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Conference tallis::celt

Title:Celt Notefile
Moderator:TALLIS::DARCY
Created:Wed Feb 19 1986
Last Modified:Tue Jun 03 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:1632
Total number of notes:20523

313.0. "Ireland Trip Report!!" by DPDMAI::OREILLY (My wife and dog are more Irish!) Tue Jan 05 1988 13:05

                         <Ireland Odyssey> 
    
    In this note I will give a description of our just completed three
    week trip to Ireland (12-13-87 to 1-3-88).
    
    I will first give a day-by-day description of our activities (avoiding
    the obvious/non-applicable items) and then I will give you our
    impression of Ireland in terms of certain areas like eating, driving,
    etc., for example.                       
    
    I think that those of you who have never been to Ireland will find
    it interesting and those that live there or who have travelled there
    will find it amusing and interesting.
    
    I will try to complete the entries by this Sunday, the 10th of Jan.
    Please try to hold your Replys till then so that there can be
    continuity.
    
    Thanks,
    John O'Reilly
    
T.RTitleUserPersonal
Name
DateLines
313.1First InstallmentDPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Wed Jan 06 1988 10:02103
    We arrived at Shannon and somehow with no mistakes made it to our
    accomodations (Woodlands Guesthouse in Adare).  When they took us
    to our room, which was ice cold, my wife asked, " Can you turn on
    the heat as we will be sleeping soon?"  And the reply was, "Sure,
    but the heat is on!"  Well, they provided us a space heater which
    did the trick.
                   ****** 12-13-87, Sunday ******
    Before turning in we went down for a bite of breakfast. Well, it
    was one of many huge Irish breakfasts: porridge (or oatmeal), brown
    bread, eggs, bacon and sausage.  The sausage in Ireland is better
    tasting than that in USA.  I rarely have it in the USA.  Michelle's
    scrambled eggs were the best she had ever had (until later in the
    trip!)
    
    We basically ate and slept that first day.  It was quite cold, windy
    and overcast.  I went for a walk and had a Guinness at the guesthouse
    bar.  My first Guinness in Ireland was poured by Mr. Dick Fitzgerald.
    He and his wife own/manage the Woodlands Guesthouse (and seem to
    have a thriving business).  I promised Dick that he would be forever
    known as the pourer of my first Guinness in Ireland. By the way,
    it was great and the first of many during the trip.
                       ***** 12-14-87, Monday ****
    The next day we drove to Limerick and exchanged a lot of dollars
    for a few IR�.  Then on to Bunratty Castle.  Our main reason for
    visiting was to see the Irish Wolfhounds and visit Durty Nellys.
    
    We were very sad to find out that the last one had died 5 years
    ago.  We tried to explain that the Wolfhounds "made the castle",
    but I'm not sure they understood our biased point.  The castle was
    impressive, but obviously commercialized.
    
    On to Durty Nellys where we had a pint and some Sheperds Pie (very,
    very tasty!) for lunch.
    
    Then we drove back into Limerick to the local Tourist office.  It's
    in a renovated building which was designed by O'Reilly and Associates
    out of Dublin and won an award!
    
    Then we drove west along the south edge of where the Shannon meets
    the Atlantic.  Saw some very beautiful sights, but it was too dark
    and overcast to get good photos.  Saw a Franciscan Abbey.  It was
    N69 that we were driving on.  We were brave and took a shortcut
    back to Adare and made it!  It was a very narrow and winding road
    and poorly sign posted.
    
    We took a nap, had dinner, and socialized in the Guesthouse Pub
    that night.
    
                          ***** 12-15-87 *****
    
    We drove to Galway today as I had some business to discuss with
    one of the folks up there.  It was rather challenging to drive the
    windy road in the dark and drizzle, with a frightened wife by your
    side, but we managed.
    
    Now, yesterday they were supposed to have had a cake for my wife
    for her birthday, but they forgot.  I reminded them this morning.
     So when we got back from Galway we went to dinner.  Another incredible
    feast.  Then the cake came and it was, of course, very tasty.  We
    asked the hostess to let everyone in the dining are know that they
    should help themselves (as we had food coming out our ears) to the
    rest of the cake.  My wife also added, "tell them that they should
    share in my birthday wish of 'Many more future trips to Ireland'".
    Well, we were charmed by the patrons response.  Each would wave
    and smile and say thank you -- and the real surprise was how many
    that said yes.  In the USA they would have been skeptical and
    unbelieving that someone could make a nice gesture (my opinion and
    a generalization-not always true).
    
    The next day we drive to Killarney.  We fell into an incredibly
    deep and sound sleep.
    
                      ***** 12-16-87 *****
    
    We woke up to a blue sky, little wind and mild temperatures (summer
    in Ireland!).
    
    First stop, Rathkeale.  First, a very old church that was being
    restored by volunteeers.  Then, we met Col Sean O'Driscoll of Castle
    Matrix.  We had considered staying there, but we just couldn't afford
    it.  We definitely stay there next time, it's incredible.  We highly
    recommend it.  It's an authentic castle.  We had found out about
    Castle Matrix from Debra Forrest of Digital Canada whose sister
    is married to Sean.   Col. O'Driscoll and his wife were prepared
    to have us stay in the off season, but were nice enough to understand
    our decision and gave us a free tour, and had us over for tea. 
    What we thought was going to be a 20 minute stop ended up being
    about 2 hours.
    
    On to Killarney...on the way we finally saw our first good view
    of Ireland's hilly/mountainous and green (patch work quilt effect)
    land.  INCREDIBLE!  And this is in the winter!  It's even better
    in the summer.
    
    As darkness fell we reached Kathleen's Country Cottage just outside
    Killarney.  (highly recommende.
    
    We went immediately into town and ate at "The Laune" (a pub), again,
    very tasty and hearty meal.  We went back to Kathleens for a nap
    and back into town and found live music at "Tatler Jacks".  Good
    Crack.  Stayed well past 11 pm closing until they kicked us out.
    
    Next........ Thursday, 12-17-87
313.2Installment number 2DPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Thu Jan 07 1988 10:3279
                      ***** 12-17-87, Thursday *****
    
    While my wife "did her hair", I went for a run (or jogging as some
    like to say).  Again, I was realizing a dream, running across the
    green fields of Ireland.  I couldn't have picked a better spot:
    a field overlooking Killarney along the main Limerick-Killarney
    Road.  I could see the spire of the main Cathedral and dominant
    on the skyline is Muckross Abbey.  Then I ran across the highway
    down a side street, across a railroad bridge and came across a 
    cemetery that overlooks Killarney.  Even the Irish cemeteries are
    beautiful: the Celtic Crosses, the large Crucifix and lter, estatues
    of Mary and Joseph, etc.
    
    After the run I retraced the route with my wife, esp. the cemetery.
     We went into town and while my wife shopped, I hung out at the
    Laurels Pub, talking to two very nice Irish gents, about 60 years
    old.  Had a few pints and a bite of lunch.
    
    Then we went to the Muckross House for a tour--very interesting
    and beautiful grounds.  (want to stress here again, that we were
    told constantly that it (gardens, etc.) was horrible in the winter so
    you can imagine how beautiful it must be in the summer).
    
    Then we went to the Silver Scissors hair salon as we were told the
    owner has a Wolfhound.  We brought her a bouquet of flowers.  She took
    us to her home and let us ease our "Wolfhound Withdrawal".  We now
    have visiting rights whenever we please!
    
    Then (still the same day) we went to O'Reilly's Restaurant and Pub!
    One Mrs. O'Reilly met another Mrs. O'Reilly!  I had a pint.  Made
    reservations for dinner at O'Reillys tomorrow night.  (All locals
    had been telling us that O'Reillys had great food and crack--of
    course, this pleased us considerably!)
    
    We ate at the "Flesk" for dinner and then had an easy night, preparing
    for the Ring of Kerry drive tomorrow!
    
                         ***** 12-18-87, Friday *****
    
    The Ring of Kerry was gorgeous.  We were extremely lucky with partly
    cloudy skies and mild temperatures.  We climbed a large hill/small
    mountain overlooking Caragh Lake - fantastic.  The sun was coming
    through the clouds in a spotlight fashion illuminating the patchwork
    quilt below us!
    
    We found another O'Reillys establishment in Waterville which a
    combination post office and store.  Our "relations" inside were
    lovely people.  Waterville is a very pretty village.
    
    We got about 2/3 around when darkness got us.  Another exciting
    drive in complete darkness, rain, hairpin curves, etc.  My wife
    became more religous during the trip with her constant praying.
     (I kinda enjoyed it, actually)
    
    Then to O'Reillys for dinner.  It was fantastic!  We ate dinner
    with a very nice gentleman there on business.  Dermot O'Reilly and
    his wife are the owners of O'Reillys, very nice people.  I met their
    14 year old son, John O'Reilly - very good kid!  The crack that
    night was great, probably the best of the trip.  There was an accordian
    player and his father and sister were there, too.  We sang along
    a many songs.  The was a very sweet older man named Justin, who
    is the caretaker of the cathedral.  He reminded of a Wolfhound:
    a gentle giant.  He had huge strong hands, like he could rip a brick
    out of the fireplace if he desired; but that if someone was about
    to step on a mouse he would intercede and save the mouse!  
    
    I drank several Paddys/lemonade.  Not lemonade as USA calls it,
    but sort of a orange soda to dilute the whiskey a little - very
    good.
    
    The best part of this night: Dermot O'Reilly put me behind the bar
    for a few minutes to tend the bar!!  Several patrons taught me how
    to pour a GUINNESS!  My first one: perfect!!
    
    At 11pm the lights were shut off out front ande the partying continued.
    We finally got home about 1:15 am.
    
    Next, Saturday, 12-19-87
    
313.4Someday my "Prints" will come (Kodak Theme Song)STEREO::BURNSOnly Things Missing Are Guinness &amp; RainThu Jan 07 1988 14:1226
    
    
    
    	re. 3
    
    	It thought the former owner of that castle was .....

                                                   
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    	"The Duke, Duke, Duke, Duke of Earl" ....
    
    
    	(I think paddy Culbert fell asleep)
                       
    
    
    
    keVin
    
313.5TPVAX3::CULBERTFree Michael CulbertThu Jan 07 1988 15:448
    I'll have you know I've not been sleeping a wink but reading all
    about the visit that seems to be full of exciting times for those
    involved.  Now you two hush up and let the festivities continue.
    
    This stuff has a classical aire to it and should be taken in as
    we sip a fine wine with mellow music in the background. 
    
    
313.6Installment 3DPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Fri Jan 08 1988 09:58173
    Thanks, Paddy.  Now, I'll continue.  If you're sleepy, please go
    to bed.
                            ***** Saturday, 12-18-87 *****
    
    We climbed a large hill/mountain with a waterfall.  Can't remember
    the name, but it's on the same road as the Muckross House.  Once
    you're at the top you've a beautiful view of the Lakes of Killarney.
     We had originally planned to drive Dingle today, but the weather
    is overcast and misty.  A friend we had met at O'Reillys insisted
    on giving us a bottle of poteen (Irish spell poitin) as a gift.
     We picked it up tonight.
    
                          ***** Sunday, 12-20-87 *****
    
    We went to see a Killarney artist and bought a beautiful painting of
    Dingle where Ryans Daughter was filmed.  Mass at the Cathedral and
    on to Kinsale.  Kinsale is south of Cork and is situated on the
    bend of a river just as it goes out to see.  We ate dinner at the
    Cottage Loft in Kinsale.
    
                            ***** Monday, 12-21-87 *****
                                ***** through Saturday, 12-26-87 *****
    
    We're staying at "Ard Carrig". (means high rock)  It's a beautiful,
    beautiful Georgian home full of Irish antiques/art.  It's owned
    by an American couple who have moved to Ireland to retire.  They've
    been in  Kinsale 4 years and love it.  It's a little high (�20 per
    person sharing) but worth.  Breakfasts are incredibly large, and,
    you have choices of traditional Irish or today's gourmet specialty.
    
    Ardcarrig has an incredible view of Kinsale.  Kinsale is somewhat
    "cosmopolitan" with a few Americans, English, Spanish, French, etc.
    that call it their home.  It has an inexhaustible supply of excellent
    restaurants.
    
    My fingers are getting a little tired so I'm going to just give
    you the highlights of our stay here.
    
    We attended Christmas Day mass at the Friary and it was said by
    Father O'Reilly!  (the whole town, even the non-Catholics, loves this 
    priest).  We were able to visit another Wolfhound named Conor. 
    We met a couple (California lady and her Belfast boyfriend) who
    are together restoring a large house to be a Country Inn.  It's
    called the Scilly (pronounced Silly) House and they are aiming for
    an April opening.  We recommend that you give it a try.  We went
    for several walks, James Fort, Charles Fort, Scilly Walking Tour,
    etc.  I was able to go for another run.  We attended the Christmas
    Day swim for Charity and had Christmas Dinner at the Actons Hotel.
    
    We met several Americans.  We met the 4 American Managers and their
    families associated with a nearby American pharmiceutical firm and
    we had Christmas Eve drinks at one of their homes.  We met a writer
    from Calif. who was visiting Ireland for 2-6 months to write a novel.
    
    On Sunday the 27th we got an early start on our drive to Dublin.
    
                          ***** Sunday, 12-27-87 *****
                                  through
                          ***** Wednesday, 12-30-87 *****
    
    The drive from Kinsale to Dublin was by far the easiest driving
    in Ireland.  A two lane highway with as hard shoulder and only a
    few curves.  
    
    We saw the Rock of Cashel on the way--impressive, unfortunately
    it was closed.
    
    We found our bed/breakfast in Dublin and our only bad experience
    in Ireland.
    
    They had Central heat, but only had it on 2-3 hours per day.
    Meanwhile, in their part of the house they had a space heater. 
    They agreed to leave the heat on in our room overnight, but then
    didn't leave it on.  So after one night we left and stayed at the
    Mount Herbert Inn in Ballsbridge, Dublin.  Mount Herbert had "saggy"
    beds, but was warm and convenient to Dublin.
    
    About the 23rd the "laidbackness" or Ireland had eroded our notekeeping
    to nothing.  Now I'm relying strictly on memory.
    
    In Dublin we:
    Went shopping, attended the Greyhound Races (Shelbourne), attended the 
    Horse Races (Leopardstown), walked around Trinity College (buildings
    closed during the Holidays unfortunately), went shopping, attended
    live music at The Merchant Pub.  (Met a John Joseph O'Reilly, Garda,
    who looked as if he had seen a ghost when we met!)  There are
    individual stories to tell about each one of the above, send mail
    if interested.
    
    One of the days we were in Dublin we did a driving tour though County
    Wicklow.  Incredible.  Saw "Kevin's Kitchen"--where St. Kevin hung
    out and had several churches, etc.  Saw some gorgeous beaches. 
    Missed most gardens due to season.
                
    One night I was able to meet with Dermot O'Sullivan and his family
    (my wife was very tired and couldn't make it--we had been drenched
    in a rainstorm at Leopardstown).  They live is a very nice area
    of Dublin by a golf course.  He and his wife have three beautiful
    children and a nice home.  We sat by the fireplace, trading stories
    and discussing Ireland, etc., etc. Four or five hours passed as
    if it was only 45 minutes.  Thanks, Dermot for your hospitality
    with very short notice!
                         
                             ***** 12-31-87 *****
    
    We were not all that impressed with Dublin, just another big city.
     Even though they were about to celebrate their "millienium", we
    decided to move on to Cavan town, the part of Ireland where the
    O'Reilly clan originates.  We stayed at a Bed and Breakfast that
    was ok.  The problem was that the people staying next door to us
    decided to tak all night and so we didn't slep very well.  Tonight
    we had a wonderful dinner at a local Hotel.  Unfortunately, my wife
    was feeling sicker from our Leopardstown experience.
    
                         ***** Friday, 1-1-88 *****
    
    Started out the new year by meeting with Mr. Liam Ferrie, his wife
    and one of his sons at the Derragarra Inn at Butlersbridge, near
    Cavan.  Liam and family were staying with relatives at Enniskillen
    and understanding my wife's reluctance to cross the border, was
    nice enough to drive an hour to meet us just over the border at
    Butlersbridge.  We had a lovely conversation for a couple of hours,
    then we both needed to be heading our own direction.  Thanks, Liam,
    for going out of your way to meet with us; it was truly a pleasure.
    
    Then we drove to Galway and arrived at Mike Hughes home (a.k.a.
    the snake) around 5 pm.  Unfortunately, I was exhausted from the
    drive (I did all the driving) and starting to catch my wife's virus;
    and my wife was out of it as well.  The Hughes decided to serve
    us tea--we had forgotten that tea means some form of dinner--before
    we could object dinner was being served.  Meanwhile, Snake was
    entertaining us with some great stories.  I just wish we hadn't
    been zombies.  Meanwhile, Brida (Mike's wife) went out of her way to
    find a B&B for us that night and she couldn't have done a finer
    job--it was probably the best place we stayed (B&B's) the entire
    trip.  Thanks so much, Mike, for your hospitality.  We will definitely stay
    in Galway for a long time, next trip, so we can share more with
    you.
    
                           ***** 1-2-88, Saturday *****
    
    This morning we drove through part of Connemara.  We were lucky,
    once again, with partly cloudy weather.  Connemara's incredible!
    Pressed for a decision on the most scenic area we saw, Connemara
    may be it.  Have some incredible photos.
    
    On the way back in to Galway, we saw an incredible rainbow over
    Lough Corrib. (Dam camera didn't catch it, but it's etched in our
    memories)
    
    We drove to village north of Ennis to stay for the last night.  (A
    "farmhouse", can't remember the name or village, send mail and I'll
    look it up.
    
                        ***** Sunday, 1-3-88 *****
                          (+Sat. night, 1-2-88)
    
    That night we went to a local pub (Clarke's).  The owner went to
    a lot of trouble to give me an empty Gin bottle to put our poitin
    in (as it turns out we walked right through customs with hardly
    a delay).  We went to Sat. nite Mass (28minutes, perhaps a record?--
    no this priest has done Mass in 25 min. according to the locals!!)
    
    We retired early as we had to pack and get to the airport in the
    morning.  Overnight I came down hard with the sickness of my wife.
    
    The owner of our accomodations is buddies with a local pharmacist.
     On the way to the airport, the pharm. gave us some strong medicine.
    
    On the plane I sweated out the sickness during the first 5 or 6
    hours.
    
    Next, I will make some miscellaneous comparisons with US and Ireland.
313.7CALLME::MR_TOPAZFri Jan 08 1988 16:1715
       re .6:
       
       > ***** Saturday, 12-18-87 *****
       
       > A friend ... insisted on giving us a bottle of poteen 

       > ***** Sunday, 12-20-87 ***** 

       If Saturday was the 18th and Sunday was the 20th, I gather
       that there isn't much poteen left over.
       
       --Mr Topaz
       
       p.s.: If O'Sullivan lives next to a golf course, how come he
             isn't a better golfer?
313.8last installment for nowDPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Fri Jan 08 1988 17:2689
    What's in a date?
    
    Lot's of poteen left.  Would appreciate any suggestions for ways
    of drinking it!  One we heard is Margaritas!?
    
    Here's one of the "cultural" items I wanted to bring up:
    
    In the US and you have someone over.  You ask:"Would you like some
    tea or coffee, etc.?"  Your guest says, "No."  That's that.
    
    In Ireland, it seems, the first few "No's" are taken to mean "Maybe".
     Finally, after several "No's", it is really taken to be no.
    
    Is this generally a true observation?
                                
    
    Another interesting item we noticed is how well versed the Irish are
    on World Events, particularly the US.  They know a heckuva lot more than
    we do about our own country, it seems!
    
    Along the politics line we had some interesting discussions with
    Irishmen (meaning Irish mankind, i.e. men and women) about Gary
    Hart.  Basically the Irish said that politics and personal life
    should be completely separated.
    
    I don't want to start an argument here, but.....  I feel tha the
    US press is horrible and definitely make too much of the personal
    lives of the candidates.  However, the way someone handles their
    affairs outside of politics, I think, can be indicative of the way
    they might act in office.  E.G. If you bought a house from Mr. X
    and later found it to be defective and flawed, would you then
    turnaround and buy a building from him!?
    
    Or, if someone makes a commitment of marriage for life, then cheats
    on his/her spouse--how well is that same person going to hold other
    commitments?
    
    The Irish we talked to disagreed no matter how we presented the
    analogy of Gary Hart.  They said that a similiar incident in Ireland
    would be swept under the rug and the concentration would be on the
    politics of the candidate.
    
    
    Another rather "sticky" item we realized after the same discussion:
    Since divorce is outlawed in Ireland, when a couple realizes they
    aren't meant for each other (let me stress that I'm just passing
    on what I heard and am making no judgement, etc.) that the husband
    will just leave and start over.  His new wife will be called a fiancee
    and they'll even build a home together, etc.
    
    My wife and I's opinion is that the US has a problem of divorce
    being too easy to get.  I.E. couples give up too easy-break up on
    some crazy insignificant problem.  However, there are some situations
    where divorce perhaps can be justified and therefore should be
    available.  So perhaps Ireland is too far the other way, just the
    US is too far the opposite way.
    
    With regards to church, we had an idea of the following point but
    I wanted to mention it: It was a little disappointing that there
    wasn't more music in the Irish Liturgy.  The way Communion was
    served-where everyone just piles up at the front was interesting,
    whereas in the US, we go row by row.  I must say that Christmas
    Mass was fantastic with 3-4 choirs, guitars, etc.,  etc.  We were
    moved to tears several times during Christmas Mass.  Also, there's
    a lot more kneeling than in the states which I think is neat.  
    
    
    Getting directions in Ireland was a little interesting.  Most times,
    after getting several minutes of advice from a local that we asked
    along the street; we would both look at each other more baffled
    than we were to begin with!  It was hilarious!
    
    I was kinda pleased with my sense of direction in Ireland.  In most
    cases, when I made a decision based on instinct I was right!  I
    don't know how many times we came upon a "Y" in the road with no
    clue as to which one to take: it wasn't on the map, it wasn't in
    the directions we received locally- and - both roads looked identical
    as to "how major" they looked!!  I enjoyed it--so what if we weren't
    on the right track-we're bound to run into another lovely Irishman,
    beautiful scenery, a statue of Mary, a Pub, etc.
    
    It was truly the most relaxing vacation ever.
    
    That's the majority of what I wanted to comment on, but I know there's
    more in the recesses (swamps?) of my mind that will come up later.
     I'll add them as they do.
    
    Regards, 
    JO'R
313.9Another commentDPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Sun Jan 10 1988 21:4928
    Another difference we saw what the very large number of Irish who
    smoke.
    
    I guess we've been spoiled in the U.S. by a fairly large decrease in
    smoking over the last 10-20 years.
    
    I guess we got used to it, but it was very inconvenient.  With my
    allergies and contact lens it made the environment a little unpleasant.
    My wife wanted to constantly wash our clothes to get the smoke smell
    out, as well as her hair.  They're starting to say in the US that
    you can get cancer from secondary smoke--if true, living in Ireland
    could give you cancer if you don't smoke!
    
    I think it would be a good idea for those Irish who do a lot of
    business with US tourists to take this difference into account and
    provide non-smoking areas in Pubs, restaurants and accomodations. 
    I think that the smoking problem could be a limiting factor for
    many people.  We're just so in love with Ireland that we put up
    with it--others might not.
    
    Is it true that the US leads most of the world in reducing smoking?
    Or does Ireland have just as many smokers as most other countries?
                                             
    The above is simply my opinion.  I hope I haven't offended any smokers
    out there.
    
    Regards,
    JO'R
313.10C�ad M�le F�ilte is as true todayFNYFS::AUNGIERViva San RocoMon Jan 11 1988 06:4929
    John,
    
    Great to read your accounts of the ould country and it always amazes
    me to hear an outsider (this is meant as anybody visiting Ireland
    for the 1st time and not as in the real meaning of the word) talk
    about Ireland in such a way. Being born and reared there we take
    things for granted, we might even find people not so friendly but
    then our measuring stick is different. I have always loved the country
    people as I remember I went with my parents and wife down to Wexford.
    We stopped along the way for a drink and there was some men who
    had caught some fish in the bar and as usual a conversation followed.
    They would not believe that my wife was Spanish but when they did
    they asked the owner of the pub to grill on of the fishes.
    
    It is like that all over. My wife has some great memories of Ireland
    too like you John. It is nice to see that despite all the unemployment
    and hardships of the 80's Ireland has not lost it beauty, friendlyness
    and hospitality.
    
    Your stories make me a bit homesick even though I don't normally
    feel so. It brings me back to some of the places I know and I can
    occassionally hear the crack both in the streets and pubs.
    
    
    Good reading and hope you have many more good holidays in Ireland.
    
    The saying in Irish is truly true "C�ad M�le F�ilte"
    
    Ren�
313.11Driving and Photography in IrelandDPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Tue Jan 12 1988 15:3144
    Driving in Ireland was: pick one of the following- a)crazy, b)fun,
    c)dangerous, d)safe, e)tiring
    
    My choice is "all of the above".
    
    Yes, they're crazy.  I'm a fast driver here in the states so the
    speed didn't bother me.  But, when they pass in an obvious non-passing
    situation--that's crazy!!
    
    It was fun.  I like driving in a 4 speed around curves etc.
    Downshifting, etc.
    
    Safe?!  Yes, because the drivers are not "falling asleep" like they
    can do in the USA.  Here we are very spoiled--many of us drive
    automatics that are so comfortable and smooth.....
    
    The roads in the US are very wide and in general very smooth and
    in general not very curvy.  Unless you're driving in the country
    you're unlikely to run into a tractor, as in Ireland.
    
    You have to be alert and aware of what is going on around you in
    Ireland.  You have to know the limitations of your vehicle in Ireland,
    etc.
    
    We loved how people walking along the road would wave as you passed.
    Since we had a back seat full of luggage , we couldn't offer any
    hitchhikers a ride.  We would have enjoyed doing that if we could've.
    You're usually taking a quite a risk in the USA to pick up someone.
    
    Of course, stopping and asking for directions was always interesting
    as I mentioned earlier in this note.
    
    Taking photos was difficult.  I don't know how many times we stopped
    for a photo, only to find out that minutes later was another slightly
    more incredible view!!
    
    We have some incredible photos that will be framed--and several
    of the best ones didn't come out right!
    
    The Irish are certainly not shy about getting their photo taken.
     An Irishman in Dublin joked that if you were in rush hour traffic
    in Dublin and wanted to cross the street you would just yell out,
    "Please stop so I can take your photo!- and - The traffic would come
    to a standstill!!"
313.12Irish Wolfhounds in IrelandDPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Tue Jan 12 1988 15:3818
    Irish Wolfhounds are certainly misunderstood in Ireland!
    
    The Irish thought: (please pardon me for another generalization,
    I'm sure there are many Irish who know more than my wife and I do
    about I.W.s)
    
    0  They required raw meat for their meals
    0  They could possibly turn mean and harm children.
    0  You need an acreage to run them in.
    0  You need a very large house for them.
    0  They eat very, very large amounts of food.
    0  They are very, very expensive to have.
    
    My wife and I joked that we should quit our jobs, move to Ireland
    and make our lifelong goal to: repopulate Ireland with Wolfhounds
    and educate the people about how wonderful they are.
    
    JO'R
313.13Road Signs in IrelandDPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Mon Jan 18 1988 21:0634
    We had some interesting experiences with Irish Road Signs.  First
    of all, we would be going to a major town that was several hours
    away so we would see the signs pointing to it providing us with
    the remaining distance in kilometers.  However, ocasionally we would
    see a sign that seemed was off, i.e. it was like we went 20 km in
    30 seconds.  At first we just figured that some creative individual
    had their own idea of the remaining distance.
    
    But for ignorant Americans......  The majority of the signs are
    in kilometers, with a few in miles--but there's no designation.
    
    We had been warned of some signs in only Irish--we didn't experience
    that--there was always the English translation.
    
    The signs warning of a sharp curve or several curves ahead always
    gave us a laugh, because it seemed like the worse curves weren't
    marked!  After one of these signs we would slow slightly anticipating
    a hairpin curve, then, nothing!
    
    However, the "Black Spot" signs were to be taken seriously.  I guess
    they mark spots were severe accidents had happened frequently before.
    
    The signpost at an intersection where more than two or three roads
    met was a little difficult to read.  Sometimes it would be difficult
    to distinguish which sign was pointing where.
    
    On the way to the last accomodation we had there was a sign at a Wye
    intersection to let you know which leg to take.  Well, it exactly
    bisected the angle formed by the wye!  Later it was explained to
    us that it normally would point more towards the correct choice,
    but the wind was blowing hard that night!
    
    Regards,
    JO'R
313.14Irish GnerosityDPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Mon Jan 18 1988 21:4247
    There are so many causes in Ireland.  In every Pub you see several
    boxes with slots (sorry there's got to be a better way to describe
    this) for money with the cause described on the side of the box.
    In the streets you'll find people collecting for their church or
    some other worthy cause.
    
    And, almost every Irish person manages to give to each one no matter
    how little they may have.  It is so touching to witness how generous
    the Irish are.
    
    The same is true in terms of buying a drink in a Pub.  In Dublin
    while my wife shopped I hung out in a local Pub (as was quite often
    the case--I'd rather be tortured than shop!).  I talked to a lovely
    gentleman who turned out to be a priest from Derry.  It turned out
    he taught mathematics at a college prep school there.  I offered
    him a drink and he said something to the affect, "There've been so
    many Americans in the past that have treated me so generously--you
    must allow me to return the favor".
    
    We were constantly having drinks and cigarettes offered to us.
    
    Another experience was at a Chemist in Dublin in Ballsbridge.  I
    went there to get some medicine for my wife.  I particularly wanted
    Chloroseptic cough drops.  The lady said all they had was Chloroseptic
    Spray.  Meanwhile, the gentleman who worked there disappeared to
    the back.  After I purchased some other cold remedies, he came back
    with an opened box of Chloroseptic cough drops and
    said,  "please take these, you can have them."  It would be a rather
    rare experience in the USA, something like that.
    
    The trip to Ireland helped to restore our faith in mankind.  It
    was very refreshing.
    
    Another experience:  On the way to an establishment we were walkingand
    got caught in a cold driving rain for 30 minutes.  The lady attendent
    in the women's restroom volunteered to dry our soaking wet jackets
    using the "low power" hand dryer on the wall.  It was a very long
    and laborious task.  She was so concerned about us having to go back
    out in our wet jackets.  What's more precious than our own time
    and work?  Time's probably more precious than money in the USA as
    we're all so concerned with getting ahead that we have so little
    time left over to give away. (again simply my opinion, a nasty 
    generalization)  Try to find someone in the USA to volunteer 1/2 day
    or more--it's very difficult!
    
    Regards,
    JO'R
313.15The North is not to be missedGAOV08::DMCCONVILLEWed Jan 20 1988 15:0334
    An observation if I dare.
    
    I was sorry to read that on your visit to Ireland that you did not
    see any of the North. I understand your reluctance to cross the
    border with the media coverage that concerns the North, but usually
    only 'bad' news is newsworthy. If you had travelled 10 miles from
    Butlersbridge to Clones (Co. Monaghan) you would have crossed the
    border at least twice (into Co. Fermanagh) and probably never have
    known the difference.
    The scenery and friendliness of Ireland shows clear in your notes
    but let me assure you there is no finer scenery and more friendly
    people than in the North. Crossing the border there are the
    checkpoints,etc., but once through them you will find the same
    hospitality, friendliness and fine scenery that you encountered
    on you visit. Some of what you missed and perhaps next time cross
    the border and see the other province.
     
    	    For scenery/photographs
    
     The North Antrim coast and Gaints Causeway
     The Glens of Antrim
     The East coast of Down and the Mountians of Mourne 
     The Fermanagh lakelands
     The Drumlin belt that stretches from Donegal/Tyrone through Armagh and
     into Down.
     The wild rugged beauty of North West Donegal.
    
    and perhaps the centre of Belfast , which friends have seen recently
    for the first time and could not believe that they were in the same
    city as is shown on the news. (All major cities have areas which
    visitors are advised to avoid). 
    Sorry if I rattled on, but all of Ireland is worth seeing.
    Perhaps next time give the North a call ?
       Dee
313.16YES! Can you get me more vacation?!DPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Wed Jan 20 1988 15:3918
    I'm ready to visit the north right now!
    
    Isn't it a shame how the press puts things out of proportion!  Same
    thing is true of travel on airlines!  They don't tell you about
    the very, very large number of flights that have travelled safely
    since the last mishap.  You're much more likely to die from an
    automobile accident, etc.  I'm sure the same is true in Northern
    Ireland--you're much more likely to die from an automobile accident,
    old age, etc. than from the conflicts going on there. 
                           
    Thanks for your comments, and I do look forward to seeing Northern
    Ireland next time.  Between the crazy driving and the fact that we're
    in N.I.,; I may have to drug my wife the entire time we're there!!
    
    Also, I know that there are a lot of O'Reillys in Armagh and can
    remember my father saying that our forefathers came from Armagh.
    
    JO'R
313.19Accomodations in KillarneyDPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Wed Jan 20 1988 17:5617
    This is a little out of sequence, but I wanted tomention that while
    we were in Killarney, we stayed at Kathleen's Country Cottage. 
    It's located on the Limerick-Killarney Road just before you go around
    the curve and see the incredible view of Killarney unfolding in
    front of you.  The rates are reasonable, the rooms are very comfortable
    and well kept - it seemed brand new.   There's a sitting room with
    glass all around with about a 270 degree view.  The breakfast is
    very good, especially the porridge.  She had some technique that
    made the porridge very creamy/tasty.  Kathleen's husband, children
    and father are all very nice folks (I guess almost everyone in Ireland
    is, so I tend to repeat myself).
    
    So, we give a strong recommendation to Kathleen's.  We won't stay
    anywhere else when we're in Kerry in the future I can guarantee
    you!
    
    JO'R
313.20N.I. the place is greatFNYFS::AUNGIERBritannia Waves the RulesThu Jan 21 1988 07:0021
    John,
    
    Great reading your report, it makes me want to jump on a plane and
    go back. It is indeed a beautiful country. I have never yet heard
    a person say anything but the best about their visit(s) to Ireland.
    
    The North Of Ireland as Dee says is the best part of Ireland for
    me. I spent many months working there and studying there and boy
    did I have a great time. One old noter here who knows me personally
    can probably vouch for that. Everytime Belfast is mentioned or other
    places up the Antrim coast, it brings me back to many years ago
    and I miss them badly. The people, the friends, the crack and the
    general happiness I felt way back then, it does not mean to say
    that I am unhappy now, but nothing could be as good as the time
    I spent in N.I.
    
    
    I hope to go back there and look up some old friends.
    
    
    Rene
313.21CSSE::HIGGINSParty GirlMon Jan 25 1988 13:054
    Sorry about .17 and .18.
    
    I was trying to write about my trip to Galway but TALLIS kept having
    problems.
313.22The next best thing to being there2HOT::KROBINSONIcon do windows.Fri Jan 29 1988 15:5810
    John,
    
    A million thanks for your wonderful, detailed despcriptions of Ireland.
    Funny how the Irish seem to have more than their fair share of talent
    for writing.
    
    I'm dying to see it now.  Oh well, someday I will have the time/ the 
    money/ someone to travel with.

    					kathy
313.23more impressions...BUSY::OROURKETue Feb 02 1988 14:0381
    
    
    John,
    
    I enjoyed reading about your trip.  I brings back some not-so-distant
    memories.  I visited Ireland for the first time in November.  I
    wasn't fortunate to have spent as much time or covered as much ground
    as you did.  However, I definately wet my appetite for more...
    
    Some of my impressions:
    
    MUSIC - There was music EVERYWHERE, in restaurants, in stores, people
            whistling and humming a tune.  One night, or should I say
            early in the a.m., I opened my window for some air only
            to hear three girls singing in excellent harmony while 
            walking down the street.
    
    FOOD -  The food was very good, nicely seasoned, and the servings
            were always generous.  In general it was pretty expensive
            regardless of where you decided to eat. (I guess the poor
            exchange rate is to blame.)  Fish was a favorite as expected.
            THe only problem was avoiding the bones.  I guess I've been
            pampered by having things "de-boned" all my life!  
            An extra treat was the variety of breads that came with
            every meal.
            
    SERVICE - The people were always very polite and knowledgeable about
            their products.  Service was very "complete" but not what
            you would call "quick."  I didn't mind at all; I wasn't
            in a rush.  I used the time to talk to people, which brings
            me to...
    
    CONVERSATION - There was never a shortage of conversation.  I was
            most impressed by the fact that people "really talked."
            In my day-to-day experiences most people engage in disjointed
            fact-exchanges...the morning traffic jam, the check the
            bank lost, etc.  In Ireland I found plenty of people ready
            to discuss ideas and dreams.  Life, love, and laughter were
            all open topics.
    
    Getting Around - While in Dublin, I walked most places.  Getting
            lost was fun, and getting directions was even more so.
            It seems nobody wants to send you away without helping,
            so they give you their best guess as to the right direction.
            You use successive approximations to "work your way" toward
            your target.  
    
            In the countryside, the roads vary a great deal.  It seems
            like people drive quite fast, but they also seem to pay
            attention to what they are doing.  With all the twists and
            turns, it is a neccessity.  Luckily, I did not see any
            accidents.
            
    SCENERY - I spent most of my time in Dublin and south of Dublin.
            The countryside around Roundwood & Wicklow was breathtaking.
            We had unseasonable nice weather--around 60 degrees F. and
            sunny one day while walking around the Monastic Ruins.
    
            I love the country but Dublin, with Trinity College and
            Pheonix Park had a lot to offer, too.
    
    SAFETY - As for Kathy's remark (313.22) about needing some one to
           travel with, don't let that stop you.  I felt very safe 
           traveling alone.  You do have to watch your valuables,
           especially in the city.  However, I found your normal "street
           smarts" from growing up around the Boston area make you an
           unlikely target.  There is some petty theft and areas to
           avoid, but nothing like around here.  I actually accepted
           ride from a couple when I got caught in a downpour in Dublin---
           definitely not something I would do in Boston.
    
    
    PEOPLE - Yes, I will vote the Irish among the greatest in the World.
           Of course, being of Irish decendent does make me slighly
           biased....
    
    
    Can't wait to visit again.
    
    Jennifer
      
313.24Excellent input DPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Wed Feb 03 1988 16:1915
    Thanks Jennifer.
    
    You covered some points that are exactly in agreement with our
    experience but that I missed.  For example--fish with bones.  That
    wasn't always the case, but a good percentage of the time.
    
    Your term "successive approximations" for how to use Irish directions
    is the perfect description.
    
    Also, about people "really talking"-that's what we found too.
    
    And, my wife and I can't wait for the next time, either!!  Probably
    June, '90 or '91 or sooner and we'll just have to sell the house!
    
    JO'R
313.25talkingCSSE::LEONHARDTDick LeonhardtWed Feb 03 1988 19:1212
    When I was in Cork last summer, I went with my cousin to Midleton
    where her grandmother and my great-grandmother came from, looking
    for gravestones.  We found one cemetery with some relatives, but
    not the particular one we were looking for.  We went into the town
    proper and looked for someplace official, but it was a bank holiday
    so prospects were dim of finding anything.  We came upon what we
    took for a library or town hall or something and went up to the
    door.  A lady was in the garden and came over.  Well, half an hour
    later my cousin and this lady finally disengaged themselves.  The
    place was the lady's home, and she had no help relative to another
    cemetery, but neither one of them was going to be the one to end
    the conversation.  It was rather amusing to watch this.
313.26TALLIS::DARCYAmach leatThu Feb 04 1988 09:555
    Dick, what was your great-grandmother's name?  I've many relatives
    in the Midleton-Castlematyr area.  And which cemetery were you
    searching?
    
    -george
313.27Holy RosaryCSSE::LEONHARDTDick LeonhardtFri Feb 05 1988 08:596
    Great grand-mother was Mary Ann Coughlin.  She is buried in St.
    Joseph's in Cork.  Her brother Henry is, or at least the stone
    is, in Holy Rosary in Midleton.  We were looking for her father
    but couldn't find him.
    
    Dick
313.28We live in the Information Age?!.......DPDMAI::OREILLYMy wife and dog are more Irish!Mon Feb 08 1988 21:2017
    Recently a few of you have contacted me for some more info.
    
    Here's some more information for those of who that may want some
    more specific info on the places we stayed. 
           
    In Killarney we stayed at Kathleen's Country House.  064-32810.
    Kathleen O'Regan-Sheppard is the proprietor.
        
    In Galway we stayed for one night (on recommendation of Mike Hughes)
    aMr. &  Mrs. Fleming's home, she calls it "Garryedmond".  It's on the
    GalwaClaregalway Road.  091-98405.
    
    If there's any other info you want just "DECmail me".
    
    JO'R
    
                                                               
313.29Paging Dallas...EGAV01::MHUGHESTue Feb 09 1988 04:568
    Leaprechauns went to town.
    
    Msg. for J O'R, I got two envelopes in the mail yesterday John,
    I drank the first one, I'll have to be more careful with the second.
    :-) :-)
    
    Snake says thanks for the memory.