| I am in the process of repowering my Pearson Coaster with a new Volvo. I
spent a lot of time collecting literature etc. that I would be happy
to lend to you. All of the common engines seem to be good, I tried to stay away
from high RPM engines (Yanmar, Kaboda) because of noise, and engines that
cant be hand started. All of the wholesale distributors will give a 20%
discount if you are installing the engine yourself.
I have a 12 HP Furriman that I took out of my boat. It needs some parts. There
are some new, but old model Yanmars at Mack Boreing for $1.4.
Larry Twaits
223-6203
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| re. .0
I'd think you'd have a large selection of dealers right there in Fairhaven/New
Bedford. Yanmar's distributor, Mack Boring, has a facility right near Braintree
Five Corners (which is fairly close to 128). They have a couple models in the
range you're considering. I'm pretty sure 10HP is going to restrict you to one
cylinder models for all manufacturers. I don't know if you can get 2 cylinder
models in the 18HP range
Ed
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| Peter,
If you're still looking for material... I came across two
brochures that you might find helpful. One is for the 9 hp Yanmar and
the other is for Volvo's 3 small diesels. The small Volvo's a few
inches larger in most dimensions than the small Yanmar and weighs about
100 lbs more. BUT... it runs 4-500 rpm slower than the Yanmar and is
more powerful. I think it also uses less fuel but I may have read the
chart incorrectly. One big factor for me would be service and the local
dealer, Landfall Marine in Weymouth is just around the corner. Now,
if the Volvo will fit...
Ed
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| I ran a Yanmar 8HP (YSM8) for about 5 years in a 25' sloop we owned.
Here are my recollections:
The engine never failed to start and loved to be run near full throttle
(most diesels - like the FWC Universal we have now - much prefer
1/2 to 2/3 max).
The engine was very strong for 8HP and the engine - gearbox was
nearly indestructible. We once fouled our broken headstay in
the prop, although it initially died, I restarted the engine and
forced it into forward - it broke the headstay in two and allowed
us to make port.
Yanmars are cold blooded. They never do warm up much and most boat
makers using Yanmars dont even bother to connect the engine cooling
water to the water heater. I talked with Irwin and Siedelmann factory
people about this (their water heater had the coils installed but
n/c) and they both said the engine just doesnt build up enough heat to
provide any.
One lungers are extremely rough at low RPM - so maybe the high RPM
is of some benefit.
The YSM8 could be safely run at angles of heel up to 35 degrees.
This is nice to know if you are using the engine to help make progress
against a stiff breeze and chop. My present engine (Universal)
cautions against running the engine for extended periods if the
heel is above 20 degrees.
I had a problem with mine that Mack-Boring said was a recognised
low % problem. At certain engine RPM the lube oil being tossed around
by the crank shaft would almost atomize, and travel up the crankcase
vent tube to the engine air intake (no filter). The engine would
run on this (really bad and smoking like mad) and the engine was
difficult to shut down (I usually had to open the compression release)
once it started. I solved this by putting an automotive PVC valve
in the tube. I dont know if Yanmar ever bothered to ECO a solution.
The salt water cooling proved a hassle the 2nd year, when I found
the block mounted zinc had corroded in place. I never did get it
out.
I found I had to remove, clean and reinstall the IC voltage regulator
on the Mitsubishi alternator each season to prevent a carbon/oil
film build up across the regulator terminals from discharging the
engine battery when the boat sat unattended. Before I found the
problem, I had a fully charged battery drop to the point where it
would not turn the engine over in the span of 5 days.
I also had to replace the fuel injector after the 3rd season due
to some bad fuel. A tank of bad fuel could haunt you a long time
at 3hours/gal @ hull speed.
The above represents all the problems over 5 years - not too bad
in my estimation.
I have a model 25 Universal in my current boat, and have found I
prefer the FWC system to seawater cooling. I also suspect the FWC
engines are a little tighter and quieter than seawater cooled. This
is the only area that merits direct comparison, since the 25 is
a 3 cylinder with 3 times the rated power it is much smoother and
stronger than the 8.
I hope some of this may be of help.
Walt
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