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Conference unifix::sailing

Title:SAILING
Notice:Please read Note 2.* before participating in this conference
Moderator:UNIFIX::BERENS
Created:Wed Jul 01 1992
Last Modified:Mon Jun 02 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:2299
Total number of notes:20724

510.0. "Teak Cabin Soles" by PUNDIT::MCWILLIAMS () Mon Mar 23 1987 13:40

     Does anybody know where I can get teak planking at a 'reasonable'
     price ? 
     
     One of the projects I have been toying with is to install a teak floor
     on the cabin sole. I have read the article in Better Boat and they
     seem to indicate that one should be able to get teak planking about
     $0.70 per running foot for 1/2" by 1.5".
         
     The cabin sole measures 119" (make that 10') with a 12" flat, and an
     8.5" sloped width, for a total of 17.1 square feet. For durability
     reasons I am not interested in the teak veneers that I have seen on
     some of the production boats. 
      
     Some of my questions are;
     
     1. Has anybody had any experience with installing teak cabin soles ? 
     
     2. Is is better to get standard teak planking, or get larger stock
        (say 6.75" width boards) and rip them down to size ? 
     
     3. What are the advantages/disadvantages of the thickness (i.e. 5/16"
        vs 3/8" vs 1/2") ? 
     
     4. Has anybody tried putting in holly strips ?
        a. How difficult is it to find holly ?
        b. How difficult is it to lay the stip in ?
        c. How difficult is it to rip holly down to size ?
     

     It sure would be nice not to step on a soggy rug on some of those
     cold/rainy mornings again.
     
     /jim
     
    

T.RTitleUserPersonal
Name
DateLines
510.1one suggestionPULSAR::BERENSAlan BerensMon Mar 23 1987 17:0321
The price of teak is never reasonable. My source (Boulter Plywood in 
Somerville) charges $7.95 per board foot, but in exchange you can pick 
your own boards from the pile. Quality is good.
     
The Gougeon Brothers boatbuilding book discusses how to install a teak 
deck by epoxying thin teak strips to the deck. The same technique would 
work well for a cabin sole.

I would suggest buying 3/4" or 7/8" thick teak boards to make you own 
planking. Rip into inch and a half wide boards, bandsaw the boards in 
half, and plane smooth. Holly is hard to find. You might try ash 
instead. Teak is heavy, so the thinner your planking, the lighter it 
will be. 5/16" or 3/8" would be amply thick, I think. 

This is likely to be a $200 to $400 project that will take many days to
complete, but you'll like the results (our cabin sole is solid teak with
holly strips installed at great expense by the factory). DO NOT varnish
the sole. It will be extremely slippery when wet if you do. Safety
first, then beauty.


510.2Watch Boulter Prices!3D::GINGERMon Mar 23 1987 22:319
    I havent purchased any teak for a while, but every time I have priced
    ANYTHING from Boulter Plywood it has been significantly more expensive
    there. Convience and selection may be worth a few bucks extra when
    you are only buying one board.
    
    I would check Palmer and Parker in Tewksbury. They had the best
    prices when last I bought Teak.
    

510.3If your in the Littleton areaBPOV09::TMOORETue Mar 24 1987 12:577
    There's also a place in Littleton Ma, on Taylor St. call Hard Wood
    and some-thing-or-other.  I don't know if they have teak but you
    might want to check if your close by.
    
    Tom
    

510.4Teak are USPHENIX::JSTONEWed Mar 25 1987 18:0012
    Hi Jim!  Re:.2 and .3
      I've been looking for teak as well.  The place in Tewks is now
    called Holt and Bugbee.  Unfortunately they will not have any for
    another 90 days, so I'm told.  I checked NE Hardwood in LTN and
    they do not have any teak and only will special order it for large
    quantities.  The only place that has any is Somerville.  Let me
    know when you are going-we can go together and I can take my pickup
    if you're going to get some quantity.
    
    Joe
    

510.5try Littlefield (Portsmouth NH)ROCKET::HARDYThu Mar 26 1987 07:488
    Try Littlefield Lumber in Portsmouth no-sales-tax-NH. I haven't bought
    any teak there in a while... but as I recall the price pbf wasn't that
    bad. They're also a very good mill. If you ask them to mill to 7/8, it
    will be exactly 7/8!
    
    Gary...
    

510.6Hingham BoatworksCASADM::THOMASThu Mar 26 1987 09:2410
    Another possibility is Hingham Boatworks in Hingham Shipyard. Don't
    have the numfber at work but you can get it from the operator. They
    should have a good supply in now. 
    
    I don't know about the quality of their work. They were very helpful
    (ie honest, straightforward) when I talked with them about building a
    grate for the cockpit.
    
    Ed 

510.7221.*TILLER::SEARSPaul Sears, SHR1-4/D27, 237-3783Fri Mar 27 1987 14:155
See note 221.* for more "where to find wood" info.

Also the NOTES command DIRECT/TITLE=wood might find some more wood-related
references.

510.8So many in TewksOCCAM::FANEUFThu Apr 02 1987 14:087
    Also note: Holt & Bugbee and Palmer & Parker are two different
    establishments, within about 1/2 mile of each other. P&P is more
    likely to have teak.
    
    Ross Faneuf
    

510.9securing cabin floorsAKO539::KALINOWSKIFri Feb 25 1994 14:0410
    Heres a different question about teak cabin soles. My center section
    comes up quite nicely. It is in 3 sections, each 36x15 inches. these
    puppies have a bit of heft to them. 
    
    Now then, How does one secure them. I am thinking about UFOs
    (Unintended Flying Objects) in rough seas or a rollover. Should there
    be a line attached to the bottom and secured to the bilge?
    
    
    
510.10flush-mounted latchWRKSYS::SCHUMANNFri Feb 25 1994 14:5010
It's a good idea to secure them if they're heavy. If you don't open them very
often you could use screws. There are also some very nice flush latches
available, e.g. put a lip under one end to keep that end down, and install
a flush latch at the other end. The flush latches generally have a ring that
you lift to release them. I've never installed one of these latches, but
presumably you need a hole saw of the correct diameter to do it.

I think Boat US carries the flush latches. Probably also Bliss, etc.

--RS
510.11Less than a 4x8 Sheet?STOWOA::CORKUMI'd rather be sailing!Fri May 19 1995 07:4221
I'm replacing some 1/4" teak plywood used in the interior of my sailboat.
 (It was damaged due to a leaking port and although now dry, is unsightly
 and beyond repair).

I've heard that this material can be bought in 4' x 8' sheets but I only
 need a fraction of that (18" X 48").

If I'm lucky, perhaps one of you in the greater Boston area may have a
 "reminant" that you'd be interested in selling.  If not, do any of the
 suppliers listed offer sheets for less than 4' x 8'? Or even better,
 would any one be interested in splitting a sheet?

A few years back I split the cost of a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" marine
 grade plywood with a friend. I still have much of the 4' x 4' section
 left if anyone's interested. 


Bill Corkum ("A Crewed Interest")
276-9499
STOWOA::CORKUM
510.12source for partial sheetsKELVIN::BARTOSZEKFri May 19 1995 11:1215
    RE:.11 
    
    Bill,
    
    I just received a catalogue from Boulter (sp?) Plywood in Sommerville. 
    They advertise partial sheet prices for Teak playwood so I assume you
    can buy partial sheets.  I received my catalogoe by just calling and
    asking.
    
    btw; I got the pointer to Boulter from other notes in this file.
    
    good luck!
    
    John           
    
510.13To varnish the cabin sole or not?MUZICK::THOMPSONMike LMO2-1/M13Fri May 19 1995 16:3912
	I have just painted most of the teak interior of "Grace"
	by applying one coat of Cetol followed by two coats of
	satin finish polyurethane. Look great!

	The cabin sole and the companionway steps, I left
	alone as I don't want them slippery, 
	and now they look *really* shabby.

	Is there any non-skid solution?

		Mike
510.14bathtub non-skidWRKSYS::SCHUMANNNever tested on vegetablesTue May 23 1995 13:388
On my companionway steps, I used some of the sticky-back non-skid strips
intended for bathtubs. They work really well, and they look OK, too.
Just put your desired wood finish on first, then paste 'em on top of that.

You only need one or two narrow strips per tread to eliminate the hazard.
If you buy large ones, you can cut them down to the desired shape.

--RS
510.15Non-skid ideasTOLKIN::HILLWed May 24 1995 15:008
    One non-skid approach, which will cost a little money, is to add
    interlux's nonskid to the last coat of polyurthane. (SP?) I did this on
    my cabin sole and never had a problem. For the companion way ladder I
    used some of the English non-skid material. (Decking material one glues
    down). It is hard on the feet but you will not slip, at least that was
    my experience.
    
                      Bill                 
510.16TERRPN::FINANThe sky was yellow and the sun was blueThu May 25 1995 11:058
    I covered the step down from the companion way and the cabin
    teak floorboards that I had just refinished with a clear
    plastic carpet/floor runner.  The runner is ribbed so its not 
    slippery, it protects the floors and at 62 cents per foot from 
    Home Depot was pretty inexpensive.  Looks pretty nice too!
    
    Robyn