Conference noted::bicycle

I'd imagine you only need to tighten the lock ring which is on the outside 
of the last sprocket.  To do this, you need a hyperglide freewheel remover
(at least that's what I think it's called).  It's a cylinder with 8 flat
sides at one end, and splines which are in the direction of the cylinder's
axis at the other end.  You fit the splined end into the center of the
cassette.  You fit a big adjustable wrench onto the 8-sided end.  Use a 
chain whip to hold the sprockets steady, and tighten the lockring by moving
the wrench counter-clockwise (right?).  You only need to tighten until you
hear it click 4 or 5 times, there's no need to really crank it down. 

Hope this helps,
Sue

BTW: the tool is only a few dollars.... the chain whip is a few more... and 
hopefully you already have the adjustable wrench. 

Oops, I think I got that wrong. Moving the wrench

	Clockwise: tightens the lockring
	Counter-clockwise: loosens the lockring

    and if it's clockwise (tightening) and the cassette is on a wheel
    you don't need a chainwhip.  and there is a special tool but
    a modern shimano freewheel remover which is what Sue described except
    that it has 6 sides will do the trick.  If you have a problem with the
    tool tipping put your QR skewer through it and nearly tighten it
    onto the axle.
    
    ed

I tried removing my hyperglide freewheel for the first time.
I used the correct splined tool (I think).  I inserted the
tool as directed below.  Using a wrench I turned the tool
counter-clockwise .... the whole freewheel spun but did not
loosen.
Am I supposed to grab onto the freewheel with a chain whip
and then turn the freewheel tool counter clockwise?
I did not want to exert a lot of force until I was sure
of the procedure?

The reason I was doing this was to grease the rear hub.
Is there anything I should look out for while doing this?

Thanks,
Larry      

       <<< Note 2423.1 by RUSTIE::NALE "Sue Nale Mildrum" >>>
                      -< tighten the cassette's lockring >-


I'd imagine you only need to tighten the lock ring which is on the outside 
of the last sprocket.  To do this, you need a hyperglide freewheel remover
(at least that's what I think it's called).  It's a cylinder with 8 flat
sides at one end, and splines which are in the direction of the cylinder's
axis at the other end.  You fit the splined end into the center of the
cassette.  You fit a big adjustable wrench onto the 8-sided end.  Use a 
chain whip to hold the sprockets steady, and tighten the lockring by moving
the wrench counter-clockwise (right?).  You only need to tighten until you
hear it click 4 or 5 times, there's no need to really crank it down. 

Hope this helps,
Sue

BTW: the tool is only a few dollars.... the chain whip is a few more... and 
hopefully you already have the adjustable wrench. 

>> cassette.  You fit a big adjustable wrench onto the 8-sided end.  Use a 
>> chain whip to hold the sprockets steady, and tighten the lockring by 
moving

Have you re-read the original note?

I now understand why I could not remove my freewheel with my freewheel tool...
Its because it was not a freewheel, it was a freehub.
Apparently the freehub is sealed and attaches to the wheel with a hex nut.
You do not need to remove the freehub to get at the wheel bearings though.
To get at the wheel bearings all you have to do is remove the nuts
at the end of the axle and remove the axle.
I can now regrease my wheel bearings.  
I hope my sealed freehub does not need to be cleaned and lubed or
replaced because Shimano does not sell freehubs that are not connected
to a wheel?  Is this true?

Larry (who only owned freewheels before this)

RE .-1:
>I hope my sealed freehub does not need to be cleaned and lubed or
>replaced because Shimano does not sell freehubs that are not connected
>to a wheel?  Is this true?

Shimano freehubs fit into a serrated well in the wheel and are are attached 
with an allen-head spindle.  They wear, fail, and have to be replaced; usually 
the ratchet pawls get jammed and the freehub is no longer 'free'. 

I'm always amazed that the relatively puny ratchet system can handle
the stress and torque that it's subjected to.  
    

>Shimano freehubs fit into a serrated well in the wheel and are are attached 
>with an allen-head spindle.  They wear, fail, and have to be replaced; usually 
>the ratchet pawls get jammed and the freehub is no longer 'free'. 

Can you buy a replacement freehub without buying the hub itself?
(Is freehub the correct name for the part that attaches to the hub?)
-Larry
    

re .8

Yes, you can replace just the freehub portion, so you don't have to build a
whole new wheel.  Loose Screws sells replacements.  Replacing the freehub is
also a method of converting a 7 speed wheel to 8 speed (re-dishing required).

Rich

Thanks for the info.   Where is Loose Screws though?
-Larry

    Loose Screws
    12225 Highway 66
    Ashland, OR 97520
    (503) 488-4800
    FAX (503) 482-0080