Conference noted::bicycle

    
    One of my bikes is a Wicked Fat Chance.  I ordered it without the
    cantilver braze-ons for 26" wheels.  I installed Moots mounts and use
    700C knobbies.  I also installed Wilderness Trail drop bars.  My
    biggest headache was finding a stem that would put the drops at the
    right height.  Since I was using a mountain bike frame which was
    smaller than my usual road bike size the stem had to be very tall or
    have a steep rise.  I settled on the Ibis LD drop stem.  The stem
    is simply a single bent piece of tubing with a clamp for the bars.
    Mine has 6" of rise and 3" of reach.  They look a little funny but
    function just fine.  
      This bike is best suited for open dirt roads and very rough tar but 
    on occasion has gone on something technical.  Just had to be careful 
    bashing the wheels.  This bike is much faster than fat tire, flat bar
    bikes until we get to something technical.
    
    						Norm
    
    

    
    Forgot you wanted to know about brake levers and such.  I installed
    Ultegra levers which work fine with the cantilevers brakes.  For 
    shifting I ordered a Wilderness trail SIS conversion kit.  This kit 
    allows you to install the non push push shimano thumb shifters (old 
    style) inboard of the brake levers.  I can now brake with both levers 
    and down shift both derailleurs all at the same time.  Very handy when 
    riding down a trail and encountering a stream bed or when when 
    approaching a red light at high speed.
      Everything else on the bike is typical MTB componentery except for 
    the clipless pedals.
    
    						Norm
    
    

    Thanks for info!  The stem & shifter info will be particularly helpful. 
    As I mentioned, my principal motivation is to have a Heavy Duty road
    bike for weather/rough-routes to which I'd rather not expose my 'good
    bike'.  (Though I DID take it down a trail this past weekend & must
    confess I can start to understand what people see in off-roading).
    Thanks again.

    Norm, your bike sounds like just what I'm looking for for post-season
    trail bashing.  Obviously, I couldn't go into a shop and buy one
    like yours, but do you know of anybody who makes something close?
    
    MATT

    One of the mountain bike magazines had a review of a Bianchi (I forget
    the model) that sounded very much like this, but it was up in the
    $900.00 range.  I've been going back and forth as to whether I want to
    stick with the 26" wheels or go to 700C.  I've pretty much decided to
    stick with the 26", that way I can throw narrower road tires on it for
    3 season use, and try putting studs in the knobbies for the winter. 
    Besides, I don't want to go out and replace the rims right now.

    
    	I built a mountain bike from the frame up specifically for road
    riding. After considering my options, I decided to use standard
    mountain bike components with the exception of the tires.  I'm using 
    Specialized FAT BOY slicks that are 26 x 1.25 and are rated to
    100lbs. They are really fast! I consider this bike to be my "city"
    bike. It's exceptional for zipping around town. With the Q.R. seat
    binder, flat bars and Q.R. wheels I can easily dissassemble it and 
    put it in the trunk of the car - with my luggage. It has advantages.
    The mountain pedals accomodate sneakers and the gel seat lets me
    ride in walking shorts (for a while anyway). Some days I just don't 
    want to look like a road racer and walk around in cleats :-)
    
    	For your handlebar stem, you might look around for one of the
    older aluminum Sakae mountain stems. The one I put on my bike has 
    80mm of reach - short compared to what I see on most machines today, 
    and I think it would be about right for a pair of dropped bars.
    It has an upward bend, about 45 degrees I'd say. They're cheap too,
    I think I gave $15.
    
    	On a long ride you might want the dropped bars, but for short
    rides (>10 miles as you mentioned) the uprights should be fine.
    Besides, they handle great in traffic. I rode 22 miles in the hills
    of upstate NY last weekend and the position was fine.  If I were
    to go touring on this bike I'd want drops, however.
    
    	I'd try the tires first. Don't forget to buy new tubes too.

    Ed.

    Yes, I do consider the tires a priority.  I'm also thinking of
    replacing the chainrings with a higher range set (I've seen 32-42-52
    sets advertised), since I never use that current twenty-something
    granny gear.  Question: will this necessitate changing my chain as
    well?
    
    	This morning I noticed an ad for Scott Bars for mountain bikes - I
    think they were called MT4, or MB4, or some such.  They looked like
    some of those new-fangled road bars, and are touted as offering 4
    different hand positions.  These seem like an attractive alternative,
    since they would not require me to change brake levers, shift levers,
    or stem.  Any opinions on these? Also, after riding home from work last
    night in the rain I decided that fenders might me a nice addition too
    8^{}
    							jb

    I have a set of the Scott MT4 bars and I like them.  They give the
    standard ATB position as well as a more areo dynamic position for
    faster downhills, a more forward position in climbing and just some
    nice extra positions for longer rides.
    
    I'd recommend them!
    
    ...Ed

    re [-1] Thanks - one thing, I noticed an ad that listed them for
    thirty-someodd dollars, and then listed Scott MT4 connector or bridge
    or something for an additional charge - are they sold "as you see
    them", or is the connector extra?  Thanks.  

    
    RE.4
    Matt,
         I spent a year trying to find a "hybrid" bike to suit my needs.
    I just didn't find anything.  Some of the bikes I looked at were
    Bianchi Equinox, Offroad Climber, Zenn, Specialized Cross something or
    other and some very expensive "customs".  NOTHING.  I finally decided
    to build my own.  I paid a hefty price but the bike doubles as a
    touring bike if I put road tires on it.  Actually the last time I went
    touring I left the knobbies on it.  I took a few "short cuts" on dirt
    roads and had a blast.
      The frame may be a racing offroad frame but it is not overly
    squirrely when fully loaded.  On the other hand when the panniers are
    off it is not a slug.  Some day soon I may buy a real touring bike.
    
    						Norm
    
    
    	

    re .9
    
    Mine included the bridge.

    Thenkls for all the info - With respect to changing gearing, mind
    currently has 28-38-48 chain rings.  I noticed someplace advertising
    34-46-54 gears, which sound like they'd be just what I'd like.  I NEVER
    use the granny gear as it is, and this set would give me a low that's
    just a bit lower than my currrent middle, which would be nice, a
    middle slightly lower than my current high, which would be decent for
    commuting in traffic, and a high which, considering the 26" wheels,
    would probably be just about the same as the high on my road bike.  Is
    there any potential problem in this that I should be aware of?  thanks.

    Why not change the rear to a 12-24 cluster. The weight and cost
    would be less with 28-38-48 chainrings.
    
    Dick

    I'm planning on doing the Mt. Washington race this September and I
    need a freewheel (minimum 14-32 tooth) and derailluer that can handle
    the freewheel.  I'm not looking for anything too fancy, just a used
    set-up that will be reliable for this event.
    
    Phil

    [re .13] I think that I have a 12-xxx or 13-xxx cluster now, so that really
    wouldn't help pick up my top end, would it? I can see how it would give
    me a closer ratio, but then wouldn't I have to match the derailleur to
    it?  

    Just a thought . . . anyone out there have a hankerin' for that upright
    riding position?  Before I go out and buy a set of drop bars, I'd be
    interested in hearing from anyone who might be interested in swapping
    their drop bars & brake levers for my straight bars & brake levers.
    
    The bars are black, with a slight bend in them, and the brake levers
    are also black.  I'd include the grips, of course.  If you're building
    yourself a mountain-hybrid out of a road bike, rather than road-hybrid
    out of a mountain bike like I am, maybe we can work something out.
    
    						Joe

    I purchased a Schwinn 21 speed Crisscross Hybrid in August of 91. 
    Bike handles alright and shifting is nice and smooth but I really 
    miss the speed of the open road and the more comfortable position
    of drop handlebars.
    
    Would like a reality check on converting it to a 100% road bike.
    
    Speaking of options:  Should I / Can I successfully convert the 
                          Crisscross to a 100% road bike?  Shops that
                          will do (a good job on) the conversion?) I 
                          intend to do a lot of bike touring / camping 
                          this year. 
                          (30 to 120 miles weekend)  
    
                        : Should I try and sell / trade back to a touring
                          bike?
    
            Scot

    Switching to dropped handlebars should be pretty easy.  You'll probably
    need a new stem (road bars that fit mountain bike stems are rare), new
    shifters, and new brake levers.  Note that this is a labor intensive
    job (adjusting cables, wrapping handlebar tape, etc.) so you'll
    probably save yourself alot of money by doing it yourself.  No bearings
    are involved, so no particular skill is needed.
    
    You may also want to switch to road tires.  I'm not sure what kind of
    rims this bike has, but most road tires should fit.  Only the narrowest
    (which you probably don't want anyway) won't fit.
    
    Ken