Conference noted::woodworking_and_tools

    I'm completing a curly maple bookcase and have a question on sanding
    sealers. While applying stain to a scrap piece of curly maple I noticed
    that the stain really soaks in to the figured parts on the grain. When
    viewed from one angle it looks like a dark blotch. Viewed from the
    opposite angle it looks light in color and the grain pattern is
    apparent (the more desirable effect). 
    
    What I'm looking for is suggestions on how to pre-treat the maple so
    that the stain doesn't soak in resulting in a big dark blotched area.
    Sanding sealers and soft-wood treatments seem to be options but I'm
    looking for comments from anyone whose dealt with finishing figured
    woods.
    
    ~jeff

re: .34

>    I'm completing a curly maple bookcase and have a question on sanding
>    sealers. While applying stain to a scrap piece of curly maple I noticed
>    that the stain really soaks in to the figured parts on the grain. When
>    viewed from one angle it looks like a dark blotch. Viewed from the
>    opposite angle it looks light in color and the grain pattern is
>    apparent (the more desirable effect). 
>    
>    What I'm looking for is suggestions on how to pre-treat the maple so
>    that the stain doesn't soak in resulting in a big dark blotched area.
>    Sanding sealers and soft-wood treatments seem to be options but I'm
>    looking for comments from anyone whose dealt with finishing figured
>    woods.
    
I don't think sanding sealers will help you here.  The problem is that
maple takes pigment stains erratically (as you've observed).  I'd suggest
that you try a gel stain or aniline dyes.  I've had good luck with both.

I also recommend that you get a copy of Bob Flexner's book "Understanding
Wood Finishing".  It explains all of this stuff pretty well.

-Hal

    I'm not sure if you consider cherry a "figured" wood, but it presents
    similar problems when finishing. Since the wood absorbs unevenly even
    on the same board, it blotches when you put anything on it.
    
    I've had very good results with Bartley's Gel. In my case, I don't
    stain the wood, but put their clear satin gel varnish on it. Everything
    else I've tried including "wood conditioners", danish oil, oil based
    varnish and water-based poly, all turn out blotchy. The gel doesn't
    penetrate the wood and gives the best results.
    
    Try this web site for more info:
    
    http://members.aol.com/woodinfo1/salpage.htm
    
    The section on finishing cherry might be applicable among other things.
    
    Good luck.
    
    Art