Conference noted::bicycle

RE: <<< Note 2900.0 by STOWOA::SWFULLER >>>

Here's how I handle it on-road (for what it's worth): If it will take me longer
than � second or less to cross (maybe 10 or 15 feet while cruising, shorter
when going slowly), I avoid it, or walk it. If it's relatively short, then I
ride over it and try to be a smooth and constant in motion as possible. This
means stopping pedalling and straightening out my path. If it's on a curve,
I'll go straight while over the ice and resume the curve afterwards. I went
over a few sections today during lunch in this manner.
						-- Tom

    Great brakes help; i.e. stopping before you get to it.  Although
    it's hard to see, I stood my bike on its nose today a couple of
    times at lunch just before reaching patches.  This a mtn bike with
    Shimano M1 pads.  If I missed seeing the ice, I basically follow
    the same algorithm as .1.  I usually double check the road ahead
    for ice if I hear a car coming up from behind; the last thing you
    want is to lose it just as a car goes by.
    
    A mtn bike with small frame helps too, only because they're a lot
    easier to "lay down" gracefully.  With a little practice, the bike
    squirts out, but you stay on your feet.  For these and some other
    reasons, I've basically given up riding my road bike in winter.
    Kratz

   One thing I do is stick to roads I know very well at this time of
   year - I know where the runoff tends to accumulate puddles and
   plan in advance to not be going fast when approaching those spots.
   (for example, on the eastbound side of RT-117 across from Eriksons
   Ice Cream here in Maynard - I know it's going to be a mess there.)

   If it's a small patch like .1 mentions, you can cruise straight
   over them.

   Something to really watch for is getting back later than you plan - as the
   sun sets, otherwise wet road surface will become very slick!  I've
   actually finished the last mile by walking a few times because of this.
   And once had to pick my bike up and run for it as an oncoming
   car lost control and did a 360 degree spin into the woods near me -
   the trees saved me :-)

   - Jim

      I tried "Pit Bull" tire chains for the first time on my MTB.  After a
    little practice, I was LOOKING for ice to run over!  Not perfect, but
    they work pretty good. 
    
      I am going to stud some tires next, since the chains are a little
    rough if you have to ride a road sections.
    
      I have 2 bikes, so I plan to leave the chains on one bike for riding in 
    snow/ice, and used the studs for ice on my other bike.

    Generally speaking, I handle black ice by holding my breath and saying
    a short impromtu prayer, something like "Dear God" or "Oh, spit".  If
    that doesn't work I fall down.  That always works, although I have set
    a goal to remain upright this year.
    
    Regards studded tires, there's a trick we used to do for driving our
    SAABs out on the ice at high speeds around sharp corners.  Take a worn
    tire, and another worn tire small enough to fit inside the first one.
    Drive roofing nails (they have big heads) through the big tire.  The
    more the merrier.  Beer helps.  Oh, yeah - make the points stick
    through the tread away from the center of the wheel.  This is very
    important.
    
    Put a tube in the small tire, the small tire in the big one, and mount
    the whole shebang on a rim and pump it full of air.  Use wire cutters
    to snip the nail points to a reasonable length.  Otherwise they gouge
    out your fender wells when turning.  Sounds really gawdawful.
    
    I've actually thought about doing this with the MTB.  Maybe a 1.5
    inside a 2.2 or something.  The traction you get with these is
    astounding on a car.  Police can easily follow the torn up pavement to
    your car, so this is not recommended for normal highway driving.  Not
    real smooth, either.
    
    Later,
    	  Mike

    Back when I raced motorcycles in Utah (around '71-72) we would screw short
    sheet metal screws into the knobs of the tires front and back and go
    ride around on the ice in Willard Bay.  I've thought of trying that
    with my bicycle in the past.  But now my condition is such that I'd
    probably do something crazy and end up paying for it in pain for longer
    than I have time for, so I guess I won't try it out.  But I keep
    thinking about it.  

    If someone else is as crazy as I am (and this is the place) let me know 
    that it doesn't work so I won't feel bad every time I look at my bike
    and  the ice on the lake nearby (Lake Massabesic).  At least the lake
    isn't frozen over yet.

    rich

    You're not crazy, Rich. It's common practice (used to be before 
    commercial tires were available) to screw sheet metal screws
    through the knobbies on you MTB. Remember Norm Flye? He always
    made his own "studded" tires and cruised Quabbin regularly
    during the cold months.
    
    Chip

    I have the same problem as the base noter, only I did it Sunday. All
    the careful planning etc. didn't help when I got on it in the middle
    of a field. 
    
    My question is what is the effect of studs or screws when riding over
    nice roots, dirt, rocks and horse &&**. What is the impact of the studs 
    when riding on the none ice parts of the trail.
    
                                    Bill 

    My problem is riding to the trail head, I am sure screws wouldn't last
    very long on the road. 
    
    Hopefully some snow around MA will make this note history.  
    
    steve

    
    Took my first MTB black ice digger on Sunday at Delaney Project in Stow.  
    As said before, it doesn't seem there is too much that can be
    done except to consult with your higher power before landing.  
    
    After watching the skaters for a little while I decided to head out 
    on the pond there.  Once I got away from the skating area (where 
    the slippery skater debris is not present) I really had a blast.  If the 
    tires are dry and the ice is smooth, high speeds can be obtained.
                                              
    The kids where lookin at us like we were crazy....I don't get it.
    I thought riding on ice was a childhood requirement in the northeast?
    Oh well, it's the nineties.  I sure felt like a kid again!!!

I just read an article in one of the MTB mags.   They suggest getting a 
motorcycle like knobby (aka Fisher Fattrax, Specialized Ground control).  
Then you go to a auto parts store and buy a box of automotive studs ($30 
box...should do about 6 tires).  Drill holes in the "outer" nobs just large 
enough that you can squeeze a greased stud into the hole.  Using pliers, 
you can grab the greasy studs and twist them into the knobs (from the 
inside of the tire).   After all the studs have been inserted, line the 
tire with Duct tape.

By inserting studs into the outer knobs only will leave you with a 
relativly smooth  center section of tread to ride on.  When you start to 
slide the side studded knobs will contact the ice and save you.  I haven't 
tried it but is sound better than spending $40 a tire to buy a pre-studded 
tires.

mike

    I saw an ad in MBA - Bike PRO (800/245-3776) for IRC Blizzard snow
    tires - "have steel studs for traction in ice and snow - 26 X 2.0 -
    $34.99."  
    
    I don't have any use for them here in Arizona, but you crazies up north
    might .....

    Boy does winter, or my current riding habits, do havoc on a bike.  
    I rode yesterday at lunch, all primed for a beautiful ride, warm here
    in New England right now, when I realized under all the dirt over the
    last month that, my derailleurs shifted into the "spoke protector
    causing the chain to wrap up, broke one of my control tech bar ends,
    my cannondale front suspension damping doesn't work, bent dropout
    hanger, and a few other odds and ends. 
    
    I am convinced, the current mountain bike technology is FAR from 
    perfect.  Derailleurs on mountain bikes is a silly technology as well
    as the trend towards total weight reduction.  If I can easily break my
    bar end on one good fall, not even super light technology, what about
    all this super light stuff?
    
    Steve 

    well, i don't mean to be insulting, but the conditions now drive
    a lot more maintenance (like daily)...
    
    breaking stuff? hell, sometimes i'm amazed at how easily something
    breaks, and then, i get amazed at how something survived a crash...
    
    weight and durability are, sometimes, mutually exclusive, and sometimes
    not...
    
    Chip

    
    
    	Maintenence IS the key.  With all the crap
    (dirt,mud,twigs,leaves,salt..etc) the bike picks up, it's best to
    give it a rinse after EVERY ride.  I bought my bike well used, and
    have put many HARD off-road miles on it.  The only thing I've replaced
    is the rapid-fire shifters.  If I would have taken the time to clean
    and lube them regularly, I'm sure they would not have failed.
    
    So a squirt or two of your favorite lube (WD40 is quick and
    convienient) before you ride and a quick rinse after should do the
    trick.
    
    As far as the bar-end....must have been one nasty spill
    
    -Chris

    I am like a doctor that smokes, do as I say not as I do.
    With kids, work, and lack of space to work on the equipment, I let it
    slip a bit.  Most everything is fine now, after a 2 hour overhaul...
    except for the suspension which will need a new cartridge and bar-end 
    (under warrantee).
    
    Butt still shows marks however...
    
    Steve

    black ice ? the first time i "handled" black ice was on my tail bone
    it took about 8 months to completely heal. just intime for my second
    experience with black ice. this time i went to physio therapy to help
    accelerate the healling on my thigh/butt. very nice bruise, a trophy
    according to my therapist. life is not perfect and lately ive been
    either walking or travelling very very slow over these areas.