Conference noted::bicycle

    It may be better to look at a sealed mechanism where you won't need
    to use the threads.  I believe the Phil Wood system will work.
    
    steve

    Ah, the light at the end of the tunnel - I can see it now.
    
    ref: .1  Now that you mention it, I've actually seen such things
    but can't think of any suppliers/sources.  Other than Nashbar and
    Performance, any ideas?
    
    Bob

    I think a Phil Wood BB would still have hte problem.  Most dealers
    will order one for you.  You must specify what cranks you are using
    since there are different tapers and they can easily order the wrong
    one for you and then you stuck in a loop while they exchange it.
    
    As for dealers that might have one in stock:  I would call the
    Bicycle Exchange in Cambridge or Wheel works in Belmont.
    
    ed

    Fat City uses a thread-less BB as well. I dont know as if they'll
    sell just a bottom bracket to ya, but it may be worth a try.
    
    Fat City is in Somerville, Mass  [dont remember the number].
    
    Robb

Phil Wood bottom brackets aren't threadless. They use the same threads 
as any other BB, but don't have the flange on the end of the fixed cup 
and the ring on the adjustable cup like "standard" BB's.
                                                         ken

    My Fisher MTN bike has a threadless BB.  I am sure that this is
    possible.  My recommendation is to call a few good mountain bike
    dealers who sell Fisher or Fat Chance. If you use their BB, remember
    they are made for a triple chain ring.
    
    The only other solution that I know is to have it Helicoiled (sp),
    where a new thread liner is put in.  This probably won't be easy
    nor cheap.                            
    
    steve
    
    
    

    The Bicycle Exchange in Cambridge does have Phil Wood's in stock
    in a variety of tapers to accommodate the most popular cranks. 
    But, as stated in .5, they are not threadless.
    
    The Bicycle Exchange also had an Edco BB in stock that is threadless.
    It uses sealed bearings and "cups" that are eliptically shaped on
    the mating surfaces.  The idea is that in one position, the outside of 
    the cups are aligned with the surface of the main cylinder and the
    whole thing slides into the BB shell.  Then, you use a wrench an turn
    the cups a quarter to half rotation to get an "expansion" of what
    looked like less than 1 mm to lock everything in place.  Mechanically, 
    this is a good solution but is a bit steep at $85.00.  Oh yes, there
    is no lip of any kind on either cup and no equivalent to a lockring,
    so it might look a little strange to have the faces of the BB shell
    exposed.
    
    This whole mess started because CycleArt in CA told me they could
    retap from French to English.  Turns out that the French is larger
    in diameter, not smaller.  The guy in the parts department at Bicycle
    Exchange said you can retap English to French or either of these
    to Italian which is the largest.  Anyway, I didn't look for a copy
    of Sullivan's to verify all this in advance and was left with English
    threads and real loose fitting cups.

    Knowing that the Edco is available, for a price, I decided to have
    a go at Locktite's chemical solution to threading problems.  One
    package which is good for "one to three applications" cost less
    than $5.00.  I followed the directions to the letter and now have
    a snug fitting adjustable cup, no squeaky noises, and much less
    tilting of the chainrings.  Tonight I'll do the other side and
    that should be that.   This stuff is supposed to cure to about
    80% of the strength of the original metal.  Excessive torque seems
    to be the biggest concern/warning expressed in the instructions. 
    Fortunately, that should not be a problem in this case.  Other
    forces will be high, however, so I'll just have to wait and see
    how it holds up.  
    
    Bob

    If indeed Italian is larger then could you retap for italian and
    just get new bearing cups and adjuster?  Maybe the shop that screwed
    it up to begin with should do the retap and buy you the new cups.
    This may be the soundest solution.

    Ref:  .8   Yes, I would really like the shop that messed things
    up to now fix the problem.  But, I don't want to have to pack up
    the frame and ship it off again.  
    
    Anyway, the Locktite method I mentioned previously seems to be holding 
    up after a good 25-miler last night.  So far, so good...
    
    Bob

    
    	I used Loctite on a bottom bracket one time.  I wanted to take
    the triple crankset off the ATB and put it on the road bike.  I
    don't remember exactly which pieces wouldn't match up, but it went
    something like having to use the road bike's cups because they were
    French thread with the ATB spindle, but since the races are closer
    together in an English BB the cups (French, still with me ?) went
    in too far to get a lock ring on.  Since this was the night before
    the Mt. W hillclimb I decided to just goop it up with loctite and
    have a readymade excuse for DNF'ing in case I needed it.  It worked
    well, I think I left it that way for well over a month.  Locktite
    comes in several different grades, identified by colour, beware
    the one that claims to be for "permanent" thread locking, it means
    *PERMANENT* !
    
    	Reg