Conference noted::motorcycle

	Front dual disks on the Seca are sticking, enough to make pushing
the bike a little tough. Will the $40.00(Ouch!) seal kit from Sloan and a
good cleaning of the calipers take care of the entire problem?

thanks,

Rick

> <<< Note 708.5 by KWLITY::SUTER "and now for something you'll really like!" >>>
>                              -< A *REAL* drag! >-
>
>
>	Front dual disks on the Seca are sticking, enough to make pushing
>the bike a little tough. Will the $40.00(Ouch!) seal kit from Sloan and a
>good cleaning of the calipers take care of the entire problem?
>
>thanks,
>
>Rick

	Read thru the owner's manual last night. The caliper rebuild seems
pretty straight forward. Should I know about any gotchas?

Rick

>> <<< Note 708.5 by KWLITY::SUTER "and now for something you'll really like!" >>>
>>                              -< A *REAL* drag! >-
>>
>>
>>	Front dual disks on the Seca are sticking, enough to make pushing
>>the bike a little tough. Will the $40.00(Ouch!) seal kit from Sloan and a
>>good cleaning of the calipers take care of the entire problem?
>>
>>thanks,
>>
>>Rick
>
>	Read thru the owner's manual last night. The caliper rebuild seems
>pretty straight forward. Should I know about any gotchas?
>

	Began the caliper rebuild last night, and it ain't gonna be as easy
as I first thought. The master cylinder is buried under the steering head
requiring removal of the frame mounted fairing to access it. And even at that
it's *REAL* tough to get at and requires a syringe to add fluid. It will be
a miracle if I can manage to keep all the paint currently on the bike where
it belongs! :-)

	I pulled apart one of the calipers and while the piston cleaned up
very nicely with a simple wipe down, the same was not true for the caliper
bore. It's got what appears to be a haze or varnish-like "film" over a 
majority of it's surface. A simple wipe down does not appear to remove this.
How is this surface normally cleaned up?

thanks,

Rick

    -1
    
    What i would do is "sand" the inside of the bore with croakus cloth
    NOT emery cloth. Keep the cloth lubed with some Dot3. Then wash the
    bore out with some isopropyl alcohol.
    
    
                                                  Mike

    
    re .7
    
    Rick, the m/c cant be buried under the steering head. Its right there
    were the front brake lever is. The brake lever is attached to it. 

>       <<< Note 708.9 by ASABET::SOTTILE "Get on Your Bikes and Ride" >>>
>
>    
>    re .7
>    
>    Rick, the m/c cant be buried under the steering head. Its right there
>    were the front brake lever is. The brake lever is attached to it. 

	Steve,

	If only it were true! Jackie's Virago has the M/C on the handle
bars attached to the brake lever, but the Seca has a cable that runs from
the brake lever down between the forks where the M/C resides. I forget what
that portion of the front end is called that actually holds the forks. Triples??
But, the master cylinder is right in there, behind all the wiring and in front
of the steering head. It stinks!

	I tried a few auto parts stores looking for "crokus" cloth and 
an EZ bleeder. All I got were blank stares. Do I need to hit a bike shop?

thanks,

Rick

    On my last BMW the m/c was under the gas tank!
    
    I found crokus cloth at good hardware stores. The brake bleeder-
    probably at a decent bike shop or mailorder.
    
    Rick, don't know where your located so that I can be more specific.
    
                                                       Mike

	Found the Crocus cloth at the local HW store as suggested
and the power bleeder (AKA: Vacuum tester) at another parts store.

	However, after cleaning everything up and replacing the 
seals, the pistons went back into the calipers *REAL* hard. I had
to drive them in with a drift/hammer (probably could have used a
C-clamp as well..). But, did I screw them up or are they always
this tough to re-insert?

thanks,

Rick

    
    
    Rick, 
    
    if you had to drive the caliper pistons in place with any force 
    I think you might have a problem, it could be that the piston
    seals are in wrong. on the other hand if you had the bleeders 
    closed and the lines connected it could be just that the 
    displaced air was holding up the opperation. Its usually best
    to apply a little bit of brake fluid to the caliper before 
    pressing in the piston (with the bleeder open)
    
    What type of seals do those calipers hold, is it the O ring style
    or the more std liped seal? I've seen the O rings get hung up on
    the piston and actually tear and get hung up on the cyl walls. 

Steve,
    
>    What type of seals do those calipers hold, is it the O ring style
>    or the more std liped seal? I've seen the O rings get hung up on
>    the piston and actually tear and get hung up on the cyl walls. 

	The lines were disconnected and the bleeders were open.

	The seals are the O-ring type. 2 in each caliper. The situation 
you describe is exactly what I was thinking may have happened, despite
coating the caliper bore/seals *and* the pistons with brake fluid prior
to reassembly.

	I have not re-filled the system with brake fluid yet. Which would be
your choice from this point.... Fill the system, cross your fingers and
watch closely for leaks... or remove the pistons and check for damage before
doing anything else? Argh...

thanks,

Rick

    
    
    When it comes to brakes, I would go the cautious route.  Having the
    front wheel lock or have the lever come back to the bar is not fun.
    
    Scott

	Pulled apart the calipers again and the good news is that
the seals are just fine. They just went together a little hard. As
suggested by other noters, better safe than sorry. I applied a *LIBERAL*
amount of brake fluid to both the piston and caliper bore and reassembly
was much easier the second time than the first. I managed to push them
together by hand, alhough I thought I had used plenty of BF the first time.

On to the bleeding.... (hmmmmm... me or the Seca?)

Rick

    
    Rick,
    
    When fitting the pistons try keeping the piston as parallel to the 
    caliper bore as possible, even the slightest deviation from this will
    make it difficult to insert them.
    
    Regards,
    
    Chris