| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 422.1 | just my 2 cents | USADEC::GILL | | Tue Aug 09 1988 15:54 | 44 |
| I would wait on the wormer until at least 5 weeks go by. I too
had an older horse that had not been wormed for at least 3 years.
I had what seemed like barrels of big round, fat worms of all shapes
and colors. She had a worm coat, and before I got her had coliced
three times. The last so bad that she had no corneal reflex in
her eyes. It was truly a miracle that she survived. The vet put
her on a rigurous worming schedule of every 6 weeks with liquid
Strongid T. It smelled like banana cream. Unfortunately the last
dose was too strong and it burned her insides. Delight smelled
like banana cream in her breath, sweat, manure, everything. Plus
she droped about half of her body weight. Enter Stephanie.
The effect of little or no worming is very dangerous. You must
realize that most all these worms migrate through the blood and
tissues at various stages. Delight was literally full of holes
and scar tissue. You worm with different wormers to prevent the
worms from becoming resistant to the wormer. Supposedly, with the
Zicmetrin you don't have to rotate. However, there has been some
concern that we will be building super worms for the future. I
do rotate, even with the Ivermectin, using Strongid T double dose
to take care of the tapeworms once a year.
As for shoeing at the same time as worming. Only for convience.
Like I schedule the dentist and the GYN at the same time every 6
months.
One note. Don't worm with Nega Bot wormer, EVER. It has been linked
with colic and founder. and DON'T USE FLY SPRAY ON THE DAY THAT
YOU WORM!! Don't mix those chemicals. Equacare Flysect is alright
to use, but not those heavy duty chemical pythrerins (sp?) it can
cause a founder situation.
Teeth should be floated twice a year, Spring and Fall.
Finally, when in doubt read, read, read. There are some very good
books on the subject of horse care. One good one "A Horse Around
the House." Little knowledge is a dangerous thing, know as much
as you can by asking people in the field, especially those vets
in equine hospitals such as Tufts and Rochester whose areas of
specialty can be much more informative than a book or a laymens'
opinion. They are always happy to help you help your horse.
Regards,
stephanie
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| 422.2 | \ | USADEC::GILL | | Tue Aug 09 1988 16:01 | 10 |
| Just to make one thing perfectly clear on the worming. I don't
use Ivermectin and a double dose of Stongid T. Lest anyone be confused.
One time during my worming schedule I will double dose with Strongid
- T to take care of the tape worms. Tapes can be carried by a little
mite that lives in grass, especially it seems on Candian hay. My
horse also has a worm count periodically to see how we are doing.
So far for the past 2 years he has had a zero count.
S.
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| 422.3 | WORMING SCHEDULE | EMASA2::NICKERSON | | Tue Aug 09 1988 17:33 | 9 |
| Somewhere in the notes, and I can't find it now, thre is a worming
schedule in here. However, I have one at home which I will try
to bring in tomorrow.
The reason you rotate is you usually want a different chemical
in each of the wormers so they don't become resistant. Will get
back to you tomorrow.
GOOD LUCK
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| 422.4 | worming/floating/shoeing | MRMFG1::D_SMITH | | Wed Aug 10 1988 11:03 | 58 |
| One of the horses we just got approx. 4 months ago was infested
with bloodworms. We had the vet (Dr. Robbins, Southboro) do a fecal
exame to find this out. The reason for the exame was we found the
prior owner only wormed 3 times a year (SHOES TWICE A YEAR/WHAT
BRUSHING?)!!!
The vet recommended rather than double dose, to worm every 4 weeks for
the next 12 to 16 weeks rotating wormers guided to towards bloodworms,
then the 4 weeks after the last worming, exame again. If still found,
she would either tube worm or recommend continueing every 4th week
followed by another exam. If negative, then resume a 6-8 week worming
program with a checkup every 6 months or so.
The reasoning behind this was these type of worms have a very long
and complicated life cycle, in which they can only be killed in
the first and fourth stage. While in the blood, they cannot be
destroyed. The most affected stage is the fourth stage (adult).
We had a fecal ckeck done a few months ago and she is negative now
so I'm back to 6-8 weeks with no worries, although I put an extreme
effert in breaking the cycle to begin with by removing any manure
daily from the paddack, and rotate paddacks often.
As for floating, one of my horses has not needed his teeth floated
in over a year now. We had the vet check him in the spring and
commented that there was no need to. The other has been every six
months. Each horse is an individual and this is one of the cases.
It also depends on what they eat. If the paddack is sandy, the teeth
will wear faster. Straw hay (common winter hay) causes a horse to chew
his food more than if he had fresh tender grasses.
I have a friend who boards (yes I have a friend), and he says the
dentist comes in and does the whole barn (19 horses), whether they
need it or not, every six months. To me, and my vet, if the horse
does not need it, then why do it. It costs a pretty peny for barn
calls and also, why cause premature teeth wear when a horse is eating
all day and doing just fine wearing them down himself (as long as the
wear is even and not creating sharp edges). Again a question comes up,
"who goes out a floats a wild stallions teeth/would you?". This
is natures way of weeding out the weak so the strong can survive.
The same goes for shoes. The average horse is shod every
six to eight weeks. In the winter, my horse was around every 14
weeks (no toe to trim, no shoe wear). Now during the hot weather,
good quality hay, and 2 hours plus riding a day, I have yet to go
over 7 weeks (to much toe, no shoes left).
Anyways, this is my feelings towards these subjects. It takes many
months to determine just what your horses needs are
(shoes/floating/feeding). I would follow the recommendations of
a vet for worming though, based on their findings during an
examination. Every vet has his/hers idea of an affective worming
schedule and every program uses diff. wormers for diff. months. I found
the only way to understand what all this ment was to read up on all
the types of worms, learn there life cycles like what season, life
span from egg to adult (stages) and how they can be broken, what active
ingredient is most affective against each type and take it from there.
It's worked for me so far. I have derived a worming schedule from
what I have learned and so far, my samples have came up negative,
therefore I'm sticking to it like glue untill proven otherwise.
|
| 422.5 | | USADEC::GILL | | Wed Aug 10 1988 11:09 | 23 |
| Your vet can set you up with a schedule. Have a fecal check and
that will tell your vet where your biggest problem lies. I would
rotate the Zimectrin anyway, no matter what the box says. I stongely
believe that like cockroaches, worms are here to stay. They have
managed quite will over the centuries to survive, often catoclysmic
changes in environment ect. that have killed other species. Although
probably not in my life time, I will not participate in creating
the super worm. Anyway, I don't believe that there is such a thing
as the correct schedule, except carefully following your 8 week
schedule, pasture rotation and maintenance. My vet set up a schedule
using Zimectrin (Ivermectin is the drug used in Zimectrin) Equvilan
(which is really very similar to Zimectrin) Stongid -T, Panacur,
and another which I can't remember. These wormers have a different
base drug in them which will kill worms. Zimectrin is good in the
mid summer (at least my vet likes to use it then) to kill worms
in all their various stages.
As for the Stongid -T, I use two syringes with the doseage at a
little over his body weight to kill tape worms. Check with your
vet.
regards,
stephanie
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| 422.6 | VET: | SEQUEL::GREGG | | Wed Aug 10 1988 11:14 | 14 |
| Hi Michele,
Since you are boarding with many other horses I think you should
ask your Vet on what type of wormer to use and how often to use
it. Your Vet is your best friend when you are a new owner and as
I very well know that this file helps out in many ways it is still
best to get your Vet's oppinion before desiding on what/when to
use a product or medication.
Who is your Vet? I have Paula Orcutt, she has helped me MANY times
and she is always willing to talk and answer my crazy questions.
Best of LUCK,
_D_
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| 422.7 | Just when I thought I had it (almost)figured out! | NHL::SILVA | I finally got a PONY of my OWNY | Thu Aug 11 1988 09:03 | 23 |
| I, too, am a relative new horse owner...
When I began my search for Strongid-T I was told that the -T stood
for Tube Worming. Now, I've heard about tube worming and wanted
NO part of it. So I purchased and administered the Strongid
(regular?).
My question, after reading the previous notes is:
Have I done any damage???
Is it as effective?
Should I use the -T the next time? or
Keep with the schedule (the one also in this notes file from the
Nashoba Valley Vet. Hosp.) and use -T at this time next year?
Both my "babies" look healthy, eat well, are active, have had there
yearly shots/exam, and worming on a regular basis by the previous
owners.
ANY help would be most appreciated!
Thanks,
Cheryl
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| 422.8 | | USADEC::GILL | | Thu Aug 11 1988 10:40 | 9 |
| Tube worming done by a vet is a necessary evil. I have it done
twice a year with regular worming inbetween. I have never heard
of the T in Strongid T standing for tube worming, but...
I would suggest having a fecal sample done on your horse at least
twice a year to see how your maintenance plan is going. Horses
may look happy and active, but you don't want to be feeding worms.
regards,
|
| 422.9 | | CSC32::M_HOEPNER | | Thu Aug 11 1988 12:15 | 10 |
| According to Colorado State University and Iowa State Univeristy
veterinary schools (and an article in the 1986 AVMA Journal) tube
worming is NOT absolutely necessary. They do recommend fecal samples
twice a year to make sure the paste (or other oral wormers) are doing
the job. If the oral wormers aren't doing the job, THEN tube worm.
Many practitioners still like their clients to tube worm twice a
year. An equal number agree with the university and journal reports
listed above.
|
| 422.10 | TUBE WORMING - NOT NECESSARY | SALEM::RATAY | | Mon Aug 15 1988 10:41 | 5 |
| I agree with .12, I've had horses for at least 15 years and started
out with the tube worming till I became more aware of the different
worming possibilities. At least for the past 12 I have never tubed
and have had many negative test results. Some vets recommend because
it adds to your bill!
|
| 422.11 | N.V.V.H a good choice | PBA::SILVA | I finally got a PONY of my OWNY | Mon Aug 15 1988 14:14 | 13 |
| Hi Michele,
I use the Nashoba Valley Vet. Hosp. for my two "babies", too.
They are very nice and don't mind answering questions (even those
'silly' ones) over the phone. I've also been following their worming
schedule and can mail you a copy if you like. I know that it's
in this notesfile -someplace- but i also have it in a file.
Are you near by? My 2 are in Harvard. Always glad to meet another
neighbor with common interests.
Cheryl
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| 422.12 | Close Enough For A Visit! | PBA::SILVA | I finally got a PONY of my OWNY | Wed Aug 17 1988 09:15 | 11 |
| Harvard (roughly speaking) is at the intersection of Rt. 2
and Rt. 110.
Is her schedule much different? I'm always interested in comparing
that type of information. Even if it does raise more questions than
answers, ==> which it usually does!
I am going to have a sample checked -just to know how they are
REALLY doing...now if I can only figure out which pile belongs to
who......
|