Conference 7.286::pet_birds

    I am also a novice and have only had limited success so far. You
    will find that everyone will have a different approach.
    
    What I have done is take a dowel that is comforatable for the bird
    and used wide plastic tape to attach a 1 inch deep paper cup to
    the dowel. I placed the dowel through the bars in the cage so that
    it couldn't turn and let the birds get used to it. When they got
    used to it I extracted the dowel with the birds still on it. I then
    worked at getting my hand closer and closer until they would hop
    on my finger. I also put the dowel on my shoulder and got them to
    hop to my shoulder. When they are on my finger or shoulder I bring
    the dowel to my finger or shoulder and allow them to eat the seeds
    from the cup. When getting the birds to my finger or shoulder I find 
    that it helps to talk to them. My birds still don't like my hand
    in the cage.       
                                          
    I also have made a perch from a 2x4 and dowels that I sit on my
    coffee table. I have put enough dowels in the 2x4 to make a ladder
    for them to climb up from the table to the top dowel. On the top
    dowel I have also taped two 1 inch deep paper cups for seeds, one
    for each bird.             
                               
    I have two birds, Rita wings are clipped and Tweety's are not. Rita
    is a lot more tame, but it is enjoyable to see Tweety fly around.
    Tweety is my daughter's bird , if it was mine I would clip his wings
    too. Because Rita is sick I have not had them out much lately so
    neither one is very tame, but when Rita is tamed to my liking I
    may let her wings grow out.
                               
    I think you should look at all the different approaches and decide
    what suits you and your expectations.
                               
    Doug                       
                               
                               
                               

    See note 24 about a "scared parakeet".  This should help you!  the
    key is to be very very patient and also, clipping wings will take
    some of the aggression out of the bird and will help to tame them.
    Remember, when working with them, only work with one bird at a time
    as often as possible for no more than 15 minutes per session and
    be sure to eliminate ALL distractions.
    
    Exercise...the birds must be able to exercise their flight muscles.
    Even with clipped wings, they can still do this.  birds that are
    not allowed to exercise loose the flight muscle tissue and is is
    really HARD to build back up.  I have one totally unflighted budgie.
    
    And Doug....Think of how I got Bianca...Clipped birds still fly
    pretty well, just not as far or as long...but they can get around!
    
    8^}
    
    J
    

    re .2 -- How do you "work with them"?

    Sorry...was interrupted on .3.  Question is, do I just talk to the
    bird, etc (I read 24) until they want to come out of the cage on
    their own?  I have to take the cage into a bathroom or something
    to do it because of the dogs.

    Just a few thoughts to add to this...
    
    As Jean said, clipped birds will still exercise their wing muscles.
    They do this by gripping something (frequently the cage, but Max
    also has no qualms about using my shoulder too) and flapping furiously.
    The key is that they need enough room to do this.  If the cage does
    not have enough room, then the bird needs to be let out every day.
    Of course if you want a truly tame bird, it needs to be let out
    every day anyway.
    
    Also, clipped birds get around fairly well IF they are clipped
    properly.  The last vet that I took Max to for clipping did not
    do it right.  Even after I requested that Max be left with some
    flight power, he cut off all the primaries about 2/3 of the way
    down.  Poor baby dropped like a rock when he fell off my shoulder
    (because his nails were blunted so much that he had no gripping
    ability left).  Needless to say, I won't go to that vet again. 
    For parrots, the vet that I went to where we used to live, would
    cut only the first 10 primaries on each side, and she only cut 1/3
    to 1/2 of the way down on each feather.  This left Max able to navigate
    a controlled descent, but unable to do a "take off" or maintain
    height for any distance.  I don't know if you would use the same
    scheme on parakeets or not.
    
    Laura and Max Max
    

   re .3 and .4
    
    You were asking your question while I was replying.
    
    You should stand or sit by the cage and talk to them as much as
    possible to let them get used to you.  Once a day you should take
    them someplace, a bathroom is good.  Make sure there are no crevices
    or crannies that they could get into that would be hard to get them
    out of.  Take the top off the cage, or open the door, depending
    on what kind of cage you have.  Put it on the floor.  Most birds
    like to be up high, so this encourages them to come out.  Let them
    fly or hop around.  Try to get close to them.  This will be easier
    if they are clipped.  See if you can get them to take a treat from
    your hand.  Eventually you will have to catch them to put them back
    in.  Hold each for a little bit, but not too long.  Birds are easily
    stressed, and handling when they are not used to it is a big stress.
    
    Some people use dowels as described in another note.  My bird freaks
    at the sight of a stick in someone's hand, so that did not work
    at all for me.  I have found that there is no clear consensus when
    it comes to taming, except that you must never lose your patience,
    and never, ever hit or strike, even if they try to bite you.

    Good luck, and enjoy your little feathered friends!
    
    Laura and Mad Max
    

    OHHH don't cut all the flights off!  We leave the first three feathers
    on the wings so when the wing is closed, you still see those beautiful
    colors and cut the primaries close to the secondaries....I know,
    you are confused again....sorry!  Leave three long wing feathers.
    Then cut the flights (long feathers) to where the next stage of
    feathers are, I cut all the way up to the secondaries to keep little
    birds less flighted!  Be ever so careful not to cut into blood feathers
    though!  Like Laura says, butchering the wings is not good for the
    bird.  I can see/hear falling like a rock.  Poor Max!
    
    By working with the bird, you are devoting time with one bird at
    a time.  First approach the cage and touch it.  Occassionally, back
    your hand into the cage an approach the bird.  Use a perch or stick
    to get near the bird like Doug does.  This lets the bird realize
    that you are not going to hurt him, but give him a new place to
    stand.  Keep talking softly to him and eventually, put your fingers
    under his breast bone, while on the perch you are holding and he
    will step up!  Once you have the handling under control to a point,
    you can start trying to teach him to talk!  It takes time and patients,
    and usually, at least with my birds, about the time I'm ready to
    call it quits, they come around!
    
    One method I have tried is to just take the bird out of the cage
    and hold him against my chest and cover his head with one hand.
    Covering his head puts him in a submissive state and in most cases
    the bird quiets pretty quickly.  This is painful to the handeler
    though...buy lots of bandaids!  If the bird is really fighting you,
    stop though, you dont want to stress the bird into shock.
                                                             
    J  8^)
    

    RE:  holding bird against chest and covering head with hand...
    
    I have done something similar with Max, but I did not know if it
    was transferrable to the smaller birds.  The only difference is
    that I use a towel or cloth to cover the bird.  It greatly saves
    the hands.  I have sat with Max in my lap wrapped in the towel.
    If he starts to breath hard, though, I stop.  I also found that
    this tired him out, so that after I let him go he would just stand
    there and let me gently stroke the top of his head and his neck.
    
    Of course, with Max it was not so much that I needed to tame him
    (he would go to my husband readily), as I needed to convince him
    that he had to accept a certain amount of handling from me and get
    him to trust me.  (When we found him he seemed to have a deep distrust
    of women).
    
    Laura who_cried_buckets_of_tears_over_trying_to_get_Max_to_trust_me
    

    I have read all the information about how birds need to eat more
    than just seed.  So.....everyday I give them somethng (lettuce,alfalfa
    sprouts, pepper, celery, egg, carrots ...I've tried them all). 
    Problem is......they won't touch any of it. Just keep on eating
    the seed mix.  I tried dumping it on top of the seed, on the floor
    of the cage, attached next to the perch....still they won't touch
    it.  I've chopped, grated, and left it whole....no success.
    
    Any suggestions??????
    

    Re .9
    
    My birds (2 cockatiels) acted similar to yours -- only wnating to
    eat seeds.  I had tried every fruit and vegetable under the sun
    to no avail.  But, one morning, I had put some apple in the cage,
    and brought the seed and water cups downstairs to rinse them out.
    In the meantime, an old friend called from California, and I spent
    3 hours on the phone with her.  In the meantime, Hansel and Gretel
    got hungry, and ate the apple!  Ever since then, I haven't hAd a
    problem with them eating fruits and vegggies.  When I introduce
    a new fruit, I put the fruit in the cage and take the seed out for
    a little while, and  it seems to at least make them taste the new
    stuff.
    
    I doubt this is a highly recommended procedure, but it's what worked
    for me.
    
    	-Nancy
    

    Agree with .10.  Like Jean mentioned in a previous note, just make
    sure that you give the seed back at some point.  If the bird refuses
    to eat the fruit/veggie, you don't want him to go for too many hours
    without food.  But it certainly won't hurt the bird to not have
    the seed available for a few hours.  Since parrots are so suspicious
    of new things, I would start out concentrating on just one new food,
    so that the sight of it becomes familiar.  If it's a parrot, try
    grapes.  Even my finicky eater loves grapes.
    
    Laura and Max_the_grape_eater

    re: .10  Nancy...
    
    That's ok.  When my birds refused new foods, I took away the seed
    for the day!  They were forced to eat what was available.  However
    they got thier seed back at night, just to be sure they did not
    starve.  Again, Perservence is the key.  Just keep trying.  
    
    We have one bird that watches our mouths.  It's really hysterical.
    If you talk, she cocks her head, if you eat, she yells, if she's
    out while we are having dinner, she's on your plate.  Now, she eats
    what ever we offer her.  The first bird I ever had that was hand
    fed ate anything....he taught the others to eat.  Birds are funny
    if they see someone else eat it, they will too!  
    
    Just a note though...just plain iceburg lettuce has no food value.
    The "mutant" lettuce, like romain, red and and boston are good.
    Try some  swiss chard...that has been a hit since day one!
    
    j 8^}
                                     
    

    
    Thanks for the tips on taking away seeds to force them to eat fruit.
    
    I had a problem with eggs, so after I hard boiled them I mixed them
    with milk and whole wheat bread and they loved it.  Now they will
    eat just the plain egg but sometimes I still mix the bread and milk
    for a treat.

    My Turd Bird (Chewy) much prefers the vegies/fruits and eggs to his seed.
    We do have a half and half mix with Mini Friends Parrot Chow and
    the seed so he probably figures "Forget this stuff with the brown
    chunks in it!" but he does eat it.  I guess every little body is 
    different.  My Quaker babies wouldn't eat egg when I got them.  
    The egg is so good for the babies so what I did is mashed it right
    into their seed which means to get the seed they had to try the egg.
    Well this worked wonders.    Now they eat the egg before the seed.
    
    Try mixing it all together, some birds aren't sure if they like
    something until they try it a few times.
    
    See ya-
    
    Ps.
    
    Gotta be careful with the Egg cause it spoils quickly.

    My finches will eat just about anything.... Their 2 favorites are
    broccoli flowers (raw) and carrot tops.  I keep the carrots in a
    dish with a little water right in their cage.  As the greens grow,
    they bite them off.  They like alfalpha sprouts but they throw
    them around the cage.  They also like hard-boiled egg, melon and
    apples.  I never saw such a small animal eat so much!!!  They seem
    to eat anything I give them.
    
    cheryl
    

    I took the seed dish out last night about 6 pm and put it back with
    a slice of sweet red pepper and thawed frozen broccoli.  When I
    checked at 7 am, they had not touched the vegetables and were actively
    expressing their displeasure at me.  I put the seed back in so they
    could eat.  Should I continue doing this every day, switch time
    periods, leave the vegies till they eat them, or what?
    
    I'm thinking about making up the mixture from the feeding note this
    weekend.  When you use it, do you eliminate the seed altogether,
    or feed it once a day and seed also?  
    
    Sorry for all the dumb questions, but I want to do this right. 
    I'm sure the budgies are "the first birds" and there will be more.
     
    The other big problem I'm having......I haven't been able to try
    and let them out yet because I'm afraid the dogs will get them.
     Does anyone have experience with getting your dogs used to the
    birds?  Right now, both dogs leap up every time the birds make a
    noise.  Should I bring the cage down to their level and let them
    see, or will that make it worse? I don't want to terrify the birds
    either.
    

    Hi, As far the dogs, If they can't be trusted or controlled I would
    put them in another room. I have to do this with my cats. My dogs
    are well behaved and only ocasionally jump toward the birds when they
    fly over. This is amazing to me as they are bird dogs, Cocker Spaniels.
    
    
                 

    Hi,
    
    I wouldn't put the cage at the dogs level.  If you are  not home
    during the day, then the dogs will not be disiplined for lurching
    or barking at the birds and therefor they will do it constantly
    and think its OK.  Them spending the day (thinking that they are
    playing) will cause the birds great stress and stress is one of
    the biggest things to avoid with your birds if at all possible.
    
    I would allowed controlled meetings.  Possibly with the dogs on
    a leash or if your birds are hand-tamed you can introduce them to
    your dogs on an on-going bases until the dogs become disinterested
    which is what happend with my Dalmation, or until they learn
    through training that the birds are a NO-NO.  Then as with my dog,
    if your home, you can allow them to co-habitate outside of thier
    cage but... With an ever watchfull eye!
    
    Possibly also, if the potential exists for you birds to escape into
    an area where the dogs could harm them, then I think I would leave
    their wings UNclipped so they have some way to escape them.  Sometimes
    the excessive flapping (trying to escape danger) from a clipped
    bird causes the dogs to become more interested.
    
    All-in-all, you still can't be too careful.  I had a friend who
    had a pair of cockatiels, hand raised.  She had them for over 3
    years and the dog for longer.  One day she came home and found that
    they had gotten out of their cages and only the feathers of one
    could be found.  The other had found a place to hide.  Both where
    clipped birds. 
    
    Please be careful, you can't fully take natures instincts out of
    any animal.
    
    See ya...
    
    

    re -.1
    
    When I had my 'keets, by dog used to go up to the cage and put his
    nose between the bars.  The on guy used to peck on his nose.  They
    got into some pretty heavy screaming matches too.  Brindle (my dog)
    even used to knock the cage off of the table.  I now have finches
    and he really hates them, because they don't play with him...He
    clims the bookshelf and bites the cage.  Needless to say, he is
    not allowed into the bird room while I'm at work.
    
    PS.... I sometimes wonder if he is part cat because he brings mice
    from the yard into the house too!!!
    
    good luck.....
    cheryl
    
    

    As far as the dogs go, I'm with everyone else!  Good advise!
    
    As far as the seeds go, well, feed the 'new' foods in the morning,
    an replace the seed in the evening.  They will catch on for you
    and you don't run the risk of starvation!
    
    <soft flame on>
    
    	THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A STUPID QUESTION!  STUPID QUESTIONS
    	ARE THE ONES THAT NEVER GET ASKED!!! I THINK QUESTIONS ARE A
    	SIGN OF INTELLIGENCE AND CARING.  AFTER ALL, IF YOU DON'T KNOW,
    	YOU ASK.  IF YOU DON'T ASK, YOU CAN'T KNOW.  THEN, YOU WON'T
    	MAKE MISTAKES!
    
    <soft flame off>
    
    	8^)  Gee, that felt good, I never flamed a note before!
    
    Keeping birds is an experience second to none...there is sooo much
    to learn and you learn everyday!  Everyone here has good information,
    comments and experience to share, and after all, isn't that what
    we are here for?  :')
    
    J

    Sorry about the dumb questions comment!  I feel free to continue
    asking......
    
    I didn't intent to leave the cage within reach of the dogs....just
    thought letting them have a short look periodically might help.
     Guess I'll try it and watch closely to make sure the birds don't
    get too upset.  
    
    I'll make up the food this weekend, and try it in the mornings,
    give them the seed back in the evening.  J....do you feed the mixture
    exclusively after you get them used to it??
    
    I have Vionate vitamin/mineral mix from the vet.  The daily dosage
    is listed as 1/8 tsp per small bird.  Any estimates on an amount
    to add if I use the recipe from the previous note?
    
    One more question -- I've been getting conflicting advice as to
    whether I should offer gravel to the budgies.  Any opinions on this?
    
    

    My sister has been breeding Budgies for over 10 years.  she has
    never fed gravel.
    
    I feed my bourkes (type of grass parakeet) ground oster shell.
    
    both of us have not had any trouble.  what's best who know's?  but
    my personal feeling is that oster shell desolves over a period of
    time and the rocks do not.

    About that grit...In MY opinion...DON'T USE IT.  Especially in budgies!
    See, grit is gravel and gravel is rocks and rocks are not a digestable
    product and it can cause major problems over time.  See, budgies
    for some reason are compelled to gorge themselves on it and get
    impacted crops.  
    
    The intent of feeding grit is ok.  Average cage birds should have
    2-4 GRAINS maybe 3 times a year.  The gizzard, a muscular sub stomach
    type organ is ultimately walls of very hard tissue.  As the food
    enters the gizzard, the walls in conjunction with the grit, grind
    up the food ingested.
    
    Oyster shells are a good mineral and calcium supplement, but do
    not serve in the gizzard as a grinding tool.  The ONLY birds I
    frequently give grit to are the doves...If you supply mineral blocks,
    cuttle bones and supplements, then use the oyster shells moderately.
    
    And, yes, for a long time, when I did not have to work out of the
    house, all the birds ate was that mix...We need to name that recipe,
    any suggestions all?
    
    J(ean)  8'}
    

    Hi Diane, 
                                
    How is the taming coming ? I have been making progress, now that I can
    let the birds out again. I have been offering Jeans recipe to them in
    the morning and leaving it for the day with no seeds. At night I let
    Rita and Tweety out and put seeds in the palm of my hand. I was
    offering them my hand and they would reluctantly eat the seeds, but
    last night they were sat on the top of the cage waiting. As soon as I
    put seeds in my hand Tweety flew right over, and when I put my hand
    near enough Rita hopped right on too !  They still like their seeds
    best.
                                    
    Rita even let me stroke her back. Tweety even almost doesn't mind
    being patted.
                                        
        
        Doug

    Hi,
    
    Not much luck with the taming I'm afraid.  I had to go home to Illinois
    last week and help out my parents due to one having just had a hip
    replacement and the other in the hospital for the same thing, so
    they got no attention.  I've been trying every day otherwise just
    putting my hannd in the cage -- they still freak out.  Sunday, I
    gave the cage a thorough cleaning -- took the bottom off and coaxed
    the "tamer" of the two out by holding the cage in the air with no
    bottom.  I held him/her for a while, but every time I took my top
    hand off, he/she took off.  His wings are clipped but he still managed
    to get to the top of the cabinets in the bathroom!  Then he crawled
    under the heater vent and screamed at me!  The other bird (name
    if Toby, by the way---stands for T.O.B. -- The Other Bird) still
    gets totally hysterical if I even come near.  
    
    I haven't been able to mix up the "magic bird food" yet since I
    had to go home, but have been offering fresh vegetables, crackers,
    or fruit every day --- they still won't touch anything but the seed.
     Needless to say, I'm getting a little frustrated on both counts,
    but hanging in there!
    

    You could try putting them in separate cages in separate rooms!
     If the birds are together, or see one another, your going to be
    dead in the water so to speak...birds bond to other birds and quickly
    forget who feeds them!
    
    The bottom line really is patients!  Doug did it!  I've done it,
    so will you!  Really!
    
    J
    

    So.......are you telling me I won't be able to tame them if I leave
    the two together????  I orginally bought just one (Smoky), but he
    looked so lonely. The book I bought also said it was almost
    cruel to have only one since they instinctually travel in flocks
    and need to have another one to relate to, preen etc., so I went back
    two days later and picked up Toby. Of the two, Smoky is far more
    tame (Toby has screaming hysteria if I get near), so I've been
    concentrating my initial efforts on Smoky.  
    
    Now I'm feeling really frustrated.
       

    Hi, your book was misleading!  Birds ARE very social and prefer
    other birds to people...I don't think you *screwed up* though! I'd
    recommend separating them for a time, get them tame, then you can
    put them back together.  
    
    Or do like Doug does with Tweety and Rita!  Take each and go to
    a different room.  Spend 15 minutes per session and return them
    to the cage.
    
    Also, when handling Toby, keep one hand over his head....this keeps
    the bird submissive!  I'm confident that in time, your disappointment
    will subside!
    
    Jean

    I don't have the cash for a second cage right now, so I'm going
    to try working with one bird at a time.  What I do is take the cage
    into the bathroom, try and get them to come out by holding cage
    up with no bottom.  So far, only Smokey has ventured out.  Now,
    should I try and get both out first, then catch one at a time, leaving
    the second one out, but not paying attention to it?  I think part
    of my problem getting them out is the fact that the guy I bought
    the birds from also sold me a finch cage (didn't know it at the
    time), so the doors are pretty small.  It also makes it a little
    difficult to get them back in the cage once I finally get them out.
     I put a landing perch in front of the door, but so far it hasn't
    worked.  Also the doors open by raising them up, but there is no
    way to leave them open short of using tape.  Am I missing something?
    

    HI!
    
    So far, sounds, so good!  Don't let one bird loose, while working
    with the other...flying freely will distract the bird you are holding.
    
    And the finch cage...it's not the doors that are the issue here.
     It's the direction of the bars.  Finch bars go up and down, vertical,
    and hook bill bars go horizontal.  The difference is for flying
    or climbing birds.  Finches are flying birds, and climbing birds
    in a finch cage can slip and force thier heads through the bars....
    
    Other than that, you are on the right road!  Now, take a nice deep
    cleansing breath.....  8^}
    
    J
    

    My cage also has vertical bars, but my keet can still climb on them.
    As far as holding the doors open I use a wooden spring clotes pin.
    Instead of forcing them out of the cage, I would take their food
    away a couple of hours before working with them. Then put a food
    dish near the cage door to lure them out, first on the inside then
    the outside.                    
                                    
    Once they are outside I would move the food dish(seeds) farther
    away from the cage. Once they are used to being away from the cage
    I would keep putting either a perch or your finger closer and closer
    until you can get them on it. My perch with attached seed cup worked
    great for me, especially when they werre hungry. Making sure they
    are hungry really is good because then they "need" you.
                                       
    Once you have tamed one of them, both of them could be let out together
    as the second bird may follow along and do what the tamer one is
    doing. My birds are more comfotatble and more apt to sit on my shoulder
    when I put both of them on at once.
                                      
    Remember the key word  "PATIENCE" 
      
    I was surprised how it seemed like I was making no progress and
    then all of the sudden they make a big improvement.

    Good luck
    Doug
    

    Made some real progress yesterday!!  Took the cage into the bathroom,
    put it on the floor, opened the door, laid millet on the floor outside
    the door, and waited.  No luck, they wouldn't venture out.  While
    sitting and waiting, I made an amazing discovery -- the roof of
    the cage could be taken off with a little effort!  Took it off,
    and voila....in a couple of minutes Smoky came out!  Held him for
    a few minutes, got him on my finger and he was pretty stable. Then
    had my roommate come in and take him and I got Smoky.  I held him
    for about 10 minutes ( he bit me for the first five -- hard!), then
    calmed down and actually got him to the finger.  He freaked and
    took off a couple of times, but I was able to get him back and on
    my finger again each time for a minute or so.  
    
    Noticed this morning, Smoky was actually trying to open the cage
    door......so apparently he has decided "outside" is not so horrible!
    
    Made up a batch of the bird food Saturday.  They are not thrilled
    with it so far.  I'm mixing it half and half with seed, so they
    keep getting pieces trying to get the seed.  I think they kind of
    enjoy picking out the corn kernels and throwing them around the
    cage!

    correction to previous reply......had my roomate take Smoky while
    I worked with Toby.  He is far more frightened than Smoky, so this
    was the first time on the finger for him!

    YOU DESERVE AN ATTABOY!
    
    See, being patient paid off!  Keep up the good work!
    
    J  8^}
    

    Hi, 
    
      I'm a bit worried about one of my budgies, hopefully someone out
    there may be able to put my fears at ease or at least tell me what's
    going on with him.  It seems that his beek below his cere is kinda,
    well, I don't know how to describe it but like dry and flakey, also the
    feathers that usually cover under the bottom part of the beek (excuse
    the spelling please) are thining out or it looks that way any way.
    he is rather old in comparison to my other 2 females, I would geuss
    about 2 to 3 months older than them, and didn't know if this was
    something that is prevelent with the males or what.  I am going to call
    the vet tomorrow or the pet shop I bought him from to see if they know
    what is wrong with his beek.  Other than his beek he is very active and
    seems rather happy.  I would appreciate any help or advice anyone could
    render.
    
    Patti

    
    I HAVE RECENTLY PURCHASED A 9 WEEK OLD GREY COCKATIEL.  I AM SEEKING
    SOME HELPFUL SUGGESTIONS TO ASSIST ME IN TRAINING MY NEW PET.  I
    AM A SUBSCRIBER TO BIRDTALK AND FINALLY HAVE PURCHASED A BIRD. 
    I MIGHT MENTION THAT I WAS UNCERTAIN AS TO WHICH TYPE OF BIRD I
    WOULD LIKE, AND DECIDED FROM HERESAY THAT COCKATIELS MAKE EXCELLENT
    FIRST PETS.  SO, ANY ADVICE WOULD BE MOST APPRECIATED.
    
    (GREAT TO BE A PART OF THE FEATHERED KINGDOM) 

    
    why does't my parrakeet eat fruit? he only wants seeds'

    It is not easy to get a Parakeet(Budgie) to eat fruit or Veggies
    once they are used to seeds. I tried for months with only limited
    sucess. They used to eat corn and Rice only.  
    
    I more or less gave up and now feed Topper Seeds, which are supposed
    to be a complete diet. I still give them Parsley 3-4 times a week
    and pieces of Apples or corn sometimes.
    
    I used to feel I was not doing my duty in getting my budgies to
    eat Veggies, but have since been told that Budgies are the toughest
    to get to eat thier veggies.  Soem budgies love veggies though although
    mine don't.            
                           
    It is worth trying but don't get your self too worried if all they
    eat is fortified seeds.  I had one Budgie that lived about 12 years
    on seeds and vitamins in his water. If you let your budgie eat with
    you at the table he may try whatever you are eating, but be sure
    not to let him eat food that may have bacteria from your mouth.
    
    There are also mant entries in this file with detailed instructions
    on how to convert you bird, I have tried most of them.
    
    Doug
                                        
                        *<    <*      @>     
                      ^^0^^  ^^�^^  ^^0^^  
                        ^      ^      ^        
                                        
    
                     

Sunday I bought a 15-wk old parrakeet from a pet shop here in Augusta, Maine. 
I know nothing about birds but decided to try one.  My seven year old son has
been begging for a parrakeet for months.  

This one seems to be in good health.  He (she?) is white with a few black marks
and has a cere that is beige.  It was very lively in the cage at the store when
the saleslady was trying to catch her.  The saleslady also sold us a  package
of gravel and a "stone" to attach to the side of the cage.  The bird seemed to
be very quiet the first night.  We decided that it should reside in my son's
room and he should have primary care responsibility.  No chirping Sunday night. 
It seems to be very alert, however.  I  thought we should give it a day or two
to get used to its new surroundings, then I thought my son could try to get it
used to his finger in its cage.   

Last evening I was able to get him (her) to  perch on my finger.  She seems to
have calmed down a lot; is starting to chirp every once in a while and is
enjoying her cage.  The cage is quite large and there is plenty of room for her
to fly.  When she stands in the middle of the cage her outspread wings don't
touch the sides at all.  She can fly from the bottom to the top.  I decided to
get a larger cage than the small ones in the pet shop because I figured it
would need more room.  I didn't measure the cage but I would guess it's about
24" tall and about 15" in diameter.  It's shaped like the one in the Tweety
Bird cartoons.

Benny named his bird Streaker.  

Once she is finger trained Benny would like to let her out in his room at least 
once a day.  He's looking forward to having the bird perch on his shoulder
while  he reads.  She did put one foot on his finger last evening too.  I think
his  finger is so short compared to mine and his arm didn't quite reach easily
to the  back of the cage so Streaker was a little more shy with him.

I bought the seed that the pet shop was using.  It's not Hartz Mountain.  Seems 
to be a vitamin enriched seed especially for budgies.  Can't recall the name 
though.

We spread some gravel on the bottom of the cage.  Would it be better to have a 
little in a dish hanging on the side of the cage?  I hate to see the droppings 
in the gravel.

I could clip the wings but I wonder where this bird seems to be ready to stand 
on a finger in the cage whether I still need to???  She does seem to be quite 
young.

I took some cotton yarn, doubled it and knotted it and hung it from the top of 
the cage.  She has a swing at the top of  the cage that she seems to really
like.


Do we need to provide it veggies and fruit?  How often?

What about other toys?

Any other suggestions?

Any good books to consult?

Thanks in advance for any help . . .

    Hi Sue,
    
    The Gravel should be offered in very limited amounts an in a separate
    dish, probably about a teaspoon once a month. Some birds tend to eat so
    much they get impacted.
    
    The clipping can open up great debate among pet bird owners. I feel
    clipping is necessary both for safety and training. Safety , because
    Benny is young and is apt leave a door open and Streaker, may Streak
    out into the wild blue yonder or into your Dog or cats mouth. Training,
    because Streaker will be dependent on you to get around and will not be
    able to just fly away when he doesn't want to cooperate.
    
    With the cotton yarn, you want to be careful that his toenails don't
    get too long and caught in it. 
    
    Doug

    Hi Sue,
    
    Another Activity you can share with your Budgie is mealtime. I let my
    pet budgie(Buddie) sit on my shoulder at breakfast, and he eats a peice
    of my toast. I keep a peice of toast separate from what I am eating so
    that he doesn't get any of my bacteria. Mammal bacteria is very bad for
    birds, so if you bite the toast Streaker should not have the same
    peice.
    
    Doug

    
    You got to be awful careful at breakfast time with birds.  We had one
    make a quick dash from my daughter's shoulder to her plate. 
    unfortunately, her plate had pancakes AND syrup!!!  YUCK!!!!
    
    Chris D.

    I'm new to this conference and though I looked through all topics, I
    find no place for this question.... so this looks like a good place to
    start.
    
    My question is: IF you were new to BIRD care/ownership and wanted to
    be sure to keep track of as much a bird history as possible, what
    would you keep records of and where would you keep it? 
    
    A better question might be: WOULD YOU EVEN KEEP SUCH A THING ON BIRDS?
    
    If so, read on... if not, I guess I need to learn lots more about birds
    as pets..!
    
    Example: I would guess keeping health history, Types of foods, maybe
    a picture (in case of loss)...
    
    What else (if anything), or what would NOT be necessary to keep records 
    of..?
    
    Thanks for any information you can give.
    
    Bob G.
    

     
    	I recently bought a sun conure(from classifieds) and my question
    is how cold/hot can a bird stand?  Right now he's on a closed in,
    finished porch but its not insulated.  He seems very happy out there
    so I hate to have to bring him in.  I cover him with a sheet and
    towels at night plus he likes to sleep under a hanging face cloth.
    At what degree do I need to bring him into new living quarters?
    
    						Sue