[Search for users] [Overall Top Noters] [List of all Conferences] [Download this site]

Conference noted::bicycle

Title: Bicycling
Notice:Bicycling for Fun
Moderator:JAMIN::WASSER
Created:Mon Apr 14 1986
Last Modified:Fri Jun 06 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:3214
Total number of notes:31946

1989.0. "freewheel removal? (and cog question)" by MUNICH::URBAN () Sat Jul 06 1991 18:00

    Hi folks,
    
    Can someone explain how my freewheel is mounted on the rear axel? 
    first of all, I've got a bianchi with suntour xc 9000 parts.
    When I take all the cogs off (by unscrewing the littlest cogwheel), I
    see at the end of the cylinder (looking into the end of the freewheel)
    the bearing cone, along with two depressions 180 degrees apart that look
    like they are designed to accept some tool to unscrew the whole assembly?
    Is this correct? 
    
    The reason I'm asking is my freewheel has what seems to be an unusual
    amount of side to side play and I'd like to find out why.
    
    also one other question:  the smallest and second smallest cog have the
    possibility of being mounted at two different positions relative to the
    rest of the cogs.  The positions differ by about 15 degrees and are
    marked "2.1" and "2". What is the difference?
    
    thanks,
    
    -Rob Urban
T.RTitleUserPersonal
Name
DateLines
1989.1freewheel removal instructions...SUSHI::KMACDONALDsushi: not just for breakfast!Mon Jul 08 1991 10:2837
>    Can someone explain how my freewheel is mounted on the rear axel? 

Check out a bike shop, ask them to look at a freewheel and a rear hub. That
should pretty well explain it!

>    When I take all the cogs off (by unscrewing the littlest cogwheel), I
>    see at the end of the cylinder (looking into the end of the freewheel)
>    the bearing cone, along with two depressions 180 degrees apart that look
>    like they are designed to accept some tool to unscrew the whole assembly?
>    Is this correct? 
    
first of all, you don't need to disassemble the freewheel to remove it, it 
doesn't hurt (unless you go past where you are now, then you may be hosed!) but 
it's certainly not necessary / a waste of time.

Anyway, there is a tool with two prongs to fit into those two notches. Other 
brands will have different tools - they aren't generally interchangeable (some 
have a 'star' arrangement, others different diameter, etc.). To use the tool, 
remove the Q.R. skewer and the springs from the skewer. Put the tool on the 
freewheel, engaging the notches, and then put the skewer (minus its springs) 
back on thru the hub and tighten it loosely, so that the skewer holds the tool 
in place, but isn't jamming it on. The tool should have a little play, but not 
be able to disengage. If this isn't clear, ask the guy at the shop to show you 
how it's done. If you don't use the skewer properly (or at all) you WILL break 
the tool, guaranteed. Finally, you need to remove the thing. Grab the flats of 
the tool with a wrench (my fave is a 15" Crescent wrench) or clamp it in a bench 
vise. Turn the tool in the direction you would turn it if you were backpedalling
the bike, i.e. counter-clock as you look at the freewheel end of the hub. Turn 
it no more than needed to loosen it, 1/4 turn or so, and it should be then loose 
enough to turn off by turning the tool with your fingers (at this point you need 
to remove the skewer, as the freewheel is coming OUT from the hub).

To replace, you do NOT need the tool. Lightly grease the hub threads, start the 
f.w. back onto the threads carefully to avoid cross-threading 'em, and turn it 
on hand-tight. The first time you ride the wheel after that, it'll jam nicely 
back into position. Have fun!
                                         ken
1989.2Ping! There goes another pawl spring.UKCSSE::ROBINSONJust an endorphine junkie....Wed Jul 10 1991 05:5512
    First a disclaimer - there are lots of fiddly little bits inside a
    freewheel; if you lose them don't blame me!
    It sounds like the looseness you are talking about is caused by play in
    the bearings. Taking the cogs or the whole freewheel off will not help
    to cure this. What you need to remove is the threaded bearing cover
    usually tightened/loosened with a peg spanner (or a hammer and
    centrepunch for animals). Simply regreasing the ball races might cure
    the problem (this is where you might lose some bits!) or more likely 
    you will need to reshim and replace the cover.
    Sounds frightening? Then buy a new one or take it to a shop.
    
    Chris
1989.3SOLVIT::LANDRYWed Jul 10 1991 10:4211
>
>If you don't use the skewer properly (or at all) you WILL break 
>the tool, guaranteed. 
>

	Gee, I've NEVER used the skewer, and never broken anything.
	Guess I'm just lucky - EVERYTHING will probably break next
	time I try it.  Never did it with a wrench though, always
	used a bench vise.


1989.4Never had to pay up on this before.... :-)SUSHI::KMACDONALDsushi: not just for breakfast!Wed Jul 10 1991 11:1214
>>>If you don't use the skewer properly (or at all) you WILL break 
>>>the tool, guaranteed. 
>	Gee, I've NEVER used the skewer, and never broken anything.

Using a Suntour f/w remover and you didn't break it? Amazing! Generally the tool
pops out enough so that one of the pins will shear off if you don't use the
skewer. Guess you'll be the first one to collect on the GUARANTEE!

GUARANTEE: If your Suntour f/w removal tool doesn't break when removing a
freewheel WITHOUT using the skewer, you won't need a new tool, so I won't
give you one.

There, feel better now? :-)
                                       ken
1989.5oops!SOLVIT::LANDRYFri Jul 12 1991 10:048
	Oops!  I was reading through this quickly trying to catch up
	after a couple of weeks away and missed that we were talking
	about the 2 prong Suntour removers.  Nope, never done one of
	those.  You can still consider your guarantee intact!

	chris