T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
---|
3107.1 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Thu Jun 20 1996 07:30 | 10 |
| You can try a little lithium grease, but if they are the handle bars
this is a tough one to cure. Creaking in bars is more prevelent in
the "light" weight bars.
I've been running Scott LFs on my road bike and they've creaked from
day one. I treat them from time to time and it goes away for a awhile,
but always comes back. Very annoying.
Chip
|
3107.2 | Same problem - other end! | IRNBRU::NIVEN | | Thu Jun 20 1996 12:09 | 5 |
| I have a Kona Fire Mountain MTB and my saddle creaks!. I took the seatpost appart
and cleaned and greased it. This stopped it for a while but its come back again.
Does Aluminium itself creak?
John
|
3107.3 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Thu Jun 20 1996 12:26 | 1 |
| Yup, aluminum does and Ti can be bad too...
|
3107.4 | Handlebars - Fragile, Handle with care | REQUE::MCGOWAN | | Thu Jun 20 1996 13:11 | 9 |
|
You may have some oxidation build up on the inside of the stem clamp or
the outside of the bar. If you do, clean if off (I found Soft Scrub
works well and rinses of easily). Greasing the bar will mean you need to
over-tighten the stems clamp on the handlebar. Most stem and handlebar
manufacturers warn against this since this will weaken the handlebar (this
is where most handlebars will snap). Instead use a reasonable torque and
a few drops of Loctite.
|
3107.5 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Thu Jun 20 1996 14:26 | 8 |
| -1 sorry, you don't have to over-tighten the bars when using
lithium. i would suspect this would be the reaction of
folks doing this for the first time.
there is even less a reason to "over-tighten" with
mountain bike bars.
Chip
|
3107.6 | Try both, use what works for you | REQUE::MCGOWAN | | Thu Jun 20 1996 14:43 | 9 |
|
Relax Chip, I didn't intend to belittle your suggestion. I would have
said Lithium if that had been the case. Most greases will lead to over
tightening the stem clamp (not Lithium, ok Chip?). I was just
repeating the recommendations of Bontrager/Titec, Synchros, and 3ttt,
to use proper tightening and a few drops of Loctite. I'm sure other
manufacturers have similar recommendations, I just haven't read their
recommendations. Maybe some of them recommend Lithium grease aswell.
|
3107.7 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Thu Jun 20 1996 14:50 | 11 |
| -1 i'm very cool, thanks. i would agree with you that people who
have not experienced this before would have a tendency to
over-tighten. it's human nature.
i wonder how Lock-Tite would perform given the dynamics of
the flexing. Would be an interesting experiment.
I would not use use industrial grease or heavy oils for this
application (for sure).
Chip
|
3107.8 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Thu Jun 20 1996 14:51 | 5 |
| BTW, the head mechanic at Gamamche's (Scott Kinsman) uses lithium.
Of course, this could easily turn into a preferential thing...
Chip
|
3107.9 | Reckon you're pretty cool, eh? | REQUE::MCGOWAN | | Thu Jun 20 1996 15:32 | 7 |
|
I don't particularly care how cool you are, thanks. 8^)
Obviously some of the Loctite adhesives wouldn't work
too well in this application, I don't recall the number
on the bottle, I'll check and post it to this note.
|
3107.10 | but whYYYY (in my be 2 year old voice) | EDSCLU::NICHOLS | | Fri Jun 21 1996 10:53 | 24 |
|
All of these suggestions seem to be fixing the symptom, and are not
explaining the problem - to wit, why does my bar creak? My chemistry
and mechanical engineering is quite suspect, but heres my guesses as to
why a bar/stem combo would creak:
On each pedal stroke, the opposite hand is pulling up on the bar causing it
to move from straight towards an arc. Since the bar is trying to arch, it
could be moving inside the stem just a touch (but apparently enough to creak.)
If I had to, I would say the attempted arc pulls the bars left and right.
(Heres the 2 guessing parts)
1 - The al and c/mb/?? is bonding together (a little) and the force exerted
on the bars during a climb/sprint is enough to break this bond, causing the
creak. This would be analagous to the cups in a BB bonding to the BB shell
unless they are greased/preped. (remedy: see Chip/Gamache suggestion)
2 - The other possibility I thought of is the bars are actually moving inside
the clamp on hard efforts. Loctite (kudos to ?brian?) would keep the bar from
'slipping' l/r (or g/d for our French brethren.)
.00002
--roger
|
3107.11 | Brians not coming out today, so go away! | REQUE::MCGOWAN | | Fri Jun 21 1996 12:15 | 5 |
|
Brian? What the...? ;^)
Peter
|
3107.12 | Creaking door | REQUE::MCGOWAN | | Fri Jun 21 1996 12:34 | 21 |
|
Remember when you were a kid sneaking into or out of a room? You learned
to move the door really fast to avoid the cluck, cluck, cluck you got if
you moved the door really slowly. The faster you moved the door, the
closer the clucks got together until they became a crreeeaaak, and
if you moved it really fast the noise didn't appear.
Anyways, a new hinge won't make that cluck noise. Why? Because the
cluck noise is caused by the worn off metal at the contact points of
the hinge. New hinges will glide along each other, the deposits which
build up cause this glide to stutter with the cluck noise. Some
manufacturers tried putting plastic washers between the hinge contact
points and this helped a little, until enough metal rubbed off onto the
plastic that you had the same problem again! The only real solution was
to grease the hinge, i.e. Chips solution. Cleaning the crud off and
using Loctite just didn't cut it.
Of course, the latter approach will work best if used on a new stem
and handlebar since it will stop the initial wear from occuring, and
thus the creaking noise.
|
3107.13 | screaming person in my shoe | POLAR::WILSONC | strive to look better naked | Sun Jun 23 1996 03:47 | 3 |
| one of my shoes is creaking!!!!! the clipless type, any suggestions. it
really puts a damper on those warm, starry, QUIET, midnight rides I am
so fond of.
|
3107.14 | | ROWLET::AINSLEY | DCU Board of Directors Candidate | Mon Jun 24 1996 10:02 | 5 |
| re: .13
Lube your feet? :-)
Bob
|
3107.15 | | COOKIE::MUNNS | dave | Mon Jun 24 1996 12:07 | 2 |
| Solve all those annoying creaking problems -- wear ear plugs. You won't
even hear your bones creak anymore.
|
3107.16 | | UHUH::LUCIA | http://asaab.zko.dec.com/~lucia/biography.html | Mon Jun 24 1996 15:03 | 8 |
| re: lube your feet:
Don't laugh, just do it. I bet you have look pedals? Look pedals are famous
for the squeak, especially when they are wet. Rub bees wax on the pedal surface
where it contacts the clip. Or, you can use WD40, but it's too slipery for the
first 20 miles or so.
Tim
|
3107.17 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Mon Jul 01 1996 09:18 | 10 |
| -1 Boy are you right about LOOKS. I still have my pedals and
cleats and old shoes ready to go if I ever feel like being
aggravated :-)...
Me? I used to spray them with Pledge (cleats) furniture
polish once a week.
No need to buff :-).
Chip
|
3107.18 | White Grease worked for me. | DECC::SULLIVAN | Jeff Sullivan | Mon Jul 01 1996 18:59 | 10 |
| I was the one who started this thread and here's what worked for me....
I loosened the handlebars, sprayed on some white grease and worked it in.
Re-tightened the handlebars and the creaks seem to be gone. We'll see how long
it lasts...
Thanks for the suggestion(s).
-Jeff
|
3107.19 | a little here a little there | POLAR::WILSONC | strive to look better naked | Sat Jul 06 1996 22:30 | 2 |
| The bees wax worked! Thanks.
|