| Trip report: Ireland, June 18th - July 3rd
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This has not been a real birdwatching vacation, in the strict meaning of the
term although BW has been the main activity of us. We went with our son,
18 month old so we had not that much time to stick with binoculars (especially
on the cliffs) because we wanted it were vacation for him too, and not just
stress (so that, in a near future, he will love BW as well, BTW he's learning
how to look through binoculars). We had anyway a good watching time and
enjoyed many species, of which some were good twitches.
Weather was painful bad the first week (cold, wind and rain), a bit better
the second one that also was warmer and almost sunny the last three days.
We rented an holiday cottage, 4 miles off Doonbeg, Co. Clare. We choose that
area because close to the Mouth of Shannon and with shores that looked very
well promising (from Kilkee to the Cliffs of Moher). Just close to our cottage
we had a great watching site: the bay of Doonbeg (where the Doonbeg river
flows in) - we could watch many waders (probably the best site we went to for
waders) just from the car seats, with very little (hopefully without any)
bother to birds - so don't miss that site if you pass by.
We used, for site references, some good hints from friends and colleagues,
a 1:400000 Michelin's road map and the book "Where to watch birds in Ireland"
by Clive Hutchinson. We found the guide sometime wrong or vague but all in all
useful. There is a new edition of that book (Red cover and slightly larger
than my black/blue booklet) that hopefully is more up to date and accurate.
Neither me of my wife are professional ornihtologists, just passionate
amateur birdwatcher - this don't claims to be a professional report so
please forgive me for any error or inaccuracy you can find.
General notes
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We've been resident in Co. Clare so most of the data are from that and
the neighbor Co. Galway (the bay and the Burren area). We also spent
half a day south off Dublin and, of course, a couple of half-days traveling
from Dublin to Doonbeg and back.
Jackdaws (Corvus moledula), as well as the Pied wagtails (Motacilla alba) -
melanic form of the White wagtail found in Ireland and UK, are everywhere,
yet the wagtails are just a little nicer...
Rooks (Corvus Frugilegus) are less spread than Jackdaws - we saw usually large
groups but not so frequently, and the Hooded crow (Corvus corone), compared
to Italy, is relatively poor.
Again compared to Italy, we found very few House sparrows (Passer domesticus),
substituted, in number and diffusion (at least in the country side) by the
Meadow pipit (Anthus pratensis) whereas we found pigeons (actually Rock doves
(Columba livia)) were just in the Dublin area.
In the country side, almost any house has got one Magpie (Pica pica), and
the fields are covered by flocks of 30-40 or more juvenile Starlings
(Sturnus vulgaris). The Swallow (Hirundo rustica) is present but much less
than in Italy and I don't remember the sight of any House martin (Delichon
urbica) - this confirms the reports of the diminishing trend of the
species in the northern countries.
While the shore is abundant of birds, we are a bit disappointed by the
river Shannon, particularly by its Southern shore (Co. Limerick) where
very few birds can be seen, this also due to the lack of access to the
shore (almost all the roads toward the shore are ending in private property).
In The Burren, a very suggestive area, there are almost no birds. There are,
anyway, several archaeological sites (but, if you are interested in Dolmens
or Stone circles, be prepared to exhausting endless walkabout in search of
them as the sites are poorly preserved and with almost no signal or
direction).
Note: all the species reported above are not reported in the daily reports.
Day by day
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Time and weather reported are just indicative - having a young child morning
means late morning (up to noon) and evening means 6pm (but even earlier).
June 19th
Doonbeg (morning - cloudy, wind, cold):
A few Skylark (Alauda arvensis) on the meadows around the
white strand, a group of Oystercatchers (Haematopus ostralegus)
on the bay, 3 Cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo) on a rock
(one, slightly smaller and brownish is a juvenile).
One Woodpigeon (Columba palumbus) on a meadow near the village.
Lurga Point (afternoon - rain, wind, cold):
A Great black-backed gull (Larus marinus) is all we could see
in the short time we could bear the rain and wind on the strand.
June 20th
Kinvarra (afternoon):
2 Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) and on Coot (Fulica atra).
Doonbeg (evening):
A Stonechat (Saxicola torquata) on the fence just before the
house.
June 21st
Paulnasherry Bay (morning - rain):
2 Shelducks (Tadorna tadorna), a Curlew (Numenius arquata)
and some Black-headed gulls (Larus ridibundus).
Kilbaha (afternoon - rain):
A Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) on a rock, resting, a
Grey heron (Ardea cinerea) fishing and, in front of the village,
a ten Common gulls (Larus canus) on a small rock.
Loophead (afternoon - rain, fog):
A very large colony of Guillemots (Uria aalge) on the sea,
many Herring gulls (Larus argentatus) and some Great black-backed
gulls (Larus marinus) - so bad there is so little visibility.
Doonbeg bay (evening - cloudy)
Three Oystercatchers (Haematopus ostralegus).
Doonbeg, white strand (evening - cloudy):
A ten of Oystercatchers (Haematopus ostralegus) and a fishing
Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo).
June 22nd
Cliffs of Moher (morning - cloudy, wind, mist):
There is a large colony of Razorbills (Alca torda) nesting on
the cliff in front of a large flat rock great for watching while
comfortable sit of lay down (be careful, cliffs are dangerous !
you should know, never watch through binoculars while standing up
close to the edge !). Mixed with the Razorbills there are also
several gulls (?) but wind and mist make it very hard to distinguish
details. On another rock, there is a kind of balcony upward,
following the path to the tower, there are a few but very beautiful
Puffins (Fratercula arctica) - if only it were a little more clear !
On the meadows there are also a few Wheaters (Oenanthe oenanthe).
Lough Atedaum (afternoon - cloudy):
This is a small lake with an amazing number of Mute swans
(Cygnus olor) - we never saw so many individual all together.
Ballyallia Lake (evening - cloudy)
On this lake, very close to the town Ennis and despite the bother
of canoes there are some Mallards (Anas platyrhynchos), a few
Coots (Fulica atra) of which one with 4-5 juveniles and a
Little Grebe (Tachybaptus ruficollis).
Donnbeg bay (evening):
Several Oystercatchers (Haematopus ostralegus), two Redshanks
(Tringa totanus) and a Ringed plover (Charadrius hiaticula)
fill today up.
June 23rd
Clounderalaw bay (morning - cloudy):
There are a few Shelducks (Tadorna tadorna) and a small group
of waders too far away to distinguish any detail other than
shape and behavior. Further on, from the road, a Curlew
(Numenius arquata) and a couple of Mallards (Anas platyrhynchos).
Fergus estuary (afternoon - cloudy):
Two Shelducks (Tadorna tadorna) and, again, some almost invisible
waders. Meanwhile two Grey herons (Ardea cinerea) fly over there.
June 24th
Doonbeg (rain):
No activity today, anyway a pair of Wrens (Troglodytes troglodytes)
on the fence in front of the kitchen window makes wake up a
little happier and a pair of Stonechats greets the evening
away.
June 25th
Kilbaha (afternoon - slightly cloudy):
A Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) is sleeping on a rock, while
three Rock pipits calls each other and fly back and forth from
one rock to another.
Loop Head (afternoon - slightly cloudy, wind):
To profit by the (relatively) almost good weather we went
back to watch the Guillemots (Uria aalge) with a better
light and visibility. This time there were less individuals
on the sea but much more were flying (from cliff down to
sea, fishing, and back). There are also several Herring
gulls (Larus argentatus), Common gulls (Larus canus) and
Great black-backed gulls (Larus marinus). It was a great
surprise to see 3 Gannets (Sula bassana) passing by and
fishing with a quick dive.
June 26th
Doonbaeg bay (afternoon - rain !!!):
Weather is very bad, we have been stuck at home the whole day
long but a short trip to the village. On the way back a glance
to the bay shows three Oystercatchers (Haematopus ostralegus),
a Curlew (Numenius arquata), a Ringed plovers (Charadrius hiaticula)
just passing by, 3 Redshanks (Tringa totanus) and, I think but
visibility was too bad to be completely sure, a Greenshank
(Tringa nebularia) - unfortunately we had no more chance to
watch that individual to get confirmation.
June 27th
(cliffs between Kilkee and ) Castle Point (morning - cloudy, wind):
3-4 Great black-backed gulls (Larus marinus), an Herring gull
(Larus argentatus), a Common gull (Larus canus) and a two
of Choughs (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhcorax). On the way back to
Kilkee, a male Wheatear.
Querrin pier (morning - cloudy):
A Woodpigeon (Columba palumbus) crossed just before the car.
100 meters from the pier there are a ten of Curlews (Numenius
arquata), most of them sleeping close to the grass, and a
rowdy flock of Black-headed gulls (Larus ridibundus).
Knock (afternoon - rain):
Curlews (Numenius arquata) are numerous here, some tens, and
there are several Black-headed gulls (Larus ridibundus) too.
Clounderalaw bay (afternoon):
Two Shelducks are very close on the shore, good picture taken,
and others are back mixed with Curlews (Numenius arquata).
June 28th
Lurga Point (afternoon, wind):
Two Great black-backed gulls (Larus marinus) are arguing for a
small crab that one dropped while flying - I don't know whether
because pinched or to kill/stun it. Two Rock pipits (Anthus
spinoletta) call from the rocks on the beach and two Shags
(Phalocrocorax aristotelis) pass by toward Mutton Island.
Doonbeg bay (evening):
No waders this evening, just a Grey heron (Ardea cinerea) and
a pair of Mute swans (Cygnus olor) with 5 juveniles.
Doonbeg, path to Blind Horse cave (evening - sun):
There is a hedge, bordering the path, that is very crowded:
A pair of Stonechats (Saxicola torquata) with two juveniles
and a Redpoll (Carduelis flammes) are just a few of the many
inhabitants you could hear (singing, calling and moving).
June 29th
Cliffs of Moher (late morning - wind, sun (rain)):
He just had to return to the Cliffs of Moher as it was sunny
and clear (though we had a couple of quick showers while at
the cliffs) to watch the Puffins (Fratercula arctica) with
better conditions. Under the sun you can really see their
colorful bill - and we could also clearly distinguish a few
juveniles (black bill). Today there are also some Guillemots
(Uria aalge) on the same rock, other than a Cormorant
(Phalacrocorax carbo) and a Shag (Phalacrocorax aristotelis).
Last time I didn't notice I could get so close to the cliff
where the Razorbills (Alca torda) nest, and the ones I thought
were some gulls actually are a colony of Fulmars (Fulmarus
glacialis).
Doonbeg bay (evening, clear):
Some juvenile Herring gulls (Larus argentatus) and three Ringed
plovers (Charadrius hiaticula). This individuals have the
black stripe over the eyes is not marked like the ones around the
eyes and neck.
June 30th
Doonbeg bay (evening):
Just a Curlew (Numenius arquata) and a Ringed plover (Charadrius
hiaticula). Faraway there is a Cormorant (or Shag ? it's too
distant to tell for sure).
July 1st
River Shannon - southern shore (morning and afternoon - sun):
As already told in the introduction, this shore of the
Shannon is poor of birds... during all the trip to
Limerick we just watched a Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus),
a Grey heron (Ardea cinerea), two Mute swans (Cygnus olor),
two Cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo) and two Woodpigeons
(Columba palumbus). The book reported that several species
could have been seen from the `coast' road - just a pity that
the river could barely (if at all) be seen.
July 2nd
Doonbeg bay (morning, rain):
A last glance to this wonderful site: a fairly large group of
Oystercatchers (Haematopus ostralegus), a ten of Redshanks
(Tringa totanus), a Cormorant (Phalacrocorax carbo) and,
not so far, on a rock just surfacing, two Sandwichterns
(Sterna sandvicensis)... it was not so easy to identify them
until one decided to have a short flight since the yellow
tip on the bill was not evident at all.
Bray Head, Co. Dublin (late afternoon, sun):
The book reports you can see some interesting species from
the train from Bray to next Village (sorry, I don't remember
the name) but indeed there is a very nice path (following the
railway, a little above) where you can have a good walk
(about 5 miles - you could also consider to get back by train)
and great watching. We didn't do the whole path, and it
looked very promising further on, anyway we could see two
Black guillemots (Cepphus grylle) on the sea - it's amazing
the way the orange legs could be seen despite under the water.
We also saw some Guillemots (Uria aalge) both on see and
flying, a Razorbill (Alca torda) on sea, a pair of Stonechats
(Saxicola torquata) and a Greenfinch (Chloris chloris).
On a rock there was a ten of Cormorants (Phalacrocorax carbo),
of which 3-4 juveniles, and an adult and a juvenile Shag
(Phalacrocorax aristotelis) - all of them seemed perfectly
aligned, funny ! There is also a numerous colony of Kittiwake
(Rissa tridactyla) and, on a rock above the path, we saw two
Fulmars (Fulmarus glacialis). Grouped on a rock, 20-30 Rock
doves (Columba livia).
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| .7> Mauro, while you have given a detailed day to day account of the
.7> Bird-watching it's difficult to say whether or not you had a good time
.7> or not?
Sure I enjoyed my vacation, I entered a short note (.5) complaining about the
quality of Guinness in Co. Clare - but we had good time anyway.
.7> Was there anything that you thought was terrible?
Well, other for the Guinness... driving a mirrored car, on a narrow road with
a truck speeding the other way that didn't slow down a mph - that was an
experience.
Also, we've been surprised by the waste of plastic bags at shops - and for
the 30% of phosphates (SP) in detergents -- the Green Island seems not to have
a green soul...
.7> Was there stuff you thought was wonderful?
The whole island and the people are wonderful ! (and Ginness too, outside Co.
Clare !)
.7> Would you ever go back again?
This was my 3rd time, and not the last one - I hope. As it could result in a
few other notes around, I'd like to move there definitively and I sent a few
CV's while there....
.8> any rare or unusual birds?....Alot of unusual spanish and Italian
.8> around the city at the moment.
Well, most of the species seen there are rare for Italy... I think Black
guillemots (and a few others) are (relatively) rare in Ireland as well ...
.8> .Interesting note ..though I think if I passed on this info in my local
.8> pub I'd be put down or committed ..handle of a shovel over the head
is it so boring ? I do understand it could be, for a non-birdwatcher -
anyway I wanted to leave a track for other BW's coming to (or living in)
Ireland, as there was no one note about BW... I also thought to open a new
item [Mr. Mod feel free to move at will] but then decided to reply on my
original request.
.9>Your day by day account made interesting reading.
Thanks, this makes me feel less guilty for boring to death other people.
.9>I've read and seen programmes
.9>on TV regarding the shooting of birds by organised groups in Italy. Birds
.9>migrating from Africa back to Northern Europe just are not making it back in the
.9>same numbers anymore. Calabria got particular mention. It seems that Bird
.9>protection people there are putting their lives at risk trying to save rare
.9>birds from extinction.
Yes, that's a real shame - and yes, every year bird protection people risk
their life to limit the killing a little as the government hardly gives
police and forest department people to fight poachers (some of which involved
with mafia), and it's dangerous to contest a rifle with a binocular... but this
is going off subject, feel free to mail me if you want more info on the subject.
.9>Bord Failte (Irish Tourist Board)is actively promoting organised shooting of
.9>birds for the French and Italian markets. What do you think of this?
I am against hunting and this says it all... unfortunately may countries offer
hunting vacations (mostly in Scandinavia and eastern Europe) - Ireland just
didn't seem me so much rich in game...
.10> Get a life!!! %^)
.10>
.10> I'm sorry, I didn't mean to sound so insulting, but as one who has
.10> never gotten interested in bird-watching, to read the report of a
.10> fanatic was truly awesome. I wish I could hold something as dear as
next/unseen does the trick
.10> you do birdwatching. The only thing that comes close is to temporarily
.10> hold a full glass of Guiness.
I would rather hold a/some temporarily full glass/es of Guinness ;-)
.10> And if you ever have another trip with such a report, please enter it.
.10> It does make fascinating reading.
I'm sorry but the report would be very short this time, should I ever come
for another Ireland tour again I will write a report on stout watching - er,
pardon... drinking 8*) if I remember to take notes at the first sip ;^)
Cheers,
Mauro.
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