Conference turris::cooks

There are over 50 varieties of the spicy peppers and it would take a book
to describe them all.  Some rules of thumb (from a New Mexico native):

The heat is not really in the flesh, but the seeds of peppers.  If you
taste the flesh and it is "warm" enough, discard all seeds.  If the
pepper seems too mild, keep the seeds in the dish for extra zing.

The dried red variety are all some degree or another of HOT.  The
smallest ones should be approached with real caution and I would only
recommend using them as a flavorer for a good vegetable oil to be used
in sauteing foods.  Simply drop 3 tiny dried red peppers in a GLASS
container with cover, pour in vegetable oil (PURITAN or any brand of
olive oil works well), seal and set aside in the dark for several weeks.
This will add a nice spice for cooking.  Most tiny dried reds are
oriental peppers and are used in hunan and schezwan cooking.

The larger dried reds can be used to create and/or season mole sauces,
as in the general purpose enchilada sauce...not the kind you see in
California which is a wierd gravy, but REAL enchilada sauce.  They
can also be added, in small amounts depending on taste, to vegetable
sautes cassaroles, meat dishes, etc.  Basic preparation for cooking:

grind dried red pepper in mortar and pestle (or food processor), add
a dash of lemon juice or vinegar to "clean" the taste, add garlic and
salt to taste, add drops of water (if necesary) to make a paste.
Use the paste to flavor sauces, etc.

Fresh greens - the jewels of New Mexico! - rule of thumb here is that
the smaller they are, the hotter they are.....Some of these, however,
are really mild.  The long thin dark green peppers
are perfect for rellenos (stuffed pepper Mexican style) or for making
mild green chile dishes.  Add judicious amounts of the small green
peppers, or jalapenas, to "spice" it up.

For chile rellenos - the peppers should be dark green, approx. 4 to 6
inches long, and fresh.  split the peppers, leaving the tops with
stem intact, and pull out the seeds.  Rinse pepper, dry gently and
stuff with chunks of monterey jack cheese.  Dip pepper in beaten egg,
roll in flour, and then set aside in fridge to "set".  Beat egg yolks
until lemon in color and then fold into the egg whites beaten to stiff
peaks.  Heat approx. 4 inches of oil in fry pan to deep frying temp.
dip pepper in egg white/egg yolk mixture, coating well, and immediately
fry until golden brown in hot oil.  Drain well and serve with salsa.

To store fresh greens for future use:  Roast peppers over fire to
blacken skin.  Place in paper bag for 5 - 10 minutes to sweat and then
peel immediately.  Place peppers in freezer container and freeze.
These may be used in chile recipes, soups, etc.

			TRY THEM - YOU'LL LIKE THEM!

I recently tried Geoff Smith's recipe for Chicken Paprikas, which calls
for Anaheim or Cubanelle peppers . He describes them as being "mildly
hot".  Since I could not find the specific peppers he mentioned anywhere,
I improvised - something I strive hard NOT to do for a first-time recipe
try.

What, precisely, are Anaheims and Cubanelles? 
Are they large, like bell peppers? 
Long, like Italians? 
Finger-sized?
What color? 
Do they have a unique flavor?

The Chicken Paprikas came out "okay" and mildly interesting, but I
attribute that more to the Hungarian Paprika than to anything else. The
recipe is widely published in Geoff's "Our Emigrant Ancestors" cookbook.

Art

    Anaheims are 7-9 inch long, medium-skinned chiles which can be mildly
    hot but are usually pretty mild. Canned green chiles that you buy in
    the store are usually Anaheims. They are good for stuffing to make
    chile rellenos, are usually used in the green stage, but are also
    sometimes used in the red-ripened stage (when they can be dried).
    
    Cubanelles are 3-5 inch long, thin-skinned latin chiles, also pretty
    mild, which are usually pickled or sauteed with olive oil, basil,
    oregano, etc. I can't imagine a recipe calling for either Anaheims or
    Cubanelles, since the two are quite different although neither of them
    is particularly hot.

Question for anyone who knows - I have a recipe (which I entered recently)
for chile rellenos casserole which calls for canned green chiles.  They
are layered in to a casserole with cheese and baked.  If I wanted to make
this with fresh chiles, would I have to roast the chiles first or something,
or just slice them up and layer them in?

Thanks,
Diana

    The canned chiles aren't roasted, so I'd assume you'd do the same...
    
    Jeff Smith seems to play fast and loose with peppers. He recently used
    Tobasco Sauce in a Jamaican dish. Seems to me habaneros would be far
    more authentic...
    
    Edd

    	I beg to differ with (.-1). I do this all the time with fresh
    chiles that I grow in my garden. The chiles, like Anaheims, must be
    roasted and peeled to get the skin off...then deseeded and the stem
    removed. Then, I think that four good-sized Anaheims are equivalent to
    one 4 oz. can of green chiles.
    	There are several ways to "roast and peel," but I have the most
    luck on my gas grill or under the broiler. Char the chiles until they
    blister, turning often. You don't want to burn them, but they will
    blacken pretty badly as you do this (I do this with 6-12 chiles at a
    time - so a little charing can't be helped). Then remove the chiles and
    put them into a sealed plastic bag for 10 minutes or so. They will
    steam their skins off. Then remove the skins. They should mostly just
    slip off at this point.
    	At the end of the summer, I usually end up with 50 or so Anaheims
    that I failed to use fresh. I roast and peel the whole lot. Then I
    remove the stems and seeds, dry them as best I can, lay them on wax
    paper, stack them, and put them in freezer bags. Then when I have a
    recipe calling for green chiles, I yank out a freezer bag and chisel
    off as many chiles as I need. They only take a few minutes to thaw.
    Works like a charm. I do this with my leftover poblano chiles too in
    case I want a spicier alternative.

    Well if you find yourself with chiles you want to get rid of, feel free
    to send me mail! :-)
    
    D!

    ...but Anaheims and Poblanos are pretty good sized peppers. The chilis
    typically found in cans are much smaller, like Jalapenos.
    
    If I de-skinned my tais they'd all but disappear!
    
    Edd

�    ...but Anaheims and Poblanos are pretty good sized peppers. The chilis
�    typically found in cans are much smaller, like Jalapenos.
    
    I believe the canned chiles referred to here lately are the small cans
    (the size of a small can of tuna).  The whole chiles are fairly good
    sized as they somehow manage to fold them up and stuff them in there. 
    They are definitely not jalape�os as they are larger and not as hot. 
    They have also been skinned.
    
    As an aside, as far as I'm concerned, if you remove the seeds from your
    chiles, you might as well use bell peppers.

    As pointed out elsewhere [in this file and in the chili notes file]
    there are actually some peppers that are hotter without there seeds
    than with.
    
    ed

    	That's right. The canned whole chiles seem to have 4 whole Anaheims
    rolled up and stuffed in those little cans. The chopped green chiles
    are merely chopped up versions of the same thing.
    	For storage, I remove the seeds, particularly with chiles like
    Anaheims where the seeds do nothing but get in the way. There is still
    considerable difference in flavor between an Anaheim and a bell pepper.
    I grow 10-12 pepper varieties every year, and they are all different.
    	All the heat isn't in the seeds. It's actually concentrated in that
    white-ish pulp on the inside of the chile. Anything in contact with
    that, such as the seeds, will collect some of the heat...but you don't
    lose all the heat by removing the seeds. I can convince you of this if
    you insist!
    	Also, thin-skinned chiles like thais and cayennes don't need the
    skins removed (and I can't imagine doing it either). I *have* roasted
    and peeled jalapenos and serranos for particular recipes though...but I
    usually don't do this.

  My husband and I were discussing "HOT" the other night :^) and he asked me
  what is it that makes a pepper "hot".  Believe it or not I really couldn't
   come up with what causes the heat in a pepper.

  Bet one of you knows why, though.
  
  /teri

    /teri, it's a chemical in the pepper.  I think it's called capscin or
    something close (it's derived from the term capsicum used for peppers
    or vice versa).

fresh chiles should be roasted over a hot flame/burner until blackened, 
put under a microwave cover for 5 minutes to sweat...and peeled.  Then you
remove the seeds and use as canned.

but they taste better.

    The "heat" in peppers comes from the chemical capsaicin.
    
    The heat is measured in Scoville units. Green bell peppers have 0 SU,
    jalapenos run about 5000 and habeneros go up to about .5M. Pure
    capsaicin is 15M.
    
    There is evidence that capsaicin causes the pain receptors in the
    brain to release endorphins... just like heroin!
    
    Edd

    
    	...and running!
    
    rjc

>    There is evidence that capsaicin causes the pain receptors in the
>    brain to release endorphins... just like heroin!

 Hence Edd cultivates his own habs...

    WAHOO:: knows my secrets...
    
    I've personally experienced capsaicin "addiction". It starts when you
    realize even though 2 minutes earlier your teeth were melting from
    the pepper you want another...
    
    ...pretty soon your "tolerance" starts to rise and you eat more, and
    hotter, peppers. (I eat 100K S.U. tai peppers like M&Ms, but still
    approach a habenero with respect...)
    
    I've actually felt (real or imagined) kind of "blah" after going
    without my "fix" for a couple days.
    
    Edd

    I'd Still like to try that vodka B^)
    
    
    Michael

    I just read this myself this weekend. According to the New Scientist
    magazine, capsaicin boosts the intensity of flavours which salt or
    sugar could not provide alone. Capsaicin does not have a flavour of its
    own, just intensifies others. The doctor who tested 35 people who
    regularly ate spicy food said these people became almost addicted
    to curries, for example.
    
    He said the "flavour hit" may arise because capsaicin triggers the 
    release of endorphins, creating a sense of pleasure and well-being, and
    makes the experience of eating more intense.
    
    Elizabeth

    	Well, I just hope that one day we won't find Edd sprawled on the
    floor of his greenhouse, thais and habaneros scattered by his feet,
    rubber hose strapped around his arm and needle in hand, dead from the
    first capsaicin overdose.

    Ha!
    
    I'm actually a little bit apprehensive about reaching my goal of
    munching a habenero down in one swell foop. Once I reach that
    pinnacle, where do I go then?
    
    BTW - I always like to add this little disclaimer when discussing
    hot peppers... BE CAREFULL!!! Capsaicin is not discriminatory. The
    burning sesnsation it causes in your mouth can be reproduced on ANY
    sensitive part of your anatomy. Eyes are particularly vulnerable. You
    may not notice the oils on your hands UNTIL you touch your eye. 
    
    Don't touch your eyes, nostrils, ears, or lover.
    
    Also be carefull of the fumes when roasting or otherwise cooking 
    hot peppers. I made the most painfull mistake of taking a good whiff
    of habenero smoke. My lungs felt like bacon for hours....
    
    Edd 

> The doctor who tested 35 people who
> regularly ate spicy food said these people became almost addicted
> to curries, for example.

Oh well, just add that to the list of my vices :-).

	I have read articles that verify the beneficial good of capsicum
	(peppers) but did you also know that in extremely large quantities,
	it could also cause cancer... I expect that the cancer would be
	on lips, mouth, stomach, and so on.

	Of course, it sounds like only EDD is at danger here.  Me, I love
	the hot stuff, but I'm not adicted yet.  The risk of cancer 
	certainly will not stop me.

	Karen

	

    Karen - check out those little babies on the window sill near your
    office. Those are tais, my personal favorite....
    
    Edd

    	I love those Thais too, but I just can't imagine what you do with
    so many plants! I grow six Thai plants every year. I put them into a
    5'x3' raised bed, which they turn into a Thai shrub, basically filling
    the whole bed. I get enough Thai peppers from this to last me a year,
    and I give a bunch away! But I don't munch on them like M&M's. So maybe
    that's the difference.

    With each plant yielding about 200 peppers I freeze about half the
    crop. About 25% gets used as seed stock, and the rest are either dried
    and powdered, or mashed up and mixed with vinegar and/or tomato as
    a kind of fiery relish.
    
    ...that doesn't include the ones that I eat all summer. These peppers
    are the PERFECT compliment to a charcoal grilled steak.
    
    I've been doing lots of Thai cooking (panangs, Tom Yum, etc.) so I
    really do use 'em all up!! I've got about 2 cups left from last year's
    crop...
    
    Edd

    
    Anybody got a few Thai seeds they'd like to part with.  I'd like to
    get a perpetual crop going and I can't find the right seeds anywhere.
    
    If so, send me mail at OCTAVE::VIGNEAULT
    
    Regards, Larry

  <  Anybody got a few Thai seeds they'd like to part with.  I'd like to   >
  <  get a perpetual crop going and I can't find the right seeds anywhere. >
    
    I'd like to get in on this Pepper growing too.  
    
    POBOX::VOSSS
    
    Thanks,
    
    Steve
    

    I've got (literally) quarts of tai seeds. The only problem is
    getting them to those who want them...
    
    Edd

RE: .24

Nearly anything ingested in large enough quantities is carcinogenic.

The important thing to remember is that the "heat" effect occurs because
capsaicin is a potent mucus membrane irritant.  Possible side-effects of this
irritation, such as peptic ulcers, are not to be trifled with.

As with anything else, moderation is the key.

--PSW

    <<< Note 989.27 by MANTHN::EDD "Real programs in DCL? .NOT.!" >>>
    
    >...that doesn't include the ones that I eat all summer. These peppers
    >are the PERFECT compliment to a charcoal grilled steak.
    
    How do you usually prepare these peppers when you're grilling a
    steak? It sounds delicious, and I want to try it myself.
    
    Thanks,
    
    Elizabeth

    Fresh, no preparation needed.
    
    Tais have a most unique taste I truly enjoy.
    
    Edd

    But, Edd, we know you killed all the nerve endings in your mouth long
    ago. :-)

    Well, it's not like there's much you can actually *do* with a single
    tai. A big one is about the size of a cigarette filter. If you tried
    to roast it and peel it there'd be nothing left!!
    
    Edd

    FYI, fresh Scotch Bonnet peppers are available at both Idylwilde Farms
    in Acton and The Elegant Farmer in Chelmsford. 
    
    I ran a cored pepper of very small size through the garlic press last
    night for spicy tofy. It was great!

    Where can I find Anaheim's?  I went to Idlewile Farm last week, and
    they did not have any...  Any suggestions in the southern NH area?
    
    Thanks,
    
    Alison

    	Well, I have little, teeney, tiny ones on the plants in my garden!

    Anyone know the best way to freeze peppers.I froze a lovely crisp red
    bell pepper which turned into a soggy limp mess when defrosted.I guess
    its something to do with the water content.
    
    Should i have chopped the pepper instead of freezing whole?
    
    cheers
    Graham.

    I think the only way to freeze them so that they remain somewhat crisp
    is to do what the pros do: dip them in liquid nitrogen (or the like).
    
    					andrew

	I once had a whole bunch of green peppers that I had to use
	up before they went bad so I diced them and froze them.  I
	think they came out allright.  Other times, I dice them and
	some onions as well, saute, and freeze to use later in spagetti
	sauce or american chop suey etc.

	Karen

    I freeze peppers all the time, but not whole.  I cut them up into
    strips since that's what I use most, and I can always dice them
    smaller.  My mother cuts hers in quarters as that's what she uses the
    most.  But you don't defrost them before you use them, just cook them
    frozen.  You can't use them raw as there is too much moisture, but all
    that cooks out and there's not a lot of difference in the final cooked
    dish.  You can also freeze raw carrots and do the same thing.  
    
    Cathy

    I like to roast and peel them first.  I then freeze them open on a
    baking sheet until solid and then pack into a freezer container.  That
    way I can take out just the amount I want as they stay loose.  

    I freeze mine whole after roasting, de-seeding, and rubbing the skins
    off.  Lay on a towel for a 1/2 hour before freezing.  This removes most
    of the moisture and they thaw beautifully.

When I just called the number below and started to leave my message on the
machine a very personable gentleman picked up. We chatted for a bit. 

If you're local (to New Hampshire) you can pick up their products at
Brookdale Farm Stand.

The Jamaican peppers are not the only line... he mentioned that there's a
shipment of New Mexico green chiles arriving this Saturday (9/4).

Art


               <<< RUSURE::NOTES1:[NOTES$LIBRARY]CHILI.NOTE;1 >>>
                                  -< Chili! >-
================================================================================
Note 115.3                   I Hab Been Experienced                       3 of 4
VMSDEV::HALLYB "Fish have no concept of fire"        12 lines  27-AUG-1993 14:42
                   -< Habs from Jamaica to NH in real time >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Readers in the greater Nashua area might be interested to know that
    there is a Jamaican pepper importer in nearby Hollis.  The guy imports
    peppers from Jamaica, packs them and delivers them in the local area.
    Last Saturday I got some Habaneros that were picked 3 days earlier!
    Call and leave your address for a price list and newsletter called:
    "The Pepper Hot Line".
    
    			"Jabeba House" answering machine: 603-465-2428
    			FAX: 603-465-2481 	Compu$erve: 72114,1533
    
    Usual disclaimer:   I have no financial or personal interest, just a
    			happy customer.

    
		Aprox Scoville Units		Variety

		100,000 - 300,000	Bahamian, Habanero
 		 50,000 - 100,000	Santaka, Chiltecpin, Tai
		 30,000 -  50,000	Piquin, Cayenne, Tabasco
		 15,000 -  30,000	deArbol
		  5,000 -  15,000	Yellow Wax, Serrano
		  2,500 -   5,000	Jalapeno, Mirasol
		  1,500 -   2,500	Sandia, Casabel, Rocotillo
		  1,000 -   1,500	Ancho, Pasilla
		    500 -   1,000	Big Jim, Anaheim, NM-6
		    100 -     500	R-Naky, El Paso, Cherry
		      Zero		Bells, Pimiento, Sweet Banana
    

    What about banana peppers and "greek" peppers.  They are yellow and
    look almost alike.  The banana's are smooth and come to a point, the
    greek are much hotter and wrinkled.
    
    
    dlh

    The latest craze in Sydney is 'gourmet pizza'. We have one gourmet
    pizza restaurant locally which serves on several of its pizzas a thing
    called 'Capsicum-Chilli Jam' i.e. some sort of preserve or chutney or
    summat made with chillis and capsicums (bell peppers). It's
    magnificent, and I wonder if anyone out there would know how to go
    about making it?
    
    Salivating in anticipation,
    ~Sheridan~
    

I believe there are a variety of such recipies around, Sheridan.  I don't think
its a standard.  I've got the "Great Chili Book" at home and I believe there are
a couple of recipies in there.  I'll look them up later and enter them for you. 
I also have catalogs for a couple of mail order places that carry chili jams. 
I'll get you the info.

cheers,
david

   Here's a chutney recipe from the aforementioned source -
   _The Great Chile Book_.  Reprinted here without permission.  

   "This is very easy to make, and it goes particularly well with crab
    cakes [...].  It also goes well with eggs, pork, chicken, and 
    saut�ed trout or salmon.  It can be served warm or cold.  In short,
    it makes sense to have this chutney around, just in case!  (Store it
    in the refrigerator - it keeps very well.)"

	  Green Chile Chutney

   2 pounds fresh New Mexico green chiles, roasted, peeled, and diced
            (or roasted Anaheim chiles, with 2 or 3 roasted jalape�os)
   2 cups sugar
   1 tablespoon roasted ground Mexican oregano
 2/3 cup cider vinegar
   1 teaspoon salt

   Mix the ingredients together and cook for 10-15 minutes over medium
   heat in an enamel or stainless steel pan.  Allow to cool, and serve cold. 
   For a hotter chutney, add 6 diced roasted jalape�os (or increase the
   number accordingly if using Anaheims and jalape�os).

    How about some ways of making preparring roasted pepers.   I grill them
    put them in brown paper bags until they cool peel and put them in a little 
    extra virgin olive oil with some crushed garlic and let them sit at room 
    temp. for a couple of hours.  Any variations?  

    My peppers arew all spicy, ranging from fairly mild commercial anahiems
    to all of the rio-grande valley chilis which go from fairly mild to look
    out.  
    
    I broil them, peel them and use them in Relleno's, use them unroasted
    in fresh salsa, add them to a lamb stew loosely based on Codilla, and
    throw them in whereever I feel the food needs a pick up.  
    
    did you know that after charring, you can freeze them without peeling? 
    Run your chilis under water after thawing and the peel comes off
    easily.  
    
    meg

    I have some Hungarian hots I would like to roast.  Do I need to peel
    them?
     

    
     No need to peel first.  Roast them on a grill or in the oven under 
     the broiler until they become blackened on all sides, turning 
     occasionally.  Place the roasted peppers in a bag and allow them
     to set for 5-10 minutes, until cool enough to handle comfortably,
     then simply scrape the skin off with a spoon.  
    
      Larry

    Do yourself a favor and roast your peppers on your grill, OUTDOORS.
    The hot peppers put out some amazing "fumes"!  It's hard to cook if you
    can't see...
    
    /Charlotte

    Does anyone have any ideas about making a mix of peppers to keep in the
    fridge.  I'm talking about a mix as in several types of peppers,
    olives, celery, cauliflower... I buy this called (excuse the spelling)
    Hot Giardinare that is really good but I would like to try it myself. 
    I want to buy the fresh peppers, veggies... but I don't know what
    liquid concoction to store them in.  Any ideas?
    
    Steve 	

    Steve,
    
    I would try my standard pickling brine.  (this was adapted from a my
    grandmother's "Joy of Cooking" book, circa 1920.)
    
    two parts vinegar, 1 part water, 1/8 part salt.  We add two cloves of
    garlic, 6 peppercorns, and three whole cloves and a couple of chile
    pequins.  
    
    meg
    
    

    Meg,
    I read "chile pequins" as "chilly penguins"
    : )
    Sarah

re .56

Meg,

Typically, how big are the "parts" of water and vinegar for the amount of garlic,
peppercorns and garlic you suggest?  Would it be 2 cups vinegar to 1 cup water?

thanks,
dave

    Dave,
    
    Depends on how many quarts of pickles I am making.  We typically use
    bushels of pickles in the summer and make 35-58 qts at a time, so we
    work in gallons.  2C vinegar, 1C H2O, 1/8 C salt. would work, as does 
    2 G vinegar, 1 G water, and 1 Pt salt.
    
    meg

Meg,

What I meant was that you gave specifics for the cloves (3), the peppercorns (6)
and the garlic cloves (2) but I wasn't sure of the total volume of liquid for these
measured amounts.  Or is it that regardless of the volume of liquid you use the
same amount of seasoning?

Sorry if my question wasn't clear.

/d 

    Sorry Dave,
    
    I just thought the way I do.  The peppercorns, cloves, garlic, etc. is
    put into a quart jar, and when I make pickles I add a dill flower.. 
    You put this in the jar, and then pack in your veggies and then pour
    boiling pickling brine (the 2 p, 1 p, 1/8 p stuff) over the packed
    veggies.  at this point you have refrigierator pickles, or grab a ball
    book and water bath for your altitude to make these shelf-safe for a
    year or more.  We water bath for 20 minutes at 6000 feet without
    damaging the crispness of our pickles much, but I also got away without
    water bathing unil I knew better, goddess looks after fools and the
    ignorant at times, but don't bet on it.  
    
    meg