T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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2629.1 | loose crank nut? | DNEAST::FIKE_MIKE | | Wed Aug 04 1993 09:00 | 9 |
|
Most likely is that it's your crank. Try loosening it a hair,
then retightening. It that doesn't work, remove it to check for dirt or
grit between the taper of the spindle and the crank, then replace and
retighten. It takes a significant amount of torque to tighten it up,
but too much can crack the crank. Second choice is your bottom bracket.
Sometimes the adjusting nut loosens; sometimes you need to put some
anti-sieze compound on the BB threads before you install it (especially
if you have dissimilar metals; like a steel BB in an aluminum shell).
|
2629.2 | Check the crank arms. | TOPTEN::PLEVA | Ron, in Princeton NJ | Wed Aug 04 1993 11:35 | 8 |
| Just had my road bike in the shop for a similar noise. They found the
bottom bracket cartridge had come loose.
First thing though is to check that the crank arms themselves are
tight, they have a tendency of working loose or it could be your
pedals.
/ron
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2629.3 | | EST::BOURDESS | | Wed Aug 04 1993 12:53 | 8 |
| I had that problem when I first got my bike. I used to just tighten the
brank nuts and it would stop. it got to a point where this didn't work
however, and after taking it in found that I needed a new B.B. The old
one was just shot after 4 years of abuse. The noise still didn't leave
tho', so I tried tightening the allen bolts connecting the chain rings
to the crank.....this finally worked. Hope this helps.
Mike
|
2629.4 | | EST::BOURDESS | | Wed Aug 04 1993 12:54 | 4 |
| > I had that problem when I first got my bike. I used to just tighten the
> brank nuts and it would stop. it got to a point where this didn't work
I mean "crank" nuts :-)
|
2629.5 | it's not always the B.B. | VNABRW::PELZL | | Thu Aug 05 1993 07:04 | 16 |
| Do you have a "naked" bike or do you have things installed like a
carrier?
In the last weeks we (group of three long distance riders) expirienced
similar problems on two bikes. We also first checked all the normal
stuff you check in such a case like B.B., pedals, chain....
and in both cases we find (after some days) out that the carrier was
the problem ....
With that experience I think that such a nonperiodicaly noise won't
be some of the bearings or chain in most cases. Failures in this area
should produce a regular noice.
So, if you have a carrier installed, I would first stripe down the bike
to a naked one before starting readjusting all bearings and have a look
if it disappears.
servus
Otto
|
2629.6 | | NOVA::FISHER | US Patent 5225833 | Thu Aug 05 1993 07:21 | 3 |
| what's a carrier?
ed
|
2629.7 | Dictonaries... | VNABRW::PELZL | | Thu Aug 05 1993 08:06 | 6 |
| Dictonaries....
It's the thing mounted over the backwheel where you can fix some
smaller baggege on it...
otto
|
2629.8 | | NOVA::FISHER | US Patent 5225833 | Thu Aug 05 1993 08:43 | 3 |
| oh, a rack! I should have known, I suppose.
ed
|
2629.9 | :-) | ROWLET::AINSLEY | Less than 150 kts. is TOO slow! | Thu Aug 05 1993 12:15 | 5 |
| Isn't it one of those little grey and white dogs that chase bikes??
Oh, you said 'Carrier'...Never mind
Bob
|
2629.10 | Different kind of ticking noise. | NETCAD::FORSBERG | NIPG, Hub Products Group | Wed Jun 21 1995 11:59 | 11 |
| As of this morning, my bike's making a periodic ticking sound. It
happens whether I'm pedaling or coasting and is once per wheel
revolution.
When I put more weight on the handlebars, it gets quieter. I suspect
that this means it's originating in the rear wheel.
Loose spoke? or what else should I check?
Thanks.
Erik
|
2629.11 | | SMURF::LARRY | | Wed Jun 21 1995 15:02 | 16 |
| could be spoke flex in the rear wheel where the spokes intersect. Not
sure what the "right" fix is but once the guilty spokes have been
identified I found putting a dab of grease at the intersection got rid
of the noise. Could be that the spokes are a little loose or maybe to
worn and need replacement (I never replaced them for that reason though).
I also had a much stranger instance of the tick noise. Turned out that
the guilty intersection was at the rim where the spoke screws in. My
biking friend clued me into this as a possibility as I tried lots of
other things without success. He was right. A dab of oil in the
spoke hole around the spoke and no noise.
Good luck,
Larry
|
2629.12 | cyclometer | SMAUG::NICHOLS | | Fri Jun 23 1995 08:02 | 5 |
| heres another 'once per revolution' potential culprit:
the sensor and magnet for your -i assume you have one- cyclometer are hitting
a second related item is one spoke loose enough to hit sensor each time by
--roger
|
2629.13 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Fri Jun 23 1995 08:57 | 3 |
| do have a freewheel or a cassette?
Chip
|
2629.14 | I've heard of cassettes... | NETCAD::FORSBERG | NIPG, Hub Products Group | Fri Jun 23 1995 14:08 | 19 |
| re: .13 I'm embarrassed to say that I have absolutely no idea.
The following may be related. On Sunday, I rode about 31 miles. I
fixed a flat on the rear before starting out and, before putting the
rear wheel back on, noticed some side-to-side play in it. The axle
nuts weren't loose but I snugged them up a bit and the looseness went
away. The wheel still spins okay so I don't think I overtightened it.
.13 asking about freewheel/cassette reminded me of this -- any
relevance?
The powertrain is Suntour something-or-other. I bought the bike as
a leftover model two summers ago so let's say that it was made in
1992. It's a Specialized Sirrus. Can anyone tell from this what
sort of rear cogs it has?
Thanks for the help.
Erik
|
2629.15 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Mon Jun 26 1995 07:11 | 9 |
| Axle adjustment wasn't what I was pointing at. When the bearing get dry
you'll get a clicking noise. The source of these noises are really hard
to track down sometimes. The noise travels through the tubes.
I had a dry freewheel problem before (shouldn't get it with a cassette
set-up) and thought it was my bb. I squited some oil into the freewheel
and the noise went away...
Chip
|
2629.16 | hmmm... | SMAUG::NICHOLS | | Mon Jun 26 1995 10:16 | 12 |
| i doubt the noise is in the free wheel/cassette
since e notices it pedaling, the free wheel is engaged, ie not moving, probably
not the source of noise
we still have not isolated where the noise is originating.......
is it possible to replace one of the wheels and see if the noise goes away
how about if you pick up the bike and spin the wheels independantly
'once per revolution' i am assuming referred to one rev of the wheels, not crank
does the noise happen at all speeds
rough or smooth road, or both
--roger
|
2629.17 | | NOVA::FISHER | now |a|n|a|l|o|g| | Mon Jun 26 1995 10:51 | 8 |
| when the freewheel is engaged, and you get the noise it could still
be the problem because one of the pawls could be unengaged whilst the
others are married.
Another possibility is looseness in the rim joint (rare for this to be
the problem, though)
ed
|
2629.18 | fixed? | SMAUG::NICHOLS | | Tue Jul 18 1995 10:00 | 4 |
| is the ticking noise gone......
what was it?
--roger
|
2629.19 | Oops - sorry. | NETCAD::FORSBERG | NIPG, Hub Products Group | Tue Jul 18 1995 11:28 | 11 |
| I've been off the bike for about two weeks. Since I posted the
original query about this noise, the noise pretty much went away
so I haven't worried about it (-: . When it was happening, it
was definitely once per revolution of the wheel and it happened
while pedaling lightly.
Thanks for the advice .. I will remember this string when (not if)
the noise returns. I'll be riding on Martha's Vineyard all of
next week so it'll probably happen then. :-)
Erik
|
2629.20 | Tick torture rides | COOKIE::MUNNS | dave | Fri Jun 28 1996 17:29 | 35 |
| My road bicycle has caught the dreaded 'tick disease' - ever since it had
an encounter with a Saab. The tick sounds like it is coming from the bottom
bracket or down tube area and it is very annoying. Here are some observations:
o It happens only when I pedal, and quickly fades after a couple of extra
ticks when I stop pedaling
o The ticks go away if I pull or push on the handlebars.
o The ticks are audible in any gear, small or large chainring
o Hitting a bump in the road seems to get the ticking started but it also
starts whenever pedaling reaches 80rpm
o Pedaling backwards does not produce ticks
o Swapping the front wheel with another does not solve the problem
o Cleaning/regreasing the bottom bracket does not solve the problem
o Pushing on the water bottle cage dampens the tick sound somewhat (cage
is on tight, no loose screws)
o The headset is tight with no play
o The tick does not have a definite pattern
o The front forks (the left fork struck the Saab) appear not bent
(riding no-hands is stable)
My hypothesis is that something is vibrating somewhere in the frame and
a resonance amplifies the sound.
Any other suggestions ? I am letting a 2nd bike shop look at this next
week.
|
2629.21 | | PCBUOA::KRATZ | | Fri Jun 28 1996 17:52 | 7 |
| Kinda sounds like one of my aluminum Trek 1200's with a very old
(and flexible) frame. It gives a tick (hell, a crescendo of groans)
as the BB is moved from one side to the other. If I stop pedaling
(or pedal very lightly), it stops tho; doesn't fade.
Does this happen to be a very hi mileage aluminum bike?
Kratz
|
2629.22 | check the joints | FOUNDR::WOODRUFF | | Fri Jun 28 1996 18:44 | 6 |
|
check the frame very carefully for a cracked weld or joint. i was
riding with a tandem that had a similar problem, turns out the
frame had cracked near one of the rear drop outs.
garry
|
2629.23 | sounds like a crack | QUAKKS::BURTON | Jim Burton, DTN 381-0272 | Mon Jul 01 1996 08:24 | 6 |
| I would second the idea to check for cracks. You may not be able to visually
see it. What I would suggest is using fluorescent dye penetrant and an
ultraviolet light to make any cracks show up. The only down side is the stuff
is fluorescent yellow. I don't know what is would do with your paint.
Jim
|
2629.24 | | STOWOA::SWFULLER | | Mon Jul 01 1996 09:14 | 5 |
| Are your pedal bearings loose?
Double check the crank arm bolts.
steve
|
2629.25 | | COOKIE::MUNNS | dave | Mon Jul 01 1996 12:19 | 4 |
| The frame is 4130 chromoly and visual inspection shows no cracks. A
bike shop will be looking at it on Wednesday. We will probably rule
out components by swapping parts. I will mention the flourescent dye.
Maybe I should stop by the ER and have the frame X-rayed. ;)
|
2629.26 | | QUAKKS::BURTON | Jim Burton, DTN 381-0272 | Mon Jul 01 1996 13:02 | 13 |
| >> Maybe I should stop by the ER and have the frame X-rayed. ;)
The dye penetrant should pick up a crack better than an x-ray (yes, I saw the
;-) ). X-rays need to be in the right orientation to see the crack. The dye
penetrant is as thin as alcohol so it easily goes into the crack. You wash the
excess off the bike, then let is sit for an hour or two to let the penetrant
come out of the crack and spread. Using a UV light, you get a bright yellow
fluorescent line where the crack is located. We used to use x-ray and dye
penetrant to inspect cast orthopedic implants in one of my previous jobs. The
x-ray gave us a permanent record that the piece was inspected for cracks, but
the dye penetrant did the real work of finding them.
Jim
|
2629.27 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Mon Jul 01 1996 14:10 | 5 |
| there are place where you can have metal parts magna-fluxed (sp?)
which is special type X-Ray specifically designed to detect
fractures/cracks. this is expensive, but not too bad.
Chip
|
2629.28 | the bliss of silence | COOKIE::MUNNS | dave | Mon Jul 08 1996 12:48 | 3 |
| The tick sound has vanished after I pulled off the seat post and shook
the frame upside down. Some of those invisible alpha particles must
have fallen out. ;*)
|