Conference noted::equitation

You are what you eat, and that applys to horses as well.  Source does
    a good job of making good feet, but you may need to resort to
    additional means of help.  Check with your vet and farrier.  I would
    strongly recommend NOT using Hoof Bond in place of shoes.  There
    is not conclusive evidence that this product can effectively hold
    together feet, especially feet that crumble.  However, Hoof Bond
    might work in addition to the shoes as a strengthener until the
    problem is resolved (nutritionally, or it may be in fact genetic
    and in that case all the Source in the world won't totely solve
    the problem). 
    
    Where are you that shoes and resetting cost so much.  Are you paying
    for new shoes all the time, even if the ones on your horses' feet
    are in good shape?
    paid that much for shoes in my life
                
    regards,
    stephanie

	I'm in Westminster Mass.  I have been assured that the farrier
is one of the best - and I'm sure he is.  

	The $85 shoes included pads, silicone, side-clips on the rear and
borium tips.  The $70 reset (old shoes used) included new pads, more silicone
and a couple of borium tips replaced.

	What ARE people paying for farriers these days, especially corrective
shoeing?

- Janice

	who-remembers-when-shoeing-a-horse-cost-15-dollars

    Since I have been in Colorado:
    
    Standard "keg" shoes with nothing special done I pay $40 for
    new shoes, $30 for reset.
    
    Toe weights in front, standard shoes behind -- $50.
    
    For aluminum in front, standard shoes behind -- $50.  (No resets
    here--the rocks take care of that.)
    
    Rocker toes, clips, pads and silicone in front and clips and
    trailers behind I pay $90 for new shoes and $50 for resets.  (We are
    trying to undo some previous shoeing work.) 
    
    Plus I'm spending lots on hoof dressing and biotin supplement due
    to the DRY climate conditions.
    
    In Iowa I paid around $35 for standard shoes and about the same
    for everything else.
 

    Janice,
    
    I've discussed various shoeing options with my farrier, including
    the 'rubber' shoe that was advertised at one point.  I sent for
    more information from the companies so my farrier and I could discuss
    it, but after weighing the expenses and other factors, I decided
    to stick with 'traditional' shoeing.  The one thing I wonder about
    whenever I see articles or ads on hoof bond is the ability of the
    hoof to receive proper moisture (although supposedly the bond provides
    a 'seal' that traps moisture in?)  In addition, as the hoof grows,
    you'll have to continue to reapply it to the untreated hoof area.
    
    I suppose you should first determine the reason for your horse's
    hoof condition, is it nutritional or genetic?  Will supplements
    help over time, or is this a problem you will always have to deal
    with?  The suggestion to use the hoof bond with shoes may be a good
    one depending upon what you determine the problem is caused by.
    
    The blacksmith that I've been using for the past 5 years charges
    about $32 for a reset and $38-$42 for new shoes (all around), depending
    on whether I have toe clips put on the hind shoes.  For winter shoes,
    it's about $54 for new shoes which includes front pads & silicone,
    plus borium all around.  I think his prices are one of the lowest
    in the MA/NH area, and he does an excellent job.

    Hold the hoof dressing and the mud!  I just received the latest
    issue of Horseman and there is a rather extensive article that deals
    with just this problem.  I will quote some of the article without
    permission of reprint, but I would suggest you hoof it to the nearest
    tack shop and grap one. 
    
    The Dynamic Balance of Hoof Moisture
    By Cherry Hill
    reprinted: Horseman Magazine March 1988 pg. 32
    
    If you've ever had a horse with poor quality hooves and asked for
    opinions on how to treat them, you likely received a plethora of
    advice.  Perhaps the recommendation from certain horse owners and
    even some farriers and vets was to apply hoof dressing.  Others
    might have suggested overflowing the water tank to create a mud
    hole.  While the basic intention is good, the actual advice is often
    the worst thing to do......... The modern riding horse evolved on
    semi-arid plains so the healthy hoof is designed to be dry and hard.
     The hoof wall is a part of a spring mechanism which encloses the
    inner structure of the foot.  The moisture balance in the wall controls
    the strength of the spring.  In a normal hoof, the outer layer is
    dense and tough with a moisture content of 15 to 20 percent.  The
    inner layer aerages about 45 percent..........Moisture diffuses
    outward from the moist, sensitive laminae toward the dry, hard outer
    wall.  When blood circulates freely to the hoof and from the hoof,
    the dynamic balance of moisture operates at an optimum level.
    
    In contrast, a hoof that is kept too soft (as opposed to to dry
    from not enough exercise) as in the case of the horse continually
    standing in water or repeatedly dabbed with too much hoof dressing,
    conntains too much moisture in the outer layer.....Excess moisture
    weakens the integrity of thelayers of hoof horn resulting inn soft
    punky hoof walls that peel and separate into layers.
    
    Usually the inside quarter goes first, then the outside quarter,
    then the toe and fianlly the heels.  When the heels separate into
    two layers, the inner layer collapses inward toward the sole.  The
    outer layer squishes out over the edge of the shoe.  This leaves
    no hoof wall to bear the weight of the horse.
    
    Too much moisture makes a horse's soles soft and susceptible to
    bruises and abcesses.
    
    Because excess moisture can be so damaging to a hoof, some researchers
    recommend never to apply greases or oils to the hoof.  Because of
    the two natural coatings on the hoof, dressings may not be able
    to penetrate anyway. .... Petroleum based products are find for
    lubricating steel but are counter-productive when used to condition
    hooves or leather.  Petrolatum emulsifies the hoof's natural oils
    and actually removes moisture.
    
    there is more but I think you get the idea.  Sorry to go on forever,
    but I thought that it was great FYI stuff for all.
    
    stephanie

    
    On my gelding I put Regular shoes(no pads) with a rolled toe
    and a raised heel. $55.00 He's done every 10 weeks, depending
    on wear of shoe. 
    
    My mare gets shoes, leather pads on front, oakum and rolled toe.
    She might have side clips, can't recall off hand, I pay $70 for
    her. She gets redone every 8 weeks.
                     
    Both are barefoot in the winter however. Just a trim I spend 
    $15-$20.
                                                
    Marianne
    

    514.5   oil/water dressing...
    
    I am curious.  Did the people doing the research look at horses
    in Southern Colorado (or other very dry areas of the country).
    
    I have heard warnings about "making" the hooves too soft.  I have
    seen it happen (one case back in Iowa).  
    
    However, I suspect that I would have to stand my horses in boots filled
    with hoof dressing to make them too soft here.  I have noticed that for
    my horses here, the frogs and heels are UNBELIEVABLY hard and dry (as
    in if I don't apply dressing on the frogs and heel--you can attempt to
    depress the frog with hoof testers and it doesn't depress at all!  Same
    with the heels.) 
    
    According to my old roommates vet anatomy books, that isn't exactly
    "normal".

    5.14.7
    
    I would tend to beleive that this research follows the standard
    practice of data collecting that research must follow in order to
    be considered "revelant" and not confounded.  Therefore I can assume
    that the researchers did not exclusively look at subjects strickly
    in one area of the world.  Science does not look upon generalities
    with much tolerance. 
    
    I would suspect that your horse suffers from the other extreame,
    and the article mentions that if hoof dressing is to be applied,
    it should be applied sparingly to the bulbs of the heels when they
    are begining to crack to restore pliability - and to use lanolin
    or fish oil (animal grease).  Being too hard would be just as bad
    as too soft, I would think.
    
    regards,
    
    stephanie_who_has_one_more_thing_to_worry_about
     

    RE:  514.8
    
    I questioned the research because I was interested who did the
    research, for what institution or company, and when.  
    
    Not all publications print research results only that have been
    reviewed by experts in the area of research being reported. 
    
    I apologize for questioning the source of this article in such a manner
    to cause you concern. 

    Mary Jo
    

    No offense was ever taken.  I am skeptical too about supposed new
    finds in any industry.  The article might have been culling of various
    experts from everywhere, and not any single institution.  However
    I think that, like me, when horse owners read the article they will
    feel comfortable with the "common sense" of it.
    
    Most responsible publication try very hard to not put their credability
    on the line with just any articles.  I know that from working at
    the Pedlar any "questionable" material was deep sixed.  We horse
    owners depend on these publications for knowledge and they depend
    on us for our money support.
    
    regards,
    stephanie