| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 295.1 | use a crane and slings | PULSAR::BERENS | Alan Berens | Mon May 05 1986 18:21 | 9 |
| I cannot think of a safe way for you to lift the entire boat -- safe for
you or the boat. You really need a crane and slings. My suggestion is
have someone with a crane and slings launch the boat for you (there are
a couple of places in Marblehead). While the boat is in the slings,
finish painting the bottom and keel. If you negotiate the extra time
required for this, there should be no problem.
We use a roller -- faster and I think uses less paint.
|
| 295.2 | | GRAMPS::WCLARK | Walt Clark | Mon May 05 1986 18:38 | 20 |
| Getting to all the bottom while a boat is on a trailer depends
a lot on the trailer. If you have rollers, you can paint around
them then move the boat silghtly aft or forward with the boat or
trailer winch. If it is a float off trailer (pads but not rollers)
you will have to jack the boat up from the trailer. Check with
the local yards to see what a couple hours hang time in a sling
(as recommended in .1) will set you back. This is the safest way
to do it. A lot of yards use stands for winter storage that might
also be rentable or could be borrowed for a few hours (lets say
your boat brought to their yard). These have adjustment screws
which if raised a couple inches each and repeated could get the
boat up for painting (check with the yard for precautions and
safety chains). I still think the yard sling is the best bet.
I have used painting pads and rollers both. The roller is faster
but I feel as though I have greater control with thinned paints
with a pad.
Walt
|
| 295.3 | why bottom paint a trailerable? | OBIWAN::MARKOWITZ | | Thu Oct 23 1986 21:32 | 23 |
| I have a 21' shoal draft cat-rigged sailboat that is slipped on
a fresh water lake in new jersey. We were going to bottom paint
it for purely esthetic reasons - the blue hull wold look good with
micron red bottom paint.
however, two issues were pointed out. one, if there is no salt
water creature attacking the boat, as in you trailer the boat or
you're in fresh water, why bottom paint at all. two, with bottom
paint on, it makes the yearly cleaning of algae a more difficult
job.
we finally decided not to bottom paint. interesting though, when
we tried to get under the trailer [no rollers, just carpeted 2 x
4 supports, we could not do it safely without the risk of acid in
the eyes. we had to have stern hooks aided and the boat lifted
up by the box and stern hooks. with no sling in the way, you can
clean it or paint it very rapidly.
good luck
joe
|
| 295.4 | So how did it turn out?? | STAR::SAFDIE | | Fri Oct 24 1986 13:08 | 9 |
|
RE: .0
I would like to know how you eventually resolved your problem, as
I am faced with the exact same (Catalina 22 - swing keel) problem.
Did you jack it or use .1's sling launch approach? How effective
was the end product? Any tips appreciated.
charlie
|
| 295.5 | Fresh Water or Salt? | GING::GINGER | | Mon Oct 27 1986 17:09 | 13 |
| .3 says something about not needing bottom paint because the boat
was only used on fresh water. I grew up on the great lakes and we
sure need bottom paint there- lots of things grew on the bottom-
different things than in salt water maybe but none the less lots
of bottom growth.
I think the real important difference is the time in the water-
a trailer boat that is only in the water for a day or two at a time
might not need bottom paint, but one in the water for even a few
weeks at a time sure does.
|
| 295.6 | We jacked it up | TORCH::CHEEVER | | Wed Oct 29 1986 10:50 | 18 |
| We built two cross braces (3 2x4's) and placed them crosswise at each
end of the boat as close to the middle as we could and still clear the
cradle boards. Before we started we uncranked the keel as far as
it would go so that as the boat went up, more and more of the keel was
exposed while it stayed in its cradle. We jacked it up using cement
blocks. We toyed with the idea of pulling out the trailer to make
painting underneath easier, but quickly saw that it wasn't a very
safe idea. Dick did the lion's share of the work and says he would
do it again.
POSTCRIPT
We used Micron 33 and were very pleased with it. The only thing
we would do differently is define a more liberal waterline area
than the Catalina markings (especially in the transom area)
Mary
|
| 295.7 | Bottom Painting your swing keel Catalina 22 | CAMLOT::BLAISDELL | | Tue Jul 28 1987 15:17 | 41 |
| Searching this notes file for information on another subject, I just
rediscovered this note.
It happens that I also own a Catalina 22 and this year I stripped old paint,
put on four coats of Interlux barrier coat plus two coats of bottom paint -
without the help of a hoist, but with help from several experienced friends.
What my friends did and what I have done is to build an extra large sawhorse
that just fits under the stern with the trailer lowered at the bow. The
cross-piece of the sawhorse is a 2x12 and is cut out along one edge to exactly
fit the stern just behind the trailer bunkers. The sawhorse legs are built
from 2x6s. Except for being a lot beefier, the construction details are
similar to sawhorses often seen as crowd control or construction barriers.
The trailer is then jacked up at the tongue until the stern settles on the
sawhorse and is lifted two or three inches off the bunkers at the stern. You
will need something better than a tongue jack to do this, in my case a bottle
jack. A few cautions: 1) block the trailer tires, 2) put a plank underneath
the sawhorse legs to prevent them from digging into soft ground or asphalt,
and 3) back off a couple turns on the keel cable to avoid lifting the full
weight of the keel.
The boat still needs to be lifted clear of the forward ends of the bunkers and
the bow rollers. This is done by jacking up the boat from a point just
forward of the keel. I again used a bottle jack and jacked against a 3 ft
length of 2x4 fitted to hull. Another caution: remember to loosen the trailer
cable or you will be lifting the trailer together with the boat.
The result is that the boat is lifted 2-3 inches clear of the bunkers over
their full length, allowing the boat to be easily painted. Being extra
cautious, I also used movable spacers between the boat and bunkers when
sanding and painting in that area.
Depending on your trailer configuration, the sawhorse and keel jack are also
useful for removing the keel. Building the sawhorse and keel jack require a
big investment in time; but, once done, jacking the boat up requires less than
15 minutes.
- Bob
Catalina 22 #11684
|
| 295.8 | Need help/advise re. bottom-painting | ISLNDS::BURNHAM | JACK BURNHAM | Thu Jun 10 1993 16:51 | 15 |
| I just bought a 1986 O'Day 222 that was used on a lake. The hull is in
excellent shape and very clean. I will be sailing it in salt water. It
needs to have bottom paint for the first time ever. Do I need to sand
the bottom lightly before painting? Should I be doing anything else?
Also, this boat has a retractable keel which the book says to paint as
well. The boat is on a trailer. You can guess what my problem is! Has
anyone out there figured out how to do that? Do you really need to
paint the retractable keel? Also, I need to put a ship-to-shore antenna
on the mast and some how run a wire from the radio to the maststep. Any
advise as to how to do that before I start drilling holes in the
cabin?
Regards,
Jack Burnham
|
| 295.9 | An idea I got from reading notes | VOYAGR::SAMPSON | Driven by the wind | Fri Jun 11 1993 09:44 | 58 |
| I have a 22 foot S2 and do the bottom eavry April. I use a method
very similar to that described in .7. With the help of a friend who
renovates houses we built the "saw horses" like a doorway header. Mine
are built to be disassembled and the top part of the header is cut to
match the contour of the hull at a hight which has my waterline
approximately level when the boat is up in the air. This is the 4th
season I've done it and though nervous every time, it continues to
work.
Basicly I put the trailer tounge on the ground and then jack it up
at the axel. With the stern stand assembled I slide that under the boat
to a point about 1/4 in from the stern. Then I let the axel back down
to the ground and lift the tounge in the air until the waterline is a
littl bow high. The bow stand is assembled under the boat withing the
forward area of trailer and set at a poin about a quarter of the LOA
back from the bow. When I let the jack down and the boat is sitting
nicely in it's custom wooden cradle I breath a sigh of relief and get
ready to sand. by the way, I sand the areas where the stands will go
befor I lift the boat off the trailer.
To perform the feet I have a 2-1/4 ton, mechanic type, service
jack, two 3-ton solid jack stands (not the stamped & formed sheet meal
type) and a wide variety of wodden blocks to build up on the jack so I
can get the necessary height on the bow.
An approximate 3 view drawing of the stand we built woul look like:
Cradle contour here
| | |\ /|
top down view-> |=========| Front view | \ / |
| | | / \ |
|/ ^ ^ \|
Cross braces
|
End view |
/|\
___/_|_\___
The ends are built with double 2x4s, the cross braces with single
2x4s and the header/cradle of 1/4 inch plywood sandwiching pieces of
2x4 making up a frame.
The method works very well for me and I have urethaned the stand
parts to protect them from the weather. We through bolt the cradle to
the ends with a notch cut out so the plywood is resting more on a 2x4
than on the bolts.
I can't pull the trailer out from under the boat, but I still get
the job done. An advantage to the not pullin the trailer out is that if
something crumbled the boat will be more likely to survive better
landing on the trailer than the pavement. And if I'm underneath during
the crumble (not something I want to test but) I probably have a better
chance of not getting crushed.
I don't put the keel down until the boat is up. I do feel its
necessary to paint the keel. I however, have a dagger board and if I
want to really go to town on the keel I can just get it lifted out of
the boat with the help of a chain fall and an 18 foot ceiling.
It works for me
Geoff
|
| 295.10 | Do you really have to ? | CCAD17::DUKE | | Sun Jun 13 1993 22:03 | 15 |
| Jack,
I leave mine in the sea for up to 8 weeks and have never bothered to paint
the bottom. I leave a good cover of polish and wax on the bottom and when
I take the boat out I give it a good scrub.
How long will you be off the trailer ? If its only for say 2 months I would not
bother. Once you start painting it really has to continue. It really hard to
remove and if the boat is resold then it is a negative.
I spend about 6 to 8 weeks each year with mine in the water. Once or twice
during that time I give it a scrub by swimming under it. I have seen the effect
of painting the bottom on sale values here - it lowers them a lot.
Mike
|