T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
---|
832.1 | Maybe you tightened it too much | IAMOK::WESTER | | Mon Aug 22 1988 17:45 | 11 |
| I tightened my headset down too much and had the same problem as
you. At least that's what the shop said. Apparantly if you
overtighten the headset you'll end up with a brindled headset
(notched).
Campy is very high quality so 1400 miles of normal use is pretty
soon to wear out the race. I think you'll just have to replace
the worn parts and not tighten it down as much.
Dave
|
832.2 | Could have been installed wrong | CIMNET::MJOHNSON | | Mon Aug 22 1988 18:25 | 8 |
| It's also possible that it was installed incorrectly. If the races
were not set exactly evenly, then a flat spot could develop, as
you describe.
The next question is: how do you tell what caused the problem,
overtightening or poor installation? I'm afraid I don't know.
MATT
|
832.3 | | AHOUSE::ACKLEY | Still the King of Nothing | Tue Aug 23 1988 10:43 | 4 |
|
You can rotate the races 90 degrees and get a little more use from
it though.
|
832.4 | wind trainer in use? | CIMAMT::CHINNASWAMY | bicycling in pixel space,',',', | Tue Aug 23 1988 13:35 | 9 |
| Do you use your bike on a wind trainer? I was told by a mechanic
that a fork mounted wind trainer can cause your headset to form a
'groove'. It happens because you grab you handle bars and wiggle them
back and forth while riding. however, the fork is fixed and can't move.
This back and forth wiggle in the same spot over time can supposedly
cause a groove to form.
Mano
|
832.5 | all road miles | CAD::GLYNN | | Tue Aug 23 1988 14:40 | 17 |
| No, I don't have a wind trainer, but that's useful information
and a good arguement for rollers. The other two replies are
helpful too... Thanks for your thoughts.
I called International and was told that if the headset loosened
up, pitting in the alloy could occur. I told them that I thought
this should be a warrenty item (1400 mi.) but got a "Ya, but"'s.
Has anyone dealt with International on warranty issues? Are they
reasonable and fair?
If they want to hit me up for the cost, I may try the 90 degree
rotation trick.
Thanks
/John
|
832.6 | A warranty is a warranty ... | MCIS2::NORTON | | Wed Aug 24 1988 11:09 | 10 |
| I haven't dealt with International, but I had a similar headset
problem. I had bought my bike about 9 months earlier from Gamache's.
I brought the bike back to them, George was willing, with a little
coaxing, to replace the headset. Actually, I ended up with a much
better headset for the $15 price difference. Seems to me that as
long as your bike is under warranty and you haven't done anything
ridiculous to damage the headset, the warranty should be good.
Good luck,
Kathy
|
832.7 | Headset Bearings | BOGUSS::BARNES | Dave Barnes MDS Modesto, Ca | Thu Aug 25 1988 02:11 | 8 |
| If you can't get the shop to warrenty the headset then have
it overhauled and replace the bearings with free bearings.
This will extend the life of the headset.
It is my opinion that this is a normal problem with headsets
that use captive bearings.
Dave
|
832.8 | my headset experience | RDGENG::MACFADYEN | Roderick MacFadyen | Tue Aug 30 1988 12:35 | 17 |
| I'd agree with .7 that it's a normal problem.
I've replaced two headsets this year that had flat spots (identifiable
when the forks want to settle into the straight-ahead position when
allowed to swing free). When I looked at the worn headsets, they both
had dents in the bearing surfaces matching the position of the
ball-bearings. As hinted by .3, if you take it apart and re-assemble,
it should be ok (so I've read) because the ball-bearings and the
bearing surfaces will be rotated to a different relative configuration.
I replaced them though, with Red-S headsets. This headset has a
plastic body, so is lighter, and uses roller-bearings between steel
bearing surfaces. Since a roller-bearing must have a greater contact
area than a ball-bearing, I hope it will have less propensity to
dent the bearing surface. Only time will tell.
Rod (just back from my cycling holiday)
|
832.9 | Headset Life Expectancy? | ASIC::NBLIAMPTIS | multiprocessing as a way of life | Thu May 25 1989 09:59 | 9 |
| What's the average lif expectancy of a headset.
I just got my bike back from Wheel Works after an overhaul in
which the Shimano 600 headset was replaced. I was told "you got
almost 2 years and 4000 miles on your headset, that's about average".
I have nothing to compare this information with. Is that "the way
it is"?
Nick
(love my (now smoothly running) Cannondale)
|
832.10 | Should get more than 4000 miles | NOVA::FISHER | Rdb/VMS Dinosaur | Thu May 25 1989 10:25 | 16 |
| I think headsets should last a long time, couple of years and 10000
miles or more. Bearings may go faster because they don't roll round,
they wear into more of an eggshape.
If a headset goes after 4000 miles, it may have been too tight in the
first place causing pitting in the races (burnelling?). I've had a
few that I could never adjust right and I hate them. I've had others
where I did everything right and they're going on their third or fourth
year.
I do not have good luck with Campy's expensive ones. I have one that's
doing it's fourth or fifth year (Super record) but I've Supers and C's
go very quickly, also.
ed
love my, let's see which one is it this week, Serotta?
|
832.11 | | MEMORY::GOODWIN | in a spasm of lucidity... | Thu May 25 1989 11:58 | 8 |
| re: .9
A factor that leads to early headset failure is that when bikes
come from a factory assembled the headset is tightened down so the
fork doesn't turn in the box. This can damage the races and flatten
the bearings.
Paul
|
832.12 | disposable headsets | CURIE::HUPPERT | | Thu May 25 1989 12:39 | 9 |
| No personal experience (my Stronglight Delta headset works like
a champ), but I've heard more than one bicycle mechanic say that
a headset is the most disposable part of a bike. They take a fair
amount of shock. The mechanics say life expectancy is tough to
predict (depends on how, and where you ride).
I'm hoping to get good life out of my Stronglight. It not only
uses needle bearings for greater surface contact (as compared with
ball bearings) but also has replacable races.
|
832.13 | Cannondales love headsets | HPSCAD::CANFIELD | | Tue May 30 1989 12:32 | 10 |
| I ride a Cannondale and the bike came with a 600 headset. It lasted
on season (3000 miles). Cannondales are very good at eating headsets
because that are sooooo stiff (despite claims of smoooth rides).
I currently have a Campy headset (super record) and about 1500 miles.
So far so good. Many people have found that no matter what headset
they use, the don't last well in certain bikes or conditions so
they don't bother to but expensive ones in. If you do it your self,
then a 600 headset a year is pretty cheap.
Quinn
|
832.14 | Short bikes have bigger problems. | BANZAI::FISHER | Rdb/VMS Dinosaur | Sat Jun 03 1989 21:08 | 7 |
| Another factor which is related to the early demise of headsets is
the size of the headtube. The shorter the tube, the greater the
stresses placed upon the headset by the bouncing of the fork &
frontwheel. Georgena Terry explains this when seh describe the
design of her bikes.
ed
|
832.15 | | WORM::ACKLEY | Mediumfoot | Mon Jun 05 1989 12:22 | 18 |
| RE: .14
Well that explains the problems I've had with my little (19")
bike. The headset is getting beat to death, and the front
end has been so stiff as to vibrate my hands numb.
Last week, I fixed the vibration problems by adding an
"Offroad flexstem". It was kind of expensive, ($80!) but it
works real good. I don't know if this will extend the
headset life though, since the shock absorbing part of the stem
is above the headset, and the headset itself is still subjected
to the road vibration, even if my hands are now cushioned.
At any rate, the flexstem does seem to be an effective
way of modifying a stiff front end. They're kind of long
though, from 100 mm to 150 mm.
Alan.
|
832.16 | Headset stack height questions | JURA::PELAZ::MACFADYEN | Getting and spending | Wed Sep 30 1992 06:12 | 14 |
| After about 5000km the Shimano 105 headset on my Raleigh is fairly heavily
notched, which I don't like. I understand that if I remove and reassemble
the headset I'll probably get a partial cure, but I was thinking I might
move to a roller-bearing headset like a Stronglight on the assumption that
it will be more resistant to notching. However I'm worried about this thing
called stack height.
I cut the steerer tube of the front forks to fit a Shimano headset. If I
move to a different make of headset, am I liable to run into the problem
of there not being enough steerer tube for the locknut to grab? What other
makes of headset have a similar stack height to Shimano?
Rod
|
832.17 | lots of solutions | NOVA::FISHER | Rdb/VMS Dinosaur | Wed Sep 30 1992 08:10 | 8 |
| The stronglights that we wanted to put on Linda's Treks had 5-7 mm
greater stack height than the Shimano 600 that came off. We milled the
head tube on one and on the other we put on a Campy Chorus. I think the
Chorus is the short one. (This was because I thought "Nah, Linda would
never make a short head tube shorter and elected the Campy instead of
the milling. If I had only known.:-) ).
ed
|
832.18 | | PAKORA::GGOODMAN | Born Victim | Wed Sep 30 1992 08:42 | 8 |
|
Why is it so difficult for all component manufacturers to make
their equipment a standard size? Ever since I had to butcher my forks
to make them fit my Shimano headset, I've not had the courage to change
from Shimano... Or have I just answered my own question?
Graham.
|
832.19 | | NOVA::FISHER | Rdb/VMS Dinosaur | Wed Sep 30 1992 09:58 | 4 |
| because they are all like a bunch of digital managers, can't agree on
one way to do something -- till forced to. :-)
ed
|
832.20 | Add washers | VO2MAX::DELORIEA | I've got better things to do. | Wed Sep 30 1992 10:15 | 7 |
| No there isn't a standard headset stack height. I don't think you really need
one. You can do this yourself with the correct washers. I have a SHIMANO Dura
Ace with its moderate stack height of 36.3mm. I know that the Campy models are
40mm so I had the steerer tube cut a bit long and added a couple washers to
bring the stack height up to 40mm.
Tom
|
832.21 | | SUSHI::KMACDONALD | haba�eros 'R' us | Wed Sep 30 1992 10:25 | 5 |
| If you can put the Stronglight on, I doubt you'll regret it. I had to
mill the head tube a tiny bit on one of mine to replace a POS headset.
Worked grand, even with the locknut having a pretty tenuous grip on the
fork threads.
ken
|
832.22 | Rathole alert... | PAKORA::GGOODMAN | Born Victim | Wed Sep 30 1992 10:28 | 14 |
|
You don't really need one, but if it's not difficult what's the
problem? It's the same all over not just with headsets, not even just
with cycling. For example, when oh when will the world realise that
Sterling is the best currency and adopt it? Then we don't have to
bother about currency conversions. My parents are just back from
Turkey. The exchange rate was roughly 12000 Turkish wotsits (lira I
think) to the pound. 12000!!!??? What sort of currency is that? Mind
you, under the current UK economic climate, it's still a lot stronger
than sterling. Maybe I'll mention that to Norman Lamont as his new
strategy - change the currency to the Turkish lire. It'll save him from
creating World War 3 between us and the Germans anyway...
Graham.
|
832.23 | can't add tube. | NOVA::FISHER | Rdb/VMS Dinosaur | Wed Sep 30 1992 12:16 | 6 |
| "No there isn't a standard headset stack height. I don't think you really need
..."
Difficult if the steer tube's been cut for a short head set already...
ed
|
832.24 | Apropos not much.. | IDEFIX::HEMMINGS | Lanterne Rouge | Thu Oct 01 1992 07:17 | 4 |
| My 979 has a Stronglight needle roller headset. It is fine but I was
disappointed to find that it is not very waterproof and had gone rusty. Next
time I go to Fusberti's I'm going to ask about other offerings as the start of
my plan to change to "sealed" BB and hubs.
|
832.25 | And there's more... | IDEFIX::HEMMINGS | Lanterne Rouge | Fri Oct 02 1992 10:34 | 7 |
| As an aside to my previous note, there are two things I would advise people
NEVER to do to a pair of forks -
1. Don't cut off excess thread, use washers.
2. Don't reduce the diameter where the crown race fits.
I think these two actions lead ultimately to disaster.......
|
832.26 | | 28300::GOOD | | Fri Oct 02 1992 11:09 | 5 |
|
I have a 1.25" headset on my Cannondale with an A-TAC stem that
is about 1.5" dia. sitting on it. It looks very impressive.
Roger
|
832.27 | | JURA::PELAZ::MACFADYEN | Getting and spending | Mon Oct 05 1992 07:33 | 6 |
| Re .25: I cut the steerer tube on the new bike to fit a Shimano headset.
Now I'm beginning to wish I hadn't. Felt like vandalism even while I was
doing it...
Rod
|
832.28 | Could be worse.. | IDEFIX::HEMMINGS | Lanterne Rouge | Tue Oct 06 1992 04:54 | 8 |
|
In the club I used to belong to, a guy had a problem getting the headset out of
a frame. For some reason, he thought it would help if he sawed through the down
tube and the top tube.........
Another suggestion, seeing you seem to be on good terms with Raleigh, perhaps
the forks could be doctored to come unstuck so you can get a new pair. Failing
that perhaps you could buy a new pair, with the pound at 8,60........
|
832.29 | always looking for techniques that work.... | SUSHI::KMACDONALD | haba�eros 'R' us | Tue Oct 06 1992 09:38 | 6 |
| >In the club I used to belong to, a guy had a problem getting the headset out of
>a frame. For some reason, he thought it would help if he sawed through the down
>tube and the top tube.........
Well? Did it help???
ken
|
832.30 | | JURA::PELAZ::MACFADYEN | Getting and spending | Fri Oct 09 1992 11:13 | 15 |
| T'would be silly to buy new forks simply because I couldn't use non-Shimano
headsets, a fact I'm not even sure of yet. Anyway I looked at the headset
last night as part of a late-season maintenance sesh, took out the upper
press-in part and then replaced it rotated 90�, re-greased and re-assembled
the headset, with the happy result that the straight-ahead notch has gone -
for the moment.
Speaking of Raleigh, my man there phoned me today with some good news. The
delivery company which took my new frame to me this year recently sent me
a demand for 700Fr worth of TVA (French purchase tax) which was pretty
irritating on a free-of-charge item. So I bunged the whole invoice off to
Raleigh and they're paying it. Good customer service. Crap Euro-bureaucracy.
Rod
|
832.31 | Their fault anyway... | IDEFIX::HEMMINGS | Lanterne Rouge | Mon Oct 12 1992 05:43 | 2 |
| Raleigh should have marked the package free replacement and then there would have
been no problem. (well that's my opinion, and I know nuthin).
|
832.32 | | JURA::PELAZ::MACFADYEN | Getting and spending | Mon Oct 12 1992 07:40 | 1 |
| They did...
|
832.33 | stuck washers... | EDWIN::GULICK | Those dirty rings !! | Wed Feb 10 1993 14:29 | 12 |
| I'd like to re-build the headset on my beater bike (12 year old Univega) but I can't
seem to get the stacking washers off. They have 3 equally spaced nothches on the sides
similar to a BB lockring so it seems that a smaller version of the BB tool would be used
to loosen them. I went to Gamache's on Sat expecting to get such a tool but they had never
heard of one. I have tried channel locks and a Park pin tool but can't budge them.
Have also sprayed on massive quantities of Wd-40 to no avail. The only thing I haven't
tried is the ultimate loosener of rused-on nuts/bolts: Coca-Cola.
Anybody have any suggestions/comments/tool they want to lend ?
-tom
|
832.34 | couple ideas | AKOCOA::FULLER | | Thu Feb 11 1993 09:14 | 7 |
| Can you attempt to tighten the upper race, using a piece of wood in the
upper part of the fork, thereby breaking the seal? A good pair of
channel locks with a piece of wood for leverage in the forks usually
works.
good luck
steve
|
832.35 | amazing what a little thought will do... | EDWIN::GULICK | Those dirty rings !! | Thu Feb 11 1993 09:35 | 7 |
| I got them loose last night by using a BB lockring tool. The problem was the diameter
of the washer was too small for the tool all by itself so I just put a pencil next to
the washer to give the BB tool something close to the diameter it wanted to work with,
applied the appropriate muscle and off it came.
-tom
|
832.36 | Campag replaces Shimano | JURA::PELAZ::MACFADYEN | It should be illegal | Mon Apr 19 1993 05:40 | 9 |
| Re my own .16 and following replies: I've just replaced the Shimano 105
headset with a Campag Veloce headset - no stack height problems.
Mind you, if I was Campag I would have made damn sure that anything Veloce
could go anywhere that anything 105 could. Seeing that they're such obvious
competitors.
Rod
|
832.37 | Al frame/steel stem ? | EDWIN::GULICK | Those dirty rings !! | Wed Aug 04 1993 23:08 | 11 |
| I have a 4 year old Trek 1400 (Al frame) and I can't seem to get the stem out
no matter how much I tap (not-so-gently) on the expander bolt with my trusty
hammer and block of wood.
I don't believe the stem has ever been removed before so I'm wondering if I'm
seeing the phenomena where 2 dissimilar metals "weld" themselves together if
not periodically separated.
Any suggestions before I take the bike down to Chelmsford Cyclery ?
-tom
|
832.38 | | NOVA::FISHER | US Patent 5225833 | Thu Aug 05 1993 07:26 | 12 |
| That happened to one of Linda's a month ago, so I duplicated her
efforts, then a light bulb went off:
I unscrewed the bolt and pulled out the stem leaving the expander
bolt behind. it was one of the wedge shaped expanders not one of
conical ones. THen with the stem out I rescrewed the bolt into the
wedge, now I had a lot more leeway to push the bolt every which way
the break the bind the wedge had on the steer tube.
Good Luck.
ed
|
832.39 | more woes... | RCOCER::EDWARDS | | Fri Aug 19 1994 15:24 | 17 |
| I recently borrowed my secretary's (Penny) tandem so that my wife & I could give it
a test drive before we possibly buy one. It's a few year old Satana Sovereign with
a Deore XT headset.
After a few hundred miles the headset began clanking with a sound similar to what
you might get if something were hitting every other spoke. Penny's husband said
that sometime he reverses the front wheel & the noise goes away. I did this & the
noise stopped temporarily. He also said that the last time the tandem was in the
shop the mechanic said the headset has a tendency to tighten-up (???) on it's own.
I've tried adjusting the headset by loosening the lock-nut & turning the ring (?)
in both directions & then riding it. It's still making the noise.
Any ideas? I obviously don't want to continue riding if I'm doing any damage.
Thanks!
Ray
|
832.40 | | MASALA::GGOODMAN | Loonatic | Sat Aug 20 1994 10:47 | 4 |
|
Has anyone cleaned the bearings recently?
Graham.
|
832.41 | | RCOCER::EDWARDS | | Wed Aug 24 1994 12:56 | 12 |
| >>>Has anyone cleaned the bearings recently?
They (the owners) had the tandem in for other repairs early in the season. The headset
was making noise then so I suspect that the bearings were cleaned.
Adding to the confusion is the fact that we took the bike out this weekend & had a
front flat. When we put the tire back on the owner, who was riding with us, didn't
tighten the skewer as much as I normally do & the noise stopped. The front hub has
sealed bearings. Would any of this make a difference in the headset clanking?
Thanks again,
Ray
|
832.42 | comma missing | RCOCER::EDWARDS | | Wed Aug 24 1994 15:40 | 8 |
| >>>When we put the tire back on the owner, who was riding with us, didn't
tighten the skewer as much as I normally do & the noise stopped.
Penny was kind enough to point out to me that we didn't really put the tire back on
the owner! Here's the corrected sentence.
When we put the tire back on, the owner, who was riding with us, didn't
tighten the skewer as much as I normally do & the noise stopped.
|
832.43 | | MASALA::GGOODMAN | Loonatic | Wed Aug 24 1994 15:46 | 9 |
|
Is the noise coming from the top or the bottom of the headset. If it's
the bottom you may find that the noise isn't actually coming from the
headset, but the fork crown. If so, then I'd very quickly check that
the forks don'thave any cracks starting.
If not, then it's probably coincidence. maybe... :-)
Graham.
|
832.44 | | STOWOA::SWFULLER | | Wed Aug 24 1994 16:24 | 9 |
| Could it possibly be a rim/spoke problem? Perhaps something rattling
between the two layers of rim?
Does it make noise all the time, or just when you hit a bump?
Generally speaking, worn headsets don't make noises if the headset is
tight. However if the headset is loose, this could be the problem.
steve
|
832.45 | | MIMS::HOOD_R | | Fri Sep 02 1994 15:32 | 14 |
| >When we put the tire back on, the owner, who was riding with us, didn't
>tighten the skewer as much as I normally do & the noise stopped.
Possibly a broken axle? I know someone who rode a couple hundred
miles on a bike making a banging noise with a similar story. It
turned out that the axle was broken in such a way that it was held
together by the tightness of the skewer. When he pulled the wheel
and took of the skewer, it became quite evident when half the axle
fell out into his hand
doug
|
832.46 | A little tight | HYLNDR::OUELLETTE | Buddy Ouellette | Mon Feb 20 1995 16:59 | 19 |
|
After overhauling the Shimano RX100 headset on my road bike, I've noticed
that it requires just a tad more effort to steer the bike now than it did
before. I don't know if I'm being too picky or what, but I expected the
bike to steer the same as it did before my overhaul.
The bike is 3 years old and has about 6500 miles on it. This is the first time
the headset's been overhauled and the steering was fine before I did it.
I replaced the old bearings with new ones, cleaned the races, and packed it all
back together with new grease.
I tightened it so that it turned without excessive force and did not bind, but
also didn't allow any play in the fork.
Is it normal to feel a little stickier after a fresh overhaul or do you
think it's too tight? I did try it a little looser, but detected play in the
fork, so I tightened it back the way it was.
-Buddy
|
832.47 | slack better than tight | HERON::codger.vbo.dec.com::HEMMINGS | Lanterne Rouge | Tue Feb 21 1995 02:31 | 5 |
| Better to run them with a *little* slack in them. Too tight leads to pitting
and indenting of the balls in the races, you then get the dreaded notchy
effect. I would guess you have them too tight. BTW, always test with the
bare frame, you cannot tell very well with the bars and stem (and maybe front
wheel) fitted.
|
832.48 | | STOWOA::SWFULLER | | Tue Feb 21 1995 08:21 | 14 |
| Something doesn't sound right. Either adjustment is off, headset is
not in a symetrical plane, you replaced with wrong size bearings,
inferior bearings, or you had something wrong inside that the old
bearing adjusted to. I recently worked on a bottom bracket where we
put it together and it didn't work well (original parts). Owner didn't
want to replace anything. We swapped the bearing races on either side
and it now works great.
If you haven't done a headset before, find someone who can provide some
advise. If you are in the central ma area, contact me directly, I am
currently running a bike workshop on the last week and we are doing
headsets tonight. I can take a quick look at it.
steve
|
832.49 | | NOVA::FISHER | now |a|n|a|l|o|g| | Tue Feb 21 1995 12:11 | 15 |
| you should replace headset bearings when you overhaul your headset.
The bearings wear such that they become egg shaped because they only
roll in one plane wearing only in one circle on their formerly
spherical surface. When you clean and regrease them and then
reassemble you put all of the 'eggs' into the races with different
orientations and they all make contact with the race surfaces
differently depending on which ones are contacting their old
equators to the races, etc.
having said that, which I didn't make up by the way :-), I think
the egg shapedness of the bearings is too small for most of
us to ever detect and you should ignore this and do as the
earlier note said, loosen the headset a little and get out and ride.
ed
|
832.50 | NFF | ROCKS::ROBINSON | Twitching the night away... | Wed Feb 22 1995 07:48 | 6 |
| Which all goes to prove the old adage: "If it ain't broke, don't fix
it" :-) I used to get paranoid about the slightest little lumpiness
in headraces, but unless it's really pitted or too tight, it really
doesn't matter that much does it? Hope yours is better soon, Buddy.
Chris
|
832.51 | Will try to loosen | HYLNDR::OUELLETTE | Buddy Ouellette | Wed Feb 22 1995 12:23 | 12 |
|
Thanks for the replies, folks.
I did replace the bearings with new ones, so I think I'll just loosen it up a
bit and ride it. The concensus I'm getting is that "too tight" is a common
mistake with headsets which can lead to premature wear or damage.
I'll see if I can loosen it up a bit without introducing too much play.
Thanks again,
-Buddy
|
832.52 | | STRATA::HUI | | Wed Feb 22 1995 17:18 | 18 |
| Buddy,
As I recall (haven't done a headset in awhile) the headset bearings had a
bearing holder. Did you put new loose bearings in the head set? I don't think
this should make much of a difference but it made explain why it feel a little
tight in the beginning. You might want to ride it for a day and see if it
will work in. As long as you did not bind the bearings, it should be OK.
You can always upgrade to a set of 600 headset:-) I don't think you will have
the stack height for Campy or Dura Ace. The cost will be putting on and taking
off racers though (Special tools).
Good Luck,
Dave
|
832.53 | Too many? | HERON::codger.vbo.dec.com::HEMMINGS | Lanterne Rouge | Thu Feb 23 1995 05:34 | 6 |
| On the loose bearing issue, you can also get too many balls in the races -
this will make it appear too tight as well. Rule of thumb no 997: Always
leave space for 1 more. With a caged set of balls, you will not see this
problem assuming you use the correct one (for example - some Campag track
sets used a different sized ball, only 1/64" but that's a lot in this
industry).
|
832.54 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Thu Feb 23 1995 05:44 | 5 |
| just a nit... there should be no "break-in" period for this type
work. the steering action should be very smooth and should be able
to swing one way or the other when tilted.
Chip
|
832.55 | Will it or will it not break in? | HYLNDR::OUELLETTE | Buddy Ouellette | Thu Feb 23 1995 12:52 | 30 |
|
>As I recall (haven't done a headset in awhile) the headset bearings had a
>bearing holder. Did you put new loose bearings in the head set? I don't think
>this should make much of a difference but it made explain why it feel a little
>tight in the beginning. You might want to ride it for a day and see if it
>will work in. As long as you did not bind the bearings, it should be OK.
Thanks for the reply, Dave. Yes, I did use the same bearing holder, but
now I'm second guessing myself about the orientation of the bearing holder
in the races. The manual I used says to leave the open ended portion of the
C shaped holder towards the races. I'm pretty sure I did it right, but since
it doesn't turn as easily as before, I'm having second thoughts.
I do want to ride it a while and see if it loosens up a bit, but some people
believe there should be no "break-in" period required (of course, there's
always the possibility that this person is still suffering from Ti fever ;-)
Sorry, Chip - couldn't resist!)
>You can always upgrade to a set of 600 headset:-) I don't think you will have
>the stack height for Campy or Dura Ace. The cost will be putting on and taking
>off racers though (Special tools).
Yeah. I was thinking of this. If it doesn't work out, I'll just bring it to
a shop and have them throw on a 600. After all, it has been 3.5 years and
about 6500 miles (New England pothole-type miles).
BTW, Dave, I'll be at Buchika's tomorrow for a bike fit analysis with John
Maurice. I might mention it while I'm there and have them take a look.
-Buddy
|
832.56 | | NOVA::FISHER | now |a|n|a|l|o|g| | Fri Feb 24 1995 05:16 | 3 |
| there is no break in period -- unless you want 'indexed steering' :-)
ed
|
832.57 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Fri Feb 24 1995 06:07 | 3 |
| -1 hey, i've had that a couple times! :-)
Chip
|
832.58 | Please be seated... | SALEM::DACUNHA | | Fri Feb 24 1995 12:22 | 6 |
|
Although there is no "breakin" required. The bearings
should be allowed to "seat" themselves propery. Basically, you
should adjust it so there is no play. Then, take it on a vigorous
ride and re-adjust.
|
832.59 | Just needed a litte settling in | HYLNDR::OUELLETTE | Buddy Ouellette | Fri Apr 28 1995 11:23 | 20 |
| An update on my headset overhaul:
> Although there is no "breakin" required. The bearings
> should be allowed to "seat" themselves propery. Basically, you
> should adjust it so there is no play. Then, take it on a vigorous
> ride and re-adjust.
This is what I eventually had to do. At first, after repacking with new
bearings and new grease, it seemed tight. After a few rides it loosened up
and I noticed grease collecting at the top bearing race on the steerer tube.
I tightened it up again and now it feels fine. No play, but it steers freely.
I even notice smoother braking with the front wheel, now. Not as jerky as
before.
BTW - I've always had some jerky braking in the front. Even with a new set
of Mavic Open4CD rims. It seems like the brakes catch a bump on the rim
(probably the weld where the seams join) and it jerks the fork. Does this
happen with all road rim/brake pad combinations? Maybe my fork is too flexible?
Ideas?
|
832.60 | | WMOIS::GIROUARD_C | | Fri Apr 28 1995 13:54 | 8 |
| i run mavics (4cd's) and it is the weld you feel. btw, it won't wear
down...
you'd have to explain (quantitatively - somehow) what the "fork jerk"
is like. mine is very noticeable in the front, but shouldn't be cause
for alarm.
Chip
|
832.61 | rim bumps on aero rims? | WRKSYS::ROTH | Geometry is the real life! | Fri Apr 28 1995 16:47 | 19 |
| I've had that rim bump while braking on some Arya rims (the same kind of
narrow rims as the Mavic O4CD.
This never occurs on *any* of the MA2 (uncoated) or MA40 (hard anodized)
rims I have, which are exactly the same except the MA40 have this hard
anodizing coating (that reduces braking in the wet untill it wears
off the side of the rims) and the coated rims are more expensive.
I don't think I'd put up with this defect again - does it really happen
with the O4CD rims in general? The Arya rims were real bad, especially
the front rim, unfortunately they were super rugged and lasted for
a long time, through many winters as a set of winter wheels.
Since this is really a note about headests, I'll put in a plug for
the Mavic roller bearing headset (for road bikes.) It's a super
smooth and rugged design with no sign of notching after over a year
of use in all kinds of weather (well over 10K miles.)
- Jim
|