| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 156.1 | advanced novice now | FSTTOO::WIMMER | | Wed Apr 05 1989 20:18 | 11 |
| Check out not #40.....I asked basically the same question, was just
as frustrated and got a lot of great advice......which worked, by
the way. Now that I'm an "old hand" at this (I was only going to
have 2 budgies, but a few months laters have 5 birds including a
macaw).......patience and persistence is the key. My budgies now
come out at least once a day, fly around and will easily come to
my fingers, shoulders, etc. The only hard part is convincing them
to go back into their cage. Wait till you get to the point of bringing
out the small birds, then the big birds in shifts. Then their is
the part about juggling the dogs inside and outside so the birds
get their turn..........
|
| 156.2 | Taming Budgies | AKOV12::SELESKY | | Thu Apr 06 1989 10:22 | 42 |
| Hi,
It's never really too late to tame a budgie. As stated, patience
and persistence are the key words here. Keep putting your finger
in the cage slowly (not much movement) and don't give up until your
budgie has gone up on your finger. Then just hold your finger steady
for 5 or more minutes with the budgie on your finger. This is so
you don't scare him with too much movement and get him used to the
idea of being on a finger (and he calms down). Then gently move
your finger to the opposite perch with him. If he gets off, put
your finger close to his belly just above his feet and push a bit
to get him to step up on your finger again. Work with him at least
10 minutes each time, several times a day (as often as possible).
When he gets more used to going on your finger immediately (could
take several days or several weeks, depending on the bird), move
him around on your finger up and down and horizontally in the cage.
Words of advice. It is much easier to tame a budgie if it has its
own cage. It will be much harder and take much longer if both your
budgies are in the same cage. Can you get a separate cage for training
purposes? Also, I don't let my budgies fly free until they go on
my finger immediately in the cage, with no hesitation and no fear.
Then, once I do let them out (and my 2 budgies are free to fly
in the bird room all day long), I use the same persistence in getting
them on my finger. They may resist at first, once they have their
freedom, but even if they fly away, keep go over to them and putting
your finger at their feet. They may fly away every time at first,
but keep following them and eventually (may be 10+ times) they'll
relent and go on your finger. Do this every day they're out and
eventually (not that long a time) they will go on your finger
immediately outside the cage.
Call me if you have any questions. I've had budgies all my life.
My DTN is 244-6724.
Sandy
P.S. One of my past budgies took 7 months to tame -- he was older
but the reason was mainly that I wasn't persistent enough and let
him fly around without first making sure he was finger-trained well
enough inside his cage.
|
| 156.3 | More Thoughts | AKOV12::SELESKY | | Thu Apr 06 1989 10:37 | 42 |
| Carol,
Just reread your note again. Your budgies won't come to your finger.
You have to go to them. You need to place your finger against
their lower chest (just above their feet) and press against their
body so they have no other choice than to step up on your finger.
They will not go to your finger if it's not against their body
(unless they're finger trained already). Some people start with
a stick (like a perch) held against their lower chest above their
feet but I prefer starting right off with the finger. Like I said,
they may resist at first and be afraid (especially since they're
a bit older) but have patience, keep trying and don't remove your
finger until they've at least stepped onto it once or twice (even
if they get off immediately the first couple of days). Talk very
gently to your budgies as your trying this. As they calm down,
you may be able to gently stroke their feathers. Eventually, once
they're calmer and finger-trained, you should be able to kiss their
back, belly, beak and perhaps pet them a bit. Budgies don't really
like being petted on the back or belly but with gentleness and
patience, they will probably tolerate it eventually (mine all do;
in fact my last budgie liked me to gently rub the feathers on his
neck; all my budgies have let me kiss them easily; be careful though.
Some may bite if they don't like it. Mine don't bite; just give
me soft kisses back). Don't try to pet them unless they are very
calm and tame. That will just make finger training harder since
it will scare them too much. Wait until they are calmer and easily
going on your finger.
Remember -- they will not go to your finger. You need to bring
your finger right up to their body! You may want to start out with
just putting your finger in the cage and holding it there in the
middle of the cage for several minutes without trying to get them
to go on it. This way they'll first get used to seeing your finger
in the cage and see that it's doing no harm. Holding it steady
and not moving it towards them at first may calm them down to getting
used to a finger in their cage. Take each day slowly -- one day
at a time -- and you'll see progress. If your birds are in separate
cages, it really shouldn't take much more than 1-2 weeks to get
them finger trained if you practice with them at least 3-4 times
a day.
Sandy
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| 156.4 | So far she and I are having fun | MED::D_SMITH | | Thu Nov 02 1989 10:07 | 22 |
|
I just got a young female that has excepted this right off the bat.
I trimmed her wings so she was a little more managable, and just
spent the first hour together asking her to climb aboard. A week
later, she will try to climb on from a few inches away. She will go
from finger to finger, from in the cage to finger, out of the cage,
back in the cage and on her pirch. It's working great so far.
I am now trying to get her to fly from one hand to the other to
enjoy the treat waiting in my palm. She will go 6" but that's about
it. She is now being fed by hand only, but I put just enough in her
cage that it will be gone by pm. I hope soon, she will realize my
hand out and a verbal queue will mean come on ove from anywhere
in the house. I suspect she will be this far in a week or two.
So far, she has really excepted her fredom out of the cage. I am
hoping to come up with some really easy tricks to learn.
Has anyone got any sugestions?
Dave'
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| 156.5 | read note 40 and 102 | GIAENG::PULSIFER | Doug Pulsifer 235-3332, BPO1 | Thu Nov 02 1989 11:34 | 19 |
|
Hi Dave,
welcome aboard !
For tips on training I reccomend Steve MArtins Video and reading
notes 40 and 102. I think you have taken the right approach in
clipping the wings altough some people would disagree. I could
loan you a copy of the Video if you are local. I work in Marlboro
and live in Lunenburg.
Doug
dtn 235-3332
*< <* @>
^^0^^ ^^�^^ ^^0^^
^ ^ ^
|
| 156.6 | Yes...a video | MED::D_SMITH | | Thu Nov 02 1989 12:02 | 21 |
| Thanx for the welcome Doug...I may take you up on your video offer.
I work and live in Marl. Yes, some would not be pleased about the
clipping, but it is one way of getting their undivided attention
without them always thinking of flying away...the same reason a
larger bird would be clipped. She can still fly up-words, gets
tired and comes slowly down-word. She now realizes that it's easier
to just stay put rather than exhausting one's self, only to be
retrieved again. She will be allowed full flight after moulting,
but by then I am hoping to get her over any fear that may remain.
Most of what I will try to apply came from working with homing pigeons,
dogs, cats and horses. Gentling (build confidence), patients (the
hardest) incouragement (the need to try) and reward (treat for
attempting). Then it's just repeat, repeat and repeat untill down
pat.
Anyways...I would like to see the video, I'm sure it contains many
greate ideas and tactics. How can we work this?
Thanx again Doug, Dave'
|