[Search for users] [Overall Top Noters] [List of all Conferences] [Download this site]

Conference noted::bicycle

Title: Bicycling
Notice:Bicycling for Fun
Moderator:JAMIN::WASSER
Created:Mon Apr 14 1986
Last Modified:Fri Jun 06 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:3214
Total number of notes:31946

1384.0. "Am I off to a good start?" by DPDMAI::REINSCH () Fri Dec 15 1989 12:53

    I have just purchased a Fuji Team, 1987 model that was still brand new. 
    It has Suntour Sprint (not indexed) and Ishiwata top-of-the line frame
    (5698, I believe!).  The Wheels are Araya and are both 36 spoke.  I
    added a gel seat, a Avercet 30, and upgraded the tires to IRC
    triathlon's.
    
    My question is this?  Since I'm well over 200lbs., are there other
    things I can do to make sure that the bike is safe (until I grind off
    the lbs.) and will I be able to upgrade the components on this frame
    with Indexed, etc.?  The gearing is 52/42 X 13/24.  I would like a
    little lower gearing for the hills right now.  Can I move to a
    different freewheel.
    
    What do you think?
    
    Thanks,
    
    Gary
T.RTitleUserPersonal
Name
DateLines
1384.1TALLIS::JBELLZeno was almost hereFri Dec 15 1989 14:1423
>    The Wheels are Araya and are both 36 spoke.  I
>    added a gel seat, a Avercet 30, and upgraded the tires to IRC
>    triathlon's.
>... Since I'm well over 200lbs., ...
>    ... The gearing is 52/42 X 13/24.  I would like a
>    little lower gearing for the hills right now.  Can I move to a
>    different freewheel?

  Speaking as an 1/8 ton cyclist, these are what I'd worry about:

    How wide are the tires?  This matters more than the brand.  (Even
    more important is that you always keep them full.)

    Watch for bent rear axles.  Always use the best you can find,
    or go to solid axles.

    The easiest way to change the gearing is to change freewheels.
    That gearing might be a little steep.  I use 52/39 X 13/32,
    but then half of my miles are with a tent etc.  At least try
    this freewheel before swapping.  You'll know if you need lower,
    as long as you don't try to mash your knees.

    -Jeff Bell
1384.2Careful with that derailleurCESARE::JOHNSONMatt Johnson, DTN 871-7473Fri Dec 15 1989 14:4515
    24tooth is about the max for a Sprint derailleur.  They have a really
    short cage, so they can't take up the slack of a big freewheel.  (They
    shift great, though....)  If you want to go to something with more
    teeth, now might be the time to buy an indexed derailleur set.
    
    Ditto on the tires.  If they're tubulars, make sure they're at least
    21.5mm, if not 24mm.  For clinchers, look for 1 1/4", and stay away
    from anything 1" or less.  Your rims will last lots longer this way!
    
    Everything else on the bike should be fine.  Enjoy it!  And remember to
    read the note titled "A Thanks from Minnesota" in this conference for
    inspiration.
    
    
    MATT
1384.3Try changing the chainring for a lower rationNCADC1::PEREZJust one of the 4 samurai!Mon Dec 18 1989 00:0929
    Hm...  How 'bout this...  the guy from Minnesota will stick his nose in
    here.  As someone who started out 1/7+ of a ton... now down to 236!
    
    As far as tires - definitely keep them full.  I found that makes a huge
    difference in how easy the bike is to ride and how much in control you
    feel.
    
    On rear axles...  My TREK (had to get a plug in!) has Dura-Ace hubs and
    axles.  They have always been VERY tough...  I've gone 1000 miles this
    year, several hundred of them at 275 pounds and up, and gone up and
    down over Minnesota potholes (only when I couldn't avoid them) and curb
    cuts with absolutely no problem.
    
    On gearing... it depends on what kind of shape you are in...  when I
    started in June I couldn't ride on the flat much less climb anything. 
    I put a set of Deore XT 28-38-48 triple chainrings on and it gives me a
    lot better set of ranges for my capabilities.  Even now, I can't see
    many situations where I'd need taller gears for the way I ride.  On
    downhills I've been over 35 mph in a 48-13 which is plenty fast for me. 
    I get over 20 mph and start having visions of stories from the note in
    here about crashes.
     
    You can probably change the 52 to a 50 or 48 chainring if you want a
    little lower gearing.  I think that will also work with your
    derailleur.
    
    Good luck.    
    
    D
1384.4my 2�CLYPPR::FISHERPat PendingMon Dec 18 1989 09:127
    RE:.3:  Are those Dure-Ace free-hub hubs (the rear one).  If so that is
    a strong plus for durability.  The load on the axle is much farther out
    on the right side which causes much less stress.  The bike in .0 most
    likely has a conventional rear hub which could result in axle bending
    or breaking.
    
    ed
1384.5YOU'RE DOIN' FINE...WMOIS::C_GIROUARDWed Dec 20 1989 11:5311
    What a coincidence. I owned the exact bike (still do in fact but
    built a new one last winter) you have. All I can tell you is I
    have never had a lick of trouble with mine. If you're just doing
    road riding, that 24 gear should be plent for you unless you're
    planning some mountains. The frame is extremely well built and
    the factory set-up should do nicely (200lbs. isn't really that
    much unless 5'0"). You'll like it. It's very durable, relatively
    stiff for the price range and the components are very good. If
    you have rim or axel problems, it won't be due to equipment.
    
     My .02 cents