| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 3124.1 | Let the pin take the force, not the bike | HERON::codger.vbo.dec.com::HEMMINGS | Lanterne Rouge | Mon Jul 22 1996 03:42 | 12 |
| Put some releasing fluid on it and leave it for few days, then put a support
underneath the crank and hit against that rather than letting the frame
and the bracket bearings take the force! Some shops have a sort of hand
press-thing which allows you to press the pin out - ask around.
The cotter pin is a sound engineering fixture if it is correctly fitted, there
are still hundreds of bread-and-butter bikes around especially in the UK, I'm
sure you can get replacements.
The next lesson will be "how to fit a new cotter pin correctly".
;>)
|
| 3124.2 | | QUAKKS::BURTON | Jim Burton, DTN 381-0272 | Mon Jul 22 1996 08:31 | 7 |
| >>The next lesson will be "how to fit a new cotter pin correctly".
Thanks for the removal info. I believe I'm ready for the above course. Should
I coat it with antisieze compound to make it easier for my grandkids to take
it apart 30 years from now?
Jim
|
| 3124.3 | | STOWOA::SWFULLER | | Mon Jul 22 1996 09:55 | 8 |
| I used to work on Peugeot's of that era, the cotterpin removal was
extremely difficult. I believe they pressed them in in conjunction
with heat, as no other company's cotterpins came out so hard. We ended
up drilling out a number of them. There were cotterpin removal tools,
someone, somewhere may still have one around.
Good luck...you may need it
steve
|
| 3124.6 | When I were a lad | ROCKS::ROBINSON | Seasonally adjusted | Tue Jul 23 1996 09:56 | 12 |
| I was surprised to hear that you've had so much trouble extracting
cotters. I must have removed hundreds of these in the past although
very few would have been severely rusted. The support method I used was
an oak block just thinner than the bottom bracket height with a large
(metal) nut about an inch deep on top of it. The cotter pin would sit
in the nut which provided a firm support surface for the crank to rest
on. A good weighty engineer's hammer did the removal, usually in one
blow.
I've still got a few cotter pins in my spares box. Should I get them
insured?
Chris
|
| 3124.7 | | QUAKKS::BURTON | Jim Burton, DTN 381-0272 | Tue Jul 23 1996 10:19 | 5 |
| I have removed many crank cotters in my lifetime with no trouble, most of them
on English bikes (Raleighs). This Peugeot is really tough and it's not even
rusty.
Jim
|
| 3124.8 | Cyclo double-ended | HERON::codger.vbo.dec.com::HEMMINGS | Lanterne Rouge | Tue Jul 23 1996 11:28 | 6 |
| FWIW, Cyclo used to do a double ended cotter pin, you just undid one end and
then screwed up the other which extracted it. Quite neat, but it must be 20
years since I last saw one ....
As for fitting them properly it has to do with a file, a vice and some
engineer's blue. (Not to mention a fair bit of patience).
|
| 3124.9 | | STOWOA::SWFULLER | | Tue Jul 23 1996 14:58 | 4 |
| I have removed many hundred cotterpins. I suspect Peugeot put them in
with heat or some other way to forge them in tighter.
steve
|
| 3124.10 | going well | QUAKKS::BURTON | Jim Burton, DTN 381-0272 | Tue Jul 30 1996 08:56 | 17 |
| Well, I got the crank cotters removed. Actually, one of the guys at Tony's did
it for me. The bike has been stripped of all its components and each component
has been degreased, cleaned, stripped of it's rust, and refinished. This
includes every single nut, bolt and washer. The chrome pieces were scrubbed
with SOS soap pads and then coated with a clear sealant. All bearings have
been repacked. The frame has been cleaned and waxed two times. I even located
a set of brand new 1960's vintage Mafac Competition brakes at a shop in
Needham, MA and they look super on the bike. It's now 80% reassembled and
looks like a brand new bike.
The only thing that needs to be done now is to restore and respoke the wheels,
restore the shifters, and find a new set of upright handlebars and brake levers.
My wife, in her infinite 12 year old wisdom, had the bars switched to "racing
handlebars" because that's what everyone wanted in 1968. Does anyone have some
upright bars, brake levers, and handlebar grips they want to sell?
Jim
|
| 3124.11 | project complete | QUAKKS::BURTON | Jim Burton, DTN 381-0272 | Wed Aug 21 1996 16:53 | 11 |
| I found all the parts I needed and completed the restoration this past weekend.
The bike really looks like a new bike and my wife enjoys riding it around the
neighborhood. It weighs in at a hefty 36 pounds, so I don't imagine she'll be
using it instead of her road bike for long trips.
If anyone's interested in seeing it, drop me a note and I can bring it to ZKO.
It will also be on the WWW in a week or so at:
http://www.iea.com/~pixelboy/bikes/gallery.htm
Jim
|
| 3124.12 | Use a cotter pin press next time | NWD002::BINGHAM_JO | | Fri Aug 23 1996 19:25 | 3 |
| To help you the 'next' time you have to remove the cotters, there is a
cotter pin press tool. I have not seen one in a while. They cost about $46
a few years ago.
|
| 3124.13 | | QUAKKS::BURTON | Jim Burton, DTN 381-0272 | Wed Sep 11 1996 11:20 | 5 |
| The picture of this 1968 Peugeot is now on the Web at URL:
http://www.poweramp.net/~pixelboy/bikes/gallery.html
Jim
|