAR::BERENS | Alan Berens | Mon Mar 23 1987 17:03 | 21 |
| The price of teak is never reasonable. My source (Boulter Plywood in
Somerville) charges $7.95 per board foot, but in exchange you can pick
your own boards from the pile. Quality is good.
The Gougeon Brothers boatbuilding book discusses how to install a teak
deck by epoxying thin teak strips to the deck. The same technique would
work well for a cabin sole.
I would suggest buying 3/4" or 7/8" thick teak boards to make you own
planking. Rip into inch and a half wide boards, bandsaw the boards in
half, and plane smooth. Holly is hard to find. You might try ash
instead. Teak is heavy, so the thinner your planking, the lighter it
will be. 5/16" or 3/8" would be amply thick, I think.
This is likely to be a $200 to $400 project that will take many days to
complete, but you'll like the results (our cabin sole is solid teak with
holly strips installed at great expense by the factory). DO NOT varnish
the sole. It will be extremely slippery when wet if you do. Safety
first, then beauty.
|
510.2 | Watch Boulter Prices! | 3D::GINGER | | Mon Mar 23 1987 22:31 | 9 |
| I havent purchased any teak for a while, but every time I have priced
ANYTHING from Boulter Plywood it has been significantly more expensive
there. Convience and selection may be worth a few bucks extra when
you are only buying one board.
I would check Palmer and Parker in Tewksbury. They had the best
prices when last I bought Teak.
|
510.3 | If your in the Littleton area | BPOV09::TMOORE | | Tue Mar 24 1987 12:57 | 7 |
| There's also a place in Littleton Ma, on Taylor St. call Hard Wood
and some-thing-or-other. I don't know if they have teak but you
might want to check if your close by.
Tom
|
510.4 | Teak are US | PHENIX::JSTONE | | Wed Mar 25 1987 18:00 | 12 |
| Hi Jim! Re:.2 and .3
I've been looking for teak as well. The place in Tewks is now
called Holt and Bugbee. Unfortunately they will not have any for
another 90 days, so I'm told. I checked NE Hardwood in LTN and
they do not have any teak and only will special order it for large
quantities. The only place that has any is Somerville. Let me
know when you are going-we can go together and I can take my pickup
if you're going to get some quantity.
Joe
|
510.5 | try Littlefield (Portsmouth NH) | ROCKET::HARDY | | Thu Mar 26 1987 07:48 | 8 |
| Try Littlefield Lumber in Portsmouth no-sales-tax-NH. I haven't bought
any teak there in a while... but as I recall the price pbf wasn't that
bad. They're also a very good mill. If you ask them to mill to 7/8, it
will be exactly 7/8!
Gary...
|
510.6 | Hingham Boatworks | CASADM::THOMAS | | Thu Mar 26 1987 09:24 | 10 |
| Another possibility is Hingham Boatworks in Hingham Shipyard. Don't
have the numfber at work but you can get it from the operator. They
should have a good supply in now.
I don't know about the quality of their work. They were very helpful
(ie honest, straightforward) when I talked with them about building a
grate for the cockpit.
Ed
|
510.7 | 221.* | TILLER::SEARS | Paul Sears, SHR1-4/D27, 237-3783 | Fri Mar 27 1987 14:15 | 5 |
| See note 221.* for more "where to find wood" info.
Also the NOTES command DIRECT/TITLE=wood might find some more wood-related
references.
|
510.8 | So many in Tewks | OCCAM::FANEUF | | Thu Apr 02 1987 14:08 | 7 |
| Also note: Holt & Bugbee and Palmer & Parker are two different
establishments, within about 1/2 mile of each other. P&P is more
likely to have teak.
Ross Faneuf
|
510.9 | securing cabin floors | AKO539::KALINOWSKI | | Fri Feb 25 1994 14:04 | 10 |
| Heres a different question about teak cabin soles. My center section
comes up quite nicely. It is in 3 sections, each 36x15 inches. these
puppies have a bit of heft to them.
Now then, How does one secure them. I am thinking about UFOs
(Unintended Flying Objects) in rough seas or a rollover. Should there
be a line attached to the bottom and secured to the bilge?
|
510.10 | flush-mounted latch | WRKSYS::SCHUMANN | | Fri Feb 25 1994 14:50 | 10 |
| It's a good idea to secure them if they're heavy. If you don't open them very
often you could use screws. There are also some very nice flush latches
available, e.g. put a lip under one end to keep that end down, and install
a flush latch at the other end. The flush latches generally have a ring that
you lift to release them. I've never installed one of these latches, but
presumably you need a hole saw of the correct diameter to do it.
I think Boat US carries the flush latches. Probably also Bliss, etc.
--RS
|
510.11 | Less than a 4x8 Sheet? | STOWOA::CORKUM | I'd rather be sailing! | Fri May 19 1995 07:42 | 21 |
|
I'm replacing some 1/4" teak plywood used in the interior of my sailboat.
(It was damaged due to a leaking port and although now dry, is unsightly
and beyond repair).
I've heard that this material can be bought in 4' x 8' sheets but I only
need a fraction of that (18" X 48").
If I'm lucky, perhaps one of you in the greater Boston area may have a
"reminant" that you'd be interested in selling. If not, do any of the
suppliers listed offer sheets for less than 4' x 8'? Or even better,
would any one be interested in splitting a sheet?
A few years back I split the cost of a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" marine
grade plywood with a friend. I still have much of the 4' x 4' section
left if anyone's interested.
Bill Corkum ("A Crewed Interest")
276-9499
STOWOA::CORKUM
|
510.12 | source for partial sheets | KELVIN::BARTOSZEK | | Fri May 19 1995 11:12 | 15 |
| RE:.11
Bill,
I just received a catalogue from Boulter (sp?) Plywood in Sommerville.
They advertise partial sheet prices for Teak playwood so I assume you
can buy partial sheets. I received my catalogoe by just calling and
asking.
btw; I got the pointer to Boulter from other notes in this file.
good luck!
John
|
510.13 | To varnish the cabin sole or not? | MUZICK::THOMPSON | Mike LMO2-1/M13 | Fri May 19 1995 16:39 | 12 |
|
I have just painted most of the teak interior of "Grace"
by applying one coat of Cetol followed by two coats of
satin finish polyurethane. Look great!
The cabin sole and the companionway steps, I left
alone as I don't want them slippery,
and now they look *really* shabby.
Is there any non-skid solution?
Mike
|
510.14 | bathtub non-skid | WRKSYS::SCHUMANN | Never tested on vegetables | Tue May 23 1995 13:38 | 8 |
| On my companionway steps, I used some of the sticky-back non-skid strips
intended for bathtubs. They work really well, and they look OK, too.
Just put your desired wood finish on first, then paste 'em on top of that.
You only need one or two narrow strips per tread to eliminate the hazard.
If you buy large ones, you can cut them down to the desired shape.
--RS
|
510.15 | Non-skid ideas | TOLKIN::HILL | | Wed May 24 1995 15:00 | 8 |
| One non-skid approach, which will cost a little money, is to add
interlux's nonskid to the last coat of polyurthane. (SP?) I did this on
my cabin sole and never had a problem. For the companion way ladder I
used some of the English non-skid material. (Decking material one glues
down). It is hard on the feet but you will not slip, at least that was
my experience.
Bill
|
510.16 | | TERRPN::FINAN | The sky was yellow and the sun was blue | Thu May 25 1995 11:05 | 8 |
| I covered the step down from the companion way and the cabin
teak floorboards that I had just refinished with a clear
plastic carpet/floor runner. The runner is ribbed so its not
slippery, it protects the floors and at 62 cents per foot from
Home Depot was pretty inexpensive. Looks pretty nice too!
Robyn
|