| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 1471.1 | don't get too big a frame | TOOK::R_WOODBURY | | Mon Apr 02 1990 12:01 | 31 |
| I'm not familiar with the FITKIT, but I thought I'd put in my 2 cents.
> After about 4 years of Mountain bike'n with the last year all road miles I've
> decided to purchase a road bike. Last year I added Scott AT4 bars to my ATB
What do you intend to use your "road bike" for? racing? touring? Long
rides? Short rides? These things can make a difference.
> made some initial measurements to help me determine frame size. Using the
> FITKIT he measured crotch to floor and crotch to base of neck and came up with
> a recommended seat tube of 63cm and a top tube of 57cm (I'm 6'1", 33" inseam).
> So the Trek 62cm frame looks like the way to go. He said the will have to
> change the stem to a 90-95 to get the top tube length correct. He also measured
>> my feet and my left foot was bigger and mumbled something about crank length.
63 cm seems kinda big. For racing, the trend is for much smaller frames
(I have a 31" inseam and can use a 54 or 55 center to center for
racing). For touring/long rides, a larger frame allows you to position
your stem higher, at the expense of higher wind resistance resulting
from a more upright position. The fact that you would need a relatively
short short stem for a 63 cm frame (which also has a longer top tube)
indicates that the frame is too big for you. A 60 cm would be better,
I'd guess. Don't go with different length cranks if you can help it. If
your feet are only a half size apart and leg length differs by no more
than 1/4", there is no further adjustment you need to make. With your
leg length, you might benefit from 172.5 or 175 mm cranks (both sides),
however.
Bon Chance!
roger
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| 1471.2 | Answers... | WAV13::DELORIEA | Time to make the jerseys | Mon Apr 02 1990 13:52 | 35 |
| >>How does #3 effect crank length?
I don't know what foot size has to do with crank length, but a 6' tall person
can use the leverage of a longer crank. I'd get 175mm cranks.
>>In my example, my left foot is longer so should my left crank be shorter?
No, only if the leg length is different by an inch or more.
>>Does #4 mean wider shoulder equates to wider bars?
Yes, opens the chest to allow better breathing and more comfort.
>>Should they be changed if they are not correct on the stock bike?
If you want...
>>How about #5, is this just the angle of the bars in the stem?
No, its the distance between the top of the bar to the drop. So your hand will
fit comfortably in the curve of the drop.
>>Is #6 the seat tilt angle?
No, its the angle of the tube the seat post is in, in relationship to the
ground.
>>What are they actually supposed to do for a RAD cleat adjustment (the Trek 1400 has LOOK 66 pedals and I bought Shimano
>>Carbon cleated shoes)?
Very few people pedal or walk for the matter with their feet perfectly
straight. What the RAD system does is find the angle your feet are at when you
pedal. So when you put the cleat on you shoe its at the correct angle.
Tom
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| 1471.3 | 60 cm / 58 cm | DISCVR::HUI | | Mon Apr 02 1990 14:26 | 21 |
| If you are planning to do a lot of riding on the road and Time Trials. I
would even go down to a 58cm (22.8"). Your frame will flex more when
the size increases. The saddle height is usually 0.885 of the inseam
length. This is measured from the top of the saddle to the center of
the bottom bracket. If you are getting a 63cm, your seat post will
bearly be showing. The top of you stem height should be 1" below your
saddle height. my recomendation is to get a 60cm or a 58cm.
Becarefull with the frame measurments. Every company measures their
frame sizes differently. So do it center to center. Other do it from
center to top.
As for the crank arm length. the typical rule of thumb is if you inseam
is < 29", use 165-mm: 29 to 32", 170mm; 32 to 34, 17.5 mm and > 34",
175mm.
Good Luck!
Dave
FYI: I'm 6' with a 33" inseam and I ride a 58 cm
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| 1471.4 | Great, Thanx for the answers | AKOV11::SMITH | Reality, just a visible imagination? | Mon Apr 02 1990 14:35 | 41 |
| Re .1
> What do you intend to use your "road bike" for? racing? touring? Long
> rides? Short rides? These things can make a difference.
No racing (except with my riding buddys of course). I usually do "short" rides
during the week, 10m @ lunch and about 15m after work. On weekends I try to get
one longer ride in between 30-60m. Hoping to do a few 100m's this season.
> 63 cm seems kinda big. For racing, the trend is for much smaller frames
(I have a 31" inseam and can use a 54 or 55 center to center for...
Thats what I thought but FITKIT (non-racing) indicated a 63.1cm is the ideal for
Seat tube. The Trek 62cm actually measured closer to 60cm center to center so
I think I'm ok. I test rode the bike am it "felt" comfortable.
re .2
> >>How about #5, is this just the angle of the bars in the stem?
> No, its the distance between the top of the bar to the drop. So your
> hand will fit comfortably in the curve of the drop.
The Trek 1400 has the new anatomic(sp) bars and my hands were comfortable in
the curve. Do different size bars (width wise) have different distances from
the top of the bar to the drop?
> >>Is #6 the seat tilt angle?
> No, its the angle of the tube the seat post is in, in relationship to
> the ground.
So this is set by the bike manfacturer when he designs the frame. I would guess
then that this is a consideration when determining top tube length.
Thanks for all the input
...Ed
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