Conference noted::bicycle

    IF THERE IS BINDING IT WILL SLOW YOU DOWN, REALY
    THIS WILL CAUSE GAUGING ON THE BEARING RACES OAND BALLBEARINGS.
    LOOSE AS FAR AS SIDE TO SIDE PLAY LESS THAN 030" MOVEMENT
    ON THE END OF THE SHAFT IS ACCEPTABLE ON LESS PRECISE COMPONENTS
    THE EFFECT WILL BE ON WHEELS YOUR RIM WILL HAVE PLAY THAT CAN
    AFFECT YOUR BRAKE PAD GAP AND TURN RESPONCE.
    ON CRANKS THIS MAY AFFECT FRONT SHIFTER GAP.
    HEADSETS A DEFINITE AFFECT CAN BE FELT WHEN FRONT BRAKES ARE 
    APPLIED. THIS ART OF SETTING BEARING CONES IS DONE BY FEEL
    AND EXPERIENCE. IF YOU WANT TO TEST YOURSELF GO TO YOUR 
    LOCAL BIKE STORE AND FEEL HUBSETS FOR SETTINGS TRY A GOOD AND
    A CHEAP TYPE FOR REFERENCE .

    
    	Loose is better than binding. Look at it this way-
    	Do you want to wear loose shoes or tight shoes?
    
    	Roger

I prefer to be able to just feel my bearings are a little loose - in the other
direction it's difficult to tell whether they are just right or really
binding without complete dis-assembly.  For example, if you grab the ends of the
cranks and can just feel the play, you know you are OK - how many times have you
taken off the cranks and found the bearings have tightened up and the axle is
impossible to turn by hand, although your mighty thighs have not noticed!!  I
think most bike bearings are designed to "tighten" rather than "loosen" for the
sake of safety.

On the other hand it drives me crazy to have a headset that rattles as you brake
and that brings on the other fault of overtightening - I have ruined more
headsets than I care to remember by doing this.  I worked in the Ball and Roller
bearing industry for 13 years and the stresses put on races by over-compressing
the elements are incredible.  I also made the mistake of putting high quality
balls which were readily available, into my bike quality headsets and wrecked
them.  Since then I have always used cheap ones for cheap headsets and those
supplied with Campag (I don't really believe even Campag are a high standard). 

    	A small suggestion...
    
    	Another way to attempt a perfect setting: try adjusting your
    	axle cones with the wheels removed from the machine.
    
    	Adjust the cones so there's a very slight amount of bearing "play".
    	Y'all know wha' I be meanin' by d'at...
    
    	When replacing the wheel on the bike, the tightening of the
    	skewer, or axle bolts, should nullify any slight amount of play
    	within the bearings.
    
    	Try this a few times, it's gets easier as one learns the correct
    	pre-adjustment play...
    
    	I use strictly quick-release axles, and I've been able to obtain
    	virtually a "perfect" bearing ajdustment once the wheel is placed
    	between a set of dropouts. No bearing play, with no binding of
    	the bearings between the cones and the races.
    
    	Quick note:
    	With the incredible doses of abuse dished out on mountain-bikes,
    	I would highly recommend against leaving a small amount of play
    	in your hub axles. This will cause premature pitting of cones,
    	and hub races. Not to mention the other horrors associated with
    	incorrect bearing adjustment: Cracked/broken bearings/axles...
    
    							Regards, Face