Conference noted::equitation

    
    OK, so I have a grey horse who's over 10 years old.  You are
    all picturing a basically white horse.  I'd like to picture that,
    but when I arrive at the barn, I find a really dirty gray horse.
    
    The question: How can I keep a light-colored horse reasonably clean?
    Sure, once the weather gets even remotely warm, I'm going to charge 
    out there and give her a bath (or two). But other than giving her a LOT
    of baths, how can I try to make her look clean now, and keep her clean
    later in the year?  
    
    I've been alternating using the curry and stiff brush to bring up
    the dirt (hopeless-- there's a year's worth of dirt under
    that thin coat) and using a soft brush (to just brush away the top
    dirt, ignoring what's underneath), but it seems like a losing battle.
    
    Related question: What factors (diet, grooming?) contribute to a
    healthy, shiny coat?  She was previously clipped, so her coat is
    short and rough right now; I'm hoping it'll grow out some.
                                                              
    							--carrie

Carrie,

     I once owned a grey also, so I know how difficult it is to keep one
clean.  As you say, even with regular grooming they are hard to keep clean.
Here are some tricks I learned:

     Use ivory liquid with warm water and a sponge to take out manure stains.
Use a sarvice (also called a thoroughcomb) in a circular fashion around all
parts (being careful of flanks, belly, and head).  But don't be afraid to 
go right down the legs with the sarvice.  
     Polish her off with a soft brush and wipe her down with a rubrag.  Beware
of bathing her -- even in 70 degree weather!  And always use warm water!
I am very cautious about bathing horses.  And I see so many people who do
it when it's really too cold.  
     Every now and then you could use Dazzle or Show Sheen on her.  It
makes their coat sleek and slippery so the dirt just slides right off.  It
also keeps their tails untangled.  I don't believe in using either of these
products regularly.  They are strong and may strip the horses coat of it's
natural oils.
     Finally, vitamins can make a striking difference in a horses coat.
A horse's good health reflects in his coat.  There are all kinds of vitamins
available.  I use Clovite.  Also, between January and spring shedding I give
my horses a tablespoon of Mazola (any vegetable oil will do) every day.
It seems to make their new spring coat grow in very shiny.
     In your case, a clipped coat growing back may seem dull for a while.
But I'm sure you'll have her looking sharp soon!

--Melinda

    	I own a dirtbag that just happens to be a leopard Appy.  I bought
    	him and I knew I would be forever regretting his WHITE body.
    
    	After years of brushing (on into the night.....) I came to my
    	bright idea - a VACUUM CLEANER!!  I must ride 6 days a week
    	and this really saves ma life!  I just suck that nag up with
    	the vac in about 10 - 15 minutes and give quick brushing and
    	then I can saddle up and go.  His coat is very silky and the
    	hose I use has rubber teeth so it does give a good rubbing
    	action and is not uncomfortable for my nag.
    
    	I don't think that all the brushing in the world could get the
    	nag as clean as they are after one of my "sessions" (unless
    	of course you do give lots of baths).
    
    	It is VERY IMPORTANT to me that my nag is VERY CLEAN when I
    	start out - there are some days I may be in the saddle for 
    	8 - 9 hours and I can't afford to sore him because of dirt.
    
    	BATHS - I may bath this nag maybe once a year - but in very
    	hot weather only.  He has a very healthy coat and when using
    	the vac comes out very WHITE.  Of course, the occational stain
    	may happen (but spit works great!).
    
    	HAPPY TRAILS
    	

    I also have problem with my palomino, he like dirt like you would't
    belive. Ok now here come the question:
    
    1- What type of vaccum cleaner do you use(small portable)?
    
    2- How about noise?
    
    3- Does suction scare the horse?
    
    rene
    

    	Well, shall we say I "got sucked in" to buying one of those Porta-
    	Vacc types for equine cridders.  I was VERY UNHAPPY about the
    	lack of suction that they have.  Sure, they do have a built
    	in brush that does a SUPER job of pulling all yer mane hairs
    	out if you are foolish enough to go within 10 feet of it.  (My
    	poor nag thought that his face was going next!!)  Anyone interested
    	in a $90.00 mane thinner??
    
    	So.............
    
    	I went back to my cheapy GE Porta-Vacc that has the all the
    	attachments (hoses, snorkle, furniture brush and small) and very
    	important - a re-useble dust bag.  (You don't want to get into
    	a Vacc with disposable bags.)  The furniture brush is what I
    	use - it has rubber teeth on it and you can rub it every-which
    	way and not hurt your nag. 
                                                              
    	The noise doesn't bother them much as they were already used
    	to clippers.  The way I got them used to it was: I ran it about
    	10 feet away from them a few times when I was clipping.  Then
    	another time I got them used to just the brush and hose.  I
    	ran this all over them till they didn't mind it.  Then when
    	I did have the Vacc all attached I dragged this all around -
    	off at first then on.  Then finally, I rubbed their shoulder
    	with it off then on.  They were alarmed, but accepted it when
    	I started rubbing - they both like it now and my Appy streaches
    	his neck so I don't miss a favorite spot.
    
    	Any other questions.....  JUS HOLLER.
    
    	HAPPY TRAILS
    
    	Susan

    The simplest way of keeping a grey horse clean is to ignore that
    for most of the time he'll not be (clean that is). I have a large
    (Percheron) grey (brown right now) horse that no matter how clean
    he is one day, will revert to his natural grubbiness on the next.
    He has defeated a Shop-Vac Industrial Vacuum cleaner - it clogged
    up on three weeks worth of hair and mud after I was away on a trip.
    A point to remember that excessive washing of a horse can cause
    skin problems since their natural condition is to be a bit grubby.
    
    A vacuum cleaner does help, so does a wash stall, so does corn starch
    and Ivory Liquid. However your horse will win in the end, so only
    put the effort into cleaning him when he's going to be on public
    display.
    

     		*********YES IT IS SIMPLE********
    
    I HAVE A PALAMINO MARE. THREE WHITE SOCKS AND A PURE WHITE MANE.
    AND THE TAIL DRAGS 4 INCHES ON THE GROUND. MY HORSE HAS HER SHOW
    COAT AND IS ALWAYS CLEAN, ---THANK-YOU---. WE WORK OUR HORSES OUT
    TO A SOLID SWEAT EVERYDAY, COOL THEM OUT AND HOSE THEM DOWN WITH
    A GARDEN SPRAYER TO REMOVE DIRT AND SWEAT. THE LEGS ARE CLIPPED
    ALL THE WAY UP TO THE KNEE, SO THE WATER RINSES THEM CLEAN. SHOW
    SHEEN IS THEN APPLIED. THE TAIL IS ALWAYS BRAIDED. DIVIDE INTO 3
    SECTIONS, AND BRAID BALING TWINE INTO TAIL, TIE OF THE END, DOUBLE
    IT BACK UP TO THE TOP AND TIE SECURE. IF YOU REALLY WANT TO KEEP
    IT CLEAN, AND DONT WANT TO BOTHER WITH THE TAIL EVERYDAY YOU CAN
    BRAID IT THE SAME WAY, WRAP IN WHITE SERILE GAUZE (ROLL) AND COVER
    WITH DUCT TAPE. THE TAIL LOOKS LIKE AT BROOM HANDLE BUT IT WORKS.
    AND ALWAYS REMEMBER WHEN BRAIDING OR WRAPING WITH DUCT TAPE ALWAYS
    (ALWAYS) DO IT BELOW THE TAIL BONE! SO YOU DONT CUT OFF THE CIRCULATION
    OR YOU WONT HAVE A TAIL TO WRAP! I ALSO USE AFTER EVERY WORKOUT
    OVER THE COUNTER HAIR CONDITIONER FOR PEOPLES HAIR, THE KIND YOU
    USE WHEN YOUR HAIR IS DRY. I USE THE KIND FOR BLACK PEOPLES HAIR
    AND THE COAT THIS YEAR IS LET A MIRROR IT IS SO SHINY. AND BEFORE
    WE RIDE THE HORSE IS BRUSHED TO GET THE HEAVY DIRT OUT THEN WE VACUUM
    OUR HORSES. (I HAVE RUINED MANY A VACUUM MOTORS AND CLIPPER BLADES,
    THAT WAY)
    

    I used to work for Lendon Gray who is an international dressage
    rider.  I was the groom for her horse "Seldom Seen" who is a very
    very white horse - by this I mean that there could not be a speck
    of dirt or stain on him because he was constantly being shown. 
    The horse was also turned out nearly every day though, so he could
    get really dirty.
    
    The way that I found was best to keep him clean and shiny was a
    really good, STRONG brushing - apply the muscles! - and then take
    several clean white towels and rub with these until they came out
    clean.  It takes a lot of time and muscle power, but it is worth
    it in the end because nothing will make a horse shine more.  Also,
    stay away from the baths, especially with soap, unless absolutely
    necessary, because they will dull the coat.  Vacuums are good if
    the horse is REALLY dirty, but I never had a whole lot of luck with
    them.  For the tail though, the only thing that really works is
    lots of soap and water.
    
    Also, if you do find it necessary to give baths, or even if you
    just want a shinier, healthier coat, wheat germ oil added to the
    feed will do wonders!
    
    Good luck!
    

    
    I own a double registered Pinto and Paint gelding.  He gets shown
    at Pinto, Paint and Hunter shows and needs to be very clean.  His
    markings leave him with 70% white (which is pink skined underneath
    unlike a grey horse that has black skin).  The pink skin is more
    sensative then black so I need to be careful.
    
    I can say that everything I've seen written here is true.  I let
    my horse stay "dirty" until the shows.  The "dirty" protects him
    from the sun, and the build up of bug spray is the only way to
    combat insects.  He's not really dirty just not show clean.
    
    I use a curry, hard brush and soft brush every day and the 
    vaccum a couple times a week (I have a Farnham canister horse
    vac that works great).  I sponge off the sweat after riding
    but only bath for shows, which amounts to about every other
    weekend.
    
    On soaps - You do need to be careful with it.  I use an AMWAY
    product called L.O.C. (Liquid Organic Cleaner).  It's great
    stuff and won't hurt your horse if you don't get it all rinsed
    out.  I know a DEC person who can get it.  Some times it's necessary
    to use strong stuff.  ORVUS has cautions on it about being an
    industrial cleaner,  but most Pinto people use it.  I have not
    had any problems using it myself, but I'm careful to rinse it 
    out completely and I don't use it all the time.
    
    For every day stains, a catus cloth works quite well.  I got mine
    years back at a tack shop.
    
    I only use show sheen for showing (my horse is a halter animal),
    it makes him slippery which might be great for stains, but the
    tack slips too.  I prefer to let the poor beast be a natural as
    possible, and coating the hair with laquer just doesn't seem right
    to me.
    
    Horses have been around for a long time without our messing up their
    natural defenses against the environment.  I try to interfer as
    little as possible, and recommend the same to others.
    
    Good luck!
    Danielle
      

I heard this one recently (it may already be on everyone's list, because
I'm one of those who is usually way behind on all of this!) - Wash mane
and tail in "Snuggle" fabric softener. They come out soft, silky and
REALLY full. I haven't tried it, though, so I can't vouch for it. 

-julie

    
    To make a white hoof really shine, use WISK and a pot cleaning pad.
    Go carefully, you don't want to take the outer protect coating of
    the hoof off, just the dirt.  Then use clear SHOE WAX.  The wax
    helps protect the hoof and in itself makes the hoof shine.  You
    can use the commercial hoof polishes of your prefered color on
    top of the wax.  You will find the polish easier to remove because
    the wax is underneath.
    
    This is terriffic for the striped feet, that technically should
    be painted only with clear polish. 

There have been books written about this but I'll try to keep it 
as brief as possible while still explaining why we do each item.  
Please bear in mind that we only show `Class A' Breed shows and 
have to generally do more than for the Open Show circuit.  It 
sure was more fun when we did show open.  You may not see much of 
this at open shows but if you do, it'll be tough to beat the same 
quality of horse.

BODY CLIPPING - This is an absolute must in Arab Halter classes.  
I never did this at open shows and never lost because of it but 
things may have changed since then.  Grey horses can be done the 
day before the class but chestnuts and bays should be done at 
least three weeks before the class with at least 1/2 hour of soft 
brushing each day to bring the coat lustre back.  Use a number 10 
blade against the direction of the coat.  If you decide to do 
this you should find someone who will let you watch first.  If 
you have an Arab with a very flat croup and high tail set you 
should feather back to the long hairs on the dock.  Otherwise 
make a triangle from the dock pointing to the head about three or 
four inches long.  This gives the impression of continuity (it 
looks flatter).

MANE AND FORELOCK - If it is bushy it must be pulled from 
underneath.  Don't be afraid to take too much since light, long 
and wispy is in.

EARS - The ears must be clipped for any show.  You should at 
least use an ear blade or a number 10.  I usually use a `000' 
surgical blade.  Shape the hair at the top of the ear into a 
point.  The more it looks like an elf's ear the better.

MANE - Arabs should have long necks, therefore you need to judge 
how far back to cut the bridle path by the neck that you are 
working with.  For short necks you cut more but no more than 
about a third back.  For longer necks cut less but at least a 
quarter back.  Make a slanted cut on the side that the mane falls 
to so the hair will lay down with a waterfall effect.  Normally 
the mane falls to the `off side'.

CHESTNUTS and ERGOTS - Keep vasoline on them to make them soft 
and pliant.  Remove any excess material the day of the class.

FEET - This is probably the most controversial area after 
clipping.  I like natural colors and use a clear hoof polish 
except on black feet where I use black.  Using clear however, 
means really clean feet (here's where the controversy comes 
from) which means sanding or in extreme cases filing hooves.  If 
you do this you have taken the protective surface away from the 
hoof.  This stuff is impossible to reproduce since it lets air in 
but still maintains the moisture content of the feet.  That means 
you will have to treat the hoof after you sand it until this 
surface is repaired.  The best policy is to sand only when you 
have to and as little as possible.

CLEANING - I use Woolite for all my fine washables; including my 
horses.  When you stop laughing, here are my reasons.  It works 
well with cold water, it doesn't film, it doesn't remove the oil 
from the coat, and best of all it costs much less than so called 
equine shampoos.  Usually about three bathings are sufficient for 
even the dirtiest horse.  After the last we use 'Show Sheen' 
after the rinse, use lots of it.  In the first two washes you 
should use a cream rinse for the mane and tail (the same stuff 
you would use on yourself).  

OILING - You have to play this one by ear because it depends on 
the horse as to what you use and how you use it but generally you 
should use a highlighter specifically made for this purpose.  
I've tried baby oil and vasoline and all the home brews but they 
all collect dust and make oily mud by the time you hit the ring.  
Whatever you get, it should not have an artificial color in it 
because it is illegal (AHSA rules).  It is however, fairly common 
practice to cover small blemishes with black but its still 
illegal.  You can highlight areas of the horse that you want to 
stand out also.  For example, if you horse has a long hip, get it 
to shine, but if its short, don't draw attention to it.  Same 
goes for the Shoulder, withers, poll, and etc.

In the end you have to use what is successfull for you but don't 
forget that the most important part of showing in halter classes 
is conformation and conditioning.

    Have you ever used oil/water sprayed on a haircoat after a bath?
     My trainer uses Alpha Keri oil/water after bathing horses after
    a workout.  I've never seen him use it on the showgrounds, however.
     He uses it to put moisture back into the coat.
    
    There is an Ultra product that is supposed to do something similar
    after body clipping.  Incidentally, Ultra Finishing Spray is probably
    the best highlighter I've ever seen.  It makes bays glitter in bright
    sun and silver/greys radiate under evening lights!

    
    I would sure like some black highlights (not for showing Arabs,
    however--its illegal).  
    
    You kind of have to wipe it on, leave it for a while, then wipe
    it off (or you'll look like Al Jolson).
    
    Mary JO
    

    Ultra finishing spray is used just before we take a horse into the
    ring.  You spray it on, lifting the hairs of the mane and tail.
     Do not brush, but wipe with your hand in the direction the hair
    grows.  We use it on top of Show Sheen, which we apply to a wet
    or damp haircoat (after a bath) and rub in with hands.  There is
    no comparison:  Ultra wins "hands down" -- pardon the pun.
    
    Instead of the black gunk (I have a Scott Trees pic of my mare with
    that stuff on her eyes -- it's awful, really looks fake!), use Afro
    Sheen in the green jar.  It's clear, spreads better than Vaseline
    and smells better.  It allows the darker skin to shine through,
    making eyes appear larger, without the obvious coloring that the
    other stuff imparts.

    re: .8
    The wife & I have used a lot of the Ultra brand products & seem
    to be pleased with it. Some of our fellow Arab owners have used
    hair rinse conditioner(some human type, etc.) after washing to help
    in softening & luster. There are a lot of different products & com-
    pinations that can be obtained & used for the desired result.
      Hope everybody enjoys & has fun in showing your horse(s) this
    season. 8^)
                           Steve-with-the-itch-to-show
    

    A trainer friend used Vaseline hair tonic on the manes of his show
    string at a show this past weekend.  The tonic made the hair lie
    down, yet look soft and not at all sticky.  Best of all, since it
    was 95 degrees, the stuff did not run or attract dust.
    
    I got my first order of Skin-So-Soft to try on the horses as a hair
    polish/insect repellent.  Heard Pres. Carter used to take it along
    by the case whenever he went fishing!!  For horses, though, you're
    supposed to mix it one part SSS to 5 parts water and spritz it on
    the coat, brush it in.  It's from Avon.
    
    Merrie
    

    I just read an interesting item about 1 pound of carrots having
    more calcium and phrospherous than 2 pounds of timothy hay; and
    that feeding 1 to 2 pounds of carrots daily will increase growth,
    increase fertility and put a bloom on the coat.  I started feeding
    my 4 year old gelding 1 pound of carrots daily now for the past
    3 weeks, although I don't expect any growth, or fertility increase,
    his coat is in the most unbelievable show condition.  He does get
    a squeeze of corn oil in his feed at night, and a bit of apple cider
    vinegar so his coat was shiny, but since the carrots, there is a
    greater depth to the color, and he's turning grey, so imagine if
    he was still a solid dark bay what he would look like?  People in
    the barn have asked me what new product I have found, and all it
    is is carrots! - and a lot of brushing.
    
    stephanie
    who-likes-to-find-good-old-natural-inexpensive-alturnatives-to
    chemicals

    This note looked like the best place for this question.
    
    Does anyone have any ideas for removing pine pitch from a horse
    without damaging the horse? I have a friend whos boarding stable
    has pine trees in the turnout area and her horse has been rubbing
    the winter hair off on them. She now has to figure out how to get
    it off so she can show halter class. 
    
    Thanks for anything you can think of,
    
    Sandy
    

    Try rubbing alcohol.  My fence installer told me that he discovered
    it by accident and that it does a great job removing pine pitch
    from his hands; it should work equally well on your horse.
    
    Good luck,
    
    John Wood
    

    
    Try rubbing some furacin wound ointment on the pine pitch. I used to
    have my horses in a field full of pine trees, don't know which had more
    pitch on them, the trees or the horses. I used furacin every time,
    worked like a charm. Just let it set for a few hours or so then wash it
    off.
    
    Marianne
    

    
    	This is great!! I know about this! I have my horses turned
    	out where there are pines, and...the magic cleanser is:
    
    		PEANUT BUTTER!!!!
    
    	Yes, it's true.
    
    	Julie

    
       Baby oil works good for us...
    

    Are you referring to what grows from the back/underside of the fetlock?
    If so, I put a little vasciline on them and the chestnuts to soften
    them up before pulling them off.  
    

single edge razors are also wonderful chestnut and ergot trimming instruments...
(of course, it's better if you have a quiet horse ;^))

    Be careful...they can bleed.  A friend of mine had that happen and it
    took her a long time to get it stopped.  Don't know how much a horse
    can lose but to her it was a great deal.
    
    

    A small amount of V.05 hair conditioner in the mane and tail are
    great for keeping the hair in flexable condition.  Use the V.05
    made for people with grey or blonde hair for those manes and tails
    that are white.  With a small amount smeared on my hands that is
    left, I run all over his coat.  I found that the V.05 helps to keep
    his silvery tail silver and not yellow.  A small amount of show
    sheen, while not healthy sounding, does make the dirt wipe right
    off.  I hose down after every ride to get rid of sweat and dirt
    too.  Clipping his legs keeps them cleaner.  Getting ready for shows
    is alot easier since I started this routine.  It still comes down
    to a good deal of brushing daily to keep the coat in condition.
    A good rubber backed wire and bristle dog brush, believe it or not
    is a great brush.  The wire, used lightly, makes a nice scratchy
    massage that really stirs up the dust.  Turn over the brush and
    brush it with the soft bristles.  It's great for brushing the tail
    because it cleans the scurf off of the tail bone without pulling
    out the hair.  My horse does not scratch his tail anymore!

    A friend of mine with a palamino swears by Timotei (sp!) shampoo,
    brings the mane and tail up beautifully white, shiney and silky!
    
    Barbara