T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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971.1 | how about one of these? | TYCOBB::XPTEMP | | Thu Jun 08 1989 16:51 | 19 |
|
Bonni,
I have several show horses who do the same thing. They get very
heavy and pull through your hands. All have been switched off the
plain snaffles and now go on "cork screw" snaffles. They look like
slow twists but aren't as severe because the edges are smoother.
If this doesn't work, the next step might be a slow twist that is
less inviting to pull through. Just be careful the first time you
ride in a new bit, especially a more severe one. It sometimes catches
them off guard and they could rear unless you're gentle.
Neither one of these bits are very harsh, just give the rider a
little more of an edge to make the ride less stressful and more
fun. My hunters love them.
Good luck.
Anna
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971.2 | bits | USWAV1::COBURN | | Fri Jun 09 1989 10:10 | 7 |
| YOu could also try a Kimberwicke, or a jointed Pelham...I ahve a
Standardbre mare who if allowed to will just stick her nose in
the air and go...something with a little leverage works wonders!
Be careful, though, they can be hard on the mouth, so keep your
hands as soft as you can...Godd luck!
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971.3 | ADDED STOPPING POWER | BELFST::MCCOMB | GARETH MCCOMB | Fri Jun 09 1989 11:24 | 22 |
| Bonni,
I ride a 7/8 thoroughbred who thinks he is boss at times and
we ride him in a French Bridoon bit. Basically it is a double jointed
snaffle but the centre piece has been rounded to make
its action less severe. This is in comparison to the DOCTOR BRISTOL
bit which basically looks identical but the centre piece has square
edges making it very severe.
The French bridoon ( unlike the Doctor Bristol) is allowed in
dressage tests as well and it is recommended by alot of the top
English competitors for Young Horses since it encourages them to
play with the bit and thus carry themselves nicely. I personally
found this to be true.
Also if you are concerned about damaging the horses mouth why
not add extra stopping power to his nose with a Grackle noseband
or a Kineton. I hope these are called the same in your country but
the Grackle is an X shape and the Kinneton is more severe.
I ride our horse in a Grackle more because he has a tendancy
to open his mouth but it also helps control him.
regards Gareth
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971.4 | | COMICS::PEWTER | | Fri Jun 09 1989 14:22 | 8 |
|
I would take it in stages. Try a jointed snaffle, perhaps as mentioned
in the last note with a grackle. (This works great on my horse).
If you find that doesn't work try something a little more severe
and go from there. Going straight from a snaffle to something like
a Pelham is not a good idea. This could work out expensive so I'd
see if anyone you know already has other bits you could try before
actually buying one yourself.
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971.5 | A change of bit as a quick fix. | MED::D_SMITH | | Fri Jun 09 1989 15:04 | 26 |
|
This is just my opinion but by going to a more severe bit, you are just
over looking the real problem being discipline or excess energy.
A change of bits in most cases is just a quick fix unless the bits
you are using don't fit him/her properly or are hurting them (teeth
as well). He or she should work just as well on a halter if obedience
is achieved. If he takes the reins from you, he either has no respect
for you or no respect for the bit. His actions should cause you
to inflict unpleasantness in one way or another. A new bit, if it
works, may fit his mouth better and your problems solved.
But he may resort to other means of evasion as well like head tossing
and rearing
I learned this the hard way by dealing with a head tosser, and
for a cure I changed to many diff. types of bits and martingail.
The only REAL fix was to show him that I am the boss, what I say
goes or you will suffer the penalty by repeating my intentions
untill you understand this. He now understands this after many hours
of repeated exercises. He found it no fun to circle many times,
turn away from home a work, get home and receive an extremmly hard
workout, and on, on, on.
Try some reschooling in the area of giving to the pressure of the
bit, because it sounds like this is the real problem.
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971.6 | | POBOX::KALLEVIGB | Onward through the Fog... | Sun Jun 11 1989 05:53 | 15 |
| I agree with .5 changing bits is one step in correcting the problem
but mutual respect is the solution. My TB is soft in the mouth but
likes to 'hang' on me. I started working him on the flat with a
snaffle but gradually changed up to a Dr. Bristol and *was* using
a double copper twist when jumping but changed to a double Palham.
This is where the riders experiance plays a vital part. I would
not suggest a double till you can properly control the bit. It *can*
be very severe if improperly used. If he is hanging on you, try
slight half-halts on the outside and if he's really dropping his
head use your legs to 'squeeze' him onto the bit. (A small spur
might also be a good aid) again depending on what level you're at
and what you feel comfortable with.
B.J.
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971.7 | DENTIST? | ASABET::NICKERSON | | Mon Jun 12 1989 13:04 | 3 |
| Have you had his teeth checked by the dentist? As I have found
out this can cause many problems.
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971.8 | me too... | THRSHR::DINGEE | CDD+ Development | Mon Jun 12 1989 13:57 | 23 |
|
I can empathize with you; my horse did the same thing - threw his
head up and out and he was then in complete control. I went from a
snaffle to a Kimberwicke to one of the easier "screw" bits. This
last bit gave me more control when I had to haul him in, and made it
easier for me to keep him on the bit, but he was still able to get
hold of it during jumping, or if we got up any kind of speed.
Then a woman who does a lot of riding saw one of my 'episodes' and
suggested a running Martingale. I'd tried a standing Martingale, but
it hadn't worked. Well, the running Martingale has made a new horse
out of him! Hopefully, if I use it regularly at home and out on the
trails, I won't need it for shows.
I can't go into the mechanics of the thing, since I don't know that
much about it, but I understand you need kind hands for it, and that
it makes the pressure on the bit more consistent. Maybe someone else
can explain? At any rate, I was feeling pretty awful about having to
go to a more severe bit, and now I don't! Maybe I'll even be able
to go back to a kinder bit.
Good luck!
-julie
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971.9 | Martingales create downword pull from reins. | MED::D_SMITH | | Mon Jun 12 1989 14:25 | 7 |
|
Martingales create a pull downwords when you pull back on the reins
as though using draw reins. This will keep his head down.
The same effect can be acheived from reining as low as possible,
whether english or western.
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971.10 | ;^} | JETSAM::MATTHEWS | whisper | Mon Jun 12 1989 15:06 | 7 |
| RE.5
AMEN!
WENDY O'
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971.11 | | DYO780::AXTELL | Dragon Lady | Mon Jun 12 1989 15:34 | 16 |
| On running martingales -
They can be either severe or gentle, depending on how "tight" they
are adjusted. The recommended way to adjust it is so that it only
comes into play when the horse raises it's mouth above the height
of your hands (remember straight line from the bit to your elbows?).
If it's too loose, there's no controlling effect at all. Too tight
and the horses head gets pulled into his chest every time you use
the reins. With a short martingale you also loose some lateral
control. You do end up with a pretty (but fake) headset and the
horse can continue to be disobedient.
About the only time I use running martingales anymore is with
student who hav a tendency to carry their hands too high (beginners
pull up instead of back for some reason) and a martingale limits
the effect of this on the horses mouth somewhat.
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971.13 | >>>>> .5 <<<<< | RUTLND::SWITCHBOARD | | Tue Jun 13 1989 14:02 | 23 |
|
.5
THANK YOU !!!!!!!!
Sometimes people are too quick to change the bit. Very often
the problem is the rider, not the horse. There are all kinds of
devices which make the riders job easier (bits, side reins, spurs,
etc) but don't actually solve any problems. It's not that I'm saying
these things are no-good, I just hate to see them used as a replacement
for proper/good riding. These devices are great aids but not escapes.
just my $.02 worth
Thanks
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971.14 | | SUBURB::SEDGWICKH | SKIPPY GOT A POSTCARD! | Wed Jun 14 1989 13:02 | 28 |
| Punch went through a bad patch of throwing his head around, and
walking along with his head on one side. We decided to get the
dentist in, but he found no hooks, and his teeth were not in bad
shape anyway, as we have them done once a year. We had a tip from
a friend, and tried him on a Hackamore (spelling???). He had been
riden with one before, so we knew he would know what to do.
Well my riding days, have completely changed. Hackamores work by
cutting off the air supply, and at the same time, pulling back on
the nose is a normal aid to a horse. It sounds harsh, and can be,
you must remember to ride with a very loose rein. This worried
me at first, as I knew that Punch wanted to go all the time, and
I did not want to pull back on the reins all the time. But it worked
the opposite way. He knew that he was on a loose rein all the time,
and no longer tries to take the rein from me. The responce time
of the Hackamore, is instant, at all speeds. He also Knows when
you are going to ask him to trot, walk canter etc, as he can feel
every move I make on the reins. But I think that the horse has
to be trained to work on one of these, and I do know they have to
be fitted.
Oh yes! He was on a normal snaffle before, with the bog standard
martingale.
good luck anyway
Helena
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971.15 | | JETSAM::MATTHEWS | whisper | Wed Jun 14 1989 16:17 | 16 |
| re.14
hackamore.. are you referring to the mechinical hack or the bosal.
if mech. my hackamore was up on the bridge of the nose and what
gave control was the chin strap and length of the shank (leverage)
also as far as gaits and etc, your body posture has alot to do with
transistion of gaits..
i agree some other horses you have to use a severe bit
but thats basically when i dont have time like (8months) to get
them where i want them, especially in speed events.
other areas its just not worth it to take short cuts..
wendy o'
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