Conference rusure::nintendo

	Hi there Steve,

	The chip in the stock pad type controller is a CD4021, an 8 bit
    shift register(quick, count the switches!).  I don't think "The Shaft"
    cares it but you can probably find the SK or ECG series replacement at
    Walker or some other TV parts joint.  Frankly I'd go the latter route
    anyway, since Newark lists the chip for a buck and the quality of RS
    IC's is... well the topic of other notes in other conferences!

	BTW, why do you think it's the controller anyway and what do you
    think has caused the failure.  I'm just curious, I assume you did A-B
    swapping and all that stuff.

	One other thing that I'd like to comment on here is your "Right to
    Fix-it Yourself". I think this "no cross reference" stuff is a load of
    you-know-what! If I buy it and I want to DIY on the repairs the rest is
    my responsibility.

	Does Nintendo think Atari or the "Taiwan Clone Masters" will
    "Crack-The-Code" if they know what's inside the controllers or is this
    the "Mr Goodwrench" approach (keep the quality in with "Genuine" NES
    parts AND service)?

	What do you folks think?

	Regards, Kelly
	(1,500 ft above you in Colorado Springs!)

    Hi Kelly,,
    
    	Thanks for the help on the chip...  I agree about RS chip'etts...
    
	When the first controller let go I metered both the chips out and got
    totaly different responses.  So i assumed that tthe chip was gone...
    When I recived the unit back I opened the unit and they had changed
    the chip....  I was the same unit and module  because I had marked
    it...   When the second one let go I metered the two chips again
    and got the same results.  
    
    	I think they want Quality "profits" to stay within Nintendo.
    I think that is the same reason they regulate who can make nintendo
    compatable games.....  I think Atari currently has a legal suit
    pending about this.....
    
    	I think the problem was a build-up of static electricty within
     kids...  or   They changed devices without shuting off the unit.
     I have thought of extending the ground pin on the plugs so it
    will always connect first.... this would work on 2...  static guard
    would work on 1...  
    
    	I can think of no other reasons  I wonder about cause 1.  and i feel
    more secure about cause 2....
                           
    
    
    Thanks for the quick answer   Steve
    

    This is for all you do it yourself'ers out there. I had a controller
    go south on me and didn't wish to make nintendo any richer. So after
    determining it was the cable with one or more broken/intermittent
    wires I went looking for a replacement. Just happened to find a
    place that carries them. For those of you who are interested I'll
    list the supplier :
    
    		MCM Electronics
    		650 Congress Park Drive
    		Centerville, OH 45459-4072
    
    
    		Nintendo Replacement Joystick Cable
    		#83-0320     Price Qty(1-9) 	$2.25
    			           Qty(10-up)	$1.95
    
    
    Much cheaper to do it yourself.. The only difference between stock
    cables and the replacements is that they are about 2 feet shorter.
    But for those of you who like to play from accross the room they
    sell a 6 foot extender cable for $3.50 . When added together still
    considerably cheaper...
    
    Fran

    Thanks again for the information.  I replaced the chip and am back
    in operation...   I also bought 4 extrasss
    
    
    thanks   Steve G.
    

Old notes are good notes.... one of my controllers quit working last 
week.... I ohmed out the wires and all were fine... the chip was the 
only thing I could suspect. I found this note, ran out to my local 
hobby electronics store and bought a 8041 for $.50, replaced the old 
one, and the controller works fine.

Thanks for being here...