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Paul,
my opinions are probably somewhat biased. i still ski (on
occaision...) so i'm inclined to turn my feet (boots) forward a great
deal. my lead boot (riding goofy...) is about 15 degrees off of a
'dead-ahead' position while my trailing boot is about 30 degrees off of
the same. i think that the angles are determined by the board width,
binding and boot length, and personal preference.
you mentioned the possibility of using your 'old ski boots'. that would
amplify what i just stated. if you look at your 'old ski boots' and a
pair of 'hard snoboard boots' for the same size foot you will find that
their lengths are quite different. the 'hard snoboard boots' sport a
'bobbed' toe and heel that are notched for the plate binding bales.
the regular ski boots are a good bit longer; this means that the bindings
must be mounted in a more-forward fashion to reduce the 'toe' and
'heel' drag incidence on the same board when using the ski boot(s).
you've got a bit of lee-way on the slightly-wider Burton Super Model.
the narrower Alp doesn't give you a lot of room for the plate
binding/ski boot.
ride the corduroy.... Henry
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| Better late then never.
I ride both a Burton PJ6.3 slalom and a Burton Custom 5.9
Carving is no problem on either but the turns on the custom are a lot
shorter and a bit more strengthening.
Just be shure that you're boots or bindings are not touching the snow
/ice in the deep carves, it'll through you out.
Learning to carve on the other hand is much easier on a slalom board,
but once you've got the hang of it, you can carve every board !!
(When setup right with the bindings position)
C-ya,
Erik
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