Conference unifix::sailing

Eric,
e and almost certainly impossible without that special righting system. On the
other hand sailing these things is pure magic especially once you master the
trapeze.
  If you can put off your decision a few weeks the local Hobbie fleet is
putting on a learn to sail weekend on 4/5th of May near Falmouth and apparently
one of the dealers is going to be available with boats for people to try. There
are quite a few Hobbie sailors in DEC so I am sure you will get a number of
responses, but if you want giv me a call on 231-7335
                                                              Bill.

re. -1
This learn-to-sail weekend must be a part of an Outward Bound Program, right?

You guys (applies to both genders) are gonna freeze!! Couldn't you wait
until June or until the water temp gets above 27? 

Good luck!!

ED-who-thinks-water-is-for-floating-boats

hi there

bill and me are already ready to do some damage.

16's are lighting with two pontoons. without a jib they are really a
bitch to tack as there is no weight to get any momentum . I have had mine
out alone, but you are best to buy one of those saftey balls that attach to
the top for righting.

i hope you are going to buy a wetsuit, it really get chilly out there once you
get wet( you will get wet, hit a couple of wave like on t.v. and you will think
you are sailing under the water instead of on top of it.) 

if you give me you mailstop, i'll send you a fleet 28 application.

john

I almost forgot, you should check the bottom of the boat for damage as
that is where it usually occurs. If it is only scrathed up, it is no
real problem to fixxing it. If on the other hand the tramp supports are
cracked up a great deal, you may wish to walk away from the deal.

also check to see if it comes with any extra gear. things like harken
hardware, a double harness, trick rudders etc will tell you the owner
knew how to use the boat. ask to look at the sails and check how much they
have been soiled or worn esspecially where the side stays touch it.

check the rivits all over the place. although a shop can replace them, it
will give you an idea whether or not the boat has been abused.

also check the trailer it is on. since most people trailer their boats to
events, make sure the frame is ok, the wiring works and the bearing are ok.
i just opened mine up and found one of the bearing rusted solid. best to
find out before hand.

If you want, i have bought and excellant text by jake grubb on the sport.
it contains everything you ever wanted to know. you may wish to borrow or
buy a couple of back issues of hobielife at various shops. these are real
helpful in teaching the basics.

Finally, do try out the learn to sail class that bill was talking about.
I taught myself to sail that baby, but damn near got killed with it on the
cape the first time. The speed that a 16 can move is really something else
(eqv to a 750 + motorcycle for sensation of speed).

I bought my 16 last fall and have read everything i could on it. If you
know what to expect, it makes the learning curve much easier.

If i can be of any help, let me know

john
		dtn 288-6958

If you're new to sailing, you might wish to consider how much faster cats move
(and accelerate) than monohulls, even Sunfishes.  This means more anticipation
and much quicker reaction times are required, and thus more reliance on
experience and reflexes.  

Also, cats (of all boat types) are the most difficult to turn -- you give up a
lot of maneuverability in exchange for hull shape(s) that quick.  As a previous
reply suggested, this plus the boat's lightness mean you can get caught in
stays rather easily, and if it happens while you are tacking out of the way of
a tug or fishing boat....   Definitely learn to use the jib, especially how to 
back it to get out of irons.

Yes, self-righting short-handed is work, and in rough seas or higher winds, 
requires some real thought and occasionally cleverness, not to mention weight &
muscle.  But you can learn.  Start with a friend aboard if you can, and try an
intentional controlled capsize in a safe, deep area in lighter weather.
Remember that when the wind is up and you're screaming along in a seaway,
you're more likely to pitchpole than roll over. 

re: -1... Do those mast-top floatation balls really work?  Having turtled a 
Hobie 14 once, it's hard to imagine a ball less than 18" in diameter doing 
much good, other than spoiling the aerodynamics.  Aquacats used to have them, 
and I may be wrong, but I wonder. 

Having taught sailing on and off for twenty years, I wouldn't encourage you to
rush into it if you have hesitations.  But if you're determined to get out
there, have some courage, and are into speed, go for it.  It's an above-average
thrill for below-average admission. 

John.

(I second the motion for a wetsuit, at least a farmer-john -- best flotation 
and anti-hypothermia gear you can have!) 

In response to 5.
John - part of my earlier response went astray but the one man righting
system I have installed is a method of pulling a pin which lengthens the
side stay which is out the water (assuming the boat has nnot gone completely
turtle). This supposedly allows the top hull to angle over just enough
to add to your weight on pulling the boat over. I have never used mine
myself but keep them on for emergencies. A company called Brabhanson(?)
used to make a self inflating masthead balloon to get you up.
  going back to the things John K said to check for one of the most
important is that there are no leaks in the mast. It is made to float
with foam iserts etc. buut if someone has put in new unsealed rivets and you
get water in the mast you might as well forget trying to sail the right
way up.
  Go for a trial run with the seller if you can once you start flying
hulls you will hate winter with a passion.
                                                        Bill.

I've sailing Hobies, Prindles, and still own a NACRA 5.2 cat.  From this
experience, I'd say with no hesitation, avoid the Hobie 14 like the
proverbial plague.  The Hobie 14, even with a jib, is a kludgy boat: not
quite a one man boat in heavy winds, and not enough flotation support for
two large boats.

Whatever you do, buy a cat with a jib; without one, its a bitch to tack the
cat in irons or heavy winds.  While Hobies are certainly popular, the old
14's/16's suffer from a serious design flaw: they pitch-pole very easily.  The 
Hobie 18, Prindles, et. al. corrected this problem by beefing up the bow.  A
lot of 14/16 sailors overcompensate for this problem by placing too much weight
in the stern - resulting in poor fore/aft weight distribution.

Righting a Hobie 16 is a piece of cake once you learn the right technique: brutestrength has nothing to do with it.  I can easily right my NACRA (17') by myselfjust by (1)supporting the mast by attaching the life jackets to the mast head,
(2)righting the boat by slowly building up a rocking motion (waves actually
help).  If worse comes to worse, I suppose you could the sail down........

Get yourself a good book on cat sailing


















 and join a sailing association.  Cats
behave very differently from monohulls, but you'll get the hang of it pretty
soon and one-by-one, you're worst fears go away.  Once you learn how to sail
a cat, you'll realize that cats are actually more stable and more forgiving
than monohulls (just a lot faster and crazier).  

Get a wet suit soon.  As soon as the weather warms up - capsize the boat right
away (with a friend nearby) and get that part out of the way.... I love cat
sailing, but I'm looking forward to sailing on my new CAL 2-25..........

RPR

ANOTHER METHOD TO RIGHT A HOBIE IS TO ALWAYS CARRY A 12 FOOT 1/2 INCH
LINE ON BOARD. MOST PEOPLE TIE THEM TO THE DOLPHIN STRIKER UP FRONT OUT
OF THE WAY. YOU CAN ALSO USE THE MAIN SHEET, BUT IT ISN'T WORTH THE TIME
NEEDED TO UNTIE AND THEN RETIE THE SHEET WHEN THRU. 

ANYWAYS, TIE THE LINE TO THE FRONT AND READ PYLONS OF THE PONTOON STICKING
OUT OF THE WATER. IF NEITHER IS STICKING OUT, TIE IT TO THE ONE YOU WISH 
WOULD STICK OUT OF THE WATER. AFTER MAKING SURE THAT THE MAIN SHEET AND
JIB ARE LOOSE (NO NEED TO LIFT LOTS OF WATER , AND YOU DON'T WANT IT TO
GET AWAY FROM YOU WHEN COMPLETED), YOU JUST GRAB THE LINE AND LEAN OUT
WHILE BENDING YOUR KNEES IN TO GET UP A ROCKING MOTION. IT WILL BE SLOW
BUT IT WILL FINALLY COME UP FOR YOU. TO MAKE IT EASIER, SWIM THE BOAT 
AROUND UNTIL THE SAIL IS FACING THE WIND. ONCE THE WIND GETS UNDERNEATH
THE MAINSAIL, IT WILL HELP YOU RIGHT IT. AS THE SKYWARD PONTOON COMES DOWN,
PUT YOUR HAND UP AND GO UNDERWATER WHILE NOT LETTING GO OF THE LINE.
AS YOU SURFACE, YOU WILL BE READY TO GET BACK ON BOARD AND SHEET IN FOR
SOME POWER.

MAKE SURE THAT YOU SILCONE THE MAST AT THE BEGINING OF THE SEASON WITH
A GOOD SILICONE SEALER. THE MAST CAN EITHER HELP YOU, OR BE YOUR WORSE
PAL IN LIFE.

DON'T WORRY ABOUT PITCH-POLING TO BEGIN WITH, THE 16 IS PRETTY STABLE UNTIL
YOU REALLY START TO PUSH IT. IT IS A GREAT BEGINNER'S CAT SINCE YOU DON'T
HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT DAGGERBOARDS AND YOU CAN SAIL IT RIGHT UP ON THE BEACH
OR INTO VERY VERY SHALLOW WATER (NOT MUCH CONTROL THOUGH SINCE THE RUDDERS
WILL POP UP AND OUT OF THE WATER).

JOHN

I just wanted to thank everyone who responded to this note.  Of all the
notes I've ever seen, this is one of the most informative and supportive
in its replies.  All the info has helped me decide....  I think this
summer I will definately be among the ranks of cat sailers.  It will be
a good challange to learn and once I get proficient.... Look out!

Just a few asides:

I have already been looking into wetsuits, and I agree that a farmer John
is probably the best choice.  



As to liking speed, danger, etc.....  I drive a 750 motorcycle with headers,
(yes, it definately accelerates), ski anything you can strap on your feet,
and love anything that's close to flying (and if hanging off the edge of a
cat in a trapeze while the thing is standing on end isn't flying....what the
hell is?!?!)

John commented on "Fleet 28" application.... Just what is fleet 28?  I'm
afraid I've never heard of it.

Finally, regarding responce #7,  just how old is "old"?  The cat I'm interested
in is a 1979.  Design flaws or not, it sound like a good craft, but I never
turn down information that may help eventually.

Thanks again...  I will be in touch.

Sail On....        -Eric-

re: how old is old ..........

Boats age in a variety of ways: no use, misuse, and use.  Besides this maxim,
a cat ages in different ways:

	- 1  Sails can be expected to last about 5 years (and they are costly
	     to replace.

	- 2  The trampoline can be expected to last about 5 years (if you are
	     lucky) and you may need to have it restitched after 3 years.

	- 3  The rudders get "spongy" after a season or two and may need
	     adjustment.  Too many dings in the blades warrants replacement.

	- 4  Check out the bottom of the pontoons very carefully: this will
	     tell you something as to the use/misuse patterns.  If they are
	     deeply gouged, you may have to have some gel work done.

	- 5  A Hobie sailed in the ocean takes more abuse than one sailed
	     in a lake (usually).  Hobies chronically get spongy where the
	     trampoline fits into the pontoons.  If they are spongy, you
	     may have real problems.

Regards,

RPR

Over this last weekend I got to inspect the Hobie 16 that I'm interested in.
Keeping in mind all the things everyone has mentioned to look for, I've 
found nothing wrong with the boat.  The tramp supports are solid as a rock,
the hulls have few scratches and then they aren't through the gel-coat, the
sails are in great shape (including the stitching), the lines and hardware
are all in good shape (although a few plastic pulleys look a bit weathered),
the trailer is fine and includes a spare, etc....  In general it looks very
good.  As far as where it has been sailed... only in fresh water for four
seasons.

But one thing I wasn't quite ready for,  the seemingly incredible amount of
cables and hardware required to hold everything together. (Remember, I come
from sailing Sunfish so two pullies is extensive.)  I'm not intimidated by
complexity, but what I'm concerned about is the time and effort to rig the
thing from trailed state to "lets get wet".  

What I'm getting at is this:  I have a camp right on Lake Champlain.  Every
summer we always have boats on hoists, but we have no gradual beach till 
very late in the season.  There is a place where I could trailer the cat to,
but overhead lines mean the mast would have to come down to get it there
(about a half mile).  I'd like to keep the cat in the water and mostly 
rigged, so only the sails would have to be put on before sailing.  A mooring
sounds nice, but I've been told the mast without the sails isn't as tighlty
held in place, and in strong waves all the hardware takes a beating.

Has anyone moored a cat before?  Where do you attach the line?  Weight of
anchor?  Specifics?

If I didn't moor it, how bad is it to completely rig a 16' from off the 
trailer (time wise) and unfortunately getting into the water requires two
people....right??

I think the boat is a good deal, but I'm caught up in the details of getting
it wet.  Advice anyone?

Thanks again,
                          -Eric-

Trailering/rigging, once you get the hang of it, takes about 30-45 minutes;
I alway detested it - so much so, that I won't put up with it anymore (I've
since moved on to smaller (wind surfer) and larger (25') craft).

Suggestion:  why don't you consider buying a Laser or Laser clone (Force 5).
Lasers set up in minutes.  One person can easily drag the boat up and down
a beach and the set up the mast (which is telescoping in 3 pieces).  The mast
requires no stays and the mainsail slips over the mast (instead of up it).  
The Laser is a deceptively simple boat --- and yet quite competitive and
crazy.

The Force-5 is a broader Laser which is more fun for 2 people.  The major
drawback to this boat is there in no racing class (it just never caught on).
Too bad - the boat is a superior design (I've raced both in College).

Finally, the Laser-II is a slightly larger version of the laser - this
time with a stayed single-piece mast and jib.  This boat is an excellent
beginner or experienced racer boat.  It also supports a double trapeze and
spinnaker.

I suggest these boats as alternatives to catamarans.  They are less
expensive, easier to learn on, and very wild/crazy boats.  There's a
dealer in Nashua who has the best prices (look in the phone book if
you're interested).  Prices are something like this (around the boat
show):

	- Laser ........ $1950.00 less trailer or car top carrier
	- Laser-II ..... $2800.00 less trailer/spinnaker gear
	- Force-5 ...... $2100.00 less trailer

Used Laser go for 600-1800.00.  Hope this helps.  If not, just buy the
Hobie, stop worrying, buy a book or two, blunder, and you'll figure it
out.

RPR

I'm new to this notes file... I noticed this note, but there hasn't been
any activity for a month... strange...

Anyway, I have a Hobie 16' Special ed., and I LOVE IT!  It only take me and
my girlfriend 20 minutes to rig/unrig it from the trailer to the water.
We've got it down pat.. just takes a few weekends at Newport to practice.

I noticed that someone in 92.8 mentioned silicon on the mast... what does
this refer to?  If you mean for lubrication, I wholeheartedly agree..

I've turtled my Hobie in 3' to 4' seas and righted it with NO trouble at
all... fortunately, I had the help of a friend as crew...  the extra
weight makes all the difference (so does enjoying the whole ordeal, rather
than being anxious)...

Dan

RE: 92.13
THE SILICONE IS A CLEAR WATERPROOF SEALER MUCH LIKE THE THE KIND USED AROUND
THE VALVE GASKET IN YOUR CAR. I FIND THE MARINE QUALITY ABOUT TWICE AS
EXPENSIVE, BUT IT CAN REALLY TAKE A BEATING. YOU SQUEASE ENOUGH AROUND
THE RIVITS, BASE AND HEAD TO MAKE THE MAST WATERPROOF.

AS FOR LUBRICATION, DO NOT USE SILICONE OR GREASE AS THESE WILL ONLY 
DRAW DIRT. WHAT YOU NEED IS A PACKAGE OF NYLON PADS THAT LOOK LIKE
SPACERS WITHOUT HOLES. YOU INSERT THIS INTO THE MAST HOLDER BEFORE MASTING
EACH TIME. THE WEIGHT OF THE MAST WILL MOLD IT TO THE CORRECT SHAPE. IT CAN
BE USED OVER AND OVER UNTIL YOU WEAR A HOLE IT IT. THEY GO ABOUT $1.50 EACH
SO MOST OF US BUY A COUPLE IN THE SPRING AND PUT THEM IN THE SAIL BAG.

IF YOU DO NOT USE ONE YOU WILL HAVE A LOT OF WEAR BETWEEN THE MAST AND
THE MAST SUPPORT. AT ABOUT $70 TO REPLACE (NOT INCLUDING LABOR), IT IS
CHEAPER TO GET THE PADS. THEY WILL ALSO HELP TACKING IN LIGHT AIR SINCE
THE MAST WILL SWIVEL EASIER.

AS TO THE QUESTION ABOUT WIRES, A CAT IS DESIGN TO GO FAST , NOT BE SIMPLE
TO RIG. YOU CAN SAVE A LOT OF TIME BY LEAVING THE MAIN STAYS ON AND RUNNING
THEM DOWN THE MAST. YOU THEM HOLD THEM IN PLACE WITH A COUPLE OF BUNGIE CORDS.

A LOT OF RACERS COLOR CODE THEIR LINES AND WIRES TO MAKE ASSEMBLY AND
OPERATION EASIER. THIS IS BECAUSE A LOT OF THEM HOOK UP EXTRA LINES SO
THAT THEY CAN MAKE ADJUSTMENTS OUT ON THE WIRE DURING THE RACE WITHOUT
HAVING TO COME BACK IN ON THE TRAMPOLINE.

JOHN

AS TO THE QUESTION ABOUT MOORING A CAT, THE ANSWER IS DON'T DO IT UNLESS
YOU HAVE TO. IF YOU DO, PLACE A LARGE BUNGIE CORD BETWEEN THE TWO SIDE
STAYS TO KEEP TENSION ON THEM. YOU SHOULD ALSO REPLACE THE STANDING RIGGING
EVERY YEAR IF YOU DO MOOR THE BOAT AS THE MOTION IS REALLY ROUGH ON THE
WIRES. YOU SHOULD ALSO CHECK THE STAYS EACH TIME OUT AS A SNAPED STAY WHILE
TRAPPED OUT IS AKIN TO BEING A HUMAN FISHING LURE SINCE THE KNOCKDOWN WILL
TRY TO FLIP YOU TO THE OTHER SIDE OF THE BOAT. THIS CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS 
AND COULD DO DAMAGE TO YOU SAILS, THE BOAT, OR EVEN THE CREW.

JOHN

    It's been a while since the last reply, but I have a thought about
    mooring. If you attach the jib sheets to the cleats on either side
    of the mast and cinch these tight, the mast will not rotate back
    and forth in the waves, and a lot of wear can be avoided.
    
                           Have a Hobie Day,
                                    Jeff Johnsen
    

    re  .15
    
    
       The problem is not with wearing on the mast step. I have used
    the same standard mast bearing for a season without wearing a hole
    in it, But the boat is on a float. This make the catamaran act like
    a small monohull at rest. 
    
        If a catamaram gets sideways to the action
    of the waves, first one hull rises to go over the wave. This causes
    the mast to lean toward the leeward side. Then the first hull starts
    coming down the wave which causes the mast to start moving in the
    opposite direction quickly. at the same time the second hull starts
    coming up the wave pushing the mast that much more. This is followed
    by the first hull going up again. The leverage being exerted from
    the mast to the boat is quite high and it is constantly pulling
    on the sidestays which are nothing more than 1x19 wire with nico-press
    fittings. (this is the reason they tell light catamaran sailors to
    set the mast rake backward. not only does it help create a fuller
    sail shape, it also makes it less likely for the boat to pitchpole
    going downwind because the mast will not create so much leverage
    that the flyweights can't hold the back of the boat in the water).
    The rotating mast is not going to help the situation, and sooner or
    later, a stay failure will happen. 
    
       The best way to understand the problem is to get your cat out
    in 3 to 5 foot chop and just sit around (like between races at a
    regatta). the bouncing around will amaze you.
    
       By now some of you are saying "but the boat will always be headed into 
    the waves on a mooring". But the problem is that the forestay is doing the
    same routine. In fact, the weakest link on the Hobie rigging
    is considered to be the 6 inch pigtail between the mast and the
    forstay. It is short and has very little give in it. Even when used
    as a trailered boat, the pigtail should be replaced every two seasons
    even if it looks good. Sounds too early but it is not worth the
    hassles. If you lose the jibstay, the forestay backs you up. If
    you lose a sidestay under sail, the mast blows away from you. If
    you are on the trapeze wire, you get turned into a large spinner
    bait for a couple of seconds. But the mast is always headed away
    from you. Should the pigtail fail, that mast is coming down on you
    and in a hurry. Now then, some of you are saying to tighten up the
    rig a bit. But you can't. If you take all the slop out of the rigging
    several bad things happen. First the mast will not rotate correctly
    causing an already lousy tacking boat to become worse. Secondly,
    you will cause the hulls to bow outward under sail slowing down
    the boat because it now acting like a car with it's wheels pointed
    WAY in toward each other. Finally, you will probably shatter the
    mast in the first good blow, as the mast can no longer bend correctly.
    When they blow out, it is at the 4 foot high level usually and the
    sucker is going to come after you.
                                
    
       Hope this helps.  Also, always check you wires after
    a day's sail. I got done at a regetta one day, and was wrapping the
    sidestays when i cut my hand wide open. I was down to two of the
    1x19 wires. I was glad I didn't stay out in the harbor any longer,
    and have learned to go through all my equipment before and after each
    use. (lesson 2 is always were you sailing gloves when rigging or
    unrigging the boat as it makes it easy on the hands).
    
    john
             
    john

    
        HOBIE CAT has really been at it revising their lineup over the past
    2 years. In that time, they have created the Hobie 17, and high tech
    single handed sailor for folks who have trouble getting crew, but want
    a boat that doesn't bob around like a Hobie 14.
    
         The HOBIE 21 which is a rocket ship. The list price has gone up
    1500 bucks since introduction because they cannot keep up with demand.
    A three man boat with wings, Spinaker, and pull apart cross bars, this
    very complex boat is also very fast, making it the b feature at the
    PRO-SAIL events.
    
         And now there is the Hobie 18 formula. Take one super reliable
    Hobie 18, add the maginum wings, increase the mast about 6 feet, 
    lengthen all the stays to go up about an extra 4 feet, add LOTS more
    sail area, make those sails out of vertically cut mylar with battens,
    and you have a new Formula 18! I got my first peek at one this weekend
    from a fellow who upgraded his brand new 18 with a new mast, sails and
    wings. The guy was laughing and drooling all over himself after the
    first run. The boat was impressive. It looks to be a poor man's version
    of the 21. I called up for a price today, we are talking $7798 new.
    If you were looking for more speed than your 16 or 18 could give you,
    you may wish to take a look at the formula.
    
       john 
    

    
    
         Well, I have gotten 3 days of sailing on my new Hobie Formula
    under my belt. Overall impression is of awe. This is a no holes barred
    racing boat. Do not buy this puppy for family use. Buy a 16 or standard
    18 instead.
    
    Details
    
        I picked up a US Nationals boat. It had 5 days of use on it, but it
    was 30% off the list price. It has beautiful graphics on the sides and
    some bizzare light purple and dayglo yellow/green sails made by Neil
    Pride under contract to Hobie . I have been
    told they can be seen from 1 1/2 miles in a fog! Oh well, at least the
    folks know its me!
    
       The mast is actually only 18 inches taller, but this all adds up to
    an additional 25 square feet of sail. The production formula is all
    white with white anodized aluminum frame, mast, boom. white trap,
    rudders, daggerboards, and sail. Strikingly clean if a bit homely.
    
      The extra 80 lbs (appx 400 lbs) is noticeable when moving it. It
    trailers much better than my old hobie 16. Putting it together is
    a bear as it is big and I do not have a procedure to speed the process 
    as of yet. The mast is a monster as it is close to 30 ft tall, has
    diamond wires jutting out from the sides, and rotates easily on it's
    mast bearing. The sail attachment at the top is a pain, as they used
    the Austalian latch ring, but used a new type of hook at the top. I
    hope Hobie will come out with a new ring in the near future, as I hear
    most people are having problems having the sail hook up correctly. They
    do come down nicely. Getting the mylar jib around roller furling is
    still a job, as no matter how you try to do it, the jib tries to flail 
    you to death until you get it up and rolled. Try and put it sheet it in
    with a bit of angle to the wind, and it will lift the boat even if it
    is on sand or on it's trailer.  All in all, it is a lot of
    work compared to a 16 to put together and to take apart. 
    
    Once on the water, it makes up for it's shortcomings with an air that
    is reserved for classic machinery. It is very quiet and stable. It
    tacks on a dime and leaves nine cents change. Just sheet in at the last
    moment and turn the tiller. The boat comes out of the water pivoting on
    it's center board. you then release the sheet, the sails fill, and 
    away you go. Down wind it is extremely stable and fast. The first time
    out, I entered it in a regatta with another formula 18 and some pro
    race hobie 21s with wings (mine haven't arrived yet) and spinakers. I
    made hay of the 21s going downwind without the spinaker. I can't wait to
    get my windbag for some more speed.
    
    The boat points very well, but you really need to watch it,as once she
    starts to fly a hull, it doesn't take much to flip it on it's side.
    Unlike a 16 where in an emergency the skipper releases the main and
    prepares to get wet when the boat drops out of the sky like a rock, the
    formula will keep on going over. The jib is so much larger that it
    has more than enough power to take you swimming if your crew is not
    quick with the jib sheet. It 12-20 knots of wind, this boat hauls butt.
    
    In light airs, it is much better than a 16 because of the higher
    profile sails, daggerboards vs ineffeicient hulls, lots more sail area.
    A trick is to pull the windward rudder in light airs as the
    centerboards are doing all the work, and this gets rid of a great deal
    of drag. Going to weather is a breeze because the rudders do not fight
    you. The drawback is you must remember to bring them up in shallow
    water and to be on the lookout for lobster bouys as they sure make a
    lot of racket when you hit them. 
    
    Acceleration is slower then a 16 for about .5 - 1 second. Once it picks
    up any momentum, hang on, because it is show time. It accellerates from 
    there to some pretty impressive speeds. In heavy airs, you really need
    the magnum wing extentions for power the boat around. I was out in 30+
    knot winds sunday with 2 other people. The seas were too rough trapping
    as the spray hitting the hulls was flying 10-12 feet into the air
    blinding the crew. we never got near 80% power (travelers out, loose sail,
    never got near sheeting in tight) because of the fear of trying to sail
    that puppy in the COLD atlantic. I don't know what the performance
    envelope of her is yet, but I think it will take a year or so to really
    find out (My kind of learning experience).
    
    I then took it out only with my normal crew. The winds got real tricky
    as a second front was causing veers of 80 degrees every couple of
    minutes. I got caught napping and flipped it when my crew could sheet
    out fast enough (Boy that water was was really COLD).The Hobie just about
    rights herself to the point of being scary. the first time, the wind
    got under the sail as we righted her. She started straight downwind as
    I jumped on from behind and tryed to get control of her. The
    acceleration immediately caused a cartwheel causing another rude
    meeting with Mr. Ocean.  The second time, we furled the jib (not needed
    to right boat), and she came up quickly, but was managable. I would
    have hated to pull such a manunuer with rookies.
    
    All in All, a very unforgiving vessel, so if you are a light weight, do
    not go out in a heavy blow without a sister cat for safety reasons.
    
    So then, easy to trailer, hard to assemble, extremely fast and
    demanding. Would I go back to my 16 ?   NEVER. I intend to learn this
    cat as well as my last one as I know half my problems are related to
    inexperience. The addition of wings will give us the height and
    leverage we need for such a boat. I'll report back when we have the
    configuration together.
    
    
       As for the regatta, I beat the other formula easily, and almost took
    down a 21 to boot. The formula chap was pissed when he saw he paid 30
    percent more than me, and then I blew his doors off after he showed me
    how to put the boat together. I have a rematch coming up in 3 weeks and
    I intend on doing a real horizon job on him then (Or as my crew says,
    "We were going to check the margin of victory, but we forgot to bring a
    calander on board".  I compare it to the Hobie 21. Same basic design,
    only a little smaller and less complicatated.
    
    Impressive boat for experienced heavier sailors.
    
      john

    re .19
    
    Sounds like my Tornado.  Any comments on how Tornados and Hobies
    compare?
    
    Richard

    Richard
    
        NAMSA ratings give the Tornados a rating of .640  . The SX-18 has
    a rating of .710, so the Tornados looks faster. Comfort wise, I love
    my Magnum wings. Nice to just sit there instead of jumping around
    on a wire ALL the time ( I don't mind being out there an hour or so
    at a time). It is also much dryer.
    
       I have a feeling I will be going against some Tornados in the 
    New England 100 in a couple of weeks. Time will tell.
    
        john

    With some additional sailing time and a 70 miler under my belt, I can
now give a better appraisal of the Hobie sx18. The original sails by Neil
Pride were junk. They were cut too full, and the batten pockets
(velcro adjustments on the bottom looked like they came from a kid's
sneaker, the top was just a slot with a zipper so you couldn't adjust the
tension) were bizzare. I could not point as well as a standard 18. The
replacement sails by Hobie are much better. They use a different kind
of mylar, and the batten pockets are much more traditional. 

    We solved the jib sheet cleating problem with a set of Ochen blocks.
These blocks have some kind of an internal cam that operates like a window
shade. Pull once and they unlock, a second pull locks them right there.
They make operation in 25+ knot winds a lot easier, but they can cause a
bit of problem if tacking in light airs as sometimes a bit of interference
makes them think it is time to lock again. A second drawback is the price,
which is about 500 bucks. To me, it is an insurance policy in heavy airs as
we do push the boat hard. 

    A second accessory we added was a set of KISME TLC (tiller linkage
connectors). This is a automotive ball joint to connect the crossbar with
the rudder arms. Ussally they are used on non centerboard boats because
they deal with the abuse of all that weather helm on the rudders. We put a
set on the boat because we found we could still load up the connectors
(i.e. bend them in half without Uri Geller on board). This helped put a
much better feel into the tiller. At the same time, the fibre glass tiller
connector exploded, so we replaced the two jerk-water rivets with a single
stainless steel bolt. This has happened on other Hot Sticks I have owned. 

    Third we added windsurfer footstraps to the outside of the wings to
keep the crew on the boat. When the wind and waves pick up to the point
that you are trappeised out, there is a good chance you will be swept
off the boat as the extreme width and the low deck height have a tendency
of letting a wave break over you before the wave hits a hull and lifts the
boat. 

    Finally, we added a factory spinnaker. This consisted of a 320 sq ft
mylar spinnaker, al. spinnaker pole, and all the mounting hardware/sheets.
On a beam reach this makes the boat fly. I thought I had gone real fast
until we popped this puppy in Buzzards Bay last week. The boat kept going
faster and faster, but the sail shape pulled the bows up, so it had no bow
dive tendencies. Gybing it takes a lot of practice, at she will wrap in a
second. Since the pole is attached to the front of the boat, it is much
like a large genoa. I have not figured out how to use it effectively in
extra light air yet, so there is still some performance left. We use a
spinnaker bag that has openings on both sides of the boat to aid recovery.
A trick is to tape all the halyard and line connections knots to keep them
from hanging. We also tie the ends of the spinnaker clew with two different
length knots it keep from trying to pull both knots through to opening
together during a gybe.  A second trick to to attach small lines from
between the bows and the outside of the wings to keep the spinnaker from
becoming jammed on a take down or a gybe. 

    In light airs, the sx cannot point as high as a standard 18. This could
be because of extra weight. It will beam reach better and go downwind
better. From talking to people who have modified standard 18s, they say the
sx is a more powerful boat. 

    Assembly time is now down to about 45 min - 1 hour 15 min depending
upon whether we are going to use the spinnaker. The boat is extremely
balanced up and down wind with the new sails. It feels very neutral. The
mast is starting to look like a jungle with all the additional lines, but
we have replaced most of them with color coded sheets to lessen confusion. 

   As I have said in earlier notes, this is a racing boat. It is expensive,
hard to assemble, and intimidating in the wrong hands. But if you are in
for a speed rush, it is a smooth, fairly dry platform that loves winds above
7 knots. 

john 

   There is a new Hobie out. It is called the Hobie sport 17. It is a 
the standard Hobie 17 unirig with retractable centerboards, but it has
been fitted with a jib and the aluminum is painted various colors. It also
has a boomless mainsail much like some of the newer cat designs. A standard
harken hexarachet is attached to the traver, but the upper blocks are 
attached to a harden mini-traveler that is bolted to the rear of the sail.

   It is being marketed as a fun boat (ie not for competition) that is
faster than a 16 and easy to assemble. It is meant for two people and
has the standard wings with an extra set of trapeze wires.


john

	Rumor has it a new Hobie is due out in the late Spring. It will
marketed between the Hobie 18 SX and the Hobie 21. It is suppose to be a
new design with recreational sailor in mind.

	This will add fuel to the fire of the Hobie owner associations who
say you can't class race with so many kinds of boats. They have gone from
the 14, 16, and 18 to the 18 magnium, 18 SX,  21, 17, and 17 sport. Now 
another. 

	Hobie Cat on the other hand is trying to turn out competitive
product because of the inroads by numerous companies. Having just gone
through a restructuring with the Coleman (the original owners), it is
trying expand in a ever shrinking market and faltering economy.

	Only time will tell...

	john

    Last year my Hobie 16 never saw water, except for when it would
    fall from the sky...so it's time to sell it. I'm looking for
    an image that I can put into a DECwrite document so that I can
    make an ad for it and place it on the bulletin board.
    
    Thanks, Jim.
    
    PS 1979 Hobie great shape, new lines, lots of spare parts, trailer
       two traps & harness's, wet suit, and more. $1800