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Conference turris::scandia

Title:All about Scandinavia
Moderator:TLE::SAVAGE
Created:Wed Dec 11 1985
Last Modified:Tue Jun 03 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:603
Total number of notes:4325

121.0. "A visit to Visby, Gotland" by TLE::SAVAGE (Neil, @Spit Brook) Mon Jul 07 1986 10:48

    The follow has been excerpted from the 'Trip Report' written by
    my mother following her recent (June 1986) trip to northern Europe
    and the Soviet Union:
    
    There have been farmers on the island of Gotland since the end of the
    Stone Age, but the town of Visby reached its prime in the 13th century.
    Being in the middle of the Baltic, it was at the crossroads of the
    trading routes between all of Scandinavia and northern Europe, and down
    the Russian rivers as far as the Black Sea.  It was the most important
    of the Hanseatic cities. 

    Visby is a museum city.  You have to be quite wealthy to live there
    because if you buy a house you are obligated to keep it in good repair,
    and if it need re-construction it must be done in keeping with the old
    style: wooden houses painted brown, mostly not more than one or one and
    a half stories high.  Great care is taken with outside appearances;
    tiny gardens and windows with plants, and beautiful patterned lace
    curtains.  Cobblestone streets of course.  A house with an available
    parking space must be very expensive to own (no garages); and
    pedestrians very definitely have the right of way, car don't even honk. 

    Visby is a walking town; after a swing around inside the walls, the bus
    leaves you at the entrance gate on the upper end of the town - the land
    side - and you wind your way down to the port.  The city is only a
    couple of miles square, and surrounded by the best preserved Medieval
    walls in northern Europe, the apertures just right for shooting arrows. 

    At one time there were seven churches within the walls.  Only one, St.
    Mary's, still holds services, mostly in a side chapel, very homey.
    Another, St. Michael's, is just a windowless ruin but is still so
    impressive that a "mystery" play (not detective) is performed there
    once a year.  It must have been a true Gothic Cathedral, stone, not
    brick, vaulted ceiling, etc. But until the people realized what they
    had, they used the stones for building material. 

    We were taken on a circle tour of the island of Gotland.  A short way
    into the country, we stopped at a village church.  It had been built
    originally as a small Gothic chapel with high vaulted ceiling and
    frescoed walls. But through the years and successive "renovations" the
    decoration had been brought down to human level, but never thoroughly
    wiped out, and very obviously local talent had been used.  The small
    altar is now at the front of the church and is surrounded by a well
    maintained burial ground. 

    Many Swedes from the mainland have summer cottages in small wooded
    areas scattered throughout the island.  Farming remains the main
    industry. 

    Gotland is accessible from Sweden by ferry and by air.  At first the
    airport seemed excessively large for the island.  But we were told that
    Swedish bomber planes could reach it in three quarters of an hour; and
    then, that the Soviets had tried to have the international boundary
    west of Gotland instead of east.  A stationary aircraft carrier in the
    middle of the Baltic! 

    There were times when I thought this trip should have been called "War
    through the ages - when will they ever learn?" 
T.RTitleUserPersonal
Name
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121.1beaches???POLLUX::TEGANTue May 09 1989 09:598
    
    Are there beaches in Gotland?
    
    We are spending a few days there during a visit to scandinavia this
    summer.  
    
    Also where does one stay while in Gotland?  We are looking for bed and
    breakfast type accomodations.
121.2More on Gotland63932::SAVAGEThu Jun 07 1990 14:1668
    From: [email protected] (Mats Ohrman)
    Newsgroups: soc.culture.nordic
    Subject: Re: Where to go by bicycle in Sweden?
    Date: 6 Jun 90 09:09:20 GMT
    Organization: Scandinavian System Support AB
 
    [email protected] (John Kallen) writes:
                                             
>In article <[email protected]> [email protected] (Bengt G{llmo,
    L M Ericsson, Stockholm, Sweden) writes:
>>In article <[email protected]>, [email protected] 
>>(Kees  van der Wal) writes:
>>
>>> I'm planning to have a camping trip (by bicycle) in Sweden in July.
>>> 
>>> Coming from Finland via the Aaland Islands and entering Sweden, what is the 
>>> nicest part of Sweden to make a trip? 
>>
>>Go to Gotland!
 
  >I agree wholeheartedly. I went on a bicycling vacation on Gotland a
  >few years ago and it was phenomenal! We made a triangle route from
  >Visby to Lickershamn to Slite and back. But that was just a 4-day
  >stay. If you have more time you can go much further south and north.
 
    Just remember to book tickets for the ferries in advance. They can get
    really crowded in summer.
 
  >Which reminds me, that island on the far north of Gotland (F�r�? I
  >don't remember). Last time I heard it was restricted to Swedes only.
  >Does anyone know why this is so?
 
    Due to all the military hardware dug down there. Its not just F�r�, but
    all the northern third of Gotland, as well as Gotska Sand�n that is
    restricted areas. I think 24-hour passes are availible from MKG
    (Military Command Gotland). The local travel agency, Gotlandsresor, may
    help there.
 
    OK, about Gotland: Its a very flat island in the middle of the Baltic.
    (In fact, for a couple of years the garbage dump outside Visby used to
    be the highest point on the island, until it got too embarrassing, and
    they flattened it out.) It's all  limestone and sandstone (?), except
    for the northern parts of F�r� and Gotska Sand�n, that's drifting sand. 
 
    The southern parts of Gotland is rich farmland, and grean leaf-trees,
    while the northern parts are barren moors, filled with junipers, and
    dark pine woods. The limestone and the climate makes the flora somewhat
    unusual. There are flowers otherwise only seen in the Alps or the most
    northern parts of Sweden, as well as a wealth of orchids flowering in
    May.
 
    Gotland used to be the centrepoint of the very rich Viking-age and
    early medieval trade. (The swedish Vikings were more of shrewd traders
    than marauding plunderers). Due to this fact, it's an archeological
    treasure house. There is just short of a hundred medieval stone
    churches open to the public, as well as the medieval inner city of
    Visby. There has been more medieval silver treasures dug up on Gotland
    than in all the nordic countries together... The museum in Visby
    (Gotlands Fornsal) is well worth a visit.
 
	Summarn kummar me sol
	Kummar yvar h�llmark u stain,
	Yvar f�rf�dars bain,
	Yvar martall, yvar ein,
	Yvar maurar u mack,
	Liksum yvar pinnsvein u rack,
	Kummar soli igen,
	Pa ladingen...
121.3A remarkable placeTLE::SAVAGEWed Aug 23 1995 12:3988
    From: [email protected] (Per-Arne Sandegren)
    Newsgroups: soc.culture.nordic
    Subject: Re: Gotland
    Date: 22 Aug 1995 16:14:37 GMT
    Organization: Ericsson Radio Systems
  
    Gotland with its capital Visby is a remarkable place to visit for
    anyone with  a historic interest. October is not the best month since
    summer tends to end  with August. Gotland is a typical summer island
    and its population rises  something like 4 times during july. If I can
    I would give the advice to go  there during june-aug instead...
 
    Anyway, Gotland is famous for its medieval churches, its "raukar"
    (rocks sculptured by sea), its summer and perhaps most importantly
    Visby. 
 
    Dating from the 7-8th century the inhabitants made big flat stones with 
    picture engravings (like forerunners for the coming viking rune-stones)
    which  by scientists anyway are considered remarkable. Today several
    can be seen as  parts of walls in the comparatively young churches.
 
    Older remains are also found on gotland in form of stone settings
    graves (stones placed in the form of a ship). 
 
    Nowhere in the _world_ has there been found so many arabic and english
    (viking trails) coins than on Gotland (in treasures hidden by their
    owners in bad times). Many silver and gold treasures has been found
    all over Gotland. Dating implies the there has been numerous golden
    eras with uneasy times mingling together.
 
    From Gotland many Vikings went very far and rune inscriptions mention
    places  far away such as England, Istanbul (Miklagard), Greece and
    Jerusalem. Not much  is to see from these times except for the
    treasures.
 
    Visby has the longest preserved citywall (dating from 11th century) in
    Europe (two other european cities comes close and would argue this
    statement). In Visby there are several impressive church ruins all
    dating from the 12-14th century. Visby was a very rich town during the
    Hansa-era. The Hansa were german/baltic trade conglomerat during
    13-15th century.
 
    In the 14th century the danes (with king "Christian the Terrible" who
    BTW are called "Christian the Good" in Denmark) invaded the island and
    conqured it from Sweden. During a decisive battle just outside the
    citywall the gotlanders where slaughtered by the proffesional danish
    army and by a historic coinsidence the recently discovered massgraves
    gives historians the most complete picture they have of people in the
    medieval times. The over thousand persons found in the graves were
    ordinary farmers from the countryside. 
 
    Gotland now went into the dark ages which is well documented by
    historians.  Gotlands well over 100 churches (which by any standard are
    many considering the size of the population) are almost all dating
    from the pre-invasion era and those few who arent are several hundered
    years younger. 
 
    In a sence these dark times are very lucky for us since this is one of
    the  main reasons that there are so much to see there today. Ruins and
    unused things like a outdated citywalls used to be one of the main
    sources for building material in developing cities. One flaw exists
    and that is Visborg which was the castle of Visby. The danes blew it
    up when they finally were chased away in the early 17th century.
 
    Places to stay? Anywhere inside Visby citywall, numerous parts of
    houses are for rent in the summer. 
 
    Places to go? Take a beer at "Munken" (=the Monk) the best bar in
    Visby.
 
    There's a museum called "Gotlands fornsal" which shouldn't  be missed
    (history).
 
    Cousine? Nothing is more Gotlandic than smoked "flundra" (=flat fish).
    The best is to be found in the fishing camp of "Ljugarn" (southeast
    side of island where I used to be every summer when I was a child) and
    should be eaten with your fingers together with (guess!) a beer.
 
    cheers
    -- pa
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   Per-Arne Sandegren   |  "World War III can be averted by adherence 
         M.Sc.          |   to a strictly enforced dress code"
                        |                    
      Stockholm         |  Email [email protected] (text-only)
       SWEDEN           |  Email [email protected]
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